LANNY STIVERS McLaughlin

To all who replied to my posting on quenching oil, my many, many thanks. As a novice blade smith, I REALLY value the education. I did discover that canola oil beats olive oil because canola has a higher flash point thus making it conduct heat more evenly before catching fire. FYI I am an engineer familiar with working metals, but my experience is with precision heat treating ovens and milling machines. Uhhh... Not much of that applies to hand making blades with fire and hammer. But, the old fashion way is a lot more fun. Novice I may be, but at 72 years old I want no longer to look at a calculator. Pencil and paper is just fine. Shooting from the hip with no calculations is even better. OR just heat and hammer. Bought the giant economy size canola oil from CosCo Thanks again all for your help. Got a lot more questions to ask soon. Lanny S (Mac) McLaughlin - the Irish Viking

I am a newbe to forging. Up until know I have been using stock rolled/machined steel ( O 1) by stock removal and quenched in used Olive oil. I use a temperature controlled kiln. These are specialty knives for wood carving usually 1/16 to 1/8 inch thick. Now I am teaching myself forging. I have no experienced blacksmiths close that I can learn from. I bought a gas forge and an anvil. Steel is used steel from a flea market. Files, saws, etc. I intend to go on making full size knives. My questions are: what oil do I use for quenching? Is Olive oil OK? If not, automotive oil? Buy new oil meant for quenching? Does quenching oil go bad? HELP. Lanny S. (Mac) McLaughlin