Jump to content

Connor Lyons

Members
  • Content Count

    26
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

Connor Lyons last won the day on January 9

Connor Lyons had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About Connor Lyons

  • Birthday 02/05/1992

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Colorado

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. really like that blade shape, you've definitely got an eye for good design.
  2. What a score on the 35 dollar kiln! As far as the PID goes, if you're not having any luck with getting it to read over 999, id recommend swapping it for a Mypin TA-4 SSR PID. I have it on the oven I built and it will read out four digits. It also has a pretty handy auto tuning feature, which i've found to be pretty useful for switching between quenching temps and tempering temps. I think it was 18 bucks or so on amazon.
  3. Pretty slick little scribe! Could you describe a bit how you calibrate/adjust these to match the centers of the various thicknesses? With the scribes ive made that has been the most challenging part, it takes a good while of fumbling around for me to get it close.
  4. I got one as a birthday gift a few years back and I'm pretty impressed with it actually. I was initially skeptical as it seemed sorta gimmicky but its certainly been very useful for me.
  5. So after quite a long while of slow progress, I plugged in my HT oven last night and nothing blew up in my face! In fact, she glows hot and beautiful just as intended. Ultimately stoked! I still need to add some additional kaowool insulation on the door as well as a proper latch. And make a removable cover plate to go over the heater connections outside the control box. It runs on regular old 120v household outlet with a 20amp breaker. There are 2 heating coils in parallel with a combined measured resistance of 6.2 ohms. That comes out to 19.4 amps on paper, which had me worried I would blow the breaker. But the heating coils actual resistance increases as they heat up, so I suspect it actually draws a bit less. So far I've only run it for about 40 minutes, but it made it up to 1800 deg.F without issue in that time! I bought the bricks, thermocouple, high temp mortar, and coils at Seattle pottery supply, just a few minutes from my house. They can make custom heating coils from kanthal wire to any resistance and size specs you need there, but mine they had on hand and premade as spare parts for the little 120v kilns they sell there. Super convenient! The kiln expert there was super helpful too. The PID controller and SSR I got off Amazon. I used Dan Comeau's website as my bible for building this thing, and I cannot stress enough how amazingly useful it was! He has all the info you need to build one of these and some really useful calculators and tools to make it easy for even a dummy like me! If you want to build a HT oven, definitely check it out: http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/electric-forge.html?m=1 As you can see mine is super beefy and covered in sheet metal, but I made it keeping in mind the fact that I'll be moving in June and will need it to survive being lugged around to my new shop. I think all in all I have about 400-500 bucks invested in this thing, but I'm sure it could be done for much less depending on what you have lying around. I bought damn near every piece of this specifically for this project. I won't be able to put it to use for another week or so, but I'll be back with an update when I do and when I get the final bits sorted out.
  6. Ahhh I see what you mean now. I have not tried that but I'll definitely give it a shot on my next one!
  7. Yes I grind the edge after HT starting with what I'd guess is somewhere around a 320-400 grit belt on the WorkSharp. I suppose if 400°f is sufficient for a temper that would point more towards my sharpening technique.
  8. So after a couple years of working with 1084 I feel like I've dialed in my HT method reasonably well, at least normalizing and quenching. But I have been getting somewhat inconsistent results with how sharp I've been getting them, which makes me wonder if I should adjust how much of a temper I give them. I primarily like to make small edc type knives with maybe only 2" or so of actual cutting edge. So my thinking is that I can afford to have a somewhat harder blade than if it were say a 6" blade, because it's likely not going to be used with nearly as much force as a bigger knife, so therefore a catastrophic failure or chipping due to excessive brittleness is less likely. So my first question here is: is that a reasonable assumption? Or is that wacky nonsense I made up? The reason I want an extra hard blade in the first place is because I'm also going for maximum edge hold, just cause I'd rather be sharpening a brand new knife for the first time rather than keeping up an old one! So after quenching, I usually only give the lil suckers a one hour temper @ 420 F or so and leave it at that. So what I'm left with seems to be an obnoxiously hard blade, but that's what (I think) I want. So once I've got them all finished up and put on edge on the little fellas, this is where things get somewhat wonky. About half of my blades come out razor sharp after moving through three grits to the finest finish belt available for my little WorkSharp belt grinder doo-dad. Sharp enough to push cut through thin paper and shave the hair off my arm. The other half of my blades come out pretty dang sharp, and can slice paper pretty well, but not shaving sharp. Im also pretty dang meticulous about maintaining a final edge thickness of between .015" and .020", so I'm thinking that shouldn't account for too much of a difference in sharpness. So do I just need better sharpening equipment? Must I finally spend the cash on a quality set of diamond stones or the like? What I'm most curious about is the magnification required to actually see the difference between a differently sharpened edges. Is there anyone that has used some type of microscope or other magnification to examine their edges? I mostly just think it would be a nifty way of understanding what's going on with a truly sharp blade. Anyways, thanks for any suggestions or input you may have!
  9. Wow. Thats my new favorite bowie. This knife is officially on my list of truly inspirational pieces
  10. Good info here. I'd love to know more about how files are classified, its much more complicated than i would expect.
  11. A real beauty you've got there. Looks like we've both got some work to finish up before christmas. Yep I certainly won't be using galvanized. Got some schedule 40 lying around the pumphouse that I'll give a good squashing to before I weld on a cap.
  12. Yeah ive attempted to soak some blades before by fiddling around with my regulator and choke on my venturi burner, but without any way to read temp it was kind of futile. Would this same thermocouple be appropriate for use in an electric heat treating oven if I were to eventually build one you think?
  13. Sweet, I've got access to plenty of scrap pieces of steel pipe at work, I'll weld one up tonight!
  14. Awesome, I was just wondering about baffle pipes and thermocouples. Definitely going to order a thermocouple and a reader today, but i still don't exactly know what a baffle pipe is? I'll have to use that handy search function...
×
×
  • Create New...