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Tim Cook

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  1. Hence the problem. Not sold enough to really have a base.
  2. Question for all u brilliant bladesmiths. If I was going to make knives to sell, what type of knife sells the best?
  3. I do mine at room temp. So heating it isn't necessary. However, experimenting with different temps (hot and cold) might produce a better pattern. Never know till u try!
  4. Stuck a crowbar into my wallet and got a small 10 inch band saw. Used it to cut some Osage orange and Black locust knife scales from a small log a friend gave me. Not heard about many people using black locust, but it is sure a hard and a beautiful wood.
  5. Just thought I would show this blade. I have watched TV and internet smiths make all sorts of twist damascus. Usually with a bazillion twists and layers. So went the other route here. Only used 6 layers and about 1.5 twists. Thought some other newbies might like to see it for comparison. And yes, the butt cap needs more work lol. It is threaded and screwed on.
  6. Hmm. Ok thanks for the replies. Problem is I don't have the 8k+ to spend on an anyang. That is twice my budget. Guess I will give up on the idea of a press.
  7. As someone getting older, I have been thinking about a forge press. Price seems rather prohibitive however. So thinking of going the homemade route. Problem with that is I have no fabrication or engineering skills. So was thinking about buying a cheaper H frame press ( https://www.harborfreight.com/50-ton-hydraulic-shop-press-96188.html for instance) and converting it. Think I could handle converting it to an electric motor and welding up some dies. Does this sound feasible or am I trying to ride a dead horse?
  8. I used lost foam casting and poured it from manganese bronze I ordered from Belmont metals. Client wanted it to look like gold so it was the best option I could find. The stones are low quality gems, but they are real. The scabbard shoulder stones are star rubies. The ones on the handle are called earth sapphires and the large green ones at the back of the handle are emeralds.
  9. Just finished this replica sword. Sassanian empire about 400-700 AD. I also made a wood scabbard with manganese bronze shoulder and drag. The symbols on the sides of the drag is the clients initials translated into Inscriptional Pahlavi. The written language of the day. Could not go to work because of the covid19 virus so had the time to finish it.
  10. 'Nother newb question. I have made a wall hanger blade for someone and would love to put a leaf electro-chemical etch design on the blade for him. Problem is I cannot find the right stencil for it and I am not an artist. Is there another way to accomplish this?
  11. I do have some more of the alloy. Problem is I only have a mig welder. Didn't know a handheld propane torch would get hot enough to melt it.
  12. Yikes! Used a lost foam technique and poured a bronze drag for a scabbard. There was a small dimple on the tip. I thought no problem, I will grind it away. But the more I ground the larger it got! Is there a way to fill this in or fix it somehow? Or am I condemned to have to start over? Could really use some help.
  13. Question for all u people out there smarter than me (which is likely most everyone). I have made a Sassanid historical sword for someone. He wanted it to look new but historically be accurate. The question is about the patina. I know they didn't use modern bluing or other current techniques, so did they patina the blades or just keep them oiled? I know antique blades get patina with age, but could not find any records that said if they were patinated when made. Anyone know?
  14. Success! Sold all the knives. My first knife sale. Made about 50 percent profit on them (does this mean I am a blade smith now?). Anywho, thanks for the help with patinas!
  15. Ok I get it. Thanks for the clarification. Now just need to find a ceramic crucible that holds about 3 or 4 kg in the shape of a bread pan. Hope they make such an animal or I might have to build a melting furnace.
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