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Joël Mercier

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Everything posted by Joël Mercier

  1. I can vouch for this company. Excellent long lasting product.
  2. Clean and sleek. Well done Conner.
  3. There's plenty of market for kitchen knives though. Well, at least in my country... My kitchen blades usually gets sold within the first day. They are mostly in the 500-700$ range. And I have to agree with Alan about all the warnings that need to be done about carbon steel. It's the annoying part. Anyways, that's a cool idea for a blade you had there. If you ever need pointers about geometry or anything, just hook me up. I'm no expert, but I believe I know enough to make decent tools.
  4. The grain looks quite smooth except in the middle of the blade, as if it did not fully harden there. Perhaps an etch could give us clues.
  5. Still not fully in control of the pattern with 26c3, but I'm starting to get more activity. W2 steel is definitely easier.
  6. The atmosphere of a HT furnace will eat your steel if not protected because there's nothing to burn the oxygen like a propane forge does. Google ATP-641, it's relatively cheap considering the amount of blade your can coat with a single pint and it's very potent at preventing scale and decard. I am not saying it's currently your issue, it's just an observation I did while reading your post.
  7. You did not mention if you use anti-scale coating. It would be a good idea.
  8. I've just made one wrought/HC billet so far. The HC was 26c3. All I can tell is the wrought will spread easier so you may end up needing to trim the edges. So forging your wrought near final thickness before welding is a good idea.
  9. First, make sure you are using slow speed. Next, yes, normalisation is a good idea. Also make sure you grind all the scale before drilling. V2 doesn't air harden much. It can slightly harden in thin cross section or if you left it cool on the anvil. If the normalisation doesn't do the trick, try cooling it slower in the forge or vermiculite.
  10. Those work fine as long as you use one that's near double the power rating of your motor. So a 2.2kw is ok for a 2hp motor. I bought mine from Amazon 3-4 years ago and it's still working fine, though I make just a dozen or so blades per year. You also need to put them in a sealed enclosure. You don't want metal dust in electronics...
  11. Like already mentioned, you can't use a VFD on a single phase motor. You also can't use a 3 phase motor on single phase 220v(well, not without a costly phase converter). You either go for step pulleys and a single phase motor, or VFD with 3phase motor.
  12. You can see the completed piece here
  13. You'd be surprised what you can do with some ideas and patience.
  14. You're doing good. You can always refine the profile with files or a grinder. You usually want the spine and edge not completely parallel, unless you're making long slicers or such.
  15. The edge has to be honed after being sharpened to at least #3000. I do this with my #10000 water stone, edge first and very low pressure, often just the weight of the blade. You switch side every pass. I've done it with the #6000 side of a King stone with good result as well. Then I strop on a leather board with fine diamond paste. edit: not that it has any practical use... it's just for the fun of it and makes nice marketing vids Yet, I have found that a fine polished edge stays sharp longer with just the occasional strop.
  16. You can get hair whittling sharp with just a 30$ King 1000/6000 water stone. It's about the technique.
  17. I believe that past a certain point, it should be called honing Speaking of honing, I believe straight razors honing techniques did help me understand how to get an edge this sharp.
  18. Yes. How deep the decarb layer first depends if you properly removed the scale/decarb from forging, then how long and how high temp it was held for austenizing. I suggest you use anti-scale compound such as ATP-641 for austenizing.
  19. Just for the record, I use a triangle calculator. https://www.calculator.net/triangle-calculator.html Not that it's going to much useful if you don't already know what angle your want. Also, I learned that grinding too thin at edge is no good when you hack into dry dead tree knots. My bladesportish knife blade is like a cooked bacon now . I have been extremely hard on it though, because I wanted to know it's limits. I don't think hacking into 2x4 would ever have done such damage.
  20. Thanks for pointing that out. Though I can assure you it's entirely by chance .
  21. Thank you. For the wood grain, the credit isn't mine. I rarely do that, but I bought a pre cut stabilized block. Thanks Brian
  22. Thank you gentlemen Edit: ops, and lady.
  23. Hello there, I finally finished the oyster knoife. It was fun and I tried and learned some new stuff on the way. The blade is 80CrV2 tempered as soft as I could without TME. It's got flat grinds and convex "edges". The "tentacle" guard is cold blued mild steel with copper sucker inserts. The spacer is acid aged copper and handle is myrtle.
  24. My thought as well. It's an awful lot of money to be using decalescence. At this rate, an HT oven seems to have only advantages vs the induction forge, for heat treatment that is...
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