Jump to content

Joël Mercier

  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Joël Mercier last won the day on April 12

Joël Mercier had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

292 Excellent

1 Follower

About Joël Mercier

  • Rank
    Colonel Mustard
  • Birthday 04/07/1983

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Québec, Canada
  • Interests
    Family, smithy, whisky!

Recent Profile Visitors

2,084 profile views
  1. They're both fantastic blade steels that are easy to forge but I'd go for 80CrV2 because it is more forgiving. It can be austenized between 1475 and 1575 without noticeable change in grain size (I've tested it). It's pearlite nose is also longer so you got more time to make the blade full hard during the quench.
  2. Ive not seen Vern for a while so I'll try to answer the question in his stead. 1080 and 1084 are basically the same, though I believe Aldo's 1084 steel may be of better purity than the average 1080. In 80CrV2, 80 stands for 0.8%carbon(similar to 1080), Cr for Chromium added(a small amount to improve toughness) and V2 for around 0.2% Vanadium. So this steel has some add-ons over 1084 that are beneficial to toughness and grain refinement(both are interlinked to an extent). I'm sure Jerrod will chime in if I'm full of shiz
  3. If you can get optimal and repeatable results with 1095, I believe you already skipped the beginner phase of heat treatments. That steel is persnickety, especially the one from admiral steel. I think Cashen has a procedure for this specific steel from that specific supplier to get the carbon at the right place prior to quenching. I don't know the details but I know it's got a very poor structure as sold.
  4. Looking good. I'd just make the tang and shoulders a bit wider.
  5. Most of domestic violence and murders are done with bare hands. If we use their logic, It certainly is the hands fault and not the owner of the hands... Darn hands, they're so dangerous and violent...
  6. That's some very constant and precise filing. Well done Brian!
  7. I love it John. The proportions seem just right and the handle looks comfy.
  8. I've read the instructions and couldn't find a way to.
  9. I powered the PID to play with the settings and found the max temp is 1000°c. Looks like I won't be doing any stainless with this one... Not that I really care though... Edit: the idea just popped, I'll switch PIDs with the one in my tempering oven which is 1300°c max. "Problem" solved
  10. Taking the load off the PID terminals sound like a good idea. Thanks! I'll fix that I had bought high temp wire a while back when I built the tempering oven so I figured I'd use it for the SSR control. That's why it's all white...
  11. *Disclaimer* if you don't have knowledge in AC/DC and/or don't feel comfortable wiring your kiln, just ask a professional electrician! I decided to post a WIP of my 100$ kiln project. I paid 35$ for the furnace which had a burnt element and no real temperature control. I bought a cheap PID and SSR combo(the same I use in my tempering oven) and also 16 gauge NiChrome wire from Amazon. The element should arrive in July. I will probably try and repair the old one to test the setup until then.
  12. I just found a pic of my toaster oven setup. I simply bypassed the original thermostat and ran a thermocouple through the back. I also put a firebrick inside to increase the thermal mass and stability. It cycles +-1°f!
  13. Sorry, it's an electronic temperature controller. I have one similar to this. https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controllers-Thermostat-ITC-106VH/dp/B01N6OCKV9 Of course, the supplied thermocouple is low temperature and not suitable for kiln purpose. You'll have to buy a high temp one with an oxydation resistant jacket.
  • Create New...