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Zach Wade

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  1. Zach Wade

    Help Identifying Stump

    A little easier to see the color after I washed out the pic
  2. Zach Wade

    Help Identifying Stump

    http://www.wood-database.com Best online resource I've found. Taking a look at the magnified end grain may be most useful
  3. Zach Wade

    Help Identifying Stump

    Snagged this for ya Friday. If you look close it has the green mineral streak and some of the odd shaped heartwood that has me convinced it's hard maple. Not the best example but it was the closest example I could find in the scrap pile
  4. Zach Wade

    Help Identifying Stump

    I would say to stabilize it but I have yet to work with Burl wood or perform stabilization. All the prettiness can cause weird stresses and unexpected weak spots when there is a change in humidity and or drying. Question for you. Is the end grain on the long side? That's how it appears in the pictures but maybe I'm looking at it wrong. If that's the case definitely stabilize it. That's the side that splits most easily. Think about it this way, when you are cutting firewood which side do you hit with a maul?
  5. Zach Wade

    Help Identifying Stump

    There is what i am talking about when I say orange, if I'd have seen this yesterday I'd have got you a picture of hard maple with mineral streak for your comparison but we're out now. That piece is dried but it hasn't been out in the weather, don't know if that helps at all.
  6. Zach Wade

    Help Identifying Stump

    I'd bet its hard maple, you don't get that particular mineral streak or heartwood in soft maple or poplar take a close look at the bark. If you see a thin orange strip in the underlayers it's definitely hard maple. In soft maple it will be more reddish. Although it may be too dried out to use that. I usually only see it when it's still "green"
  7. Zach Wade

    Hamons before and after quench

    Heating the lemon juice or vinegar makes it more effective
  8. Zach Wade

    Hamons before and after quench

    Alternating lemon juice and vinegar etches is common, however either one will work. Neutralize with baking soda or soapy water.
  9. Zach Wade

    Hamons before and after quench

    Ok, sorry to revive this thread, but has anyone else ever encountered the best part of the hamon wiping away when you clean it after etch and polish? I'm probably gonna be finishing up the handle this weekend and I remembered this and was wondering if there was a way to make it stay. Before I got everything finalized. Also, the spot from not getting it hot enough, is that basically a clayless hamon?
  10. Zach Wade

    Hamons before and after quench

    Mwahaha! Light rubbing of pre-broken mothers over hamon then a wash of 1500 in water, it only stays up to the boundary. Likely because of whatever hydrophobic compound is in mothers. I let it dry then wiped off towards the edge. Rinsed and repeated. Time for a handle. Anyone else try this before?
  11. Zach Wade

    A bit of advice about gut hooks

    What about a dremel with a grinding bit to clean it up and bore out the groove? I remember reading here someone had mentioned using a chainsaw file to sharpen the edge on the thing. It's a pretty common tool that would make it easy for the customer to sharpen it eventually
  12. Zach Wade

    A bit of advice about gut hooks

    Have you considered making a knife and a gut hook? Someone I know wants me to make a gut hook knife but I can't see doing that to a knife. That and a double sheath to hold them is the best solution that i came up with, he didn't seem opposed to the idea. Not that I am taking orders atm, still working on basic skills development
  13. Zach Wade

    Hamons before and after quench

    Already got the 1075. You're probably right, might just be time to call it what it is, a learning experience. It's also razor sharp so it's not a bad blade either.
  14. Zach Wade

    Hamons before and after quench

    Ok thanks, I thought it might be something in heat treat, cause it's coming right off the tang. Maybe I'll get some FeCl and try a stronger etch too. Ain't gonna help with that spot but might help the hamon
  15. Zach Wade

    Hamons before and after quench

    It's got a hamon now, does anyone know what that weird spot is by the tang? It wouldn't take an etch at all, at first I thought it might of been a fingerprint or something, but I degreased with acetone and put gloves on. Still wouldn't take an etch. Might do more work to it, there's more activity there, I caught glimses of it when I was sharpening, some of the mud accidentally got loaded into a band aid and it brought more out than I can get the way I'm trying to do it but that was pretty low grit, maybe try a lower grit loose abrasive or try a higher grit base? 2000 grit base, alternating lemon juice and apple cider vinegar, neutralized in soapy water, and taking off oxides with 1500 grit silicon carbide in water on a leather pad attached to a chopstick below the hamon, and mothers mag and alum polish above with a q tip. Lost count of etching cycles but about a dozen maybe a little more
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