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Mike Ward

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Everything posted by Mike Ward

  1. Thanks guys. I think I'm going to stick to the black beauty burner, buying the piping and the blower will cost more and I'm on a little bit of a budget right now. I think I will be making a vertical forge at some point that is dedicated to welding and use a blown burner then.
  2. I have only used a coal forge that I built from a porch patio and it has served me very well. From a family friend, I got a literal mound of coal that has lasted me nearly a decade mostly because of intermittent use up to about 2 years ago when I got more serious about forging. Now I'm on my last two buckets of coal and would like to build a propane tank forge. I have searched through the forum and this is what I came up with. I have some questions on how much of each material I should buy. I would like the option of welding in this forge and it seems from others that have this burner that 2 of them makes this easier. What do you think? 1 or 2? What length of Kaowool should I get? Is there a cheaper supplier that you know of? Black Beauty Burner --- 2x ~$96.95 Kast-O-Lite --- High Temp Tools, 20 lb, ~$64.35 (From Wayne Coe's gas forge build, it took about 15lb to coat the forge with a thicker bottom layer. I think 20lb should give me some left over for repairs and mess ups) Plistix --- 1 pint from Wayne Coe ~$15.00 + shipping Kaowool --- High Temp Tools, ~4ft of 1" x 24", ~$38.00 Total ~= $250 This seems a bit much but this is my first gas rodeo. Basic Build Progression Cut front hole probably 4"w x 3"h and cut front lid off to put kaowool in. Is that front opening big enough for the backpressure? To put the lid back on without a welder, tabs and sheet screws in the lid and body. Cut back hole ~2.5"w x 2"h Drill holes for burner. Align the holes so that the burners are tangent to the top of the inside walls. Size 1" for 2 layers Kaowool and insert. Cut hole for the burner. Mix up the KastOLite to spec and layer it in with the bottom thicker. Cover with plastic wrap and wait to cure. Once its close, dry it out with a heatlamp. Layer of Plistix. Slowly fire up the forge with the burners. Thoughts?
  3. The guard material is going to be mild steel. As for the slot, the back side is going to be drilled halfway through with a >.25” drill bit. Flip to the top side with a 1/8”-1/4” bit and drill series of holes. File to size. The reason I oversize the back is so that the smaller drill bit has less material to go through and wander. And is easier to file to shape. I do this with hidden tang kitchen knives where I use needle files that flex and take material off where it not needed. I am also going to step down the tang from the ricasso a small amount. The half moon is a divot to put your thumb if needed. Maybe not absolutely necessary but I kinda like it. The only blocks of wood that I have that would be large enough are Bubinga, wenge, or Birdseye maple. I’m leaning towards the wenge. I am going to bed the tang in the wood with epoxy so that I can take it on and off while shaping. The guard width pictured is .75”, looking at it I think .625” would be better. Added the pin also, probably copper.
  4. Finally made my own bench in my dads boat shop. Nice and sturdy for handsanding and a view too.
  5. I’ve been concentrating on making kitchen knives for the past year or so and thought I’d try my hand at something different. And watching a lot of Kyle Royer’s videos have influenced me into making a Bowie style. Using 4.5”x1”x.25” 1084 I came up with this blade. It is 6”x1 3/8”x3/16” at the heel and not hardened yet. I need help with the guard and handle design. And this a rough idea of what I was thinking. This one is slightly different. The handle rise spot is a little bit forward and the curve is steeper. Any ideas?
  6. How did I know you’re gonna say that? To the forge! Do you angle the hammer both down the bevel face and tilt it the back of the hammer toward you to pinch the plunge line? Or just angle the hammer face down the bevel?
  7. Since I’ve done a whole lot of practice lately with kitchen style knives, I thought I would throw myself a curveball with a couple of Bowie-ish blades. Warmed up with a 5.5” petty knife, made an attempt at the 9.75” big boy and finished the day with the 6” fighter/Bowie/clip point (idk what proper classification it is). Just wanted show how I’ve been striving to get a very close forged finish with minimal grinding needed. I have a question on hammering in plunge lines: how in the bloody heck do y’all get them nice and clean off the anvil?
  8. Put the final coats of tung oil on the two handles. They’re all set for my mark and sharpening. And forged the first full tang knives in awhile.
  9. I think it was: 18 layer alternating, welded and drawn out, cut into 2, and restacked. Welded and drawn out again, then cut into 5 with .5” 1084 stock added under the outer layers. it was last August when the billet was made but I think this is how it was done.
