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Gareth Barry

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  1. Thanks Alan I think i know the stuff you are talking about- i actually did see some of the stuff at the scrap yard but avoided it because it looked unbelievably heavy for the yard or so length i would need. My plan was to use an exhaust sealant eg 'gun gum' over the welds to seal them. For the base plate i was just going to use a square plate of mild steel? Large than the pipe to stop it from falling over. In any case, i think ill take the flue pipe to him and see if he can weld it- if not ill pick up some of the well casing . Thanks again Gareth
  2. Ok so making a large quench tank for things like swords is a problem for me- couldn't find anything suitable at the scrap yard. There also arent things like artillery shells etc in my country that i can readily use. However, i did find a flue pipe for a chimney at the local hardware store. 2 problems however : 1. Its very thin steel, but i guess a friend with a tig welder will still be able to weld this- provided zinc is of course ground away in the area to be welded, which leqds me to my second point- 2. Is a galvanised pipe OK as a quench tank? I dont see the tank getting hot enoug
  3. Thanks Alan You confirmed what I had observed in the videos, ie that Matt and Illya are really at top of their game, and that the belt grinders they use are much larger than a 2 x 72, they look massive. On swords I have made in the past, I ground in narrow fillers by hand, and it was a PITA, so I am looking for a more efficient method. I am considering making up a jig to work with an angle grinder.
  4. I guess the tracking wheel is tapered to lesser extent, maybe I am worrying about nothing... If my concerns regarding belt deformation as it goes over a non flat surface are baseless, then why not just screw a narrow raised area onto the flat platten, made from delrin or something? Then the belt goes over the raised area on the platten, causing it to grind in a narrow manner? Sounds like a crazy idea, somebody please talk me out of it...
  5. OK so it's literally just a tapered contact wheel. My concern with a wheel that small is the high speed of rotation in terms of whether the bearings can handle it-no problem if you can vary the speed, which I can't. Hence myg thought is to use a tapered wheel, with a larger diameter. Still not sure if a standard belt can handle being deformed over a tapered wheel.
  6. Been watching Man At Arms - Matt sometimes uses a 'tapered' contact wheel when grinding fullers. This seems to me to have the advantage of reducing the speed of the contact wheel-which for me is an issue because my grinder only has one speed. It could also in principle grind much thinner fullers than a 2.5 inch wheel could. My question is, what is this type of contact wheel actually called, where can you find one and does it work with normal belts? I am thinking it might put stress on the belt. Thanks Gareth
  7. Thanks Alan I'll have a look at Sandvik in terms of local availability. Which of the Sandvik steels would you recommend for getting an active hamon, ie shallow hardening / water quench steels+
  8. Another question - I have noticed that a successful quench always gives a very characteristic grey colour- has anyone else noticed this? Finally, does anyone know which of the bohler tool steels are shallow hardening? Steels like 1060, 1095 aren't available in South Africa. The nearest thing I have been able to find is en9 (basically 1055). The goal is to create a hamon. Perhaps I should just persist with en45..The only thing I don't personally like about it is the very high austenisation temperature. Maybe it is possible to get an active hamon with this steel?
  9. Hmm.. Interesting... Well what I can say is that this steel does NOT heat treat and behave like 5160. The final performance I think might be similar. When I was even more of a newbie, I noticed that 5160 would slightly air harden with overly aggressive grinding. En45 doesn't seem to have this problem. This as well as the fact that it seems to survive a water quench without too much hassle, as well as that some are able to get a (fairly dull) hamon with en45, leads me to think it is much more shallow hardening than for eg 5160.
  10. Just to add, I also quenched a scrap blade from the same steel in water, and snapped it before tempering to see what I got- it was through hardened and brittle as glass.
  11. So i failed in my quest to differentially harden my en45 katana, although I did gain the right amount of sori I was hoping for. To cut a long story short, I finally ended up through hardening the blade with a water quench. I spoke to a local knife maker who told me that I wouldn't get full hardness with this steel in a water quench - if anything, due to the significantly faster quench, I was expecting perhaps slightly higher hardness with an increased risk of cracking? I guess I could get the blade hardness tested once life returns to normal, but in general, when quenching a steel in wat
  12. Thanks for the replies. Just to clarify, I am talking about the color of the steel almost immediately after the quench, around a second or so from lifting out the water and a couple of more seconds after lifting it from oil, taking on a very whitish gray color. This is before any sanding, grinding and cleanup. I did use my oven to temper, I wasn't really too concerned by the color. I have read that en45 requries a higher than normal austinising temp, so I tried to heat it as hot as my charcoal forge with a hair dryer can, perhaps its still not hot enough? However, why would the test pieces hav
  13. Hello all. I am trying to come grips with heat treating en45 spring steel. I previously heated and quenched a piece in water, which snapped easily with some pressure, telling me it hardened. I then quench a piece in brine, which cracked in numerous places, also hardened. Both test pieces showed very fine grain at the breaking point. My main point, In both cases, the steel took a sort of dull gray color, almost white, a very visible color change. Is this martensite? Now my actual knife, which I making as a gift for a friend, I quenched in warm canola oil. The steel took on exactly t
  14. Well, today the sword went to its new owner, which gave me mixed feelings of elation to see how ecstatic the new owner was, but on the other hand sadness to see it go! Anyway, I'm the end I really did reach the limit of my endurance with sanding, I guess if it were for myself k would've gone further than 400 grit. There are many things that I will do a whole bunch better the next time around, particularly, -flatter more even bevels -a more consistent shape to the saya -proper menuki -a better job with the Ito wrap. I used Buffalo horn for the kurikata, and Africa
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