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Zeb Camper

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Everything posted by Zeb Camper

  1. I suspect since the ends of the wool aren't butting together, you may run into problems keeping the wool on the walls. You need that wool tight against the walls. If you cant get the ends flush, I would at least want that part on the floor of the forge.
  2. Pretty elegant carving, and overall shape!
  3. Though I said I would wait until HT, I think it will make it out alive. So, this is about a 24" bladed broadsax of the Norwegian flavor with a spine made of high P wrought, 2 twisted rods of 15n20, and 1080, and a cutting edge of 1080. The colag is in as simple of terms as I could put it, because I sent it to someone who asked me what I do, (the outcome of that; I was supposed to do a demo in May) so I avoided the word "welding" as much as I could. ...And here it is with an 80 grit rough sand. Now I need to track down copious amounts of canola oil in the middle of a be
  4. Congrats, man! May it serve you well. You might find a tool rest to be a handy attachment. I haven't quite gotten the hang of freehand grinding on a vertical platen just yet. It's funny, I gave away my 2x42, and find myself using files more often with the 2x72.
  5. 20mm, dang! In case they bring back teranasours? I feel for you guys who depend on blade sales. I work alone for the most part, and luckily people need handrails for various reasons. Selling a home, building new, commercial stuff, knee surgerys, etc. So, for now I've got a job, and income, but how long we can last I'm not sure. I'm hoping this is called off, or we get a fix pretty soon. We cant just shut off. Breaks in the chain will seize this whole machine. Interesting for sure! Ominous too.
  6. That is one heck of a hoard! Who's posession is it in? Someone else was asking about Jake a month or two ago....
  7. Remember to cut your wool oversized by several inches as far as circumference. Bigger than you think it ought to be. To get it in there, roll it into a tight burrito, stick it in and let go. Message it into place and make the ends but up to each other. I would buy the burner, or get the specs before cutting holes for it. I would make the hole in the back an option. Maybe close it off with bricks, or a hatch if you can manage it. Remember, ventury burners dont like back pressure. My welding forge has 2 holes in it and I can weld big enough billet to make 2 swords. Diff
  8. I'd take it out 100 yards or so and shoot a hole in it, but I realize that might not be an option for you. Like Adam said, It is inert gas though, and if you're sure its empty, you should be able to cut right into it.
  9. What a beast!... And the seax also looks ferocious! I feel like this must've had a wooden core scabbard.
  10. I meant if he were to have the right shape. If he forges it to the right shape now, he will have some deformity in the pattern. Even with a dagger he looks pretty broad. And, if he draws it out, his stars will become loose. It still might look really cool though.
  11. Sanded the other side today. So far I've used 9 sheets of 80 grit paper and fully expect to use the 10th. I'll need to order more. The weight: 1lb 9.5 oz And the sax is weighing in about 1oz lighter, but needs more sanding. It might get it's own thread if it survives. I always get really nervous come HT time. And I think I normalized already, but I might have to do it over just to be safe.
  12. Could put an edge bar around it could make a spear. Pretty cool one too if you did a long fish mouth weld.
  13. Could be black cherry I suppose....the wood seems a little on the light side... I'm not the best at tree ID. Could be something else I suppose. It also looks much more like oak in these photos. Are the grains open? How's it smell? Is it really heavy?
  14. The VFD on mine has me spoiled rotten for sure.
  15. Doesn't look like oak to me. Looks kind of like cherry.... The grains look closed, and the bark looks different... Pretty cool!
  16. A better shot of the p-weld sitting near perfectly within the fuller And 4 1/2 hours of sanding later and I still have another side to go. This thing was just over a pound when I weighed it last IIRC. I'll be curious to get it back on a scale. 100% accurate or not, it should be sharp and fast! If it should survive HT.
  17. How wide can you make the face? I like a broad face. 1 3/4, or so. I'd want 2.5lb or a touch heavier also. I'm liking the look of type 1, but 3 may be more my speed IDK. Maybe a 500° or so for me, I like a pretty anvil. Or whatever you can add to a batch. Thanks man!
  18. Not really wrought, but shear steel. So, carburized wrought.
  19. Did you grind your thumb? Ouch! Yes, looks to be shear steel. Fairly high carbon too. I would guess .75% +,- Take a piece of 1075 (.75%) and compare the length of the sparks and the amount of bursts at the end. The shorter and more bursts, the more carbon. Then do the same with mild steel (.18%). You can see the difference with 1095, 1080, 1075, 1060, 1045, whatever you have. This will give you a rough idea. You could also try hardening a piece. I would save this for something special! Its probably 150 years old or more. Edit: I've now read the post..
  20. And I thought I might add, since we're on the topic and you may or may not have something similar: I do all my small fullers like that with a handheld black&decker 3x21" belt sander with lowes ceramic belts and it works phenomenally! I have way more control with that. I just draw lines, and pick up the guard shrouding the small wheel, and apply pressure down and towards me. I haven't finished any of the blades I did that to, but I've done a number of em'.
  21. Have to try it to tell I guess. I'll probably just cut a 10" length of 2x4, rip it down to a 2x2.5 (1 1/2×2) or so and grind one of the narrow faces to the same radius as my contact wheel for my sword sanding extravaganza this weekend. That way I can just wrap the paper around the block and hold it in place with the friction of my grip as I run it to and fro. Probably will wear gloves though! I rubbed all the skin off part of my hand like that while using a flat block once. You might be better of with a 1×_ or something narrow like that. Just something straight that'll fit in ther
  22. Looking pretty good, man! I would take your time as much as you can before heat treatment to be sure you have the bulk of the work done. It's very hard to get the edges of a blade that long perfect without any wiggles. You might try a sanding block to straighten that fuller out.
  23. Awe inspiring! Very well done! Congrats!
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