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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Vern Wimmer

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Vern Wimmer last won the day on February 3

Vern Wimmer had the most liked content!

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About Vern Wimmer

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Well outside of Gold Beach Oregon.
  • Interests
    Bladesmithing & knifemaking.(of course)
    Collecting, repairin and restoring Coleman stoves and.lanterns

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  1. Starting a smithy...

    I'm going to put something out there that I think some overlook. I am a big fan of the two-wheel bench grinders. I have several. My Grandfathers is a big old industrial that I started on. It has a hard wheel on one side for profiling and a wire wheel on the other which is great for removing scale. Both of these functions done on the bench grinder save a lot of wear on the disposable belts of a belt grinder. The stones and wire wheels last a long, long time. I have a couple of others, on one I used a dressing wheel to shape the stone to a convex profile to get into tighter places profiling. They are not a substitute for a belt grinder but I got both my "extra" ones on sale seperately for less than the cost of a dozen mid-quality belts and they will do a whole lot more profiling. Add the wire wheel to one side and they will out last several dozen belts for scale removal.
  2. Finally, a Knife For Me

    Very nice. I think we need pinned thread (if there isn't one I missed) on "The knife I made formy self/ my self made EDC"
  3. Knifemaker Interview Series, a biography workshop

    It's a great idea and a great thread. It is one of those special things that everyone should read and think about if they want to be "well rounded". So many different stories, techniques, approaches, motivations, perspectives.
  4. Suggested list of belts for new knife makers?

    Words like "aformentioned" shouldn't be dealt with on Mondays.
  5. Knifemaker Interview Series, a biography workshop

    He 's still looking for a round tuit, then he'll be here.
  6. Unknown Mark on a Friend's Knife

    He was pressure testing the actions for custom builds. I saw a couple he did and had the chance to buy them but passed. As I remember one was a .257 Roberts.
  7. Unknown Mark on a Friend's Knife

    As I recall they also left off that funky dustcover that was rather iconic. Funny think about the Arisaka...there was a rifle barrel maker, P.O. Ackley, who tested all kinds of bolt action rifles with heavy overloads and despite the Arisaka's over all crudeness, compared to a Springfield or Mauser 98, it tested out the strongest in several comparison trials.
  8. Unknown Mark on a Friend's Knife

    I'd hazzard a guess that it is an Enfield bayonet madeat the Ishapore arsenal What looks like a grain pattern is likely coarse grinding marks. If yo look closely at the area around the stamped marks you will see grinding marks at a right angle to the blade edge.
  9. Starting a smithy...

    I take a try at sorting this out Forges. Do not automatically assume a blown forge is "more economical". Construction and tuning of the burner(s), the forge body, and its efficiency, all have a great effect on how "economical" the forge is. IMO if you are serious about economic efficiency I would forget the bricks. Again IMO a metal shell, kaowool or simiar with a refractory coating will be the most efficient to run, again assuming good design and construction. I will caveat the "bricks" comment by adding a trade-off may be needed if you plan on forge welding. It might be a good choice to put a hard brick, not soft, bottom in the forge to avoid the flux damage. You would have to balance the overall interior size vs insulation, vs burner output to try to hit a good, efficient balance. Google search "forge build site:bladesmithsforum" For detailed info The same search for "grinders" will yeild a ton of info. Between home build and reliable brands the only constant I have to offer is "go with a 2X72 because of availability and variety and more work per belt as opposed to smaller belts. If you are headed towards bladesmithing/knifemaking I suggest reading the "So, you want to make a knife" thread pinned at the top of this section. ETA: if you are going toward forge welded,pattern welded, damascus, then strongly consider a power hammer.
  10. Giant circular saw blade

    I've done Ok, with saw blades like that. I used to make a small test blade by working it cold, stock removal, to see if it was neccessary to even HT. I stopped testing and just went through the whole mystery/HT cycle with all, after I understood HT'ing better.
  11. Anvil on Craigslist

    So am I. I have an improvised my Grandfather used and a Horror Fright ASO. Still.......... I'd pass on that one.
  12. Anvil on Craigslist

    I'm not that picky but I'd have to be gawdawful desperate for something to hammer on to make that look like a good idea. The horn looks like the best part. All of the edges aren't just chipped they are broken and what's left isn't flat. Looks like the remaining face was smacked with a sledge. Any price they asked for it would be money better saved for another anvil IMO.
  13. Welding Machine?

    Welding by any method is not like using a hot glue gun. Any method is "skilled". As it relates to knifemaking, beyond forge welding it is sort of "optional" depending on method. It is probably best to firmly, specifically, decide "Why?" And "What?" you need to weld and why that will help you make a knife to decide what type of equipment you need and you should first find someone to teach you a bit, hands on. If you are considering it for building a forge there are ways around that, flanges bolts etc. Financially, by the time you get the equipment, screw up a few things climbing the learning curve, use wire, sticks, and/or gas, paying a welder to do it, or buying a forge might look like it would have been a good idea
  14. Quench oil temperature question

    Haveto agree with Zeb, Al and Joel on all points and add that you are working with mystery steel. That makes decalescece the important constant. How long are you holding it in the quench on the first dunk ?