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Larry Garfield

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Everything posted by Larry Garfield

  1. Hi folks. A store-bought pairing knife of mine had its plastic handle, um, melt recently. (Don't ask.) The blade is probably still fine, so I want to rehandle it. The blade is machine-made stainless steel, and totally dishwasher safe. I'd like a handle that is as well. I presume that rules out any wood-based material., which is all I've used to date. What is a good handle material for dishwasher safe knives?
  2. Hi Chris. Good to know it's possible. I ended up doing endcaps like Michael suggested for a blade I made for a friend. (Boy this is an old thread...) I need to post it properly, but here's a pic of the end result: It took a bit of doing to get it all positioned and aligned properly, but in the end I think it turned out really well. (4 bullet ends capping 2 very short brass pins through the tang, purchased brass C guard, 1075 steel, wood handle with polyurethane seal.) I've still got a whole bag more to use, so...
  3. Hm. Thanks, I'll have to give that a try. I will probably have to give it a try after getting more beeswax, since I don't think I have enough to fill a can like that. :-) (Also, I have a gas stove. This will be interesting...)
  4. It didn't even heat up. It was just the tork of the cutting wheel that popped it right off. I tried it with 2 different pieces, same result both times.
  5. I hadn't even thought of chrome vs vegetable tanned when I bought this leather. That could be an issue. I need to pay more attention in the future. Blargh. For those saying you use beeswax, can you elaborate on how you did so? I have some that I got to try and seal the outside of a leather-wrapped wood scabbard I made, and it was nothing but a hot mess. The blade itself was polished to I think at least 800 grit. No patina yet as it hadn't made it out of my workshop, really. I have some renaissance wax I put on some of my blades, but either I did it wrong or it didn't help be
  6. I've 2 related rust questions, which hopefully are close enough to both go here... (If not, please only smack me lightly.) I have a new sgain dubh I just finished in time for Ren Faire. The blade came out decently, although the handle is a bit lopsided (my own fault for rushing), and I made a simple leather sheath for it so I could wear it on my leg. It worked out great with the tiny little exception that when I pulled the blade out a few days later, it was rusted on one side, and one side only: I think that's the side that was facing my leg. That suggests that it wa
  7. An update here for those who find it later: Gluing a chip of brass into a notch and trying to grind/cut it away was a dismal failure. The brass popped out and flew across the table within seconds of me touching it with a low-speed Dremel cutting disk. I imagine a belt sander would have the same effect. So, yeah, don't do that.
  8. Ha! Well, I guess that answers that question. :-) I cut it off yesterday with my Dremel, and nearly gave myself a heart attack when the upper wheel fell out in the process. When I reattached it, it was misaligned and the whole frame was tilted, resulting in the belt rapidly sliding toward the remaining frame and ripping into it. Fun times. I was fortunately able to twist it back into shape, reseat the wheel, and unjam the trim adjuster, so we're back in business and I just burned through two 36 grit belts I wasn't able to use before. So, yay? Is it worth trying to coat t
  9. I am back. I purchased this low-to-medium-end belt sander/grinder last year, and it's been working reasonably well: One issue I've run into, however, is the guard at the bottom. If you look you can see the back frame at the bottom back (right in the picture) comes very close to the wheel. So close, in fact, that it doesn't let let thicker sanding belts even fit. They get caught on friction with the frame and don't move. By "thicker" I mean a Trizact A300 belt, or a 30 grit belt, or godforbid a scotch bright. I have a couple of those, but they simply won't work on this sa
  10. Ah, OK. You meant going all the way through the handle. That's not what I'm after here, stylistically, but I see what you're getting at. I also as an experiment glued some brass to a piece of test steel. I'll try a few things with all of them and report back on how well it went, whenever I finish it. :-) (I'm a slow worker.) Thanks all!
  11. @Joshua States Hm. Let me make sure I'm following you correctly. You mean I should file/cut the side of the handle like this (see the pen line): Then file the back surface to the shape I want visible. Then put in the brass (with or without epoxy), peen so it squishes out into the notches on the side, file smooth, and then put the handle scale on? That seems like it would work, if I'm following you correctly. Am I? :-)
  12. Hm. All sorts of hot work that I've never done before, mostly with tools I don't have. Joy. :-) Incorporating it into a file work pattern is what I was thinking of, but since it's part of the handle I would want to fill it with *something*, I'd assume. Otherwise the back of the handle would have holes in it, which seems ungood. Affixing in brass seemed like the natural thing to try (since the rest of the knife will have a lot of brass in it already), but I guess not. What else could be used to fill in the filework gap? All I've seen online is colored epoxy, but I presume there a
  13. Fascinating and potentially useful for something else I'd planned for the future! However I think the geometry is rather different than what I'm dealing with, which probably means I didn't explain it well. Here's a picture of what the back looks like right now (which I should have posted in the first place, my bad): Rather than having wonky-shaped divots, my thinking was to file them square so I could fit square brass into them. The under-cut technique Alan described above I don't think would work here, as it's the under cut that would be showing on the edge. I'm look
  14. Dude, I want to take your class for that line alone. :-) I'll have to watch for the shadow effect next time I'm heating a blade. The more I learn here, the more I think the instructors at my forge don't know what they're doing. (We use room temperature quenching oil salvaged from local fast food restaurants. High class operation, I know.)
