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Larry Garfield

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  1. Ha! Well, I guess that answers that question. :-) I cut it off yesterday with my Dremel, and nearly gave myself a heart attack when the upper wheel fell out in the process. When I reattached it, it was misaligned and the whole frame was tilted, resulting in the belt rapidly sliding toward the remaining frame and ripping into it. Fun times. I was fortunately able to twist it back into shape, reseat the wheel, and unjam the trim adjuster, so we're back in business and I just burned through two 36 grit belts I wasn't able to use before. So, yay? Is it worth trying to coat the lower wheel in some way to make it function as a contact wheel, or just not bother? (This is only a $150 grinder, so I don't expect much of it.)
  2. I am back. I purchased this low-to-medium-end belt sander/grinder last year, and it's been working reasonably well: One issue I've run into, however, is the guard at the bottom. If you look you can see the back frame at the bottom back (right in the picture) comes very close to the wheel. So close, in fact, that it doesn't let let thicker sanding belts even fit. They get caught on friction with the frame and don't move. By "thicker" I mean a Trizact A300 belt, or a 30 grit belt, or godforbid a scotch bright. I have a couple of those, but they simply won't work on this sander (as I discovered after purchasing them, of course). I am considering taking a dremel cutting wheel and just ripping off the back bottom guard to make room. I wouldn't take the whole back off as it's needed for the foot you see at the top left, as the belt rotates to lay flat if desired, just the bottom 20% or so where it gets very close to the belt. I'm certain that would void any possible warranty, but as is there's a fair bit I can't do with it. It would also allow me to, I think, use the bottom wheel as a contact wheel as right now the bottom half of it is blocked by the frame as well. (Someone correct me if I'm stupidly wrong on that.) My question is, is that a good idea? Horribly unsafe idea? Is there a better idea? I'm already running it without the side guard on (because you have to remove it to swap belts anyway), and I've seen plenty of fully-open belt grinders, so I presume it's not unsafe just warranty-voiding. Someone let me know if I'm about to kill myself before I do it, though... Thanks again for all the help.
  3. Ah, OK. You meant going all the way through the handle. That's not what I'm after here, stylistically, but I see what you're getting at. I also as an experiment glued some brass to a piece of test steel. I'll try a few things with all of them and report back on how well it went, whenever I finish it. :-) (I'm a slow worker.) Thanks all!
  4. @Joshua States Hm. Let me make sure I'm following you correctly. You mean I should file/cut the side of the handle like this (see the pen line): Then file the back surface to the shape I want visible. Then put in the brass (with or without epoxy), peen so it squishes out into the notches on the side, file smooth, and then put the handle scale on? That seems like it would work, if I'm following you correctly. Am I? :-)
  5. Hm. All sorts of hot work that I've never done before, mostly with tools I don't have. Joy. :-) Incorporating it into a file work pattern is what I was thinking of, but since it's part of the handle I would want to fill it with *something*, I'd assume. Otherwise the back of the handle would have holes in it, which seems ungood. Affixing in brass seemed like the natural thing to try (since the rest of the knife will have a lot of brass in it already), but I guess not. What else could be used to fill in the filework gap? All I've seen online is colored epoxy, but I presume there are other options. I... suppose it may be possible to use the same wood as the handle scales, which could look interesting. I'm assuming wood->steel epoxy would be sufficient, since that's how the scales attach to the tang anyway. I'm tucking Alan's inlay post away for future reference on another project, as it looks super cool, but wouldn't fit here I'm afraid.
  6. Fascinating and potentially useful for something else I'd planned for the future! However I think the geometry is rather different than what I'm dealing with, which probably means I didn't explain it well. Here's a picture of what the back looks like right now (which I should have posted in the first place, my bad): Rather than having wonky-shaped divots, my thinking was to file them square so I could fit square brass into them. The under-cut technique Alan described above I don't think would work here, as it's the under cut that would be showing on the edge. I'm looking for a set of clean right angle notches. Or am I just not following the geometric options properly? Or if someone else has a better idea to run past my friend I'm flexible.
  7. Dude, I want to take your class for that line alone. :-) I'll have to watch for the shadow effect next time I'm heating a blade. The more I learn here, the more I think the instructors at my forge don't know what they're doing. (We use room temperature quenching oil salvaged from local fast food restaurants. High class operation, I know.)
  8. Hi folks. File this under "please tell me if this is a stupid idea before I do it..." I'm working on a knife for a friend, and part of the handle has some deep dips in it toward the back. Basically I cut it a bit shorter than intended and there's some divots at the tail end in it that are too deep to just file off. In discussing what to do with it, we came up with an idea I want to run past folks here before I try to see if there's any land mines I should be aware of. Basically, the idea is to file the divots to square notches, similar to the deliberate file work I've seen people do on thicker spines. Then after heat treatment take a small chip of brass and glue it into the notch with epoxy. Once it dries, file/grind/sand off the excess brass, polish, and attach handle scales as normal. The shape of the notches below the surface doesn't matter, just the part on the exposed surface of the tang at the back. The end result: The tail end of the handle is still smooth, but has some decorative brass shapes in it. Similar concept as putting colored epoxy in, but I have brass on hand and not colored epoxy. :-) So... is this a good idea? Stupid idea? Anything I need to watch out for that would make it a good idea rather than a stupid idea? Anything I really ought to know before trying? Thanks for any warnings.
