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Joël Mercier

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Everything posted by Joël Mercier

  1. I like it a lot Wes! For a first chef, you seem to have figured out the why's and how's of the geometry and ergonomics pretty well(much better than I did! ). The package is very appealing and it looks like a nice workhorse.
  2. You can also use Cashen's website as a reference or here. I think most common carbon steels are covered.
  3. I'm not sure I understand. Do you use 1550° as the quenching temperature? If so, you are overheating. You should use 1475.
  4. As I understand it, temperature is a much stronger factor than time for grain growth. You can have your blade sit in the kiln for quite a while at the correct temp without any noticeable grain growth. The first normalisation run at higher than critical is mostly to equalize the grain size and remove stresses, so I wouldn't worry much about gain size at this stage, as it is going to be shrunk later. Again, Jerrod will correct me if I'm wrong
  5. Yeah, a perfectly flat grind takes practice. You think it's flat until you begin to hand sand... Spend more time than you think you should on the higher grit belts and don't start your grind at the same place everytime. This should help with the "dips" on the blade. A disc sander also helps making a blade perfectly flat.
  6. Here, humidity has reached 99% earlier this week with a felt temperature of 43°c. And it can drop below -30°c in January/February. No wonder the roads are all messed up....
  7. What an exhilarating feeling to complete a personal best! Especially when it's an awesome piece like this . Thanks for sharing Jake!
  8. A quarter inch should be fine. About the whisky, I like pretty much any kind
  9. Thermal mass is what you need and is the absolute opposite to an insulator like vermiculite. A very thick pipe would help but temp fluctuations should be managed mostly at the source.
  10. I haven't the slightest. Don't bother, I'm not the easily offended type
  11. This is where the line of the spine begins to curve and "drop" towards the edge. I believe this is where "drop point" comes from. I am sorry not being able to explain this better due to my limited knowledge of English. I first noticed this phenomena when doing stock removal kitchen blades which had very pointy tips and low belly. The distal taper naturally formed while grinding if I kept grinding the blade parallel to the edge. I actually ended up with very thin tips (almost too thin).
  12. 1/4" is quite thick for a hunter, even with distal taper. A blade with a drop on the spine will naturally taper if you keep your grind parallel with the edge, if you don't tilt the blade when you're at the belly. At least, that's what I figured out. And you are correct regarding the point.
  13. Thanks for sharing! It is absolutely worth taking the time to watch.
  14. Thank you Robert! I kinda like it too, though I must admit it does trigger my OCD a little bit
  15. I will first have to make a knife to do it on
  16. Thanks Ross! One of these days I'm going to do a tutorial with pics and vids. A lot of people ask me how I do it. To be honest, it was just newbie guessing on how I thought I should do it .
  17. Cool looking hamons @Ross Vosloo
  18. If you can find L6 it would be a good alternative. Basically, if you want good contrast, you need a steel with a good amount of nickel.
  19. Nitrogen (if there truly is some) also helps with the stainless part. Nitrides(I think it's how it's called) fill the pores in the steel making it much more resistant to pitting.
  20. Butcher block oil and meticulous maintenance are the two things that first come to mind.
  21. I have found lighter pressure on the file when you're nearly done helps with that issue, apart what's been said already.
  22. Yeah, it's my second attempt at this wood. The first one the wood looked very boring and now on this one the grain is not properly aligned. It was a 1" thick plank so I could not rotate the wood to get the desired alignment.
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