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RyanMac

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About RyanMac

  • Birthday 10/02/1983

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    O'fallon MO

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  1. That's what I was thinking about doing. Did you use the hard fire bricks or the softer bricks?
  2. That's what I was going to do but then I got to thinking of floor gets eaten up by flux or general use of I went fire brick floor I could just lift bricks out and throw some new in. If I go with castable floor then I would have to mix the cement patch the holes and then let it sit and harden.
  3. I am going to apologize first. I am sure you all are tired of forge build questions and this question has probably been answered before but here goes. I am building a new propane tank forge yo replace the small paint can forge I have now. I am using 2" insulating blanket coated in itc 100 or something similar. I was going to make a flat floor out of some kind of refractory mortar level with the openings in forge so I would have a nice floor to set my metal on when heating. But I have started leaning toward a firebrick floor to make it easily replaceable in case the floor ever takes damage
  4. Quenched it in some vegetable oil. It definitely got harder. Can really tell a difference between blade and handle when I test it with a file. I sharpened it today enough to shave my arm then tried chopping some wood I had laying around and it seemed to hold the edge. Didn't seem to dull at all. It will still shave the hair on my arm and I didn't see any kind of damage at all. Might try some more intense tests with some harder wood or something else instead of the soft 2x4 I used.
  5. Alright mostly finished with my first knife. Overworked the blade area a bit and have some hammer marks that I can't sand out but overall I think it turned out fairly well for my 1st time forging anything... heat treat seemed to do alright it definitely hardened up. I don't have a way to test how hard it is but a file skates over blade. Was worried because I have read wrenches don't always harden that well. Put an edge on it this morning and so far holds it pretty well. Haven't tried any major destructive tests but hammering into some 2x4s I have laying around didn't dull the edge at all. Migh
  6. Thanks for the advice on that. I will have to make a trip to my metal supplier next time I have some cash to spend.
  7. I think tonight I am going to attempt to use one of the sway bars to start making some tongs. The vice grips and channel locks aren't cutting it lol.
  8. Unfortunately it does not have a hardie hole. Its a pretty shallow round hole guessing pritchel hole. If I can drill it deeper i could probably make some round shanked tools that would probably work fairly well.
  9. That is best explanation of heat treat process I have seen yet. Easy to understand and right to the point not having to read pages of filler material to get a little info. Would you preheat the oil or use room temp? I have heard both ways.
  10. I have 2 sway bars I have been sitting on both are front 1 from a Subaru a I want to say the other was from a hyundai... both are solid sway bars both just under an inch thick so I figured to just mess around and get a feel for it they would be an ok place to start. Really curious about heat treating the wrench knife I was making though. If it is something that won't harden at all it will make a nice letter opener or display piece if nothing else.
  11. I am going to apologize first because I'm sure it's been asked but couldn't find much when I searched. I am very new to forging. I have wanted to get into the craft for a long time. My wife bought me a cheap forge made from a paint can for my birthday. It just uses one of the small propane fat torch style burners. It works fairly well. She wouldn't let me get the bigger forge because go cheap until I figure out if I'm going to stick with the hobby. She keeps me from being stupid and going "all out" and spending way too much on anything I decide to try lol. My question is, doe
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