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R. Thiele

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About R. Thiele

  • Birthday 08/29/1977

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greer, SC
  • Interests
    Family, Good Beer, Good Friends, and of course Bladesmithing!

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163 profile views
  1. full tang handles

    Hole in handle and peening the end.
  2. full tang handles

    Anyone have any good tips on fitting a handle onto a full tang? I am thinking I need a longer drop bit to make a guide, then burn the handle on? Last night i did a short hole, being i don't have a extra long bit, then burnt the handle on. I must say, it's not fun. Especially hickory.
  3. first piece

    How do you manage to make micarta??
  4. first piece

    So, first complete blade done! Learned some good lessons along the way. 1. Be patient! 2. With everyone's help, I learned about decalesense, which made it possible for that old file become a knife. 3. Give myself a more finished bevel prior to heat treat! 4. Hand sharpening real hardened steel, not your over the counter kitchen knife, is a bitch! Reference lesson 3! 5. And finally, do not put flame to your handle, even though the finished product looks cool....may have burned out a little epoxy. Now, I have one more question...how the heck are you supposed to profile and sand your scales and still be able to peen....cuz, I have the pins in, but they aren't peened! Still feels solid. Will see later. Thanks for your help everyone, I have a new addiction.
  5. first piece

    I wasn't much thicker than that....
  6. first piece

    Ok, so this is the blade I hammered out last night out of an old file. I tested it first by watching the decalesence...thrn went for. it it's hard, and beveled. It takes forever to hand work a bevel on hardened steel with whetstones....i want a belt grinder now....
  7. first piece

    I was able to establish that last night. My issue was the thick layer of black hard scale on the blade. Before it would fall of for the most part. This was more like a hard black scab on the blade. I was able to get it off, but a file wouldn't hardly touch it. Not sure if that is what I should be expecting or if I need to keep tweaking. I had blue flame , so should it be orange?
  8. first piece

    Ok, so I adjusted my burner, and I think I am close. I was able to hammer out a blade last night, normalize, and successfully harden. I currently on temper number 2... Now the only reason I say "close", is that I had some BRUTAL scale build up on the blade...i didn't have a tom in forging , very little in comparison to before. The problem is that I had a thick layer that good 60 grit on my angle grinder to take it off. My question would be, do I need just a little bit more o2 in my fire? I feel as though I compacted what should fall of in forging. does that make sense?
  9. first piece

    I have read some tips regarding the pipe, and either wood or charcoal to burn away oxygen. See, I had the whole shadow backwards...i didn't realize that it was the carbon moving, and had been heating well beyond that....silly silly. I am going to fiddle with my tune first, cause I didn't have flames pouring out, and I will source myself a pipe!
  10. first piece

    Right now I have plenty of recycled steel..and am learning what not to do;) The thing that almost puts me in panic mode is the process of hardening 1095. I have been reading extensive threads on the process, and my mind is about to blow. I think my first steels I buy will be 1084. Seems to be a bit more forgiving...
  11. first piece

    Do any of you have any reccomendations of books dedicated to the science of heat treating??
  12. first piece

    What are you referring to when you say shallow hardening steel?
  13. first piece

    I know this shadow you speak of. I saw it in the blades, and I know I quenched after I had virtually none. On the last blade I had the slightest shadow up near the spine, but the majority was quite yellow-orange. should all metal be taken to that point for the quench? Also, by the time I get to the quench, my edge bevel is thinner than I mean it to be, a little under 1/16". I didn't hammer them in that thin, so I am thinking that I may have cooked it in my normalization process. After my first two cycles, I had a nice rust color patina on the blade, but my final cycle didn't. Would that be a sign that I decarborized the metal??
  14. first piece

    I have a chili forge, 2 burner. I really do think I am burning out the carbon.
  15. first piece

    Thanks for the advise guys. I think I know a part of my flaws....i went and referenced a book i have, and checked the color chart...i have a feeling i am forging at too high of heat, and losing too much carbon perhaps. It's just a hypothesis at this point, but I did a lot of hammering at bright orange heat. I could be wrong, but I had an awful lot of scale , and it seemed as though my blade would loose mass from start to finish. On top of that, my bevel I hammered I. Would get thinner and thinner, even without my profiling it further. So I have a plan, on top of buying steel i know, I am going to forge at lower temps. the book I have mentions Aus forging, so I may give that a shot.
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