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Joël Mercier

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Everything posted by Joël Mercier

  1. Why not complete it and keep it for yourself? If your welds are good and you like the shape, it'll make a good tool you'll use daily and will eventually come up with pointers for the nexts.
  2. On the contrary, if done by stock removal, you have to soak at high temp this steel to dissolve the carbides locked in a coarse spheroidized state. A 10 minutes hold at 1600 for the first heat sounds just fine. 5 minutes for the others is enough with most cross sections. 1435 is a bit low for a p50 quench though, I would go a bit higher. But first of all, get some anti scale coating! Atp-641 works very well and imo is crucial for electrical HT furnaces.
  3. I am guessing 1045 steel performance at most
  4. I like the whole package. That was quite ambitious for a second knife . If I was to give your some critics, I'd say you're spine line is a bit weird and could have been easily fixed with a file or on the grinder. That's about it. Well done
  5. Yeah, I got a block too....and 1.5 pint of ATP. I don't plan on trying the wax until I'm through with the ATP, but it'd fun if someone here tried it, for prosperity
  6. It does and it supposedly leaves a film that protects the blade.
  7. So far I've seen 3 makers using butcher's and carnauba wax with excellent results. Still, I remain sceptical until I try it myself.
  8. It works very well. I use it on every knife I make. There's also the new trend of using wax. It apparently does the same as ATP, but I didn't try it yet.
  9. A good trick is to grind off the decarb and dunk the blade in ferric chloride. Any softer spots will show lighter than the rest.
  10. Yes. I go full speed on 60 grit or coarser. 60-70% on 120 grit and so on ...
  11. Tips and edges are what usually overheats during grinding. Are you sure the blade was properly hardened to begin with? Anyways, to prevent overheating when I grind, I use fresh belts and my bare hands. When it becomes too hot to the touch, I dunk in water. Usually 2 passes between dunks at first and one per dunk when the blade gets tinner. I also progressively reduce pressure as I get closer to the tip.
  12. Perhaps I could ask her to secretly take a shot of what he's currently using.
  13. Sadly, I cannot. It's a retirement gift...
  14. I have shuck a few but that was a loooong time ago. I love oysters but I always eat them at the restaurant, where they're already prepared... So, basically "sharper" near the tip and full blunt everywhere else?
  15. Here's one from a "Top 6" review list I found. Hollow grinds and convex "edge". Just to show I'm not completely idiot
  16. Honestly, I believe this tool has been the one I've read the most contradictory information about, from both professionals and enthusiasts. Some like the flat screwdriver tip, some don't. Some like a bit of sharpness, some prefer blunt. I've also seen all types of geometry. My idea was to go for hollow grinds with a convex semi-sharp edge. Mostly because I wanted stiffness. Maybe I should go for a thinner blade with convex edges..... My stock is 1/8" W2
  17. You tell me . I have no idea how this is going to end either. I'll complete the blade and see if the geometry makes sense. If not, I'll just design another one. I'm going to put 5" radius hollow bevels and see if it works or not.
  18. Thanks, I guess. I'm gonna have to figure this out before I begin, cuz it's going to be an expensive piece of myrtle burl
  19. Yeah, seems the water quench wasn't the only culprit...
  20. It'll be a nimble little chef for sure.
  21. If your welds are strong, it shouldn't matter much. But a 3/4" round is plenty to forge a knife from so you don't need to stack them at all, unless you want to forge a large chopper or such. 5160 is also tricky to forge weld to itself because of the chrome that quickly forms a thin layer of chromium oxyde that will prevent good welds.
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