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Denny Graham

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  1. Well I appreciate ya'll helping me out last fall so here's a brief update. I manage to get back on the project after the holidays and yep, 42 HRC is a might stiff for those springs. Might even be a bit to stiff for the weight that the pair will carry. The Cyclekart won't be running till spring, but with it down on all four now, I can put some weight on it and it doesn't give very much. Now that might be ok at 50 mph, and I'm gonna mount a GoPro up front when she's running so I can see how the springs are working. I'll be using/experimenting with a homebuilt version of
  2. Well thanks for the grand welcome guys. There is a web site for Cyclekarts, it''s call the Cyclekartclub.com and at times over the past couple of years, I'll post a comment over there, but they keep taking shots at me over there because I'm to long winded, can ya tell? And......sometimes I post my personal opinion......which...... sometimes differs from the old experts over there, who don't take kindly to anyone who color's outside the lines that they've drawn. With all the work around here and the different directions that I seem to get pulled off in, the Cyclekart lo
  3. Ok, just feel that it's only polite to close this thread out since you guys so graciously offered your help. Got the little Quick-Check bounce tester a couple of days ago. I gathered a group of materials, including the springs, which were the main subject for starting this thread, and bounced the ball off of them. Polished up a small area on each sample with a scotch bright pad on the angle grinder. Some 4140 pre-hard, several old springs and my new ones, some soft 1018, some O-1 and A-2, a 154 lb forged Anvil, in other words, a pretty good selection of dif
  4. Well I certainly wouldn't argue the accuracy of this type of testing Jarrod, but...for the guy that has nothing in a small home shop they seem better than nothing. I just found a Quick-Check on ebay for fifty bucks and that's much cheaper than any set of hardness files from any of the vendors. As is reading the color for heat treat to the average guy in is home shop, a plain old bastard of a file tells me only that it's either hard or soft, not much more feed back than that to the inexperienced eye. And that was the reason I balked at treating my springs this tim
  5. Speaking of ball drop hardness testers.....does anyone have or have access to one of those "Quick-Check Hardness Tester" ball drop portable testers that J&L (now bought by MSC) used to sell?? MSC doesn't sell them any more. The unit came with a plastic sheet/chart that had the instructions and Rockwell C scale on it. I'll post a picture that I have of it, but it's so blurry I can't make out most of it. And......I can't don't have any idea what size the sheet is so I could scale it myself and reproduce it. I'd sure like to get a clear picture of one of those charts
  6. Thanks Alan. The question was asked, "what a standard leaf spring is hardened" to and that's my quest now. After doing some reading this morning, I just ordered a 6 foot length of 1 inch id. acrylic tubing and a couple of 440C hardened SS balls. I can do a drop test with several spring samples that I've got around the ship and compare the results to the springs I got back last week. At the very least, it will tell me if I'm anyway near close. I want to thank the guy here for letting me pose this question even though it's not Blade related. It's helped me
  7. Sorry Al, that link run me around like a puppy on a leash. Apparently I can't see the article without joining something and I've joined so many I can't keep track of them anymore. No where near fully understanding heat treat, but 50+ HRC is just shy of 5160's high limit of 60. I'm afraid that would make for a super rough ride.....that is until I hit a rut and the spring snapped. Does anyone have an inexpensive, sort of layman's way of testing the hardness after heat treat???? That said......I did see a 1" id tube about 6" long with a window slot milled in the side and
  8. Yes Jerrod, thru bolt and shackle. Nope Brian, using standard three point compression test used by all the testers for spring rate. They were right at the high side Al, (42 HRC) which I discussed with the metallurgist when I dropped them off. 38 to 42 was the window we settled on. Metals Technology Corp. has been in business since 1963 and we always used them back when we were in business, (machine shop/welding shop), so I trust their advice and work. I didn't bring it up but I assumed that they left them on the high side in case we needed to draw them back more
  9. Now, if ya'll will bare with me for a few more questions, not related to weaponry. "Spring Rate" is the pressure it takes to deflect a leaf spring 1". I'm not an engineer so I'm not familiar with all the technical terms like Modulus of elasticity, Bulk Modulus, Shear modulus, Poissons ratio, etc. From what I've been able to gather, the Spring Rate is determined by the alloy, length, width & thickness. That comes out to just a little over 60 lbs. from all the charts and calculators that I've run the numbers thru. They all agree within a couple of lbs from e
  10. Okey dokey, since you axed. Picked up the springs Monday morning. They came out at 41.8 to 42 HRC. Had a little warpage but I can readjust them in my hydraulic press. I haven't had a chance to test the spring rate but that's something I well be doing in the near future, just to much going on right now. Thanks again guys, Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
  11. Thanks Brian, thought about having them shoot for the high side and possibly drawing them back later if they were to stiff. But....I think the train's already left the station. I'd also read where you want to temper soon after the quench. Maybe those discussions were about tempering soon after the heat to prevent cracking while in the hardened condition? Besides....the springs are in their hands now and I should be getting a call first of the week. It's an experiment, a learning process so if this batch doesn't pan out I'll be better informed the next time ar
  12. Thanks guys. Guess I'll have to wait till next week to see what I end up with. They've got three sets. They are single leaf that carry around 100 lb. each up front, (200-250 lb. total) Jerrod. And.....used on closed street racing, dirt ovals and also off road hill climbs, sort of an all round car/kart. Tks Alan. These are prototypes and it would be kind of hard for me to compare these to others because I'm sort of a lone wolf so to speak. I don't run with the pack, in fact, most all of the pack is out on the west coast and desert south west. There is very little Cycle
  13. I suppose this is kind of ars backwards since most of the time Bladesmith's are looking to turn 5160 leaf springs into blades.......but I'm looking to turn 3/16" x 1 1/2" 5160 bar into a leaf spring. Let me explain a little. Thanks to you guys who are forging blades, these blade forums are the only place on the net that I've been able to find any real information about heat treating 5160. So I'm building these Cyclekarts and the front springs are made from the previously mentioned alloy and end up typically around 24" long. So far, all of the guys are using pre-made
  14. Thanks guys, and thanks again for helping out an outsider with his non-cutting edge project. I've got lots of other things planned for it, including some small forgings I want to make for the Cyclekarts that I'm building and heat treating tooling for the shop. Now......to fire and fill it all up and see how good of a "heat treater" I am. Hope I don't burn down the barn!!!!! Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
  15. Finely got the quench tank finished. Took your advice and put a lid on it. Took longer to do that than it did to build the tank and stand. It's big enough to do a sword in if I ever decided to make one. Thanks for the help. Denny Graham Sandwich, IL
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