Jump to content

Mike Ward

Members
  • Content Count

    141
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    5

Mike Ward last won the day on July 14

Mike Ward had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

71 Excellent

About Mike Ward

  • Birthday 11/20/1997

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Kalamazoo

Recent Profile Visitors

558 profile views
  1. Thanks Joel! I appreciate it. Thanks! I had some scrap pieces leftover from my brief cutting board phase. The Padauk is probably going to darken to a more maroon shade like the cutting board shown. I think it’s from the same board.
  2. Thanks Gary! I didn’t notice any problems with any of the processes, only that the wear resistance was more noticeable when hand sanding and profiling for the tang shoulders should be done before heat treat if you’re using a file. Do you have any problems with thin 80crv2?
  3. Probably my best knife just because I have access to a heat treat oven. The handle is Padauk and curly maple. 80crv2 steel 7” heel to tip 1.75” at the heel ~.100” thick at the bolster area down to ~.005 before sharpening. Overall, I like it, especially the blade shape and the handle material, but I can’t figure out what is off. I think the handle needs bigger facets, they’re at 1/8” right now. What do you think?
  4. Left six are a set of random Damascus blades for a wedding gift. Right four are 1084/80crv2 kitchen knives I’m hoping to sell somehow. The chefs are all 7-7.5”.
  5. Forged this last night. ~6” chef knife, it was probably the best forging I have done yet. Just moving the material to the right spot and having it straight in the end. Really surprised me when I went to grinding how nice it was to not have to remove a lot.
  6. @Geoff Keyes thank you!! I was finally able to make a visit home and opened your KITH knife. The curly maple looks really good.
  7. It’s all good Geoff. I can’t wait to open it! Glad you like what I made.
  8. Been awhile but I got them heat treated and finish ground. The big chef and the carving both warped at their tips but I got them out with the shim and temper method. These are at only 120 grit with a quick sneak peak etch.
  9. Sorry I missed the drawing. Senior year of engineering school has been kicking my butt . I might be able to finish it next weekend if Geoff wants it
  10. And the full set. I finished grinding this morning and then normalized them all 3x. Now I got problems. The chef, carving and utility knives all warped and I stupidly did not leave enough meat to grind them out. I think my best bet is either shim and temper or pull out in the quench and clamp between two boards. What do you think?
  11. My sister is getting married in January and for a wedding present I’m making them a full 6 piece knife set. Kinda doing all this work just because I can, practice and I need a long project for the school year. A few weeks ago, I went over to another bladesmiths shop and made a bar of ~180 layer random pattern Damascus. We were able to get ~1.25x.25x.24. I’m planning on a chef, carving, utility, paring and 2 steak knives. I made a few drawing of each type of knife as a reference to go off of. The end pieces are probably gonna look similar but not exact. My sister and her fiancé liked all of the drawings on the bottom. It’s kinda helped that he has made knives before and knows what I’m talking about when discussing shapes and whatnot while my sister is befuddled. Dim: ~7.5”x2” Dim: ~7”x1.25” Dim: 5”x1.5” They like the middle paring one. Dim: 3”x1” Dim: 4”x1” Last weekend, I forged and ground the chef knife and utility. For the chef knife, I cut out the drawing and used that as a template to go off of. The tang I set first before cutting off the bar, cut it off at 4.25” from the heel then broke the edges on the point. That amount of material is enough to give a 7.5x2x~1/8 forged blade. If you’re braver than I, you could probably could get more length. From there, lengthened it by drawing down the width and thickness to a distal taper. Once the bar is tapered, I went back to the heel and used my more rounded hammer and my cross pein to draw down the heel. With the cross pein, I drew material from the middle of the blade back into the heel to get more height. From there, I bananaed the blade down and did beveling and profile adjustments. With the utility knife, I again set the tang before cutting 3” off the bar from the heel. The amount of material is a guesstimate based off of other projects and it seems to be working out. I did the same basic process as the chef knife on this one too. Right now these are ready for heat treatment for which I’m going to send out so that they’re done properly in a temp controlled oven. They are both at .115” on the spine and about .05” on the edge. The chef knife is at 7.5” by 1 7/8” at the heel which is perfect. The utility is 5.25” long and 1.5” at the heel. This is basically a big opportunity for me to do stuff I’ve never done before for some people I care about. Plus, therapy for my senior year of college when I need to get away. What do y’all think? Anything wrong or off?
  12. Mike Ward

    School fun

    Naw it’s Trine University. Idk if WMU even has a foundry, I live close to Kalamazoo and I haven’t heard anything. And I don’t know haha I’m hoping I can make at least billets of Damascus or break down large pieces bc there’s a no weapons making policy. I’ve already tried the “cutlery” loophole with no luck.
  13. Mike Ward

    School fun

    So the university that I go to has finally bought a pneumatic power hammer, press, and forge that they’ve been talking about for the past 3 years. My prof and the lab technician were firing it up last Friday and invited me to suit up and test it all out. And I found that I REALLY REALLY REALLY like power hammers . I used the power hammer to flatten a 3/8 rebar piece in one heat. Bc it’s pneumatic, I had a ton of control over how hard it hit. They were thinking of making a little club type thing for hitting metal every week.
  14. Yes!!! Please!! Sorry for hijacking. But yes, a drawing tutorial would be fantastic.
  15. Finished a ~8.5” chefs knife for my brother. It’s 1 7/8” at the heel, ~.135 at the spine with a distal taper down to the tip. Grinding it, I got the edge down to about .015” and then convexed it down to about .001-.003”. The handle is Birdseye maple with a copper spacer. It’s thicker than I would like personally but his fingers are about an inch longer. He specifically told me to make it heavier towards the heel and heavier in general than the cheap knives. I tested it out and it cuts and feels fantastic to me. I think for the next knife it could be a bit thinner at the spine, probably .115-.125” I think. What do y’all think?
×
×
  • Create New...