Tim Cook

Another problem could also be using water to quench. Esp if its not heated. It could have cracked your steel (gauging from the dark lines on the side view of the steel) and then broke the rest of the way from trying to straighten it. I like to use heated canola oil for 1095. Also with 1095 you want to quench it immediately after pulling it from the forge.

They are small simple knives and the paring knives are even smaller. Usually make several at a time. Doesn't really take long. The walnut wood for the handles comes from leftover wood for my mantle. Have quite a bit left over from when I built my house back in 96.

Started a new project of making some simple table and paring knife sets (4 knives per set). Make them from an old large SUV spring I bought for 25 bucks. Should be able to make about 4 sets. At about 50 bucks for a set, they should give me a nice profit to buy some more belts.

This may be too late a comment but the idea only just came to me. I also don't know what your budget is going to be. But how about designing a shop with concrete slab floor and use double wide garage doors on 3 (or even 4) sides. It would be unusual but it would allow u to open/close them as u need and still have plenty of that open air feel? Be easier to clean out too.

Yeah I thought it was best on damascus to grind to shape to avoid disturbing the pattern. Guess that was where I screwed up. I will forge it next time. Thanks for the info!

Did a raindrop carving knife but the pattern is rather indistinct. The damascus bar before I started looked perfect. But since it is a carving knife I went with a lenticular grind. Would that have caused the pattern deformation?

Had to post this. Its a replica from call of duty. Client wanted one badly. I have to admit, first knife that made me laugh a couple times while making it. That ever happened to anyone else?

I have commissioned a knife that uses a "super" stainless steel that recommends cryo so I have been doing some research into it. Turns out liquid nitrogen just doesn't last, even in an approved container (dewar). For instance a 10 liter container would only last about 45 days. And the container is close to a 1000 bucks. Not worth it IMO unless u are doing a LOT of knives. It is about a negative 325ish degrees. Cpm-s90v recommends this temp. Dry ice and alcohol is around negative 100. So u need to consider the heat treat recommendations of your steel and the price before U dive in. I can say this tho, I've made several knives with 1095 and didn't do any cryo treatments on them.

I guess anything is possible, but I've never heard of an oil that wasn't flammable? Anyway u do not want to use propane thru an acetylene hose. It will degrade it. Hence why its possible that the oily residue is from that interaction.

Hmmm. I wonder if you are using an acetylene hose. I read grade T is what is recommended for propane (thought about buying one). When rubber break downs it leaves behind an oily residue type gunk. Course like Alan I'm guessing. You might also consider purging and cleaning out the tanks jic. Oxy and oil doesn't make a good combo.

Take a bathroom scale and weigh it. Then buy it and say you need it because the scales said so.

I lucked out and bought a bunch of old files and saw blades and other high carbon steel items at a yard sale. I went through them finally and found a weird looking file. I am thinking its an old farrier file of some type. Anyone know what it is? Spark test well but don't want to destroy it if it has some collectiblity for someone. Google didn't help and I have to admit I'm curious.

That horse looks like its giving u lip for putting heavy weight on it lol.

IR. I put the probe in the center(ish) of the forge, the contact has to be touching something. And the inside of forges (at least mine) will vary in temp depending on where u touch it. That is why I put mine in the center.

This forge looks very similar to the one I built/use. I posted mine on this site just like u did. If you are going to be doing forge welding I would recommend making the firebox conical so flux will drain out and using bubble alumina in the bottom just up from the brick on both sides. Flux is fairly caustic will eat into a lot of materials. I used it on mine and the floor hasn't needed a single repair yet. I would also recommend a pyrometer. I used one in mine since I don't see color well and it has been very useful. With 3 burners and that much insulation you might have a tendency towards overheating. I just recently had issues with that while making canister damascus. Turns out just 200 degrees made a big difference. I will say this, your forge looks like its coming along nicely!