  9. Thanks folks. So here's my new plan for attempt 2: 1) Wrap the blade in felt first, then trace the outline of that for the inner layer. Then flare the tracing out a little on the opening (1mm or so, down maybe a half inch?), then hand-trace a margin around that for the outer cut. 2) Cut out the inner layer and two outer layers. 3) Use a file to flare the outer layers wider, again about 1mm thick for a half inch. So it's now 2 mm wider in both directions at the top, tapering back into a tight fit. 4) Using Elmer's wood glue, put one outer layer on the inner layer, let it dry, then line with felt on the 3 sides. 5) Affix felt to the other outer layer for where it will fit into the other. 6) Glue the second outer layer on. 7) Sand to taste. 8) Learn how to do leather wrapping for a scabbard. :-) Sound about right? How far down the scabbard should the felt go? All the way to the tip or does it not need to go all the way?
  10. @Charles du Preez Thanks. I saw that thread before, but if I follow it correctly that's a different technique. He's doing a 2 part scabbard, folded over the blade. I'm doing a 3-flat-piece construction, or attempting to. @Alan Longmire Good to know on the glue! I'd been using Titebond wood glue. I didn't think that would be an issue, but I guess I'll avoid it then. So just basic Elmer's white glue would be safer/sufficient? @Will Drake When you say you ramped up the initial opening, can you clarify what you mean? Just make the hole thicker than it needs to be and taper to smaller inside? Or do you mean in the direction with the blade?
  11. Hi again, folks. I am working on a wooden scabbard for one of my blades, using 3 part construction: Two flat pieces and a third outline piece in the middle, all 1/4" pine. My goal is to also then wrap the whole thing in leather. (This is all mostly a practice run for a blade/scabbard I want to do later.) I'm running into some issues, though. Tracing out the blade and cutting the wood was easy. When I glued the first side to the outline, though, (just basic wood glue) it of course fit not-quite-perfectly. It was slightly tight (probably I had it not perfectly positioned when clamping it), but I was able to address that by filing the inside of the outline piece with a thin file until it fit nicely. However, I also wanted to do a liner on it to help keep the blade in place since it's not a perfect fit on the sides the way my previous gouge-out scabbards have been. Easy enough, get some simple felt and glue that in, then glue felt to the other side before gluing that on. Of course, that ran into two problems. First, that meant the scabbard is now too small for the blade by the thickness of the felt. (Obvious in hindsight, I know.) Second, in testing sheathing and drawing the blade the point is constantly getting caught in the felt and tearing it. This is clearly not desirable. I tried ripping out the lining at the edges and it sort of fits, but that means less protection and doesn't solve the tip-catching problem. (In fact, it was so tight that the edge of the blade cut off the felt on the blade side while I was testing inserting and removing it.) At this point I am probably going to need to start over on it, which I'm fine with as I haven't spent much time or materials on it yet and this is supposed to be a learning project. However, I'm looking for advice on how to better handle the lining and sizing. Any good tutorials on this sort of construction? Anything that's obvious in hindsight but I probably wouldn't think of until I've screwed it up a few more times? Some pictures for reference: This is my trace outline. Inner line is traced from the blade, outer line is my hand drawn approximation of the thickness I want. With one half glued: The felt liner, after I tried ripping out the edges. Yes, it doesn't go all the way down. That's again due to the felt thickness meaning that the blade doesn't fit, so I tried doing it just at the top so it would still grip at the top. It didn't work. :-) On the plus side, it does hold the blade exactly the right snugness! It just fails in every other way. :-)
  12. I'll look into that respirator, thanks. I also have a fire extinguisher in the hallway closet just outside the room in question. (It's my place, not rented.) For eye protection, I wear glasses so my options are a bit more limited. I've been wearing these basic things, which seem to work aside from the fogging problem. I'm open to better as long as I can comfortably wear them over glasses. As far as my current work, I've only written up my first 2 pieces so far, because I'm a lazy bum. I'm on blade 7 at the moment, I think. I posted my first blade here on the forums last year, and my second earlier this year. Most of my collection is in this picture, minus a chef's knife and a push dagger I made as a gift for a friend. (I build the shadow box itself, too. The Sgain Dubh blade on the far right is just tempered; I still have to polish it and attach the handle.) One of these days I'll do proper writeups of the rest of them. Some have delightfully self-deprecating stories to go along with them...
  13. Ah! So they temper and then polish, or let you polish? I always wondered how long it took to shoot an episode. I figured one long day would be tough, but I didn't realize it was three. That makes sense, I suppose, although it makes it all the more amusing when they make fun of a contestant for mistakenly using 24 hour epoxy if they really are waiting 24 hours anyway! :-) Do they overlap shooting for episodes, or do they really take 10 days for just one episode and then move on? (I always figured they were shooting the first 2 rounds for another episode while the finalists were off doing round 3 at home.)
  14. Kerri: Thanks. On the subject of magnets, I have been highly amused to see little dots of steel dust sticking to my wall at very regularly spaced intervals. I'm guessing they're attracted to the studs or something. I love the baggie-and-magnet idea. I have some welding magnets I can do that with, too. Regarding respirators: I have been using the firm white semi-disposable face masks from Home Depot religiously when using the grinder; I'm not sure if it's the best option, though, and it does have the problem of that, combined with my goggles, the goggles fog up in about 90 seconds so I have to pause a lot to take the goggles off to defog them. Is there a respirator you recommend for hobbyist level wood/steel working, preferably one that is less likely to fog my glasses instantly? I'll check for the Polywall sheets the next time I'm at the store, thanks. I already have a HEPA-grade air filter I'm running while working and for a few hours afterward to take care of most floating crap.
  15. I can only imagine what actual chefs feel like after watching one of the cooking elimination shows. Probably much like folks here do watching FIF. :-) The thing that always bugs me with FIF: When do they temper? Tempering takes a hours, and we never see them even doing post-temper sanding. Do they just not do it and use brittle blades? Do they hide it well? @Geoff Keyes If you can fill that part in for us I'd love to know. It's always bothered me. :-)
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