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  1. I'm glad to hear the Dragon's blood recipe held up well, considering that was one of the goals I had in mind while researching finishes. I really believe the quality of ingredients is important here. The flip side is a little goes a long way. I'd still like to eventually get a hold of some lead napthanate and see how it differs as a drier.
  2. Mark, according to Jeff's calibrated eye the spark test was around 1.3% or so. Direct reduction, charcoal as the carbon source, and a dash of marble dust, Jeff mixed it up per his typical ratio. This ore has not been analysed yet. I figure I'll get a chunk of the next couple pucks analyzed, since we had to kill this one to try and save it. Jan, runaway.. can't do that this smelting and wootz infection has been systemic and simmering for years. Being an overly analytical introvert, means that if I'm posting about progress online there is probably no hope for me. Besides, Ric has one heck of a head start, I gotta close the gap ;-) -Dietrich
  3. I've made a couple things with it (mostly test pieces so far) and like what I've seen. Nice fine grain on it. IIRC I gave it a 5+ min soak at temp in the kiln. I want to run some tests to see if cryo helps it or not (possibly in january when I get the dewar filed). Here is a PNG of a german spec sheet:
  4. This is the puck of steel made Saturday night at the Axe-n Saxe in. It was smelted from columbia river ore I brought down. There was however a crucible failure that drained the slag near the end of the run. Aluminium tig rod was applied in an attempt to kill the steel. So it has been sitting on my desk taunting me since I got back. I finally got caught up on orders and finished some house projects, and was able to fire up the forge and try working it. It started moving pretty well but then started cracking and breaking apart. Not full on crumble but more like how wrought will start to come apart if worked too cold. I tried working peices at different temperatures hotter/colder, larger hammer/smaller hammer. Didn't seem to make much difference the steel would move and then at some point a a crack would form propagate and that would be that. It wasn't like red short where you hit it and get instant cheese curd. Looking at the big chunk there are a lot of voids in the puck: At this point my theory [and I could be wrong as this is the first bit of "home smelted" steel I've worked with] is that the cracks are starting at the voids and propagating from there. Here is a shot of all the pieces: This chunk I spent the most time working. It seemed to be moving just fine, then... cracks. So I took one of the pieces, ground a window, and etched it with ferric to take a look at it. And a closeup [yea I know a bad photo.. but considering I took it with my cell phone.. ] I've spent a bunch of time looking at it under a 4x loupe and the stereo microscope I got for engraving [i really need to sit down and practice engraving... so many skills to learn so little time]. It is interesting to see how the surface appeearance changes from direct lighting to low angle lighting. However having only seen pictures of micrographs I have very little data to compare it to. So any thought from those with more experience than me? As it stands I've got 4 #6 crucibles sitting in the closet behind me, 400+# of ore out in the shed and the furnace is almost built, so I think this one is going to get remelted. Now I just need to be disciplined about taking notes and not just trying to keep it all in my brain. -Dietrich
  5. Man I really need to get out there at some point..
  6. That last ingot turned out nice. The columbia river ingot hasn't been forged out yet. I haven't even had a chance to fire up the forge as I've been working on filling some stainless kitchen knife orders. I did manage to find the time to order in some crucibles. That took a little longer as I decided to see what the local foundry supply company coud do price wise. Don't worry though I'll make sure to post pictures as it gets turned into a knife.
  7. Hilton Homewood suits Oakland waterfront, also .... -Dietrich
  8. looking a little cleaner and more organized than the last time I saw your shop
  9. One thing to keep in mind is that there are 2 different types of setups. There is the DC motor and controller like yours, however many of the newer ones are actually 3 phase AC motors and controllers. Both sets run off single phase 120 or 240. It is possible that the ones you have seen that "run faster" are actually 3 phase.
  10. Funds sent.. the designs look great.
  11. Based on the video and a reference on the Beaumont site I have assumed it is a KBAC-24d or 27d. OF course if the assumption is wrong then this information is not correct. However going on that assumption I downloaded a user manual as I noticed in the video that one of the LED lights was indicating a fault. The Status light appears to be indicating a fault. It is hard to tell but it appears to be a quick flash red to yellow. This would indicate per the manual an under voltage condition. I'm guessing that your voltage in your shop is drooping under load below the threshold voltage the controller expects to see. Could be that the wiring isn't large enough out to your shop or the grid is providing you marginal voltage. Of course I could be totally wrong as it is hard to see exactly what the LED is doing during the fault condition and I might have made an incorrect leap to the VFD manufacturer and model.
  12. [edited to reduce image size] So speaking of Blowers.. I was at the big box home impreovement store today and saw this: According to the box it is a blower and a "mulching" vacuum And looky here.. an actual metal impeller : IIRC just over $60 on clearance.. Picked one up.. might be a while before I get around to trying it out.. but seemed worth giving a try.. at teh very least less leaf raking.
  13. So the specs on the 1080+ from AKS is dead on for 80CrV2. I picked up a bit from AKS a while back and have made a couple of things from it. So far I like it. Aldo mentioned at blade that he was going to start carrying 80CrV2. I'm looking forward to seeing what sizes Aldo starts stocking.
  14. The one thing I'd add is if you are using a hand hammer.. use a heavy hammer. I've got an 8lb sledge head I turned into a short handled rounding hammer. I find it is really useful for getting the core to move.
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