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Gerhard Gerber

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Gerhard Gerber last won the day on January 8

Gerhard Gerber had the most liked content!

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About Gerhard Gerber

  • Birthday 05/21/1975

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  • Location
    Windhoek, Namibia
  • Interests
    Knife making, blade smithing, fly & general fishing, long distance hikes, bonsai.

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  1. .......Makes me feel like the knuckle-dragging bush ape of the knife making world! Just amazing Owen!
  2. Heat treated the two 1070 test blades and a 14C28N fork last night. Both blades stayed straight, with and without bevels, but somehow the blank without bevels feels harder, might just be some decarb. I know I shouldn't add variables, but I couldn't help myself.... Saw a trick on some random video, wrapped the blade in binding wire in a diamond pattern and used those as a guide for my clay alternative. .....Suspect I got some stonking hamons One temper cycle last night, will do another after work and a quick etch.
  3. Thank you Brian, that's all I needed to know........I recently bought 10L of farm-fresh Canola oil, always heat it up to 120/130 (60C)
  4. Just stunning Ross, well done!
  5. From what I've been able to google up the recommended temperature for 1070 is 1450F-1525F or 788C-830C in my language My steel is 40mm and 60mm wide strips cut from 3mm sheets, fully annealed if I have to guess. First question, is there any advantage to normalizing the blades? Then that 50C window, all I can imagine is maybe thinner steel lower temperature?
  6. It's good for making divots on the bottom of my new plank It was a tight fit so I had to hammer it on with a rubber mallet and work it in a bit......realized soon after the tightening screw was a complete waste of time
  7. I found this clamp, bought a nice new plank and screwed it on there, realized very quickly it will need to move......so I bird-shit welded this contraption together. Need to make a plan with the little foot and it's adjustment, but so far so good. Also made two 2/3 sized blades of the ones I need to make to test the 1070's behavior during heat treat, one with bevels, one without so I can test if post-HT grinding is viable (for me)
  8. I guess I can somewhat reassure you with one of my own experiences.... I made two knives from 4mm spring steel and the handle shape was based on the Kershaw Skyline, small thin knives with very ergonomic handle with a 50/50 choil. On the one knife I made the narrow section of micarta at the ricasso area a bit too long, and due to the very flexible blade the micarta let go from the steel. I was extremely lucky to even notice it, decided it had to be fixed and that was the start of a struggle.... First plan was to hammer out the pins, reshape and glue up again with new pins, I ended up sawing the micarta apart and had to do the lot over. My conclusion was the knife could have stayed like that, the only negative being the possibility of rust in that gap. True enough these pins were all the way through, but not peened. Also have to qualify that the 24-hour epoxy I use makes a very strong bond with micarta, I would not trust the bond on wood quite that much.....speaking from limited experience with wood.
  9. What he said Going by those photos I suspect your tip should be okay, but that last part of the edge might not be hardened. Maybe normalize a few times and try again? Just a WAG, but maybe get a longer container for your oil, maybe the handle banging against the edge of the container prevents the rear part of the blade going deep enough in the oil?
  10. Thank you all. I cut out the blanks last night, 2 blades 20cm (7.8") long. I would've liked to go for an interesting hamon with clay instead of just a boring edge quench, but I'm scared either option would just increase the chance of a warp. Considering the advice here I'm going to make a practice blades first, one just profiled and another with the bevel ground in, see what happens,
  11. I use the edge of a halfround file to put several notches all over my pins, same idea as Garry, a mechanical lock caused by the glue. With the right glue and some penetration into the handle material I can assure you it's very strong.
  12. Thinking about it I realised the plates will keep the oil away from the blade. Thanks Alan....this is going to be fun
  13. I'm still missing a few things to start with the folders, so I need to pay a debt and make a present, two chef's knives in 3mm 1070, Don't know the steel and very worried about warps, it's thin and warped already from being cut in strips (I assume) Despite some general advice here I'm not comfortable doing all the grinding post-HT. First thought is plate quench, but I'm not sure that would be quick enough for 1070, then I had the thought of putting my plates in oil, blade goes in and the second plate follow as quickly as possible. The negative is no way to get a hamon using this "method" My ideas are often not that smart, so please shoot it full of holes and feel free with alternative suggestions.
  14. Colour blind guy in one of the recent FiF episodes used this trick.
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