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Mike Ward

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Everything posted by Mike Ward

  1. Gerhard, This year and mostly the first half, I finished (operative word here) 12 blades, I think. There’s a pretty good pile of blades that I screwed up with the grinder. I believe these are the rest of them, at least what’s in my photo library. I’ve really started to find my groove and maybe my style with each piece building on the next one in terms of form and shape. I haven’t done anything recently because I’m working on turning my garage into my workshop. And my current one with my forge and grinder is an hour away. This is the only pic i have of this one.
  2. Thanks Don! I appreciate it, I usually have the distal taper from forging and in this one I took it all the way down.
  3. Haven’t posted or been on here in a very long time but here are the blades I’ve finished this past year. I don’t know exact dimensions because it’s been a while since I’ve made them but I’ll do my best. Little over 8” blade out of 80crv2 with black linen micarta and bocote. Heel I think is 2 1/8” tall, I remember that this was a thicker blade both at the spine (.13” maybe?) and edge (.01-.015?). This is about 7” blade out of W1 drill rod with some autohamon from a forge heat treatment. Between 1 7/8” - 2” tall heel. The handle is dyed curly maple with gr
  4. I found this site that sells pure tung oil, real milk paint (https://www.realmilkpaint.com/category/oils/). People use their tung oil products for countertops, turned bowls, butcher blocks and cutting boards. They has MSDS sheets too. I have used their pure tung oil and half & half tung oil and citrus solvent. I use a couple of coats of the half & half letting it dry off then 1-2 coats of pure tung oil a day for about 5-7 days before letting it dry then buff however long that takes. I used it on these wenge handles with no problems at all. I use both every day and they g
  5. Does anyone have an issue with their propane tanks where the flow limiter is extremely sensitive and activates not matter what? I have two new Manchester propane tanks from TSC, a 20 lb tank and a 40 lb tank. Both are still on their first fill up. My dad is using the 20lb to heat water for a steam box or at least wanted to. It won’t even let a turkey fryer be lit because it’s tripping. It’s basically a dud right now. The 40 lb I am using to run my forge. I have used it probably 5-7 times with mostly no issues. The flow limiter has tripped several times. Especially at the p
  6. Put this fullering jig together. Sorry you have to see the horrendous welds
  7. Not today, but a couple days ago I tested my new forge with getting up to welding temps. And it worked great! I stacked 3 pieces of 1084 .25” x 1.25” x 3”, tacked and added a handle and forge welded them to a solid piece. I did another first with the new block and made a big integral chefs knife. Overall, I’m pleased I was able to do it, especially all by hand hammering. Now I know what to look for when making integrals and have ideas to fix the little things I don’t like. Now I’m waiting on that delivery of 15n20 and 1084 to make some fun stuff
  8. I’ve been cleaning and reorganizing my shop for the past couple of days. Today, I made a hammer and tongs stand to replace a table that I put everything on. Still need a bracket to put tongs on. I still have to change a couple of breakers out for 20 amp and rewire for a 30 amp breaker to run a welder.
  9. Thanks guys. I think that’s the issue, however I’m only running at 6 psi and it was in the middle of the forging session where it was running for awhile. In the future though, I’ll turn the regulator down before turning on the gas just in case.
  10. SERIOUS, HELP! Is there any reason why on a new 40 lb tank that the pressure gauge randomly drops to zero and won’t supply gas? I’ve been using a different 20 lb tank just fine but once I switched tanks it sputters then losses pressure. All lines and fittings are leak free and tight. The openings of the forge are clear. And the tank valve is wide open. What in the blazes do you think is happening?
  11. Well crud, I could of used this 2 semesters ago . I got some things clarified in my head with the pictures, especially the dislocation and grain growth/boundary stuff. Thank you!
  12. Did the handle shaping on this 7.5” kitchen knife. The wood is Padauk, I’ve used it for making cutting boards and looks great on a knife.
  13. Celebrating my dads birthday with brats, homemade fries and a fire. Luckily, the weather cleared up for a nice night.
  14. I got the guard lugs filed down to near finish thickness and shaped them to a point. It’s all pinned together and profiled. Next I’m going to handsand the blade to 600g and glue it all together.
  15. Thanks Zeb! The copper is .025” thick. The guard is .535” thick, if I take to down closer to .5” i think it’ll work. What do you think?
  16. Finally got the guard fitted right, only took 3 days, and rough cut the guard out. Started to work on the handle, drilled it out, and bedded the tang in epoxy for a good fit. Next steps are to match the faces together between the handle and guard. I’m thinking of adding a copper spacer. Should I? There is going to be a copper pin holding it together also.
  17. Found the edge to be about .01” for most of the edge and .025” where the convex starts. Hopefully, it’ll be fine. I used a piece of coil spring to make the punch and it worked a treat. The guard is very close to being fit up nice.
  18. Got this heat treated and ground to 120 grit. This is a very slim knife for this style, the ricasso is at about .140”. Probably going to end up as an oversized letter opener. Tomorrow I think I’m going to try and hot punch the guard. I drilled a series of holes today and am curious to try punching it out.
  19. It works!! I left the refractory to cure in a bag with a wet towel for 2 days then let it dry for another. I hooked everything up, checked for leaks, and fired it up. Ran a few short cycles to get rid of any left over moisture and then let’er rip. 5 psi seems to be a good spot to continuously run it at and ~3 psi is where the burner starts to stutter. This is one of the first lower heats. And this is after running it for ~15 minutes. The flame outside is tinged slightly with blue also. Does that mean that it’s not burning all the propane in the tank? Also, I forged a kni
  20. Is this the right consistency for the kastolite? I can clump together and bounce it in my hand a couple of times before it breaks. I was careful to add only a bit of water at a time, but it seems like it’s clumpy almost in small particles.
  21. I now have all the material apart from some plumbing. As shown, the most of the kaowool is cut and put in for sizing. Before I go further, what size front and back holes should I cut out? I stayed with a Venturi burner and know that they need good venting to prevent to much back pressure, but am unsure how big or the area needed.
  22. I’m going to stick to a horizontal forge because the interior is only going to be about 8” long. That’ll help with heat treating longer pieces more evenly. And I definitely am not going to be welding 14-18” pieces, only enough for 1 maybe 2 blades.
  23. Good point. I don't have a welder so a vertical would be annoying. And honestly I don't really anticipate doing alot of welding maybe just a wrapped hatchet or san mai here and there, not higher layer damascus. I don't have a press or power hammer to help me. As for blade sizes, I'm not planning on doing anything larger than 10" max.
  24. Just wondering if I missed something important or if someone might know of a better deal somewhere else before I order everything. Bill of Materials Black Beauty Burner + shipping --- $64.50 Plistix (w/o shipping, Wayne Coe) --- $15.00 Kast-O-Lite, 20lb (HighTempTools) --- $64.35 30 psi regulator + pressure gauge + 5ft hose(HighTempTools) --- $55.50 5ft Kaowool + shipping from HighTempTools --- $36.00 + $35.43 Total = ~$270
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