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Larry Garfield

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  1. Larry Garfield

    Scabbard lining advice

    @Charles du Preez Thanks. I saw that thread before, but if I follow it correctly that's a different technique. He's doing a 2 part scabbard, folded over the blade. I'm doing a 3-flat-piece construction, or attempting to. @Alan Longmire Good to know on the glue! I'd been using Titebond wood glue. I didn't think that would be an issue, but I guess I'll avoid it then. So just basic Elmer's white glue would be safer/sufficient? @Will Drake When you say you ramped up the initial opening, can you clarify what you mean? Just make the hole thicker than it needs to be and taper to smaller inside? Or do you mean in the direction with the blade?
  2. Larry Garfield

    Scabbard lining advice

    Hi again, folks. I am working on a wooden scabbard for one of my blades, using 3 part construction: Two flat pieces and a third outline piece in the middle, all 1/4" pine. My goal is to also then wrap the whole thing in leather. (This is all mostly a practice run for a blade/scabbard I want to do later.) I'm running into some issues, though. Tracing out the blade and cutting the wood was easy. When I glued the first side to the outline, though, (just basic wood glue) it of course fit not-quite-perfectly. It was slightly tight (probably I had it not perfectly positioned when clamping it), but I was able to address that by filing the inside of the outline piece with a thin file until it fit nicely. However, I also wanted to do a liner on it to help keep the blade in place since it's not a perfect fit on the sides the way my previous gouge-out scabbards have been. Easy enough, get some simple felt and glue that in, then glue felt to the other side before gluing that on. Of course, that ran into two problems. First, that meant the scabbard is now too small for the blade by the thickness of the felt. (Obvious in hindsight, I know.) Second, in testing sheathing and drawing the blade the point is constantly getting caught in the felt and tearing it. This is clearly not desirable. I tried ripping out the lining at the edges and it sort of fits, but that means less protection and doesn't solve the tip-catching problem. (In fact, it was so tight that the edge of the blade cut off the felt on the blade side while I was testing inserting and removing it.) At this point I am probably going to need to start over on it, which I'm fine with as I haven't spent much time or materials on it yet and this is supposed to be a learning project. However, I'm looking for advice on how to better handle the lining and sizing. Any good tutorials on this sort of construction? Anything that's obvious in hindsight but I probably wouldn't think of until I've screwed it up a few more times? Some pictures for reference: This is my trace outline. Inner line is traced from the blade, outer line is my hand drawn approximation of the thickness I want. With one half glued: The felt liner, after I tried ripping out the edges. Yes, it doesn't go all the way down. That's again due to the felt thickness meaning that the blade doesn't fit, so I tried doing it just at the top so it would still grip at the top. It didn't work. :-) On the plus side, it does hold the blade exactly the right snugness! It just fails in every other way. :-)
  3. Larry Garfield

    Dust collection for belt sander/grinder

    I'll look into that respirator, thanks. I also have a fire extinguisher in the hallway closet just outside the room in question. (It's my place, not rented.) For eye protection, I wear glasses so my options are a bit more limited. I've been wearing these basic things, which seem to work aside from the fogging problem. I'm open to better as long as I can comfortably wear them over glasses. As far as my current work, I've only written up my first 2 pieces so far, because I'm a lazy bum. I'm on blade 7 at the moment, I think. I posted my first blade here on the forums last year, and my second earlier this year. Most of my collection is in this picture, minus a chef's knife and a push dagger I made as a gift for a friend. (I build the shadow box itself, too. The Sgain Dubh blade on the far right is just tempered; I still have to polish it and attach the handle.) One of these days I'll do proper writeups of the rest of them. Some have delightfully self-deprecating stories to go along with them...
  4. Larry Garfield

    Forged in Fire

    Ah! So they temper and then polish, or let you polish? I always wondered how long it took to shoot an episode. I figured one long day would be tough, but I didn't realize it was three. That makes sense, I suppose, although it makes it all the more amusing when they make fun of a contestant for mistakenly using 24 hour epoxy if they really are waiting 24 hours anyway! :-) Do they overlap shooting for episodes, or do they really take 10 days for just one episode and then move on? (I always figured they were shooting the first 2 rounds for another episode while the finalists were off doing round 3 at home.)
  5. Larry Garfield

    Dust collection for belt sander/grinder

    Kerri: Thanks. On the subject of magnets, I have been highly amused to see little dots of steel dust sticking to my wall at very regularly spaced intervals. I'm guessing they're attracted to the studs or something. I love the baggie-and-magnet idea. I have some welding magnets I can do that with, too. Regarding respirators: I have been using the firm white semi-disposable face masks from Home Depot religiously when using the grinder; I'm not sure if it's the best option, though, and it does have the problem of that, combined with my goggles, the goggles fog up in about 90 seconds so I have to pause a lot to take the goggles off to defog them. Is there a respirator you recommend for hobbyist level wood/steel working, preferably one that is less likely to fog my glasses instantly? I'll check for the Polywall sheets the next time I'm at the store, thanks. I already have a HEPA-grade air filter I'm running while working and for a few hours afterward to take care of most floating crap.
  6. Larry Garfield

    Forged in Fire

    I can only imagine what actual chefs feel like after watching one of the cooking elimination shows. Probably much like folks here do watching FIF. :-) The thing that always bugs me with FIF: When do they temper? Tempering takes a hours, and we never see them even doing post-temper sanding. Do they just not do it and use brittle blades? Do they hide it well? @Geoff Keyes If you can fill that part in for us I'd love to know. It's always bothered me. :-)
  7. Larry Garfield

