Jump to content

Larry Garfield

Members
  • Content Count

    54
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chicago-is, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hm. Thanks, I'll have to give that a try. I will probably have to give it a try after getting more beeswax, since I don't think I have enough to fill a can like that. :-) (Also, I have a gas stove. This will be interesting...)
  2. It didn't even heat up. It was just the tork of the cutting wheel that popped it right off. I tried it with 2 different pieces, same result both times.
  3. I hadn't even thought of chrome vs vegetable tanned when I bought this leather. That could be an issue. I need to pay more attention in the future. Blargh. For those saying you use beeswax, can you elaborate on how you did so? I have some that I got to try and seal the outside of a leather-wrapped wood scabbard I made, and it was nothing but a hot mess. The blade itself was polished to I think at least 800 grit. No patina yet as it hadn't made it out of my workshop, really. I have some renaissance wax I put on some of my blades, but either I did it wrong or it didn't help because the blade in the display case was waxed and it still got a fierce bit of rust on it. (The sgain didn't have any wax yet.)
  4. I've 2 related rust questions, which hopefully are close enough to both go here... (If not, please only smack me lightly.) I have a new sgain dubh I just finished in time for Ren Faire. The blade came out decently, although the handle is a bit lopsided (my own fault for rushing), and I made a simple leather sheath for it so I could wear it on my leg. It worked out great with the tiny little exception that when I pulled the blade out a few days later, it was rusted on one side, and one side only: I think that's the side that was facing my leg. That suggests that it was sweat that leaked into and through the leather and got onto the blade. (Holy crap, 1075 is water-sensitive.) So, questions: 1) Is my theory correct? 2) What's the right way to keep that from happening? (Treating leather, lining it, different kind of leather...?) 3) What's the best way to clean the blade now? I've used polish on previous blades that rusted, but that of course left some pitting. Is there a better way to deal with that other than sand it back down smooth, then back up to a polish? The sheath is this basic thing: Related, another of my blades has rusted twice now in the same spot in a display case I made. I assume that means "Screw you, display case". How do I go about figuring out the culprit and fixing it? My theory is that the back of it is fur attached to a pegboard using Titebond II (what I was using at the time, before I was advised here that it's a rust machine). It's been about 9 months since I made it, though, and it's only affecting one blade in one specific spot. Is there something I can do there other than ripping off the whole fur lining, sanding off all glue residue, and attaching a new piece of fur with Titebond I (which I have since gotten instead)? Thanks as usual for any input.
  5. An update here for those who find it later: Gluing a chip of brass into a notch and trying to grind/cut it away was a dismal failure. The brass popped out and flew across the table within seconds of me touching it with a low-speed Dremel cutting disk. I imagine a belt sander would have the same effect. So, yeah, don't do that.
  6. Ha! Well, I guess that answers that question. :-) I cut it off yesterday with my Dremel, and nearly gave myself a heart attack when the upper wheel fell out in the process. When I reattached it, it was misaligned and the whole frame was tilted, resulting in the belt rapidly sliding toward the remaining frame and ripping into it. Fun times. I was fortunately able to twist it back into shape, reseat the wheel, and unjam the trim adjuster, so we're back in business and I just burned through two 36 grit belts I wasn't able to use before. So, yay? Is it worth trying to coat the lower wheel in some way to make it function as a contact wheel, or just not bother? (This is only a $150 grinder, so I don't expect much of it.)
  7. I am back. I purchased this low-to-medium-end belt sander/grinder last year, and it's been working reasonably well: One issue I've run into, however, is the guard at the bottom. If you look you can see the back frame at the bottom back (right in the picture) comes very close to the wheel. So close, in fact, that it doesn't let let thicker sanding belts even fit. They get caught on friction with the frame and don't move. By "thicker" I mean a Trizact A300 belt, or a 30 grit belt, or godforbid a scotch bright. I have a couple of those, but they simply won't work on this sander (as I discovered after purchasing them, of course). I am considering taking a dremel cutting wheel and just ripping off the back bottom guard to make room. I wouldn't take the whole back off as it's needed for the foot you see at the top left, as the belt rotates to lay flat if desired, just the bottom 20% or so where it gets very close to the belt. I'm certain that would void any possible warranty, but as is there's a fair bit I can't do with it. It would also allow me to, I think, use the bottom wheel as a contact wheel as right now the bottom half of it is blocked by the frame as well. (Someone correct me if I'm stupidly wrong on that.) My question is, is that a good idea? Horribly unsafe idea? Is there a better idea? I'm already running it without the side guard on (because you have to remove it to swap belts anyway), and I've seen plenty of fully-open belt grinders, so I presume it's not unsafe just warranty-voiding. Someone let me know if I'm about to kill myself before I do it, though... Thanks again for all the help.
