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Ross Vosloo

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Everything posted by Ross Vosloo

  1. same boat as you, but isnt LPG just propane anyway? "Liquefied petroleum gas or liquid petroleum gas (LPG or LP gas), also referred to as simply propane or butane, are flammable mixtures of hydrocarbon gases used as fuel in heating appliances, cooking equipment, and vehicles." thats pulled straight from wiki. ok great thanks. how can you tell its a venturi? sorry for the dumb questions, but like Gerhard above, i live in a part of the world where you have to find something bc you cant buy it
  2. so the burner is just a simple, almost, stove burner that you cut up?
  3. i hear your pain Gerhard... Zim is no picnic for getting stuff into. Our taxes range upwards of 100% import duty, depending on what the item is. an interesting point. my father was a PH in south africa in the late 70s and early 80s, and he had a number of knives and guns gifted to him. the buck he still caries to this day was one of knife these. its how he got his remington 1100 shotgun too.
  4. ja, the equations show the migration of carbon. the Ni doesnt move, at least so far as i can understand. im new to all this, but im big into doing my homework
  5. i read that book on metallurgy that was posted here on this forum, the one by Verhoeven, and in it he makes an interesting point: "The alternating layers in a pattern welded Damascus blade are spaced at distances on the order of 50-100 microns (2-4 mils). Blacksmiths often assume that if one of the original layers is a high carbon steel and the other a low carbon steel the final blade will consist of high and low carbon layers. Suppose the forging is being done at 2100 oF, a typical value. Figure 7.4(a) shows that the value of D is 150 microns squared per second and Equation 7.1
  6. i know the recommended method is to get known steel, but if that is not an option to you, as it isnt to me, then reclaimed steel is a viable option. ive made a couple of knives from some an old saw blade, it must be at least 2 feet in diameter. non carbide tips. i cleaned off the surface rust and took a file to it and it skated right off the bat. so the knives ive made out of it so far i havent even heat treated. i just did some stock removal, careful not to heat and lose the hardening. they are plenty tough, take a hell of a beating and retain their edge pretty well. only issue i have w
  7. Thanks for your observations. You are right, it did start to stick a bit with the paper after the wacking. But it still shaved hair really easily. In fact, I have found I can get a knife to shave pretty easy, but that same knife doesn’t cut as cleanly through paper as I would have thought.
  8. So what is the “normal” grind used for the test?
  9. ok great, thanks for the info. so, in laymans terms, a scandi grind is a partial FLAT grind that goes to zero edge, a sabre grind is also a partial grind bu can be convex or have have a secondary bevel and a FF is a full flat that has a secondary bevel ? heres a dumb question, which edge can you get the sharpest? and heres an update on these two knives FINSHED so, i used the micarta on the FF and then went with a wrap on the sabre. so, what have i learned from these first two? 1. knife making is a lot of fun. 2. the old saw blade i used for ste
  10. scandi and sabre are more or less the same thing, correct?
  11. but in practice, dont we all put micro bevels on blades? i have been doing that since i was first given my own gatco set and taught to sharpen my knives at age 7. or is the case that people dont use a micro bevel? still new to what the norms are
  12. thats where im at right now. screws are just locators for now. will get the scales down to size, then final sand and finish on the blade, then epoxy and pin.
  13. oh ja, a file is great. the knife this micarta will go on, the FF, was filed entirely by hand file, and it looks awesome, even before i have finish sanded it. i love how exact you can be with the file, its just very hard work yes, this was the plastic bag filled with small 20x20mm squares then epoxy into the mix. my next batch im planning (no3) will be a layered one. i think the layer kind will be more uniform as the bag way leaves a bit of space which the epoxy then fills up.
  14. yes, that is the plan, just when i get a chance to do so, as its a long process filing this steel down. ja, im quite liking how its come out, and for a first try i think i did ok. i have another batch in the press ATM where i doubled the amount of material
  15. as far as purpose goes, these are my first forays into the knife making world, so the purpose is just to be a knife. i will be very very happy if i get can a wicked edge on them. hence, the purpose for the FF was because that was the first one and i used a jig which i made to get everything true. the sabre came about because sitting for 6 hours with a file was a lot of work and i wanted to experiment with an angle grinder to see if i could get a good looking bevel much quicker. and just to keep everyone up to date, here is my current progress on these knives. i had a go at ma
  16. thats how i put the sabre in, with an angle grinder. still refining the way i use it. no bench sander or even grinder yet, so have to work the best with what i got. the nighthawk is a very nice looking blade. shame you never got yours out before em
  17. ok, thanks for the info. is it just me though, or does the sabre grind kind of look a bit cooler than the full flat? or is that just me being a noob?
  18. not sure my terminology is right, but thought i would share my work in progress with stock removal knives. bare in mind these are my first attempts at knife making the first was ground in with a 4" angle grinder. the second was hand filed in with a file jig. thoughts and opinions are welcome. my current thinking is that the partial bevel will make a better chopper/work knife and the full bevel will make a much sharper blade.
  19. thanks for that. im the kind of guy who never goes into anything blind. ive read a whole bunch of books and watched a ton of different channels on youtube to try and get as much knowledge together as i can. i also know from experience that actually asking people who have the knowledge goes a long way to, hence asking here on this forum. thanks to all for your advise.
  20. thanks for that, will give it a try and bare in mind with all future steels. got it. thanks
  21. heard of that trick. another thing i read was to oil quench just as the steel starts to lose its glow.
  22. thanks guys, will bare these sources in mind. always happy to tear apart a landy problem im worried about with the anneal is getting it to cool slow enough. or is that not really an issue?
  23. hwzt Gerhard Thanks for the info. i thought of annealing it as well, but then with the file doing an ok job thought i would be ok. looks like i will have to heat treat either way. in your experience, are there any steels that you salvage that have a brighter or duller color to them? am aiming to eventually try to forge some damascus and im trying to forward plan what steels will give me the best results. steels that i can find that is. danke for your help
  24. Hi All, first time posting up here. So i have a couple of really old circular saw blades, and yes, i can hear everyone saying "Just start with steel you know" But heres the thing, I live in Zimbabwe. There is no access locally to ANY type of tool steel. if you want a workable steel here, you HAVE to salvage it. Im still new to this, but im having a lot of fun and hope to get good enough to justify spending money on importing steel, but until then, i need to keep the expenses down. So the saw blades i have are pretty darn hard. After cutting out my blanks, the file just sk
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