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Everything posted by Faye

  1. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Faye Lankister
  2. So I have this fillet knife forged out and roughly shaped the way I want it, but I'm not sure what I need to do with it next. It is 1/16" thick, and 10 1/2" overall length, made out of a saw blade. I am not sure just how tall the bevels need to be. If it is 1/16" thin do they need to be a full flat grind? I have a love hate relationship with my grinder, I usually end up taking more material than I want just to fix my mistakes, so on something so thin it makes me really nervous to take it to the grinder for very long. And on that note is 1/16" even a good thickness? As apparent, I don't know much about fillet knives, don't even like fishing, but I have a hard time saying no, so here I am. Any advice would be welcomed.
  3. 1. Alex Middleton 2. Conner Michaux 3. Will Wilcox 4. Chad Scott 5. John King 6. Faye Lankister
  4. Faye

    Baby Seax

    Haha, thank you for the compliment. Maybe in another ten years or so. Thanks, I'll remember that next time.
  5. Faye

    Baby Seax

    Thank you Alan. I am very glad I found out about Audra too, I have fellow bladesmith Jay Nickels to thank for that. Thank you, it's called a phantom diamond, one of Audra's specialties.
  6. Faye

    Baby Seax

    Some people might remember my first "Seax knife" that was actually a tanto... This is my second atempt, much better considering I sharpened the right side this time. My grandparents wanted something to display on the mantle, I thought this one would do nicely. The blade is 1080 and 15n20, with a brass guard, elk antler spacer with black fiber gaskets, and brazilian ebony. Overall length is 8 1/2", with a blade length of 4". I made this in master bladesmith Audra Drapers shop, under her close supervision. Hope you all enjoy.
  7. Faye

    FL Forge EDC's

    Kinda makes the other one look plain.:) Thank you. That is actually the first file work I've ever done on a knife. On the configuration of the second one, it is a hidden tang and I just took a silver dollar sized piece of brass, slotted a hole in the middle of it and soldered it on.
  8. About a week ago I received my maker's mark stamp from Steel Stamps Inc. they did great work and we're really fast getting my order done, one week from the time I finalized my order to the time it was shipped out. These knives are the first to have the FL Forge official mark on them. The first is 1080 steel with walnut scales, brass pins and black fiber liners.it measures 5 1/2" overall, with a 2 3/4 blade. If I had to change something about this one, I would put less of a kink in the handle to make it easier to use the back part of the blade. The second one is also 1080 steel, with a brass guard, red fiber spacer and African Blackwood. I am super happy with how the color contrast came out in the handle. The overall length is 5", with a 2 1/4" blade. As always input and critiques are more than welcomed.
  9. Faye

    Stone cast bronze

    So less like a baseball more like a mushroom:D
  10. Faye

    Stone cast bronze

    I kinda feel the same way, but it feels good in the hand and since the blade is as heavy as it is it seems to give a sense of balance when you hold it, so that's why I decided to leave it.
  11. Faye

    Stone cast bronze

    Went through some serious head banging moments with getting the fit right, but it turned out to be really fun once I got it started right. I used Applewood for the handle, they were the only blocks of wood I had around that were wide enough to work, and brass pins. The two top holes in the tang were unfortunately drilled lopsided before I received the blade. I attached the pommel by pins and epoxy.
  12. Faye

    Stone cast bronze

    Thank you for that link. That answered my question about how to work around the domed area.
  13. My grandfather was gifted this Stone cast bronze sword by some of his students, but as it doesn't have a handle he asked me to give it one. My grandparents are very historical minded, my grandmother is a historian, so I really would like to put a historically accurate handle on this sword. That said I'm not sure what kind of sword this is, other than something from the Greek/Roman era. Any insights are very appreciated, on style, material, ect... What really has me stumped is that the front two pin holes are on a thick domed surface and I'm not sure what to do with that because I'm a little hesitant to take it to the grinder. Demensions are... 21 1/2" overall length. 3 1/2" from the top of the front two pin holes to the back of the handle. 1" wide at the widest part of the handle. Again, any and all help is appreciated. Happy Easter, and thanks for looking.
  14. Yeah the pin placement wasn't supposed to be like that. I had to work around some pre-existing pinnholes that were in really bad spots on the very edge of the tang, and there was some bad planning on my part.
  15. Thank you, it does work very nicely, and I'm very happy with it. The scales are oak.
  16. This began life as a leaf spring and then was repurposed for an American style tanto but got to be too thin, 2mm at widest, and as I don't know anyone who fishes and would use a fillet knife I turned it into a very slicey kitchen knife. The wood is oak and the pins brass. I tried to do a mustard patina on it, my first time attempting one, but I did it before I buffed it so it's barely there anymore. Overall length is 9", with 5" of blade and 4" of handle. Thank you for looking, critiques and advise are more than welcome.
  17. Thank you for pointing that out Joel, I should put that on a wall, make my handles bigger, everyone tells me that. Me and my small hands need to remember that we make knives for other people too.
  18. Thank you Tim, the knife that originally started this thread has already been forged out, but I appreciate the information. Seeing as this is my own thread I think it will be okay if I hijack it, right? My grandparents have asked for a kitchen knife that they can display on their mantle and I was thinking it should be a chef's knife. So in the mindset of a display worthy knife I came up with this design... The total length is 12 1/2", 5"for the hanlde and 7 1/2" for the blade. The very base of the blade is 2" wide. If you have any critiques for me, they would be appreciated. You can probably tell from the eraser marks in the picture that this has gone through multiple redesigns but this is the one I like best and wanted to run by someone who knows what they're looking at.
  19. I think this is awesome! Absolutely stunning! Showed it to my dad, who is a retired journeyman farrier, and he thought it was epic too, especially that flawless finish on the brass!
  20. The edge is already thin enough to cut. Thank you all for the input. Doug I think that's exactly what this is going to become, a kitchen slicer, after a good reprofiling on the grinder.
  21. So I'm working on a tantoish style blade for a customer who wants it for an all around outside using knife, cutting hay strings, whittling, and self defense. The blade is ready for heat treating, the steel is leaf spring, and it's about 12" long. My concern is that it's only 2 mm at the widest part of the spine, so it's pretty flexible. Is that too thin to be functional? Should I scrap it and start over? Any advice would be appreciated.
  22. I designed myself a makers mark a while ago, but only recently used it on a blade. I'm going to see if I can get it in a stamp, this one was engraved on the blade, so it's not exact.
  23. Thank you Josh. Thank you for all of the compliments.
  24. For the last four days I've been working in the Draper's shop in one of their knife making classes, learning the tricks of the trade, and in that time this is the blade I made under their supervision. It is 124 layers in a random pattern with a brass guard and kings wood for the handle. It measures 4 and a 1/4'' on the blade and 8 and a 1/2'' overall. It is my own design, inspired by the Scottish dirk. I really can't say enough about how amazingly helpful Audra and Mike are, they taught me so much and not just how they do things, but how I can do everything in my own shop even without all the cool tools. Super great people, super great teachers, and some of the best food and company you can get.
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