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Adam C.

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Everything posted by Adam C.

  1. It started something a little less chef knife but burnt the tip during the heat treat in the forge. Dimensions soon enough.
  2. This one was made from the circular blade in the pictures. Handle material is black walnut and brass spacers and pins. I'll edit later for measurements. This is my 3rd actually finished knife. Bevels were made with the highly pinned jig. Heat treadted the best I could with unknown metal. Came out hard after a 2nd quench. The shape changed slowly over time and ended up as you see now. There are many areas of improvement but as I was leaving my current job and my friend is a co-worker I needed to finish sooner or never get him his gift. Opinions and further advice welcomed
  3. That's what I was thinking. I've done a lot of searching online. I've gotten very little info on the composition just the part number to order replacement parts.
  4. It's a sign! Vulcan demands tribute for the blessings!
  5. The best I can tell from finding the stamp while sorting through my pile. Ford 3L54 PB OW3 323C Tried digging around on the interwebs and the heat treated guide. Wanna start moving into the known steel world and not just half assing it with unknown. Thanks for any information! ~Adam
  6. The best I can tell from finding the stamp while sorting through my pile. Ford 3L54 PB OW3 323C Tried digging around on the interwebs and the heat treated guide. Wanna start moving into the known steel world and not just half assing it with unknown. Thanks for any information! ~Adam
  7. Gawd damn! That thing is beast! Excellent work on the rebuild. The whole time watching the video I was screaming in my head " BAM BAM BAM". The the control of it too. Went from slow even strikes to fast and accurate. Can't wait to see all that she does for you in the future! Forge on brother!
  8. Oh yeah big ol circular saw blade. Totally forgot to round off those edges that's my bad. Was meaning to but wasn't pacing myself.
  9. I recycled an old grill and lined it with 2600° bricks. Used fireplace cement to hold it to the walls. Ran the air intake through the bottom since there was a large enough hole there to start with. Used 1 1/2 black pipe and air is pumped in from an old greenhouse fan. I run charcoal in it, and if I want, and have melted some steel. Good luck!
  10. Just here to track my progress on this little project for a few friends as gifts and the metal shop that donated the blade. My awesome artwork! Heated up a test piece and quenched in a bucket of rain water. Hit it with a light hammer blow and it sheared cleanly. Not good at reading grain structure yet. But it did what was expected of a hardenable steel. Cut and ground to shape. Burnt the tip grinding, Whoops. Into the forge! 3 normalize cycles and a quench in hydraulic oil. Tested with a file and seemed legit. Into the easy bake temper oven for about 2 hours at 400°.
  11. Appreciate it! I'll just do stock removal and do a general heat cycle, harden, then heat treat. If all fails I can cut a bunch of templets.
  12. Melted it to high hell and back! Take it out after each use. Those blocks radiate heat for a good while!
  13. This was donated by a co-worker. It came out of a steel fabrication shop and wonder if it's worth going through the hassle. Got a blank cut out just curious if it's worth my time going further. 7" blank cut out. It's a big ol thing for free! And a pic of my charcoal forge for fun
  14. It's all lessons learned! I'm happy it worked! I have another hose lying around. I can also just rotate it on it's side. I'll begin the slow building of a better enclosed and insulated model here soon enough. Thanks for all the help. Hopefully, my issues will help others build theirs with few to no issues.
  15. The forging God's are fickle beings! Swung by my local hardware store and got the orifice needed. Huzzah! Was able to heat up some 1075 and start working a tip in to test heat up time between forgings. Only issue is I believe the orifice wasn't tapped straight. But it still was able to crank out the heat needed. After some light forging I turned off the gas to let it cool down to bring back inside. Came back out for a smoke and found the supply line (braided stainless steel) made for propane cookers had melted at the connection from the brass female swivel flare connection. App
  16. Umm it's a fairly breezy day, but even with the back wall removed, it's still basically a box with flames bellowing out in all directions. Valve set to lowest and slowly increased till i was worried. My only assumptions are: 1) the forging God's want me to stick with charcoal. 2) not all bootleg forges are the same 3) there is a space time anomaly inside the forge box and is preventing it from operation
  17. Wide open and it's not a stream or focused heat source
  18. I did the adjustment on the choke. Started with closed and worked it open slowly. Final picture was with choke taken off. Also controlled gas flow as well with ball valve. I'll finish this cigarette and poke around with it again.
  19. Ok, that gives me a guideline to work with. I'll source some scrap black pipe and flare it out. But no objections with the ball valve and the nipple and elbow. Used the highest gas rated thread tape I could get. I know not to tape flare fittings. I'll be doing test runs and post any results
  20. So finally acquired a fryer burner and did a test run. Well first gas came out and was ignited and ran! Only issue I noticed was I wasn't getting the blue flame as what was in the video. I'm assuming that I have too much oxygen or not enough propane. Had flames (orange/yellow) coming out the front pretty heavily. This was proof of concept but any advice on how to get that more blue flame. The regulator is 0-30 PSI. Any and all in put is welcomed!!!
  21. Straight up copied and modified! Blower hunt begins! Set a cut block on the backside. It's not permanently set, but held lightly by the angle iron. I do have some premade refractory cement that I'd like to line the seams. I'm super excited at how easy this was!
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