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Joël Mercier

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Joël Mercier last won the day on May 8

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About Joël Mercier

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    Colonel Mustard
  • Birthday 04/07/1983

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    Male
  • Location
    Québec, Canada
  • Interests
    Family, smithy, whisky!

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  1. You could try directly at Uddeholm and explain your disaray and love for their steel. They are steel nerds too . I'm telling you this because I know at least one guy who did this and was successful. Good luck pal
  2. Jake pretty much nailed it. And I too agree that you've done pretty good with then steel you've used. On a side note, I have been on a French bladesmith FB group for a while and they've mostly been using eurotechni's XC100 and some C130 for hamons. So if hamons are your itch, these may be worth a try. If you are willing to spend more, you may try to find some 125SC. Or W2 from this side of the pond... W2 often yields spectacular results with the right temp and claying.
  3. I don't think a spine thickness of 1/8" is an issue. In fact if you go for full flat grinds, a spine thinner than 1/8" on a chef will run the blade too thin near the edge(for a workhorse kitchen knife like a chef). Though it's ok for specialty slicers. Your issue, like Billy said, is the edge thickness. 1/32" is too much. I thin it down to 0.005" before hand sanding. The hand sanding brings it real close to zero. if you want hair splitting sharpness, you can also sharpen a bit finer than #1000. I do hone(like you hone a straight razor, edge first and no pressure, chan
  4. Yeah, just don't discard a candidate "Hamon steel" because it has a pinch of chrome. That was my point
  5. I believe this is debatable, at least to a certain point. This 26c3 stuff I've been using for my last kitchen blades produced what I believe to be good hamons and it has 0.3% chromium. https://youtu.be/y25e2qi71lA
  6. With my limited experience, I think the blue zone has a high % of martensite, the red zone probably partially hardened so it may have around 20-30%, while the green zone is dead soft. The steel under the clay generally hardens a little bit, unless it didn't reach aus temp that is...
  7. I've had cold rolled stock removal 26c3 blades warp several times even though the blades were quenched at full thickness and the bevels were unground. They were heat treated in my kiln and I believe the temp was equalized due to the 10 minutes soak, so it's was not an uneven temp issue. I believe it's because the steel was cold rolled and there was stress left in the steel, as Jerrod mentioned. AKS mentions if their steel is either C/R or H/R. What about yours?
  8. Simple answer is rust. You don't want your 1500 grit underside to rust while you finish the other side.
  9. I don't know how thick Chinese cleavers generally are, but if I remember well, the Serbian chef is around 1/8" thick. More like a very wide santoku
  10. It will work fine with O1 and 8670 but you may not get full hardness on 1084, especially with thick cross sections. 1084 is sorta in between medium and fast oil quench, where medium does fine for thin sections and fast is the go to for thicker sections. In other words, you may end up with auto hamons with thick blades and medium speed oils.
  11. Of course we do. I've already got a 10"x12" shed that's full of stuff. If it was only me, I'd have my garage already. But the president of the house wants other things done first .
  12. Sad news here, I just recently changed job and by default lost my knifemaking shop. It was a tough decision to make, but my last workplace was unsafe and I decided to leave and stay alive a bit longer. I'm keeping all my tools until I find a new place or build a garage next to the house.
  13. I took a few months pause from knifemaking and I'll probably resume my KITH this fall. If the deadline is still November, I can surely complete my work on time. Though I have to confess that I am a bit disappointed by the number of participants (absolutely not the quality, of course). I had hoped more would've joined through the passing months.
  14. Yeah, after I wrote I just remembered it's basically what makes a high speed steel . Tough luck...
  15. This steel uses tungsten carbides, which are right next to V carbides for hardness. I can't remember if tungsten increases red hardness though so I can't say if it's hard to forge. But from the looks of the alloying content, It could make half decent hamons. I personally don't like carbides so I prefer high hardness and hair popping low angle edges
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