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Joël Mercier

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Joël Mercier last won the day on April 18

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About Joël Mercier

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    Colonel Mustard
  • Birthday 04/07/1983

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    Québec, Canada
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    Family, smithy, whisky!

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  1. Yes. How deep the decarb layer first depends if you properly removed the scale/decarb from forging, then how long and how high temp it was held for austenizing. I suggest you use anti-scale compound such as ATP-641 for austenizing.
  2. Just for the record, I use a triangle calculator. https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html Not that it's going to much useful if you don't already know what angle your want. Also, I learned that grinding too thin at edge is no good when you hack into dry dead tree knots. My bladesportish knife blade is like a cooked bacon now . I have been extremely hard on it though, because I wanted to know it's limits. I don't think hacking into 2x4 would ever have done such damage.
  3. Thanks for pointing that out. Though I can assure you it's entirely by chance .
  4. Thank you. For the wood grain, the credit isn't mine. I rarely do that, but I bought a pre cut stabilized block. Thanks Brian
  5. Thank you gentlemen Edit: ops, and lady.
  6. Hello there, I finally finished the oyster knoife. It was fun and I tried and learned some new stuff on the way. The blade is 80CrV2 tempered as soft as I could without TME. It's got flat grinds and convex "edges". The "tentacle" guard is cold blued mild steel with copper sucker inserts. The spacer is acid aged copper and handle is myrtle.
  7. My thought as well. It's an awful lot of money to be using decalescence. At this rate, an HT oven seems to have only advantages vs the induction forge, for heat treatment that is...
  8. That would imply forming a new coil for every blade, including some with a very long oval shape. It is also probably going to be tricky to keep the edge well centered. I've only worked with portable induction heaters so far, so my experience is limited... Anyways, going for eutectoid steel is a good idea. Just keep in mind some steels will need a normalisation if done by stock removal, to dissolve carbides. A quick heating to critical might not be enough...
  9. Just how can you heat only the edge with an induction forge? That is a genuine question.
  10. I used a type K for my forge. It was an OmegaCladXL from Omega. Resistance to scale was excellent. I now use a kiln and put a type S in. It's impervious to oxidation, but being made out of ceramic, it could break if not careful. Edit corrected a typo
  11. Some more work done. I think the cold blue was a good idea, it adds contrast.
  12. Yeah, I've had that joke plenty on FB . I'm waiting for Oxpho Blue to arrive by the mail to complete the stache.
  13. Some more work... Turns out an 1/16" drill bit is just the right size for 14gauge copper wire.
  14. After you've full flat ground, if there's still not enough flex, you can also progressively narrow the blade by grinding the spine profile until you get the desired flex. You got plenty of room for that in your design.
  15. The specs look good, but I have concerns on how you will install dies on such a design. There's also nothing but the cylinder to withstand lateral movement. It's just my 2cents observation...
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