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Faye

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Everything posted by Faye

  1. It is intended to be my KITH contribution. I suppose my biggest issue with it is that it's not exactly what I was going for. Not to mention it is not perfectly centered with the blade. The good news is that it has to sit around the way it is for a good while before I can get back to my shop.
  2. Made it back to my shop for a half day and shaped the handle. I tweeked my handle shaping process, but still need to acquire some serious patience. Though I like the general look of the handle right now it lacks that simple elegance that makes it look right. It seems a bit too wide and blocky. I know if it looks wrong it probably is wrong, but I thought I'd see if you guys thought it could be fixed with the material thats left or if I should cut it off and start over.
  3. Progress on the seax. After a couple failed handles I glued one up. It just kills me that this is sitting back in my shop waiting to be finished. It's so close! Soon...
  4. Thank you both. Its been really fun so far, and I got invited to the neighbors shop were they make some knives, so I might have access to a closer shop. We will see.
  5. I thought about using a baffle tube but at the time did not have anything that would fit in my forge. It seems the cards were stacked against this project from the start. Or maybe adulting is against it? Anyway originally. I had until the middle of june to finish these knives, but the guy I am going to work for this summer asked if I could start a month early. So I now live two hours away from my shop. Fingers crossed I'll have a few weekends at home and I can at least finish the seax knife, but it will definitely be a while.
  6. I was using the forge to begin with, but consistently got the blades too hot. I switched to the torch and have had better luck. Using a torch also makes it easier to heat the oil up without getting a ton of slag in it.
  7. Non magneticish, I heat the blade with a torch in the dark so I can see the colors better and I usually go for a dull orange.
  8. I normalized it three times and the white lines are gone. Thank you guys. I'll make sure to normalize more and not leave things in the forge to cool. Can you use this for heat treating too? Or does it mess with hardening it?
  9. There are no pits. The steels are 15n20 and 1080. It is pre HT, without normalization. What I do after I finish forging is put the blade in the forge, bring it to heat and then turn everything off. I let the forge cool over night and take the blade out in the morning. That's my annealing process, but this is the first time I've done it with Damascus. That's the closet I get to normalizing.
  10. So this was kinda supposed to be a surprise, but I think I ran into a problem. The seax knife is 124 layer random pattern Damascus. While grinding I kept noticing fuzzy white lines up by the spine, all the way at the back of the knife on both sides. On the right bevel there is also a thinner white line running about half an inch above the edge. Though it's hard to see even when etched. I don't know enough about Damascus to know if this is a catastrophic flaw or mostly an asthetic flaw.
  11. Unfortunately, I don't have any old white ware laying around either. I see where the non-flammable template would come in handy though. The edc is a revised version of my personal edc. After carrying this little knife for about a year, I made a list of things I liked and didn't like and drew up a design based on that list. The steel is 124 layer Damascus made in one of Audra's classes. I wanted to try patterning, so I used a chisel clamped upward in a vice and a small ball peen hammer. The chisel head was a little small and pointed. Next time I am going to use a wider chisel and maybe go a little deeper.
  12. I actually saw that video a while back and ever since have photo copied my drawings and put clear tape on both sides of the paper and cut them out. That's what I use for my templates and I can trace them out on the anvil with a soap stone when I forge. However, I have never made a template out of steel because I don't have any flat steel laying around. What is the reason behind making a steel template? I won't make excuses for my poor forging, it's usually much better, I got a little over zealous and tried to turn two 2" by 3/4" peices of steel into blades at the same time without a power hammer. I should have broke it into two forging sessions. But instead of grinding the profiles in, I cut the largest chunks off and will turn them into jewelry. I happily discovered today that my patterning did not entirely fail. I have my doubts that the raindrops will still be there after the bevels are ground in but it's a cool pattern right now anyway. After reading the presentation that Alan directed me to, I made some slight adjustments to the seax blade measurements based off the specs on page 40, I believe.
