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Zeb Camper

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Everything posted by Zeb Camper

  1. Hi all! I was given a bayonet by my boss's parents. I believe its british. 1888 I think. Doesn't look like a 1903. What do you think? And how much do you think it's worth? I've got a 1915 or 18 (last digit is shallow) Lee Enfield, but unfortunately it's been sporterized a long time ago. Unfortunately my grandfather knew a guy who sporterized old guns. I'd love to have it looking the way it used to. I doubt this bayonet would fit it though. Sorry the room is so cluttered I've got more hobbies than living space.
  2. Welding temp is dictated by the material with the highest carbon content. Wrought to wrought needs to be really hot, but high carbon to wrought does not (I made a ryme ) . For this I just let the flux tell me if it has reached temp. It [20 mule team borax] starts bubbling around welding temp for high carbon, and it really dances around when it's hot enough to weld mild steel or wrought. It should produce vapor, and appear about a shade away from white. Butter yellow is what I see. I get wrought to wrought pretty much white. Dont stare into the forge. Bad for the eyes.
  3. I'm sure you can pull this off, but you can also hard solder right in your propane forge. I've used super glue to hold hard solder and parts in place long enough to melt it. But this looks like you could wrap thin copper around and just do one solder joint. I make habakis ether by holding them shut with tongs, or iron wire. You can slide a stick of hard solder inside, and just get it to melt Lookin good!
  4. I know this is Faye's thread, so I wont dwell any more on it. As for why I chose to take this path of "reverence" I suppose isnt so relevant. She asked for information to which I gave my best answers. I even said "its mind over matter" said "do whatever you want". Somehow I feel like I'm percieved as having something I dont. I've got nothing but love to give, or that's what I've always tried to do. I dont mean to impose.
  5. Looks fine to me! Not that my opinion matters much. Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
  6. It helps to know what you're doing before you take too many creative liberties though! Maybe once I figure it out!
  7. Look at this one. Notice the ruler. So, you have some wiggle room on what's accurate in this blade range. I would say either of your designs fit.
  8. The shorter the seax, the less lengthy the point side of the break seems to be. But, I totally agree with Joshua, do whatever you want! I just hand out free information and opinions (especially on this sub-forum). But, there's no right or wrong; just what suits you best. I had to come back and add that the broken back is all I'm focusing on with what I'm telling you. There are other topologies (like the jessenwang langsax Joshua mentioned) with ornate fittings and ornamentation, but for the broken back with it's short hidden tang; I just dont think they were going too crazy with t
  9. You know, I actually think you'll want gravel... I think its standard procedure to pour on top of tamped gravel isnt it? I would look into that. Edit: I stand corrected. Looks like that's something only some people do.... Good luck!
  10. I love copper. If you're also using a copper pin, it will tie in well enough I think. Just make sure the knife looks balanced. You might grind some out of your guard to make the spacer look at home. Looking good!
  11. I just hopped back on Facebook and saw the conversation has evolved. I dont want to speak for anyone, but that manuscript painting came up and sure enough it looks like stacked handles!
  12. I asked Emilliano last night on Facebook about those bolsters in a conversation started by someone else. I know he's a very knowledgeable dude. He said he didnt know of any evidence that these bolsters existed. However, its somehow become the norm among makers to use organic bolsters like that. I even did it once. So, nobody's gonna beat you up for it. The pine resin they used back then (I'm told) was more than capable of holding a 1/2-3/4" bolster to a piece of wood. And IIRC, there may have been a manuscript depicting a broken back seax with a bolster.... I'd have too do some digging.
  13. No kidding! Look at that thing! Gonna be hard to part with if you're selling it. Do you plan on a fairly substantial champher on the guard? I think it would add presence or,,, mass? Volume? What am I trying to say?
  14. My understanding is that the staffardshire hoard one was a narrow seax from 7th ish century. There is no doubt later blades must have had similar fittings. We have the cumwitton (hope I spelled it right) seax with wire inlay, but I dont think it is a broken back (maybe it was) the hunting kinfe of charlemagne (Aachen seax) was a broken back, and had a silver ferrule or butt cap on the back of a long horn handle. I think a golden bolster piece (from either the staffardshire hoard or sutton hoo) decorated with gripping beasts may have also been mounted to a seax (though it was separated from its
  15. I'm no expert, but is that a spacer on the seax? The blade shape looks great!
  16. That bunch of work at the end is just masterfully done! I really like that chefs knife and the sax!
  17. Looking good man! Hope that wrought works out. That one flat piece was left out of the stack from a past project, I labeled it wrought, so I hope it really is!
  18. I bought a cheap "starcaster" strat on Monday for my nephew (whose shown interest in guitar) to learn on. Cost me $50 and it was in pretty rough condition, so I gave him the choice "we can just get it going, or we can fix it up a little". So, he wanted to get the dents out, I decided it needed a new tremello, and he's wanting to paint it 50's fender sonic blue himself (a very mature color choice for a 12 year old). So I just got it all sanded down for him, and repaired a crack by cutting down it with a saw blade and filling it with epoxy (taped off the bottom and side).. Should be
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