    Dust collection for belt sander/grinder

    Yes, steel, at grits from 60 to about 600. Also wood, mostly maple so far. There are sparks but they're dull gray by the time they hit even the table underneath them. So far no fire, or any damage other than a dirty wall. I'm trying to keep it that way.
  8. Larry Garfield

    Dust collection for belt sander/grinder

    Jeremy: I've been using a cardboard backing behind the grinder to keep dust from splattering the wall too much; it' mostly works. Yes, I run the grinder in the house. Engineered bamboo floors in there. It's either that or carry the thing outside, which is 1) Very heavy and 2) Not something I'm going to do in December in Chicago! (So far no problems other than lots of dust in the room, but...) I have a plastic tarp I can put down underneath it if necessary. Owen: When you say "Extractor", which part do you mean exactly? The bucket? Wouldn't the water in it put out any embers on contact? That's kind of the point of it... I've been using it on and off for a few months now (not daily, maybe every other week on average), and I've yet to have anything come off of it that's even slightly ember-ish. Mostly just fluffy and hard to clean. Since I don't have a purpose-built workshop space, any recommendations on safer configurations if this one is problematic?
  9. Greetings, fellow makers. I have decided I need a better dust collection mechanism for my 2x42 belt sander than the air filter in the corner, especially since I don't have a proper workshop but have a repurposed spare bedroom. My previous searching of the forum turned up a couple of examples of people building multi-hundred-dollar contraptions involving sheet metal and welding; that's thrice out of my scope. I'm looking for something more low-end. My current plan is a shop vac with a bucket catcher, with some water in the bottom to avoid explosions, and a wide-mouth utility attachment on the end, positioned underneath the belt sander. It won't be perfect, but I figure it should at least catch the majority of grinder dust, both steel and wood. Right now I'm looking at: The wet/dry shop vac just attaches to a bucket, which is good because I can remove the filter it comes with and let the dust just hit the water in the bottom of the bucket. The wide mouth attachment there is the wrong size for the hose but I've found one on Amazon that looks like it should fit it. It's a bit hacky, but it's also about $50 and doesn't require anything more complex than a clamp or two. So my questions are: Is this viable, or am I setting myself up to burn the house down? If it's not a completely stupid idea, are there any changes I should make to this plan before trying to use it? Any way I can filter the air coming out of the exhaust better? If this is an incredibly stupid idea, what's the next recommendation that doesn't involve welding sheet metal and running duct work that's out of my skillset or budget? Thank you for helping me not win a Darwin Award.
  10. Larry Garfield

    Use for brass bullet casings?

    I don't have hunting clients, or other kinds of clients; I'm just a hobbyist making knives for fun arts and crafts as a break from my otherwise all-digital existence. :-) Using the shell casings as handle pins is an interesting idea. They'd probably need to be filled with something though to give them better rigidity, no? Or is there enough glue that it's just decorative?
  11. I recently came into possession of a decent quantity of brass bullet casings of a few different sizes. I know brass isn't cheap, so I figured "gee, I wonder what I could make out of these in the forge?" Of course, brass isn't the easiest thing to work with, and from my 5 minutes of googling it's not an easy (or even safe, necessarily) thing to just melt down, especially bullet casing brass. So, any suggestions on what to do with it for knife use? Anyone done anything decorative with such things before? Is it easier to melt than I thought? Is this just a stupid idea and I should send them to be properly recycled elsewhere? (I give it 50/50 odds on the latter.) (I've no idea what the right topic is for this thread; Mods, feel free to move elsewhere if I guessed wrong.)
  12. Larry Garfield

    Straightening without denting

    Thanks folks! It sounds like a very clear consensus on "rubber/wood mallet and black to dark red heat only". I'll have to see if the forge I go to has such mallets, and if not then probably buy one for them. :-) (Probably a small one; that's all that's needed here I imagine.)
  13. Larry Garfield

    Straightening without denting

    Hi folks. On a couple recent blades I had a slight bend or wave going into heat treatment. No problem, normalize it a few times and use that to tap it back to straight before quenching. Problem: every time I do that, I end up with new hammer dents (I've already ground/filed/sanded at this point) that are just deep enough to be unrealistic to re-grind out post-heat treat. (It's even worse if I let the forge mentor do it, as he likes to smack it really hard while cold for straightening.) Any advise on doing that tiny restraightening after grinding without denting the crap out of the blade again?
  14. Larry Garfield

    Design and size of a Dirk? Single or double edged?

    Oh dear god, what have I done! :-) I'm definitely not up for a fuller at this point. I need more practice before I even think about that. I recall that link being one of the ones I found via Google previously. I don't care for the phallacy of the bollock dagger myself. It also seems like the double-edged design came in with the dudgeon, them went back out of style, then came back into style in the 1700s? Silly Scots. It sounds like I'd be looking at something of a cross between these two (minus the fuller and damascus, of course): https://www.museumreplicas.com/damascus-dirk https://www.museumreplicas.com/primitive-scottish-dirk Unless I wanted to be a bit more loose historically and make it double-edged for kicks. Length, whatever it ends up being. Sound about right?
  15. Larry Garfield

    Design and size of a Dirk? Single or double edged?

    I suppose to an extent it only sort of matters, seeing as I'm not allowed to take the blade out except in a few places. :-) The Ren Faire near Chicago plays fast and loose with the timeline but is vaguely Elizabethan. The rest of my outfit is a Nightwatch pattern kilt (dark blue/green) and simple white shirt.
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