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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

TrentO

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  1. Hydraulic press build

    Here’s the speed it moves at 20EA829B-6995-430A-A991-8B97350B8884.MOV
  2. Hydraulic press build

    I was inspired by the presses made by the coal ironworks fellows. Here’s some other pics during the build. I used a propane torch to preheat the thick steel before welding to reduce the chances of my welds cracking. I stick welded it with a 6011 root and 7018 as fill. So far it works well. Actually, it is kind of scary fast. It moves the same speed empty as with hit steel in it. Now I’m furiously building tooling for it.
  3. Hey fellows. I recently finished my forging press and wanted to share some info on the build. It is built from a W10-88 section of Wide beam as the spine. It uses a 5” bore x 8” stroke hydraulic cylinder and a 5hp electric motor running a 11gpm dual stage pump. Here are some early pics
  4. Steel for press construction

    I built a coal ironworks style open face press with a 5hp motor and 11gpm pump. The main spine is W10-88 (10" wide, 88 lbs / foot). You want a lot of strength in a press to resist deformation.
  5. I was planning a pure mechanical solution for my press. I currently have the footpedal held in the "up" position with a spring. When you press down on the footpedal, the press goes down. When you release it goes up. My plan was to build an arm off the press head with a height adjustable contact sticking out. I planned a pivot which would be pushed by the contact and which would push on the back of the valve, stopping the rising action. My goal was to set the stop height depending on what I'm working and then press down to squash, let off and it will only go up a little way. Having a day job with computers I really want to spend my off time on mechanical bits.
  6. Has anyone tried canister welding 201 and 316 (I’m think the high manganese content in the 201 will etch very dark) and using an AEB-L core in a San Mai style construction? Given the cost of AEB-L and Nitro-V I ‘m looking for a better option for stainless Damascus.
  7. Leg Vise - Screw Box - WTB

    My own leg vice suffered the same fate. I used new 1 1/4” Acme thread and 2 Acme nuts to build a new screw assembly. I took a few pics along the way. I made the thread longer and welded the nut to a steel plate and a steel tube as the screw block. I welded in some dogs to engage with the vice frame. So far it works really well. hope this helps, -Trent
  8. Stainless San Mai

    I’m thinking of trying a stainless Damascus outside san mai with an AEB-L or Nitro V core. I’m wondering since the cutting edge is AEB-L if I can use less hard and less expensive stainless for the outside Damascus. I was specifically wondering about 201 stainless, assuming it would etch very dark with the high magenese content and 316 for the bright. Has anyone tired these steels? Is there any reason not to use 200 series for the exterior of san mai? My plan was to stack it all up using very thin 201 and 316 with thicker AEB—L for the core and canister weld it. curious, -Trent
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