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Joël Mercier

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Joël Mercier last won the day on September 29

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About Joël Mercier

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    Colonel Mustard
  • Birthday 04/07/1983

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    Male
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    Québec, Canada
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    Family, smithy, whisky!

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  1. It's my first time using this stuff and it left me wondering if the slag in the wrought is harder than the bandsaw teeth?
  2. I went to a hammer in and completed 2 billets with a 33# Anyang. One is a 26c3 and wrought San mai and the other is 1084/15n20 random+crushed W's attempt . Those little hammers can move a lot of metal!
  3. A while back I made a small kitchen knife for personal use. It was full tang with bullet wood scales. This wood is very dense and hard, like its name suggests. Even with protection, the wood shrunk a little over time. So now I can feel the pins and tang edges a little. It probably wouldn't have been a big deal with a hidden tang design but it's a bit annoying with a full tang.
  4. I'd wait a little after the shadow is gone, or recalescence might begin before your blade has reached the quench tank... I believe this happened to me at least twice.
  5. Perhaps. Or perhaps a burr was there but it was too tiny and I did not feel it. Can't say for sure, I'll try to pay more attention on my next.
  6. I've got a set of Shapton GlassStones which are made out of ceramic and they cut surprisingly fast. One thing I noticed, though, is that the edge did not form the usual burr when setting the bevels.
  7. Hey thanks again Jeff! It does indeed! I didn't notice anything different with the patina else than being a bit darker than usual. It doesn't show in the pics because I took them in daylight with lots of ambient light. I am also a poor photographer span widget
  8. Thanks Kerri! It really is up to you. When I work with thin stock, 0.078" is this case, I quench it at full thickness and grind my bevels after the temper. It's harder on belts but greatly reduces the risk of warping during the quench. When I use thicker stock, like 1/8" and up, I grind some before quenching. I assume the secondary bevel you speak of is the edge itself. If so, it is done at the very end of the making process. On kitchen knives I generally grind my primary bevel to around 0.005' at edge. The hand sanding generally removes around 0.002" total so I end up with a pretty thin edge. But it really is up to you and the desired purpose of the knife. You will want a boning knife thicker at edge than a nakiris...
  9. Yeah, I figured that one out. Good points Doug
  10. Mine costed me a hornless anvil in an exchange with a fellow bladesmith. It's a superficial Rockwell tester that requires, unsurprisingly, a special diamond indenter in order to be accurate. I got real lucky and found one in good condition on eBay. Those indenters can go as high as $600 when bought new. I paid $35
  11. Always the primary bevel first. When the blade has become reasonably thin and even at edge, you can sharpen it. But I'd advise you to complete the knife before putting an edge on, for obvious safety reasons.
  12. Thanks Will! For some reason(probably intense ambient light), the patina appears in the photos lighter than it really is. It really came out dark and I heard this steel etches real dark with ferric as well.
  13. Thank you Wes! Luckily, I got my hands on a Rockwell tester a little while back. So I tested this steel and got 67-68 as quenched and 63-64 when tempered at 375°f. Those numbers are pretty much exactly as advertised. On top of hardness, there's also a fair amount of cementite because of all this carbon so it was a pain to hand sand. I'm expecting better edge holding than 80CrV2 though...
  14. Thanks Alan! But I think there may be a mistake, this steel has between 0.2-0.3% silicon. It's toughness is credited to it's supposedly extremely low impurity level, much like Hitachi steel.
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