  15. Hi folks. File this under "please tell me if this is a stupid idea before I do it..." I'm working on a knife for a friend, and part of the handle has some deep dips in it toward the back. Basically I cut it a bit shorter than intended and there's some divots at the tail end in it that are too deep to just file off. In discussing what to do with it, we came up with an idea I want to run past folks here before I try to see if there's any land mines I should be aware of. Basically, the idea is to file the divots to square notches, similar to the deliberate file work I've seen people d
  16. Thanks folks. So here's my new plan for attempt 2: 1) Wrap the blade in felt first, then trace the outline of that for the inner layer. Then flare the tracing out a little on the opening (1mm or so, down maybe a half inch?), then hand-trace a margin around that for the outer cut. 2) Cut out the inner layer and two outer layers. 3) Use a file to flare the outer layers wider, again about 1mm thick for a half inch. So it's now 2 mm wider in both directions at the top, tapering back into a tight fit. 4) Using Elmer's wood glue, put one outer layer on the inner layer, let it
  17. @Charles du Preez Thanks. I saw that thread before, but if I follow it correctly that's a different technique. He's doing a 2 part scabbard, folded over the blade. I'm doing a 3-flat-piece construction, or attempting to. @Alan Longmire Good to know on the glue! I'd been using Titebond wood glue. I didn't think that would be an issue, but I guess I'll avoid it then. So just basic Elmer's white glue would be safer/sufficient? @Will Drake When you say you ramped up the initial opening, can you clarify what you mean? Just make the hole thicker than it needs to be and taper to smal
  18. Hi again, folks. I am working on a wooden scabbard for one of my blades, using 3 part construction: Two flat pieces and a third outline piece in the middle, all 1/4" pine. My goal is to also then wrap the whole thing in leather. (This is all mostly a practice run for a blade/scabbard I want to do later.) I'm running into some issues, though. Tracing out the blade and cutting the wood was easy. When I glued the first side to the outline, though, (just basic wood glue) it of course fit not-quite-perfectly. It was slightly tight (probably I had it not perfectly positioned when clam
  19. I'll look into that respirator, thanks. I also have a fire extinguisher in the hallway closet just outside the room in question. (It's my place, not rented.) For eye protection, I wear glasses so my options are a bit more limited. I've been wearing these basic things, which seem to work aside from the fogging problem. I'm open to better as long as I can comfortably wear them over glasses. As far as my current work, I've only written up my first 2 pieces so far, because I'm a lazy bum. I'm on blade 7 at the moment, I think. I posted my first blade here on the forums last yea
  20. Ah! So they temper and then polish, or let you polish? I always wondered how long it took to shoot an episode. I figured one long day would be tough, but I didn't realize it was three. That makes sense, I suppose, although it makes it all the more amusing when they make fun of a contestant for mistakenly using 24 hour epoxy if they really are waiting 24 hours anyway! :-) Do they overlap shooting for episodes, or do they really take 10 days for just one episode and then move on? (I always figured they were shooting the first 2 rounds for another episode while the finalists were of
  21. Kerri: Thanks. On the subject of magnets, I have been highly amused to see little dots of steel dust sticking to my wall at very regularly spaced intervals. I'm guessing they're attracted to the studs or something. I love the baggie-and-magnet idea. I have some welding magnets I can do that with, too. Regarding respirators: I have been using the firm white semi-disposable face masks from Home Depot religiously when using the grinder; I'm not sure if it's the best option, though, and it does have the problem of that, combined with my goggles, the goggles fog up in about 90 seconds
  22. I can only imagine what actual chefs feel like after watching one of the cooking elimination shows. Probably much like folks here do watching FIF. :-) The thing that always bugs me with FIF: When do they temper? Tempering takes a hours, and we never see them even doing post-temper sanding. Do they just not do it and use brittle blades? Do they hide it well? @Geoff Keyes If you can fill that part in for us I'd love to know. It's always bothered me. :-)
  23. Yes, steel, at grits from 60 to about 600. Also wood, mostly maple so far. There are sparks but they're dull gray by the time they hit even the table underneath them. So far no fire, or any damage other than a dirty wall. I'm trying to keep it that way.
  24. Jeremy: I've been using a cardboard backing behind the grinder to keep dust from splattering the wall too much; it' mostly works. Yes, I run the grinder in the house. Engineered bamboo floors in there. It's either that or carry the thing outside, which is 1) Very heavy and 2) Not something I'm going to do in December in Chicago! (So far no problems other than lots of dust in the room, but...) I have a plastic tarp I can put down underneath it if necessary. Owen: When you say "Extractor", which part do you mean exactly? The bucket? Wouldn't the water in it put out any embers
  25. Greetings, fellow makers. I have decided I need a better dust collection mechanism for my 2x42 belt sander than the air filter in the corner, especially since I don't have a proper workshop but have a repurposed spare bedroom. My previous searching of the forum turned up a couple of examples of people building multi-hundred-dollar contraptions involving sheet metal and welding; that's thrice out of my scope. I'm looking for something more low-end. My current plan is a shop vac with a bucket catcher, with some water in the bottom to avoid explosions, and a wide-mouth utility attachm
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