Jump to content

Larry Garfield

Members
  • Content Count

    56
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chicago-is, USA

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Hi folks. A store-bought pairing knife of mine had its plastic handle, um, melt recently. (Don't ask.) The blade is probably still fine, so I want to rehandle it. The blade is machine-made stainless steel, and totally dishwasher safe. I'd like a handle that is as well. I presume that rules out any wood-based material., which is all I've used to date. What is a good handle material for dishwasher safe knives?
  2. Hi Chris. Good to know it's possible. I ended up doing endcaps like Michael suggested for a blade I made for a friend. (Boy this is an old thread...) I need to post it properly, but here's a pic of the end result: It took a bit of doing to get it all positioned and aligned properly, but in the end I think it turned out really well. (4 bullet ends capping 2 very short brass pins through the tang, purchased brass C guard, 1075 steel, wood handle with polyurethane seal.) I've still got a whole bag more to use, so...
  3. Hm. Thanks, I'll have to give that a try. I will probably have to give it a try after getting more beeswax, since I don't think I have enough to fill a can like that. :-) (Also, I have a gas stove. This will be interesting...)
  4. It didn't even heat up. It was just the tork of the cutting wheel that popped it right off. I tried it with 2 different pieces, same result both times.
  5. I hadn't even thought of chrome vs vegetable tanned when I bought this leather. That could be an issue. I need to pay more attention in the future. Blargh. For those saying you use beeswax, can you elaborate on how you did so? I have some that I got to try and seal the outside of a leather-wrapped wood scabbard I made, and it was nothing but a hot mess. The blade itself was polished to I think at least 800 grit. No patina yet as it hadn't made it out of my workshop, really. I have some renaissance wax I put on some of my blades, but either I did it wrong or it didn't help be
  6. I've 2 related rust questions, which hopefully are close enough to both go here... (If not, please only smack me lightly.) I have a new sgain dubh I just finished in time for Ren Faire. The blade came out decently, although the handle is a bit lopsided (my own fault for rushing), and I made a simple leather sheath for it so I could wear it on my leg. It worked out great with the tiny little exception that when I pulled the blade out a few days later, it was rusted on one side, and one side only: I think that's the side that was facing my leg. That suggests that it wa
  7. An update here for those who find it later: Gluing a chip of brass into a notch and trying to grind/cut it away was a dismal failure. The brass popped out and flew across the table within seconds of me touching it with a low-speed Dremel cutting disk. I imagine a belt sander would have the same effect. So, yeah, don't do that.
  8. Ha! Well, I guess that answers that question. :-) I cut it off yesterday with my Dremel, and nearly gave myself a heart attack when the upper wheel fell out in the process. When I reattached it, it was misaligned and the whole frame was tilted, resulting in the belt rapidly sliding toward the remaining frame and ripping into it. Fun times. I was fortunately able to twist it back into shape, reseat the wheel, and unjam the trim adjuster, so we're back in business and I just burned through two 36 grit belts I wasn't able to use before. So, yay? Is it worth trying to coat t
  9. I am back. I purchased this low-to-medium-end belt sander/grinder last year, and it's been working reasonably well: One issue I've run into, however, is the guard at the bottom. If you look you can see the back frame at the bottom back (right in the picture) comes very close to the wheel. So close, in fact, that it doesn't let let thicker sanding belts even fit. They get caught on friction with the frame and don't move. By "thicker" I mean a Trizact A300 belt, or a 30 grit belt, or godforbid a scotch bright. I have a couple of those, but they simply won't work on this sa
  10. Ah, OK. You meant going all the way through the handle. That's not what I'm after here, stylistically, but I see what you're getting at. I also as an experiment glued some brass to a piece of test steel. I'll try a few things with all of them and report back on how well it went, whenever I finish it. :-) (I'm a slow worker.) Thanks all!
  11. @Joshua States Hm. Let me make sure I'm following you correctly. You mean I should file/cut the side of the handle like this (see the pen line): Then file the back surface to the shape I want visible. Then put in the brass (with or without epoxy), peen so it squishes out into the notches on the side, file smooth, and then put the handle scale on? That seems like it would work, if I'm following you correctly. Am I? :-)
  12. Hm. All sorts of hot work that I've never done before, mostly with tools I don't have. Joy. :-) Incorporating it into a file work pattern is what I was thinking of, but since it's part of the handle I would want to fill it with *something*, I'd assume. Otherwise the back of the handle would have holes in it, which seems ungood. Affixing in brass seemed like the natural thing to try (since the rest of the knife will have a lot of brass in it already), but I guess not. What else could be used to fill in the filework gap? All I've seen online is colored epoxy, but I presume there a
  13. Fascinating and potentially useful for something else I'd planned for the future! However I think the geometry is rather different than what I'm dealing with, which probably means I didn't explain it well. Here's a picture of what the back looks like right now (which I should have posted in the first place, my bad): Rather than having wonky-shaped divots, my thinking was to file them square so I could fit square brass into them. The under-cut technique Alan described above I don't think would work here, as it's the under cut that would be showing on the edge. I'm look
  14. Dude, I want to take your class for that line alone. :-) I'll have to watch for the shadow effect next time I'm heating a blade. The more I learn here, the more I think the instructors at my forge don't know what they're doing. (We use room temperature quenching oil salvaged from local fast food restaurants. High class operation, I know.)
  15. Hi folks. File this under "please tell me if this is a stupid idea before I do it..." I'm working on a knife for a friend, and part of the handle has some deep dips in it toward the back. Basically I cut it a bit shorter than intended and there's some divots at the tail end in it that are too deep to just file off. In discussing what to do with it, we came up with an idea I want to run past folks here before I try to see if there's any land mines I should be aware of. Basically, the idea is to file the divots to square notches, similar to the deliberate file work I've seen people d
×
×
  • Create New...