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Joël Mercier

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Everything posted by Joël Mercier

  1. Just throwing an idea, perhaps some youngster from a cinema school would be more than willing to help you on this. It would be a pretty amazing opportunity to watch a master do his craft first hand.
  2. Here's a channel of another old fart that I particularly appreciate watching. Perhaps you could do something similar. Record small things at once. If you're not entirely comfortable to speak while recording, you can even narrate afterwards during the editing. I, for one, would love watching how you do what you do https://www.youtube.com/@BlackBearForge
  3. It looks like you have both an auto hamon and one caused by the clay. This can be caused by various factors such as an uneven temperature between surface and depth (colder core, usually at spine where it's thickest), overall geometry of the cross section, use of a slow quenchant, too much clay, or both. Edit: and if you mean by "soak" that you put the blade in there and waited 5 minutes, it may be the issue here. Thicker cross sections may require more than that to get up to temp.
  4. Congrats! It feels quite invigorating, doesn't it?
  5. In my experience on knife steel, 3M makes the fastest cutting/longest lasting/leaving less deeper scratches for 400 grit and up, but it's also the most expensive. Below 400 grit, Rhynowet redline is fastest, but sometimes leave deep scratches. I've also used a lot of Norton Black Ice. Good stuff, cheaper than 3M but not as good. results my vary between makers
  6. That looks like a lot of drawfiling! On my side, I've started hand sanding the 63hrc 12" blade. One side done at 320 grit. This is going to require a lot of patience...
  7. Looking forward to see that wrought hawk completed
  8. Not excellent, but easily fixed with a little sanding. These are 3d printed, but quite sturdy.
  9. Had some time for the final grind on the meat slicer. Convex ground to 100 micron. I am happy with the hamon. I think it's gonna pop nicely after hand sanding. PXL_20240115_154904248.TS~2.mp4
  10. I bought this. https://maritimeknifesupply.ca/products/orion-sanding-stick They've got different inserts options(flat, radius, leather backed) and sizes.
  11. Hello Steve, I would say sketching the knife on the drawing board first always helped me for the overall visuals. If something doesn't seem quite right, it's much easier to fix. If I was to tell you things to improve for your second knife, that would be the overall harmony of the lines and perhaps the symmetry and length of your guard. The rest is mostly a matter of fit and finish that will come with practice. Keep up the work!
  12. Hello friends, it's been a while since I made anything knife related, since may 2023 I believe. So I decided to start the year with a "little" something I had never done. A 12" blade meat slicer. It's the first blade I do that showed a visible sori. I wanted to try a water quench but chickened out at the last moment, so it's a negative sori. Now, of course, the hamon bug bite makes me quite impatient so see what's hidden in there...
  13. I used to forge HT(thermocouple assisted for ballpark temperature and decalescence for precision) with excellent results but now I furnace HT because it's more convenient for me and I built own furnace for just 400 bucks. I also get less warps in the furnace. ATP-641 also works really well to prevent decarb and a single pint will go a long way. All in all it was a no brainer for me to switch to furnace, but of course I don't look down on makers who forge HT. It certainly is more fun than furnace HT, especially when you nail it. I believe the bad press towards forge HT isn't entirely bs though. The FiF craze made lots of new makers in a short time, with lots thinking HT by colour was fine.
  14. It's not that the steel(26c3) necessarily hits higher as quenched hardness, but rather that it has higher working hardness than the usual carbon steel because it's still reasonably tough at 64hrc+.
  15. I furnace HT and also noticed a good difference between my 1095 and 26c3 kitchen knives I daily use. Both are good, but the 26c3 definitely has the upper hand in terms of edge edge holding. IMO it's an excellent inexpensive steel, well worth the extra vs 1095.
  16. Silicone does not at all. As far as I know, it's usually added to improve impact resistance. And the chromium content of 26c3 is so low that it doesn't form carbides in a meaningful way. It's mostly for strength purpose.
  17. It is because the J type has a different slope. I'm just gonna state the obvious and say use K type for your K type probe.
  18. Here's an interesting read about the Chinese cleaver. Makes me want to try that type on my next one. https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/blog/why-i-use-a-chinese-cleaver/
  19. I believe what your costumer is asking is more the Chinese cleaver type, which is similar to a Nakiri, but with a wider blade. A traditional western cleaver is made for chopping bones, tendons, etc. Heavy butcher work...not good at all on fine work and vegetables.
  20. I've heard a lot of carbides pop off on the guides which they are just glued on. So I bought one with screwed on carbides. Also, here's a model made for integrals: https://maritimeknifesupply.ca/products/behnke-integral-file-guide
  21. Thanks, About the bevels, I forgot to mention it was S ground. Also, the heel has a different angle for increased strength. It was a pain to hand sand...
  22. Anyways, that is indeed a good opportunity to develop muscle memory. Just don't overwork yourself and get hurt huh?
  23. Are you going to use some sort of superquench to get a sorta real edge?
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