  10. Well, this didn’t turn out to be a wip but they’re all done. By far, the most challenging project I’ve ever done. Looking at it now I’m (mostly) happy with the result, but there are things that I would go back and change if I had a time machine. So much learned and still only scratched the surface. The handles are cocobolo with copper spacers and pins. The steel is ~180-190 layers of 1084 and 15n20 with the last stack having thicker pieces of 1084 to get that bold layer.
  11. These handles are all from the same board of cocobolo. The one on the right is about two years old, the others are finished a couple of days ago. Turns into a nice chocolate color with some dark red mahogany coloring. I’ve found that leaving them in the sun for a bit darkens them up and just using them does it further. I’ve never had it go brighter orange after sanding is done though. Maybe it was because it wasn’t at a higher grit?
  12. Made yet another knife, some small hooks and a hot cut hardie. The hardie is mild with a edge of some scrap 80crv2 welded in.
  13. @Zeb Camper just presents. My dad hangs his coats and sweatshirts on a nail in the wall in his shop so I thought why not. I’m envious of you and your job, that railing looks sweet! This is everything I got on my plate right now. Top six I have to finish before January ends for my sisters wedding present. The others are just freebies I don’t know what I’m gonna do with. And it took ~8 hrs to just fit this handle up. Trying and failing to not make any mistakes.
  14. Six hooks in the morning. 2 sets of 3 with different bend. Just trying something different for presents. After lunch, forged a paring and 2 slightly different 6” chef knives. All in all, a nice day in the shop. Bit chilly though
  15. I’m actually going to that for a different project. Casting a steel Bowie for the competition and maybe if we get enough data we can bring the white iron stuff too.
  16. Ah yes, but if you get the melt right once and check with other samples, you have a better set that can last a very long time. But sending them out is really good idea, thank you. If I can, I’ll post the results at the end of the semester.
  17. Yup that’s what we learned. Our goal is to make standards 10mm thick and the last group actually achieved that with gray iron. But without any inoculation I believe. The previous groups explored the mechanical heat transfer side of making white iron. We took their devices concept and redesigned for ease of use and safety mitigation while keeping the heat transfer properties. My group is exploring the metallurgical side of making white iron by adding small elements to help the carbide formation without disrupting the overall chemistry. Next semester is going to be a lot of data collection. That’s exactly the purpose of the project. To be able to take our device to a foundry and make samples from their exact proprietary chemistry to calibrate their spectrometers.
  18. @Jerrod Miller it’s freaking awesome!! We usually pour aluminum but my Metals Castings class tries to do at least one iron pour A semester. For my senior design project, my group has to make white iron spectrometer standards to use in foundry’s to calibrate their spectrometers. Last group focused on the heat transfer side of making white iron and my group is going to focus on different element additions to either prevent graphite nucleation or promote carbide formation. This was our second pour today just testing the new apparatus we redesigned and without controlling the chemistry to much. This is a sample from Tuesday’s pour with about 1/8” of white iron achieved. The molds sit on top of copper rods to quickly conduct heat away and that all sits on a water tank.
  19. Thanks Joel! I appreciate it. Thanks! I had some scrap pieces leftover from my brief cutting board phase. The Padauk is probably going to darken to a more maroon shade like the cutting board shown. I think it’s from the same board.
  20. Thanks Gary! I didn’t notice any problems with any of the processes, only that the wear resistance was more noticeable when hand sanding and profiling for the tang shoulders should be done before heat treat if you’re using a file. Do you have any problems with thin 80crv2?
  21. Probably my best knife just because I have access to a heat treat oven. The handle is Padauk and curly maple. 80crv2 steel 7” heel to tip 1.75” at the heel ~.100” thick at the bolster area down to ~.005 before sharpening. Overall, I like it, especially the blade shape and the handle material, but I can’t figure out what is off. I think the handle needs bigger facets, they’re at 1/8” right now. What do you think?
  22. Left six are a set of random Damascus blades for a wedding gift. Right four are 1084/80crv2 kitchen knives I’m hoping to sell somehow. The chefs are all 7-7.5”.
  23. Forged this last night. ~6” chef knife, it was probably the best forging I have done yet. Just moving the material to the right spot and having it straight in the end. Really surprised me when I went to grinding how nice it was to not have to remove a lot.
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