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Brett Josef Schmidthuber

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  • Location
    Chicago, IL
  • Interests
    Guitar, philosophy and paranormal studies, Spades and shooting dice, bladesmithing (duh), martial arts, billiards, partying, bad horror movies, and I'm also on a never-ending quest to successfully stop in bat country.
  1. Cool one... that thing's pretty damn neat! How thick is it at the spine? Measurements, man, Measurements! (warning - inappropriate humor ahead) -- Sam, if hippie Hemp was the only thing our paracord was playing with/smoking We'd be in alot less trouble :-X Larry - if you make another one of those (and I say why not to that! ) I'd say give that ring a little downward bump so its more in line with the handle, regardless that's a cool user with a cooler laynard
  2. dan - ya i usually just use the (well( rounded corners of My anvil and the flat-pein end of My hammer for starting. After drawing the far end of the tang into a taper, first. I'll try to jerry-rig up a top/bottom fuller tool.. BTW guys...if you ever take students... get a cheap anvil you wont worry about dinging up.... I used about 5 60-grit and 1 120 grit zirconia belts and 4 hours on My 3 X 21 hand belt sander re-furbishing Mine... Of course I knew the risks going into this but still...At least, Now I *TRULY* appriciate the longevity of zirconia...I did it once before (when I got it)
  3. that's wicked sick looking... I agree with bob, It has a egyptian khopesh look to it, and it's hot. Always loved that shape as far as ancient blades go... Question is, How does that sucker CUT? :-D
  4. Dan - I've heard about that technique but havent played around with it as much as I prolly should -- The idea is to fuller in a kind of Kris-shape "~~~~~" <~~~~ and knock-down the higher "bumps" and waves, am I correct? Anything that makes drawing a tang out easier helps, and especially since I like to forge knives with the edge even-with the ricasso, the advice is much appriciated. I did insist that my three amigo's there come back and forge knives but that'll be once they get all their school-stuff done and get a chance to recover from that... (all three are pre-meds.. I dunno HOW t
  5. Pimping complete - Project's done. Sorry for going quiet on this thing guys but we had to crunch to get this thing together and I had to find a way to squeeze in a cinco de mayo party as well! I'll cut the "in-progress" shots short, as I can and get to the fin shots here, Because I am Very excited with how this little project turned out You won't miss much anyway aside from a bunch of grinding and filing! We all decided, that since this based off of a european styled sword, We definately needed an aggressive guard - So we forged it out of 1 X 3/8'' thick 1018 with a slight flare at
  6. Matt- prehaps I am being a bit too paranoid about the blade's toughness. I do realize there is a world of diff between a razor's use, and oh say a big friggen camp knife. Though I like things to be pretty damn tough I can't argue with howard's attitude, either - "go for it and see how you like it" I still wouldnt want a RC 63 M2 camp-knife Though if you plan to re-temper if its a lil too hard for you you'll probably need to knock off a bit of the edge if you use any kind of open-heat tempering method. Depending on the steel, you Could prolly pull it off safely in oil (low alloy steel) o
  7. Hmm..double sided stone - Watch out Sam..you might be getting a little grit contamination with that. If you hone with oil, it might be picking up a few coarser particles and running onto the "fine" side with them. That's another factor that could interfear with your results.. ( Dontcha just LOVE dozens of variables?) You might wanna try dry-honing.... Scrub the hell out of both sides with a rag and a dab of dish soap. after its dry, try honing with just a dab of water on the surface though you might need to clean the stone down if youre doing alot of sharpening on it. I used to be a disbe
  8. There's a couple things that could be going on here sam. First off, welcome to the hairless arm/leg club...Think of it as multi-tasked manscaping. Alright, The hair on your arms is generally easier to shave than your face, that goes double for your legs. Both due to their thickness as well as their lenghts. What are you using to sharpen your edges? I go with My ultra-fine translucent arkansas ( It's only a little rougher than window glass...barely...) though I know a guy who does it on the glass....Stroping is important as well.. Like I said, I do it "dry" without any compounds. You have
  9. Sam- I'd DEFINATELY reccomend buying a ceramic platen liner from darren ellis for it after you get it.... As it comes it has a platen that's just made of steel, with very rounded edges (That just get more rounded with use..) so it's almost impossible to get a sharp choil/edge plunge without a platen liner. It was one of the best 15 or so bucks that I ever spent. Smear a bunch of JB weld or high strenght epoxy, slap it on there, and make sure it's alligned evenly..clamp and you're good in about 24 hours. Just spend some time getting to "know' the machine before hand, play with the belt t
  10. www.supergrit.com - Great company, always lightning-fast shipping.. and they usually give you freebies (a free belt cleaner here, a sample pack of various grit sandpaper tehre..etc etc..) Huge selection, too.
  11. It's a craftsmen 2 X 42 belt sander with a 6'' disc grinder on the side. It's nothing impressive but it works, and is only about 150$. I added a ceramic platen liner to it that I got from darren ellis. one of those babies and a little JB weld and it turned it into a whole new beast. It's still nothing super-powerful like a 2 X 72, but I kind of like the slower grinding speeds because i can take my time on it, and supergrit carries a WIDE range of belts for it thankfully. My only real qualm is that the motor gets really warm after a long session, so you have to stop and give it a break ever
  12. No tree's? Awww damn sam, Youre no fun... What about cars?
  13. OK. a little bit of progress on this sucker... We didnt get as much done as I'd hoped this weekend but it's still moving along. Shak grinding the overall profile Working on the flats of the blade - I was actually suprised that he had as good a grinding technique as he did for his experiance and all. He kept that sucker locked in plce steadily the whole time, so thats one less thing to worry about. Here's a shot of what weves got so far. Still some cleaning up to do on the flat but its almost there. We lost a good deal of the edge bevels on the left side because initially we h
  14. oo. .that sword looks Primed to take down a tree or something! I like it. and the look of the twisting on the seax is dynamite...
  15. cut throat razors - I shave exclusivly with one, have spent some time studying them, and am in-process of making a few. I actually might vote against ULTRA-HARD for the blade (above RC 60), however this might depend on how you hone the thing. A slightly softer (think 56-60) is more responsive to stroping than an ultra-hard temper. Now, When I say stroping, I'm refering to the pre-shave strope, and NOTHING with cutting compoundsor rouge, just plain dry leather/canvas (I just use my pant leg and arm for this..it works great for Me). anyway, Your referance to taps as ultra-hard cutt
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