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Tim Cook

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Everything posted by Tim Cook

  1. Had to post this. Its a replica from call of duty. Client wanted one badly. I have to admit, first knife that made me laugh a couple times while making it. That ever happened to anyone else?
  2. I have commissioned a knife that uses a "super" stainless steel that recommends cryo so I have been doing some research into it. Turns out liquid nitrogen just doesn't last, even in an approved container (dewar). For instance a 10 liter container would only last about 45 days. And the container is close to a 1000 bucks. Not worth it IMO unless u are doing a LOT of knives. It is about a negative 325ish degrees. Cpm-s90v recommends this temp. Dry ice and alcohol is around negative 100. So u need to consider the heat treat recommendations of your steel and the price before U dive in. I can say this tho, I've made several knives with 1095 and didn't do any cryo treatments on them.
  3. I guess anything is possible, but I've never heard of an oil that wasn't flammable? Anyway u do not want to use propane thru an acetylene hose. It will degrade it. Hence why its possible that the oily residue is from that interaction.
  4. Hmmm. I wonder if you are using an acetylene hose. I read grade T is what is recommended for propane (thought about buying one). When rubber break downs it leaves behind an oily residue type gunk. Course like Alan I'm guessing. You might also consider purging and cleaning out the tanks jic. Oxy and oil doesn't make a good combo.
  5. Take a bathroom scale and weigh it. Then buy it and say you need it because the scales said so.
  6. I lucked out and bought a bunch of old files and saw blades and other high carbon steel items at a yard sale. I went through them finally and found a weird looking file. I am thinking its an old farrier file of some type. Anyone know what it is? Spark test well but don't want to destroy it if it has some collectiblity for someone. Google didn't help and I have to admit I'm curious.
  7. That horse looks like its giving u lip for putting heavy weight on it lol.
  8. IR. I put the probe in the center(ish) of the forge, the contact has to be touching something. And the inside of forges (at least mine) will vary in temp depending on where u touch it. That is why I put mine in the center.
  9. This forge looks very similar to the one I built/use. I posted mine on this site just like u did. If you are going to be doing forge welding I would recommend making the firebox conical so flux will drain out and using bubble alumina in the bottom just up from the brick on both sides. Flux is fairly caustic will eat into a lot of materials. I used it on mine and the floor hasn't needed a single repair yet. I would also recommend a pyrometer. I used one in mine since I don't see color well and it has been very useful. With 3 burners and that much insulation you might have a tendency towards overheating. I just recently had issues with that while making canister damascus. Turns out just 200 degrees made a big difference. I will say this, your forge looks like its coming along nicely!
  10. Question for you intelligent blade-smiths. I have a client wanting a BIG fantasy knife (it is about 20 inches long). It needs a fuller that is about 3/4 inch wide and about 6 long. My grinder does not have a large contact wheel and I am not sure how to make it except using a curved piece of wood and a ton of sandpaper. Is there an easier way?
  11. I may be way off base here and making an idiot of myself but from what you said I assume you are talking about the "gun" style pyrometer. If u are talking steel while in the forge for forge welding and etc, I would recommend a type K thermocouple. They are used a lot in kilns. They read up to 2400F. Thru recent experience I found mine was pretty accurate.
  12. Leopardwood handle and brass guard. Blade is 52100 ball bearings and 1095 with nickel powder. Think it is the best knife I have ever made.
  13. Knives are finished. They came out pretty nice. Had enough for 2. Top knife handle is desert ironwood and the bottom is leopard wood. Both already sold too!
  14. I suspected it was too hot, but wasn't sure. Thanks for the confirmation everyone. I followed Alan's advice on the temp and stuck to keeping around 2200 degrees. It came out MUCH better. Only very small cracks in a few corners that should easily grind out!
  15. I did 3 total, with about 4 or 5 mild presses each. I just poured the ball bearings in about an inch deep. Then filled with powder. Used the sander to pack and kept going till the powder was at the top of bearings and would not pack anymore. Repeated till it was full. I got this idea from bear creek forge. He did it on youtube and it came out beautiful. He used it to make a big Bowie. The big difference is the can. If u notice it looks like it pretty much crumbled away or somehow vanished on me. I wonder if my pyrometer is reading low? Because 2500 degrees is listed as melting point on some stainless?
  16. Tried again. Tried to do everything y'all suggested. Got the forge to 2450F and did a gentle squeeze on the canister. Waited 1/2 hour between presses to make sure it was white hot enough (I wonder if too hot?). Also used thicker end caps on it and drilled a small hole this time also. The ends didn't pooch out. Used a sander to pack the can tightly. It was as tight as I could get it. Used same materials inside canister and used the same stainless angle iron to make the canister. I made a set if 1.5 inch squaring dies instead of the 1 inch to spread the pressure across the can. This is the humiliating result. Looks worse than first try. This can only had the very end peeled off. For some reason the stainless almost looks like it melted away ... I wonder if this could be the problem? I am clueless and ready to give up.
  17. Sure sounds like I oversquished. I used 2 inch canister and I made a set of 1 inch squaring dies. The ends of the billet didn't blow out but they were pooched out. Sound like I need 1.5 inch dies and a much gentler touch? Will have to get started on them. Will let y'all know what happens.
  18. That is problematic. Can't really get my forge hotter without modifications. May not have a choice tho. Hmm.
  19. I have watched it, couple times, lol. The canister was 1/8 inch thick 2 inch square stainless angle iron I welded into shape. Should I count the billet a loss or is there some way to recover it?
  20. Used g25 ball bearings and Jantz 1080 powder (with nickel).
  21. Question for anyone with lot of experience with canister. I am giving it my first attempt. However, when doing the pressing the canister split. I am wondering if this caused the multitude of cracks. The temp of the steel was a little over 2400 degrees. I have a pyrometer and was careful to keep it hot before pressing each time. Is this billet shot? Or is there a way to recover it? The pic shows how deep I ground it and I am still getting tiny cracks. The only good thing was it came out of the canister fairly easily. What do you experienced smiths think?
  22. Also some woods are less prone to moving than others.
  23. Tim Cook


    When I try to do fine motor activities my hand tremors a lot. Makes it harder to hold onto stuff and be accurate. So want to use a jig for long bevels and try to freehand easy/quick spots. I have been using a hinged handmade jig I built about 4 years ago on stuff I plan to sell, and practice by hand on other stuff.
  24. Tim Cook


    I have a difficult question. I was doing ok on learning to hand grind my knife bevels. But unfortunately I have had a bad surgical experience and have lost some strength and sensation in my right hand. My left hand is nothing to brag about either. Does anyone know of a bevel jig I can use that is accurate but does not require a strong grip and is easy to use? I refuse to give up.
  25. This may sound weird, but I have had some luck shopping at a pet store chain for horn/antler material. It perhaps might work for bone?
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