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Joël Mercier

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Posts posted by Joël Mercier

  1. I've seen some cases here an there on FB of makers who had soft patch issues on their 1084 and W2(most were stock removal). Most had HT furnaces and attempted several procedures to try and fix it. Some had success using a high temp first cycle. Some couldn't be fixed no matter what, like there was no carbon in the steel. 


    Those cases remain anecdotal though it certainly was frustrating to the makers. 

  2. (Yield) strength is measured as the amount of force required to cause permanent plastic deformation. Like a blade you will try to bend but will spring back completely until you bend it hard enough it will stay slightly bent of break. Strength will vary depending on either how hard the steel is, or how thick is is. Both harder or thicker blade will take more force before it takes a kink. But if you make the steel too hard, you'll either need a thick geometry that doesn't cut very well or you'll risk edge chipping or even blade breaking if used on a thinner geometry.


    Toughness is measured as the amount of additional force the steel can absorb from the yield point to the ultimate strength(point of rupture). Like how much of a kink will the blade resist before it breaks. The same applies to the edge here. A tougher edge will roll before it chips.


    Those are more or so equally important attributes you need to take in consideration when choosing the steel and heat treatment depending on the type of knife, geometry and usage.


    Hardness usually correlates with strength and edge holding up to a certain extent.

    • Thanks 1
  3. 18 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

    1095 blade. I decided to go for Hamon and at the last minute, I decided to scratch some figures into the clay and see what happened. They are duplicated on the opposing side as well.

    Oh, this is going to be interesting to see if the characters make it past the decarb. 

  4. Those are quite cool. Gotta ask, what's with the bottom one?


    Today I sorta finished(will need touch ups) the first chef blade of the pair. I started to machine the bolster but I realized it was too narrow and I'm going to have to start over...no big deal.



    • Like 4
  5. 11 hours ago, Jeff Amundson said:

    Today I tried drilling the pivot hole before doing any grinding. It's the first time I've done it this way. I need the pivot screw in place to finish the hot work, but I don't like cleaning the scale off multiple times. The forgings need to fit together as forged, but it will let me finish the hot work before touching the grinder.

    The white mark on the blade is where the tool steel cutting edge ends.


    Are your scissor blades slightly curved towards each other? 


    Anyways, I know a great maker named Grace Horne. She can be found on FB and I believe she'd answer any questions you ask. 

  6. A back liner also helps. That's what I do on this type of arrangement. 


    Back liner, pins, and I drill holes that go through the tang and liners. It creates some sort of hidden epoxy rivets. If you do all this and use a good epoxy, I swear to god it's not going to move anywhere :lol:



    Edit: Btw, this thread just reminded me my GFlex is 2 years old and I need to replace it...

    I also forgot to mention that 24 hours epoxy usually has a stronger bond. It also gives you more time to glue everything together before starting to cure...

  7. Did the first grind and HTed the k tips today. Went for a hamon on both, because why not. I tried to layout the clay exactly the same on both. It'll be interesting to see the variations between the two. 


    One came out of the oil dead straight. The other had a kink on the whole blade. Tempering sure took care of that. 


    • Like 3
  8. Now that looks like a sturdy little pocket knife Gary.


    On my side, I got two k tip chefs ready for pre HT grind. Probably going to try a hamon on at least one. My last hamon on 26c3 went all funky so I'll try to sort this out. I also have an idea for a cool 3 part sculpted bolster to go on these. 


    Tips for the new makers: 


    1. If you look at the tang transition, you'll see a bar of different color. That's because I thinned down the tang with a carbide file guide and a mill bastard file's edge, just a few mils, to make bolster fitting easier and cleaner. No gaps visible this way. The rest of the tang will be thinned down on the grinder.


    2. I keep the tip square until the very end of the final grind. It's less likely you'll overheat the tip during HT and grinding. Then I slowly grind the tip back pointy, with lots of water. 



    • Like 2
  9. On 12/30/2021 at 10:33 AM, Pieter-Paul Derks said:

    kitchen timer

    I use my cell phone's timer ^_^


    This isn't scientific, but I have soaked various steels(W2, 80crv2, 1095, 26c3, 1084) for several minutes and it has not visibly affected the grain size on any of these. For example, I do a 10 minutes hold on 26c3 and the grain is so small I can't see it. I've done 15 minutes on thicker W2.


    Where I'm going is I believe that if you've got a mean to accurately control your temperature, a good soak will ensure the blade temperature is homogeneous throughout and doesn't visibly impact the grain size.  


    Btw, I use 1575°f for 80crv2 as well, with great results.

  10. 14 minutes ago, Paul Checa said:

    So Joel the mustard patina... Are qué gonna be lucky enough to get the recipe? Haha 

    I gave it a while back on this forum. There's a pinned thread somewhere. Not many have been able to duplicate it through, not sure why.. 


    It does hold up long enough to blend in properly with the natural patina. After 2 years, my daily knife still has it but it has somewhat faded in the blend.


    Edit: here's how it looks.


  11. 3 minutes ago, Joshua States said:

    That really bothered him because he spent a lot of effort and time making sure that knife would perform under use. 

    Doesn't this bother us all...

    At least you don't have that issue with kitchen knives :lol:

    • Like 1
  12. 5 hours ago, Alan Longmire said:

    If you look at old French Sabatier brand knives, you'll see they have a BIG integral plunge that strengthens the heel.  



    They've been doing that for over 150 years, must have  a reason for it. B)

    Yes and I also hate stone sharpening those. I left just enough clearance on mines to sharpen the heel without having the plunge in the way. But they're obviously not as sturdy as the Sabatiers...


    And thank you Joshua and Doug for the kind words. 

  13. On 12/12/2021 at 4:32 PM, Alan Longmire said:

    Nice plunges!  

    Thanks, though I must admit I "cheated" a bit and used my carbide file guide. 


    I was afraid it was going to be in the way for stone sharpening, but It went just fine. And I don't get that bad heel flex feeling on the cutting board I usually get when I use one of my kitchen lasers. All in all, I believe it's worth the extra work. 

  14. Two xmas gifts i managed to complete in time. 


    Blades are 6 inch long flat grinds with a slight convex near the edge. The spines and reinforced finger choils/heels are well rounded for comfort. They are tempered at 63hrc. 

    For the handles, one is full linen micarta with g10 liners and the other is black canvas micarta, zebra wood and g10 liners.










    • Like 8
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