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Joël Mercier

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Everything posted by Joël Mercier

  1. Those are very kind words, thanks again guys. Once my garage is built, I'll get back to it, with perhaps a new perspective. Maybe a little less serious and a little more fun .
  2. There are two basic and better ways to measure your temperature. The easier to spot and most obvious way is the table salt, which melts at around 1474°f. The other way is using the decalescence. Watch videos on YouTube about decalescence/recalescence for more info. It is harder to spot than melting salt because there must be almost no ambient light.
  3. Hello Mikkel, I'm going to first get this out of the way, you are mixing the terms anneal and temper. When you say 2x anneal at 230°c, you are referring to tempering. Now, how are you monitoring your temperatures? I don't know this particular steel, but 820°c seems about right because of the chrome slightly raising the quench temp compared to plain carbon steel. So the problem would rather be in the accuracy of your temp measurements. You said you used a magnet for normalization. So how did you judge you were at 820° at the quench? Also, the first normalization cycle s
  4. Thought I'd show the finished piece of my failed attempt to complete 2020 kith in time. I've got maybe two more blades I can finish into knives, then I'm done for a year or two, maybe more. Such is life... Steel is W2. Handle is curly maple with copper and Zeb Camper's wrought iron (part of an overly generous gift, thanks again man).
  5. It looks great to me except your edge profile could use some rework. It's a very important aspect that will dictate how the knife will be moved. The widest part of a chef blade should always be at the heel. But we can clearly see in your first pic that the middle of the blade is somewhat flat and there's some belly both ways. The edge should be almost flat near the heel and have a progressive belly towards the tip, following a line that's not parallel to the spine. Here's an exaggerated sketch of what I'm talking about. Edit: making a smooth and progressive edge profile is harder t
  6. if there's a radius, it's the one on the edges of a 4" mill bastard file, probably no more than a couple of mils. Anyway, I guess what I was trying to say is if your design is well made(for example: the tang on a katana which is nearly as strong as the blade itself), this sharp corner detail becomes much less important.
  7. I made sharp corner shoulders on this one and I'm not worried at all about it because the tang is wide and thick near the shoulders. I remember Alan mentioning not to overly emphasize on this "issue", pointing out how katanas are made.
  8. I sorta feel bad for not completing this work in time, but life happens I guess. I lately amassed enough will to try and finish this project. Blade finished and handle glued up. Now to the butt cap...
  9. It's just that coffee etch alone will more easily wash off. The ferric will give it better depth.
  10. A short dip in ferric chloride, then you wash off the oxides and put the blade in a jar of super strong instant coffee for at least 12h.
  11. The amount of plastic deformation the steel can endure before breaking. I believe that's how the guys who make the charts define it. Generic picture from Google. Toughness is defined by the plastic range I believe. I'm sure our metalurgist can weight in at this point . main-qimg-86ab4f919bd32fa89b8cffa8399fff00.webp
  12. 1084 is twice as tough as 1095 and O1 and as you know, it's easy to HT. Check out this chart from Knife steel nerds. It will also depend on your HT.
  13. You could try directly at Uddeholm and explain your disaray and love for their steel. They are steel nerds too . I'm telling you this because I know at least one guy who did this and was successful. Good luck pal
  14. Jake pretty much nailed it. And I too agree that you've done pretty good with then steel you've used. On a side note, I have been on a French bladesmith FB group for a while and they've mostly been using eurotechni's XC100 and some C130 for hamons. So if hamons are your itch, these may be worth a try. If you are willing to spend more, you may try to find some 125SC. Or W2 from this side of the pond... W2 often yields spectacular results with the right temp and claying.
  15. I don't think a spine thickness of 1/8" is an issue. In fact if you go for full flat grinds, a spine thinner than 1/8" on a chef will run the blade too thin near the edge(for a workhorse kitchen knife like a chef). Though it's ok for specialty slicers. Your issue, like Billy said, is the edge thickness. 1/32" is too much. I thin it down to 0.005" before hand sanding. The hand sanding brings it real close to zero. if you want hair splitting sharpness, you can also sharpen a bit finer than #1000. I do hone(like you hone a straight razor, edge first and no pressure, chan
  16. Yeah, just don't discard a candidate "Hamon steel" because it has a pinch of chrome. That was my point
  17. I believe this is debatable, at least to a certain point. This 26c3 stuff I've been using for my last kitchen blades produced what I believe to be good hamons and it has 0.3% chromium. https://youtu.be/y25e2qi71lA
  18. With my limited experience, I think the blue zone has a high % of martensite, the red zone probably partially hardened so it may have around 20-30%, while the green zone is dead soft. The steel under the clay generally hardens a little bit, unless it didn't reach aus temp that is...
  19. I've had cold rolled stock removal 26c3 blades warp several times even though the blades were quenched at full thickness and the bevels were unground. They were heat treated in my kiln and I believe the temp was equalized due to the 10 minutes soak, so it's was not an uneven temp issue. I believe it's because the steel was cold rolled and there was stress left in the steel, as Jerrod mentioned. AKS mentions if their steel is either C/R or H/R. What about yours?
  20. Simple answer is rust. You don't want your 1500 grit underside to rust while you finish the other side.
  21. I don't know how thick Chinese cleavers generally are, but if I remember well, the Serbian chef is around 1/8" thick. More like a very wide santoku
  22. It will work fine with O1 and 8670 but you may not get full hardness on 1084, especially with thick cross sections. 1084 is sorta in between medium and fast oil quench, where medium does fine for thin sections and fast is the go to for thicker sections. In other words, you may end up with auto hamons with thick blades and medium speed oils.
  23. Of course we do. I've already got a 10"x12" shed that's full of stuff. If it was only me, I'd have my garage already. But the president of the house wants other things done first .
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