  8. Ah, OK. You meant going all the way through the handle. That's not what I'm after here, stylistically, but I see what you're getting at. I also as an experiment glued some brass to a piece of test steel. I'll try a few things with all of them and report back on how well it went, whenever I finish it. :-) (I'm a slow worker.) Thanks all!
  9. @Joshua States Hm. Let me make sure I'm following you correctly. You mean I should file/cut the side of the handle like this (see the pen line): Then file the back surface to the shape I want visible. Then put in the brass (with or without epoxy), peen so it squishes out into the notches on the side, file smooth, and then put the handle scale on? That seems like it would work, if I'm following you correctly. Am I? :-)
  10. Hm. All sorts of hot work that I've never done before, mostly with tools I don't have. Joy. :-) Incorporating it into a file work pattern is what I was thinking of, but since it's part of the handle I would want to fill it with *something*, I'd assume. Otherwise the back of the handle would have holes in it, which seems ungood. Affixing in brass seemed like the natural thing to try (since the rest of the knife will have a lot of brass in it already), but I guess not. What else could be used to fill in the filework gap? All I've seen online is colored epoxy, but I presume there are other options. I... suppose it may be possible to use the same wood as the handle scales, which could look interesting. I'm assuming wood->steel epoxy would be sufficient, since that's how the scales attach to the tang anyway. I'm tucking Alan's inlay post away for future reference on another project, as it looks super cool, but wouldn't fit here I'm afraid.
  11. Fascinating and potentially useful for something else I'd planned for the future! However I think the geometry is rather different than what I'm dealing with, which probably means I didn't explain it well. Here's a picture of what the back looks like right now (which I should have posted in the first place, my bad): Rather than having wonky-shaped divots, my thinking was to file them square so I could fit square brass into them. The under-cut technique Alan described above I don't think would work here, as it's the under cut that would be showing on the edge. I'm looking for a set of clean right angle notches. Or am I just not following the geometric options properly? Or if someone else has a better idea to run past my friend I'm flexible.
  12. Dude, I want to take your class for that line alone. :-) I'll have to watch for the shadow effect next time I'm heating a blade. The more I learn here, the more I think the instructors at my forge don't know what they're doing. (We use room temperature quenching oil salvaged from local fast food restaurants. High class operation, I know.)
  13. Hi folks. File this under "please tell me if this is a stupid idea before I do it..." I'm working on a knife for a friend, and part of the handle has some deep dips in it toward the back. Basically I cut it a bit shorter than intended and there's some divots at the tail end in it that are too deep to just file off. In discussing what to do with it, we came up with an idea I want to run past folks here before I try to see if there's any land mines I should be aware of. Basically, the idea is to file the divots to square notches, similar to the deliberate file work I've seen people do on thicker spines. Then after heat treatment take a small chip of brass and glue it into the notch with epoxy. Once it dries, file/grind/sand off the excess brass, polish, and attach handle scales as normal. The shape of the notches below the surface doesn't matter, just the part on the exposed surface of the tang at the back. The end result: The tail end of the handle is still smooth, but has some decorative brass shapes in it. Similar concept as putting colored epoxy in, but I have brass on hand and not colored epoxy. :-) So... is this a good idea? Stupid idea? Anything I need to watch out for that would make it a good idea rather than a stupid idea? Anything I really ought to know before trying? Thanks for any warnings.
  14. Thanks folks. So here's my new plan for attempt 2: 1) Wrap the blade in felt first, then trace the outline of that for the inner layer. Then flare the tracing out a little on the opening (1mm or so, down maybe a half inch?), then hand-trace a margin around that for the outer cut. 2) Cut out the inner layer and two outer layers. 3) Use a file to flare the outer layers wider, again about 1mm thick for a half inch. So it's now 2 mm wider in both directions at the top, tapering back into a tight fit. 4) Using Elmer's wood glue, put one outer layer on the inner layer, let it dry, then line with felt on the 3 sides. 5) Affix felt to the other outer layer for where it will fit into the other. 6) Glue the second outer layer on. 7) Sand to taste. 8) Learn how to do leather wrapping for a scabbard. :-) Sound about right? How far down the scabbard should the felt go? All the way to the tip or does it not need to go all the way?
  15. @Charles du Preez Thanks. I saw that thread before, but if I follow it correctly that's a different technique. He's doing a 2 part scabbard, folded over the blade. I'm doing a 3-flat-piece construction, or attempting to. @Alan Longmire Good to know on the glue! I'd been using Titebond wood glue. I didn't think that would be an issue, but I guess I'll avoid it then. So just basic Elmer's white glue would be safer/sufficient? @Will Drake When you say you ramped up the initial opening, can you clarify what you mean? Just make the hole thicker than it needs to be and taper to smaller inside? Or do you mean in the direction with the blade?
×
×
  • Create New...