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Joël Mercier

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Everything posted by Joël Mercier

  1. If you want to make your own burners, there's a thread on this forum here. This is the one I built for my propane tank forge. It can forge weld and it is stable even when used outside with a light wind.
  2. 3mm is plenty. A well made forge can get hot, but never red hot.
  3. I feel the pain! I've hand sanded many hard chef knives. On your next one(if there ever is), try grinding the blade to #220 on the 2x72. Then switch to trizac or equivalent up to #320. Try using a large sharpie on your blade between grits. It'll help to spot deeper scratches. With that trick, you should be able to start hand sanding to at least #220 or even #330 instead of #120. The 120 grit wet/dry paper doesn't cut much at takes forever to hand sand.
  4. This is just something I noticed while fixing tang shoulders after HT. The chainsaw file would bite where my other files wouldn't. That's why I did some research to find out it was harder. Edit: I did some more research to find out there can be a huge difference in chainsaw file hardness. I just happened to get lucky when I bought a bulk of old files with those included. They're swiss pattern XLIW(super hard)and I could cut 60hrc steel with it. But like I said, it will dull out quickly.
  5. Chainsaw files are typically harder that the usual file(they're designed to "sharpen" hardened steel after all). I remember reading as high as 70 HRC. Let's say your blade is 59hrc, the file should be able to cut enough material before it's dull. Then you finish with a rod of slightly smaller diameter with wet dry sandpaper around. Or simply grind your dull file down. So, you file your hook down to around 0.05" at an angle of around 30° before HT. Do the remaining 5 mils with the same file post HT. Then clean the hook/sharpen with sandpaper. Just my 5 cents(no one ce
  6. There are makers who don't hand sand at all. If you do hollow grinds, they use a hard(around 80 duro) rubber wheel for grinding and a soft(around 30 duro) rubber wheel with trizac or equivalent belts for finishing. For flat grinds, they use a rotary platen with the same trizac belts. You will have to use either layout fluid or a large sharpie on the whole blade between grits because the scratches are very hard to spot without.
  7. It's been what, 3.5 years since I first posted here, working with a file jig? And now I'm being published in Blade. This is crazy... And mostly because of this forum. The knife pictured was supposed to be in the KITH and I couldn't finish it in time. Thanks to everyone here who took the time to answer my questions with patience and respect.
  8. I somehow missed that. It's a completely sick piece!
  9. Beautiful work Alex, well done!
  10. Thanks! I might try this on my next "art" knife. I already did . According to him, he'll be back this fall. You can't back up now @Zeb Camper
  11. The Camper/Mercier collab knife is completed . It'll be heading back to Zeb next week for the sheath.
  12. That's cool! So far, I have used Owen's hardy tool method, which also worked well. Anyways, thanks for posting! P.S. When I first tried to watch the video, it said the link was unavailable. That's why I did not post a reply sooner.
  13. I don't know if it's popular in the US, but in Canada, Interac is what most people use. It's available with most bank apps.
  14. Files are good when the geometry of the blade allows you to set your bevels very close to final before the heat treatment. Blades with narrow bevels and thick spines like swords and hunters will do just fine. But try and use that technique on a 2" wide blade chef .
  15. In my case, it's cilantro that tastes like soap. Another matter of genes, apparently.
  16. The piece of wood isn't at it's final size yet. But, yes, chamfering will make the transition smoother and more natural. Isn't it what they call the "museum fit"?
  17. Yeah, there's already a lot I believe... I'll rework the horn a little bit as I think the size is not quite right yet, and finish the wood nice and slick.
  18. Unfortunately, I've got zero tools for carving besides files and mini rasps so I'm limited in what I can do.
  19. Getting there... Should I flute the wood as well? Perhaps half as many flutes as the horn? Or just plain and clean?
  20. 80crv2 is also a good option. It's got a wide austenization temp range and good hardenability.
  21. Some more work done on the handle. It was my first time filing a twist. Time consuming, but fun! In case you wonder, it's a piece of ram's horn and it stinks . The general shape should be puukko inspired. https://youtube.com/shorts/HHI-pWs21CU?feature=share
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