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Joël Mercier

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Joël Mercier last won the day on August 18

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About Joël Mercier

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    Male
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    Québec, Canada
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    Family, smithy, whisky!

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  1. No doubt about it. I've also got some knives(Sanelli) in X50 and they are thick and soft. I believe the German ones are even thicker at edge.
  2. What you say makes sense. Though, according to this database, the C an Cr can vary. The amount of V leads to think it's there for grain refinement purposes and Mo isn't a very strong carbide former. But maybe all those things combined do prevent some carbon to be used for hardening.
  3. For max hardness, you'll need to use the upper temp range, but this will lead to increased retained austenite, so cryo is recommended. But I don't see why you couldn't go higher than 56hrc, this steel is similar to AEB-L and the later is commonly used at 60-61. Manufacturers usually temper uselessly soft for warranty concerns.
  4. You can work with that. Keep grinding only near the edge to convex some more until 0.005" and I believe it's going to be sturdy enough. And the heavy bolster is a good idea.
  5. I'll just add, if I may, that spine thickness is just one parameter. A 1/16" spine can be ok or bad depending on the grind. There are very thin Japanese knives BUT they use partial flat grinds. The idea is to not have a too acute primary bevel angle at edge or your edge will be and feel too flexible. There are two ways to make an edge stiffer/sturdier. You either leave the edge thicker, or grind a more obtuse primary bevel. A thicker edge will have less cutting power. A third way could be to use a partial convex grind, but the principle remains the same. It's easier to explain with drawings
  6. I would start by saying that I like the overall shape of the blade, with the exception of the tang that's a little narrow, but that's just my OCD. Now, whether it can be salvaged into a useable tool or not will depend on the current edge thickness and the current grind geometry. But salvageable or not, this is going to be a very light weight chef, with possibly not a great feel.
  7. I asked myself the same question a while back. I found that I just love making stuff and if I stop, I'll really miss it after a while. Hell, during lockdown when I couldn't make knives, I made loudspeakers and an amplifier . Dopamine is nice, but in the end, posting your stuff often leads to other sales and that matters a lot more than a like on FB. And, is it me or the serious buyers are rarely those who send likes or comments? They just send a PM Anyways, as I told you earlier, this is great news and I'm happy your health is getting better!
  8. Good evening folks! Yet another 8" ktip in 26c3. Tempered a little harder this time at 64hrc. Weighting in at 8oz with point of balance straight at heel. I liked the look of the blued steel/copper/dark wood I used on the oyster knoife so I used that combo again on this one . I played maybe a bit too much with facets, but it ended up quite comfortable despite the sharp looking edges.
  9. Superb pattern in both the steel and wood!
  10. If you read the article, it's exactly the opposite. They achieved high toughness at high hardness. They got charpi toughness lab tests done on the steel and it's pretty darn impressive how tough the steel is at 65 hrc. They got more thorough tests coming with the large ESR batch they ordered, with more details on HT and more toughness/hardness samples done. I say let's wait for those before jumping to conclusions, but I am pretty happy new steels are finally being developed specifically for knives. We've largely been using steels intended for other purposes in the last century, just saying...
  11. This is probably the most important thing. At this stage (or any stage in my case), it should all be about having fun. If it stresses you, you should change your approach. Fun is what will drive you to be creative and move forward. Expect to screw up on a regular basis(we all do), it's part of the learning. Another thing that tends to be hard nowadays is TAKE YOUR TIME. Don't chase instant gratification. It's perfectly okay to take 6 weeks or 6 months to complete your work, it's no speed contest. You'll always regret rushing certain parts of your work... Welcome to the madness
  12. This is excessively vague. Pinpoint what you want to know and you might get some answers. You can also search in the forum. There's a very good chance everything has already been answered countless times. I don't want to sound mean. Just help us help you...
  13. This is an interesting marketing trick. I'm going to try this out with my last chef which is around 64hrc. Not much use other than that when you have an actual hardness tester
  14. It depends on who supplied the steel. It comes in various annealed states. If yours comes in coarse sphero, you should normalize. https://knifesteelnerds.com/2022/06/23/how-to-heat-treat-80crv2/
  15. Everything made by 3M is top notch imo. I like their belts and their wet/dry. They cut longer and leave fewer deep scratches.
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