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Tim Cook

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  1. I do have some more of the alloy. Problem is I only have a mig welder. Didn't know a handheld propane torch would get hot enough to melt it.
  2. Yikes! Used a lost foam technique and poured a bronze drag for a scabbard. There was a small dimple on the tip. I thought no problem, I will grind it away. But the more I ground the larger it got! Is there a way to fill this in or fix it somehow? Or am I condemned to have to start over? Could really use some help.
  3. Tim Cook

    Ancient patinas

    Question for all u people out there smarter than me (which is likely most everyone). I have made a Sassanid historical sword for someone. He wanted it to look new but historically be accurate. The question is about the patina. I know they didn't use modern bluing or other current techniques, so did they patina the blades or just keep them oiled? I know antique blades get patina with age, but could not find any records that said if they were patinated when made. Anyone know?
  4. Success! Sold all the knives. My first knife sale. Made about 50 percent profit on them (does this mean I am a blade smith now?). Anywho, thanks for the help with patinas!
  5. Ok I get it. Thanks for the clarification. Now just need to find a ceramic crucible that holds about 3 or 4 kg in the shape of a bread pan. Hope they make such an animal or I might have to build a melting furnace.
  6. Really appreciate your reply Jeroen. I wonder if u could explain further on the cast iron. According to online metals, the melting point of cast iron is about 2200 degrees and bronze is 1675. Why would a propane forge with pyrometer holding a temp of about 1800 or so not work? Thanks!
  7. Question for anyone familiar with casting brass/bronze or whatnot. I am going to try my hand at lost foam sand casting. Problem is my forge has an opening too small to use a cup style crucible large enough to hold the amount of metal I need to pour. I need one that is in the shape of a bread loaf pan to fit. Haven't found one yet. I did find some cast iron bread pans. I was thinking of buying one and welding the handle I need onto it. Has anyone seen this? Would it work? Or does someone know of a supplier that sells the graphite version?
  8. I could be wrong, but I would think its mostly related to the vinegar. So the higher the vinegar content in the mustard the better the etch?
  9. Used yellow mustard and laid a big glop on a plate. Used a q-tip and drizzled the mustard across it in half of a wavy "x" pattern. Let it set an hour and cleaned it off. Then went back and finished crossing the x with the same pattern. Took awhile doing both sides. Then finished a half hour soak in vinegar to make sure I didn't miss any spots. Used 000 steel wool to finish.
  10. Ok tried my hand at a mustard patina. Went with a wave pattern. The knife is one of 8. Going to market them as Japanese steak knives Lol. Thanks for the help guys! Lot of experience on this site. Even more so, everyone willing to share it. (sorry about the shadow on the photo)
  11. All the knives I have made so far have been gifts or for personal use. Now I am starting to make some kitchen style knives to sell. I have done research and read that satin finish knives sell better than mirror. So the question for all the blade smiths that have sold a lot of knives, is this what you have experienced? Curious if the real world experiences of blade smiths here coincide with the rest of the internet. What is everyone's opinion?
  12. Heh, I hear U. He liked the handle the way it was so I left it. I guess he loves a rough antique look. Yes it needed more sanding in my opinion also and the dimensions reduced. I have learned though to give people what they want and not what I like. The end rivet was taken from a lid at a garage sale. I used my grinder to cut it off a solid brass lid and used it to pin the cap on. It had some nice symmetrical carving. Thanks for your thoughts!
  13. Took the summer off (don't like the heat). But finally got this dagger done. Its only my 2nd knife, but it sure had a lot of firsts. First forge weld, first acid etch, first through tang, butt cap, Damascus, and etc. To critique: The Good: Forge welds went off without a hitch. No inclusions, cold shuts or anything else. Resulted in a nice random pattern. The Bad: Man do I need practice on my grinder! I cannot cut straight even if I had a milling machine! The Ugly: The way I danced around after getting burned by the quenchant. Glad nobody seen me (plausible deniability)! The handle was made to fit the guys hands to whom I'm giving it. The guy has paws like a gorilla. Any thought, critiques, opinions or suggestions are welcome!
  14. Very helpful post. Tyvm! I would like to put in a vote for the Oregon grinder. http://www.ebaystores.com/oregonblademaker/Belt-Grinders-/_i.html?_trksid=p4634.c0.m322&_fsub=9689989013&_sid=1307333723 . That is what I bought and love it. Another list that might be helpful is a list of new power hammer makers. Just a thought. Great post!
  15. Hmmm. Granted I am a newb as well. But perhaps a sharpening jig might help?
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