Gerhard Gerber

This project has stalled a bit, mostly because I'm unsure about the measurements for the forge body. I considered C(ardboard)AD but I don't have big enough pieces Made a scale drawing and I think I have my answer, but I'm unsure about a critical point - I should have enough kao wool to put a double layer in, is that advisable? My dimension are 400x400mm (15,7"), top and one side is 250mm (11.8") with a 45deg section connecting then, this is where the burner fits. Close as I can determine from my "scale" drawing the 45deg part will be 140mm(5,5") that needs to accept the burner which is 75mm (3") wide. As far as I can estimate from my drawing the 45deg section (with double layers) should be almost the same width as the burner. Inside dimensions ignoring the 45deg bit should be 240x240mm (9,4"x9,4"), 600mm (23.6") deep. Does this sound okay? I recently watch a video by Valhalla Ironworks, "Why your gas forge sucks". Very insightful, and my main take-away was those small uninsulated parts of the forge are your worst enemy. I can't think of an easy way to insulate the front and back, so my idea was to cut the openings the same size as the interior cavity. Doors front & back, proper firebricks at the back and fireplace bricks at the front. Other option would be smaller doors and using my non-existent gynaecological skills to fit insulation after the front and back are welded in place.

Very neat result Alan

Easiest for me is to drill in that corner then work down the tang and ricasso/blade till everything is level leaving only the radius in the corner. Even a tiny drill bit will give you more than enough relief.

I watched a video by a South African maker who does a lot of straight razors, by necessity he uses water but I hesitate to call it a mister, more a dripper in his case. Can't imagine the mess that would cause without a good catch system, something I don't have space, time, money or energy for.

As mentioned my drill bit has drilled several holes in ceramic bonsai pots. Drill was on hammer setting, going by the "dust" I could see coming away in the water high speed was the way to go, I tried going slow and that didn't go anywhere. Have to admit not what I expected, might give non-hammer and very slow a try. Sheath is done so this weekend I want to try and finish the stand.

Mixed feelings on this subject...... Recently inspected a cleaver doing long term testing at a butchery, handle is a local wood and it seems to be holding up great. I have a little paring knife with hidden tang and book marked Ebony scales, I severely mistreated this knife in my own kitchen, and eventually it started splitting on the glue line. The level of abuse would mean this is not a warranty claim if I'd sold the knife, and as far as function is concerned I squirted some superglue in the crack and closed it up in the vice. Going strong. Then there's the Tramontina bait knives we grew up with, no idea what wood they use(d) but it cracked and warped, for the most part still did their job until the knife was completely done. At the last market I attended I was packing out my knives, wiping down the blade on a big chefs knife I heard a "tick" noise like something cracking of glue letting go. Handle is a micarta bolster, Camelthorn spacer cross grain, then Rosewood with the pin securing it to the tang. I checked that handle under magnification and couldn't find a crack. The Rosewood is dependable, the micarta bulletproof so I'm not too worried, but still not a good feeling.

My first mentor preached freehand only, and I believe it's a necessary skill. I've never felt the urge to use the normal type of grinding jig, and my work rests aren't suited I believe, but I feel my skills have regressed from where they were. Maybe a physical issue, or simply lack of practice, but I feel I need help because I'm struggling with symmetry between left and right hand. What gets me is the problem seems to be when my right hand is supporting the blade, left hand is a tool in that situation, right hand stupid and useless.

I noticed that, but didn't consider it, you have a point. Perhaps rough grind with the jig and freehand for the post-HT grind. Maybe a finder on the blade in front of the bearing to keep you honest with the heat?

https://youtu.be/VEVmXViW34c Algorithm sent this video my way over the weekend. The machinist that trimmed my contact wheel needs work, and the mounts on my new grinder makes this easy to fit, I really like the look of this

That is truly unique and special, never seen a handle like that, can't recall ever seeing that cut-out pimping on a chef's knife, and the hamon is spectacular! Where do you get inspiration like that? I want to push myself to try new things and pick up new skills, but it feels like I borrow ideas and then end up with something duller because i value practicality over artistry. On a fly fishing forum I used to frequent they always discussed Poets vs. Engineers, feel like an engineer vir a poet screaming to come out

Some day when I'm all grown up I want to pull a blade like that out of the etch, very cool!

The machinist told me there's another business close by that rebuilds rubber mounts for vehicles, they should be able to help when the remaining padding fails. Fortunately I still have the wheel on the new grinder with plenty life in it, still not running though.....

Tomorrow is Finkenstein Bush Market 8am-1pm, then my VFD cabinet needs a few extra cable glands and the new VFD mounted, hopefully the new grinder will be running by the end of the day. I managed to get DB9 (old serial) connectors to connect the control panel to the VFD relatively easy, but the only cable I have easy access to is UTP LAN cable which is 8 core. Not sure if all the pins are used, but I'm one wire away from covering all the bases. STP would solve the problem with the additional earth wire, don't have any

Arise necro thread! I couldn't get decent finish on this blade to save my life, so I resorted to the angle grinder with a flap disk and gave it a weak flint-knapped finish. Slapped a Kiaat handle on it and did some silly-bugger tests to check durability. A friend of mine extended his business and opened a butchery and bottle store, so I took the cleaver to Olavi the butcher for some real world testing. The manager sent me some video of them taking apart a sheep carcass, quite impressive. After the testing was done I couldn't get it over my heart to take his toys away, so I donated the cleaver I dropped by to restock about a week ago, saw Olavi busy in the butchery and asked to see the cleaver. There was a tiny piece of raw meat stuck to the front of the handle, so no doubt it still sees regular use. It's still very sharp, few small chips and edge damage, but all things considered I was amazed. You couldn't wipe the smile off Olavi's face with a baseball bat. I cut 4 blanks a while ago that will be turned into high performance meat processors some or other year, they won't be pretty, but they will be expensive.

I was chatting to a colleague last week and she mentioned she'd bought her girlfriend a full face mask on aliexpress, waited quite a while, but they were so impressed she ordered one for herself, she does woodwork. Fellow maker ordered bolts with quick release handles so he doesn't need to use a spanner to change attachments on his new grinder, I bought the same grinder and have the same need. Locally two of those cost 700 monopoly bucks, he got four for 180 from overseas. I might be stupid, and many other things, but I can't get myself to order from there. Apart from the occasional risk of not receiving orders, I prefer to buy and support local, or live without. I'll just get a dedicated spanner for the new grinder