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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Zach Wade

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  1. 1st Knife WIP Balance Question

    Sidenote and or back to the original topic, the balance did shift back but not that far. It sits about an 1/8th inch behind the first pin. Right about where the tip of my index finger sits. So not too far off from where I wanted it
  2. 1st Knife WIP Balance Question

    Done. Has some issues and i had to modify the design based on them but its comfortable in hand and very sharp so I call it a success.
  3. Working with Prehardened Steel

    I got excited shut the forge off, then scraped some of the scale off and completely forgot about this. Then moved onto the beer and steak portion of the evening lol. Next time, thanks guys. -Z
  4. 1st Knife WIP Balance Question

    Its far from perfect and it's far from finished but I just heat treated and I am happy with it
  5. Working with Prehardened Steel

    I am sure I can find vermiculite at Wal-Mart and repurpose the stock pot for heat treatment to be used for annealing, should prolly clean the canola oil out of it first though.Thanks for the quick response. If 1 in 5 come out straight I will be fine. However it is .078 so its rather thin.
  6. So I have a nigh unlimited source of free 15n20, however it is already hardened from it's previous life as a sawblade. As many of you know it is rather difficult to cut and grind in this state. Especially without ruining the HT. I am doing HT on my first knife Sunday weather permitting and would like to prep a few rectangles of 15n20 for machining while I am at it since my forge time is apparently rather limited, it has rained here almost every weekend since winter and my setup is an outside mobile rig. So my question is to make it more machinable should 3 normalisations be sufficient or should I do an anneal? Keeping in mind that I don't have a way to anneal it right now... Thanks -Z
  7. 1st Knife WIP Balance Question

    4.5 is about right, it ends up a hair under that in usable space. Not gonna peen it if it isn't necessary and from what I hear with modern epoxies it isn't. Just gonna make the knife and worry about balance on a later one. Right now I am looking at finishing it about 3 weeks from now. I will make a fresh post when i do. Gotta drill it at work this week and wait for a nice day on the weekend to do profile work and heat treatment. Then however long polishing takes, but I should be able to do that sort of thing throughout the week. I work nightshift and I think my neighbors would appreciate me grinding in the middle of the night about as much as I appreciate them mowing lawns and working on their cars with power tools in the morning
  8. 1st Knife WIP Balance Question

    Thanks everyone. I think the best advice here is don't worry about it haha. Jon, approaching giant proportions is the perfect term for what i am lol. Also your first knives look good, saw them in the forum a while back. And yeah correction they are 3/16 brass pins that I have, 3/8 would be a whole lot of brass. Still think I should go lower? Jake, I might cut a groove into the tang like Aiden said, I could just carve that into the scale by hand, the tons of Swiss cheese holes sounds like it will be difficult to carve in the scales and even more difficult to line up. Almost certainly beyond my woodworking abilities right now. Aiden, think they will chip in hickory? Because that is a good point and probably another reason to use hickory
  9. So I am new here, been trolling this forum for the past 2 months or so. Finally got all the stuff to make my first knife. The knife shaped object is in 1/8" 1084 from Aldo, I started it earlier today and ran out of sunlight. Blade is 4.5 in and handle is 5( in theory, it's close in reality). I am going to use 3/8 in brass pegs and hickory scales. I could switch to curly maple to lighten it up a bit, but i kinda don't want to Hickory is my favorite wood overall, but walnut and curly are prettier. BTW I work in a sawmill so I already got fancy wood and enough 15n20 to make a .078 knife for every day of the year, and the cable, so much cable! So here is the problem the balance is too close to where I want it, when I add scales and set the bevels I know the balance is going to shift toward the end of the handle. Currently the balance point lies where the pencil is (hopefully I'm not the only one who thought soapstone, then pencil would work for laying out the knife(both kept wearing off), ended up borrowing a sharpie from my neighbor who was wondering wtf I was doing with a bench grinder in my driveway(I have sharpies I just don't know where any are at the moment)). I ended up improvising a bit because it was starting to feel a little skinny and short for me. I plan on removing a little bit more from the top rear edge of the handle to make it closer to the original design and improve balance and remove a hair from the bottom of the edge to make it a little rounder. As well as increasing the width of the spine to make it a little beefier towards the tip. Anyone got any other ideas for how to shift balance toward the tip? General comments, criticisms, and tips are more than welcome as I only have half an idea what I'm doing. Thanks -Z
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