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Zebulon Camper

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About Zebulon Camper

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  1. You sir, know your stuff. That amount of knowlage you just gave on this blade type may have taken a guy like myself a lifetime to figure out on his own. I can only hope that someday I might be half as good as you . Please keep sharing your wisdom!
  2. Thanks Jeroen !
  3. Interestingly enough, I got one successful casting of a smaller amount before i added that plus the rest of my copper into the second cast-tastraphe. I'll look for a picture if I took one. But would the propane forge be suitable if it's all you had? Also should I expect my copper to be ruined now? I read of a company that uses iron as an alloy in copper to refine the grain structure of copper alloys. Could this copper be used in adition with something like nickel for a usable billet? The interweb isn't giving me much info, but I'm curiouse now.
  4. You can see where this was stuck on the side wall. The bottom brick Is broken now. I tried chipping it. But, luckally chile sells that brick as a "sacraficial" piece to save the real forge floor when forge welding. It's a $45 fix.
  5. Hi Jerrod and Jerroen, thanks for the information. I am totally new to the MELTING game. I had a bunch of scrap copper, so I figured I might as well give it a try. I spent the rest of the day working on my truck to let the forge cool. luckaly I think most of it formed a long beed in a crack, I was able to get that beed out. I hope none of it seeped further down. I will head to my shop later to see what the rest of the damage is if there is any. Thanks again for the Info, will definatly buy a crucible, and use my harder to ruin coal forge!
  6. Decided I would weld up a steel cup and melt some copper down in my really nice forge. I used my stick welder with some 6011 electrodes. Didn't chip the slag between passes, must've been a pin hole, melted into the forge. Anyone got any Idea as to how I should remove the copper? It seems pretty stuck. I'll probably just have to buy new wool, and ceramic.
  7. Just to prove my level of absent mindedness, I even got my example out wrong lol! 1 1/2"÷2= 3/4" NOT 5/8" .
  8. Wow! I wish my first sword looked that good ! My first sword I hid away so no one would ever know I created that peice of scrap .
  9. Looking pretty good Chris ! I like the hamons. Seems like a good rule of thumb for handles is the thickness should be about half of the width. Usually allways looks proportionate. You can use the same principal for palm swells. For example, If it swells to 1 1/2" wide, It should then swell to 5/8" thick. Sorry for the standard example, I just don't have the brain capacity to use metric.
  10. Met the customer today to discuss it. We made some changes. I'm pretty sure this is what we're after.
  11. I ruined my first habaki yesterday. I don't wanna talk about it . Wouldn't you know I didn't have anymore copper. While that was unfortunate, It gives me time to design the parts. The concept is trying to make it look ancient. Simple, but elegant.
  12. The blade is almost done. The hamon is trying to hide in this overcast. Me and the future owner agreed it should look ancient so I weathered it as best I could. i still have to straighten a slight bend from HT. The only problem is it won't fit in the oven for a 325°F temper.
  13. Hey Jonas, I don't see any gains from keeping secerets anymore. If google does not know something, It's a good chance man kind doesn't know. I simply take a cheap brand of refeactory caulk and blast a fat bead of it on the spine of the sword and spread it on the back 1/3rd of the blade like peanut butter. Then i squirt some on a piece of wood beside me and i have a bucket of water handy. I get a little on my finger, dunk the finger with the clay in the bucket and dab a very thin ahsi layer along the blade edge. My finger marks leave some thick spots for activity in the hamon. Flip sword over, clamp it in a vice, do the other side. I used to take a long time to carefully clay the blade, but the random patter probably looks better anyways.
  14. Got a shot of the hamon, only 320 grit in. It's gonna be good!
  15. Truly amazing work. that T top I can assume had to be forged in. How did you grind the blade? Perhaps you ground it , then only heated the spine so you could sort of peen it into a T?