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Mike Ward

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Everything posted by Mike Ward

  1. Spent the last few days in the shop trying to finish this one up. Longer hunter style with a wrought iron guard and curly maple handle. This is right out of the ferric chloride, apparently I had put some copper in at some point and it coated the wrought a little. Just thought it looked cool. Is there anything anyone sees wrong or odd?
  2. My dad and I spontaneously decided to go to the Mystic seaport boat show in Connecticut and it turned out to be a fantastic trip. Amazing, fantastic, mind blowing craftsmanship and art everywhere! An absolute inspiration to appreciate all that people can do with their hands and imagination. The museum has an original, fully functioning forge that does pieces for its boats and other museums also. One the reasons we went was because my dad is restoring a 1934 Dragon by Johan Anker and there was someone there that restored a 1947 Dragon several years back who we questioned. Mayflower II restoration And if you want to get an absolutely stunning piece of wood for cheap, go to a boat show. This is bird eye maple that’s 2”x5” by ~8 ft long and was less than $150. I don’t know about you, but I call that a deal. I am so happy that I went and just stunned at the craftsmanship. The 13 hour drive was completely and utterly worth it.
  3. Get a file card and brush the file every few strokes as it gets clogged up.
  4. That’s beautiful! What’s the thickness?
  5. Nothing in the shop but spent the weekend at my grandmas cottage on Otsego lake trying out my dads newest addition to his collection, a one man Laser sailboat. This thing rips right across
  6. I have an idea floating around in my head about combining the two methods. Greasing the tang, epoxying the handle together and then shaping the handle off the blade. That should help with not accidentally hitting the blade against the grinder and other damages.
  7. Get a drill either the same size as the widest part of the tang or a little bit smaller. Drill down as far as you need to go and if needed file little slots to fit the tang all the way in. Take a dowel the same size as your hole and split it in two. From there, sand the flats and size the dowels till the tang fits; you can leave a small gap for glue if you want. This method is SO much easier than drill 2 or 3 small holes and tediously needle file. I did that with the lower part of the handle and for the “bolster” piece, I split in half and filed away notches for the tang to fit in. Again bc it’s easier IMO. If you want, you can put hidden pins through the tang to help locate, I just glued them together. Also, make sure that the shoulder of the tang is seated on the handle! Check and double check to make sure. I didn’t so now there’s an ugly gap in a otherwise pretty good knife.
  8. Hey y’all, Over the weekend, I took a chef knife making class over in Detroit with Niko Nicolaides. On Saturday we forged, profiled and heat treated the knives. He showed us some of his examples and did some demoing then let us go at it. Because I have experience already doing this, I knew most of what to do but he still had some useful tips and tricks on how to move the metal to specific places. Sunday was spent grinding and finishing the handle. This is the Detroit Smith Shop where the class was hosted. Profiled I learned the most in the handle construction. He did the method of drilling a .5” hole into a block and splitting a dowel to hold the tang. I’ve never done that and while I’ve read about, I didn’t really understand before. I’m really glad I took this class, it let me get a better idea how a kitchen knife should be made with out doing it 3 mores times. Taking a class is definitely one of the best things that someone can do to learn.
  9. Had a busy day. Found out that one of the knives I’ve been working on was hard for about .25” up the bevel. Apparently, I didn’t get 85% of the blade up to heat the first time. Got a little POed and decided screw it I’ll heat treat again after it had been finished ground and the edge was about .01-.015 thousandths. Normalized twice, quenched and then clamped between two boards. Came out straight as can be with only a tiny wave on the edge and a small amount of decarb that ground out. And skates like glass now too. Love it when something that you’ve put a lot of work into already just listens and does what you want it to. Banged out this other one also And we moved my dads 2200 lb cast iron 1932/33 Dragon sailboat keel to the other barn. It’s recommended to not have your foot be under one of the rollers ...it hurts
  10. Heat treated these two, both 80crv2 I think. Straight as can be too. Made this for fun, a little short at about 3 fingers which actually feels pretty good. And then this I made a few months ago for my dad and it’s still going great! I really scored a perfect 10 with this board of cocobolo. The picture doesn’t do it justice at all.
  11. Got the wrought iron guard fitted up then ground down. And the other two are ready for heat treat.
  12. I’ve seen that done before and I’ve been meaning to try it, but the blades I’ve been making are not thick enough to do it. I did go back and watched all of your videos and I think starting with thicker stock for a bigger blade would let me not have to hit the ricasso area as much. And/or make a flatter to try.
  13. I just wanted to ask how, after forging, you get your ricasso area flat and square/parallel to each other. And how close do you call it, within a thousandth? Less? Do you use files and patience? Sandpaper and a flat surface? Disc grinders on low speed? Belt grinder? I’ve done it with my grizzly 2x72 freehand before and spent today with files working on another. Just wondering if people have ways that work for them that might work for me. Thanks
  14. Knife and smaller bottle opener were forged yesterday. Think I’m going to make a bottle opener for warmup each time.
  15. Two more boards ready for oil and a paring knife ready for finishing. The big one is 12x17” and the little on is 10x12”
  16. Thank you! I added a paring knife and they’re now quenched and tempered.
  17. Not half bad for not picking up a hammer in 5 months, me thinks. 5.5” hunter/Bowie
  18. Use sharp chisels. Also, a jigsaw blade can be helpful in creating outline grooves if the wood is liable to crack. Just hold it in your hand or glue it to a handle then carefully use the teeth to make channels and then carve out the rest slowly. And check a lot to make sure too much isnt remover!
  19. Got these finished up and razor sharp. The matching ones are for me and the other is for my dad. All are out of 80crv2 with a mustard patina. The darker woods are Wenge and the other is Cocobolo with copper pins. I finished the handles with coats of mineral oil and Howard’s Butcher Block oil. Didn’t really want to go with wipe on poly and if it’s good enough for cutting boards it should be fine for handles. I used a strip of maple to make the tang slot on the chefs knife.
  20. Little bit of “treat yo self” going on. Top one is for my dad and other two are for me. Should be finished tomorrow.
  21. Wow! Those are amazing, taking your sweet time really works. That walnut is perfect. One question though, how wide do you typically make you handles at the bolster? Looking from the side that is.
  22. @Gerald Boggs are you just providing information on the conditioner or is there something specific that you find alarming?
  23. 2 liberal coats of food grade mineral oil and then 2 more of Howard’s Butcher Block Conditioner. I used a hair dryer to warm it up a bit to get good penetration.
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