  13. Thank you Alan, that is a good presentation.
  14. Here is a picture of the blades forged out. The top one is the ladder pattern Damascus that was already forged and profiled. I have quite a bit of profiling to do on the others, I tend to forge large, but my excuse on the edc is I tried some patterning. I think I determined that my attempt at patterning was unsuccessful though. I was going to try to forge the clip point today, but I am considering doing a puuko instead. Yesterday I had a friend ask if I would like to make one and since the clip point doesn't have anywhere to go I can do it another time.
  15. My two cents on the conversation, from a naive youngster, I think that historical accuracy is primarily important if the end product is intended to be historically accurate. Therefore the biggest problem is a product that claims historical ties whilst not complying with history. Names have ties with history. If someone made a knife that had the blade of a seax, a D guard and Bowie handle, and they called it either a Bowie or seax then they have labeled it inaccurately and connect something entirely different to something with rather defined traits. However, if they were to give it a different name without previous ties then there are fewer issues. For me on this knife, I want to call it historical accurate. I would also like you guys to know that I have no issues with anything you have said or suggested. I whole heartedly appreciate the information and philosophy, and I have not made any changes to the design that I did not agree with after some consideration. All that aside, I went to the shop today and forged out the edc and the seax the way I wanted them, using the second blade shape from my last post for the seax knife.
  16. The blade and handle are both 5" long, yes. The tang is going to be a hidden tang design. I do want to be reasonable historically accurate on the seax, especially because it might go to some who really knows the difference. So here is the altered blade shape. Or something more like this... Now that I actually took the time to put my idea together and get the ball rolling, I received an email announcing that the hammer in is cancelled. However, since most of these knives already have destinations, I am going to continue on.
  17. Awesome, thank you Zeb.
  18. So it is best to ditch the spacer, but if I go with an antler bolster does it need to be a through tang? I was looking at Mr. Carrillo's seax collection in his recent post and noticed that all multi piece handles seemed to have through tangs, but I am not sure if that's a historical point or just a style. On the handle shape, is this better?
  19. It is, but I suddenly get the feeling that seax's aren't supposed to have spacers...
  20. As I am planning on attending the Big Sky Conference/hammer in this year, I put together a collection of knife designs that I hope to take with me to the hammer in as completed knives. I have no grand expectations for the small blade show, most of these blades already have places to go, but I would like to take a good selection of my best work to show and receive feedback on. There is one three finger EDC that might be Damascus, a fighter with an oval guard, a drop point ladder pattern Damascus, and a baby seax style knife that will be my kith entry. My biggest goal with these knives is to design them well before hand, and stick to the design as closely as possible throughout the making process (particularly on the handles). The drop point Damascus has already been forged and profiled, though not by me, while the other three exist solely on paper. I have drawn up some designs to the best of my abilities and submit them to the experts for review Thank you.
  21. Thank you, sir. It is intended to be more of a veggie chopping knife. It slides through patatoes like a hot knife through butter, but I have to rock it to cut the corners because there isn't a flat spot on the edge.
  22. The blade is forged from a horseshoe rasp, with a Gerhard Gerber style micata bolster, and padauk wood. The blade is 4 1/2" long, 1 3/4" wide, and 1/16" thick. It's slices really well. Handle is 4 3/4" long. I followed Joel Mercier's directions for a mustard patina. I did not use any clay when I heat treated the blade, but I got a very defined hardened line. Not sure if I can technically call it a hamon or not. The saya is also made from padauk wood, with brass pins and a black felt liner. This was my first time using padauk wood, and though I really like the color it has a very coarse grain which kinda bugs me. I almost think the cutting edge needs less curve to it too so that there is more contact with the cutting board. Thoughts and critiques are very welcomed.
  23. Wherever you would like to put it sir. I look forward to it though. Thank you for taking the time to be so helpful.
  24. Thank you. My Great Grandfather got that stitching horse for my mom when she was my age.
  25. To be perfectly honest, that handle is nothing like my original design. Shaping handles is one area of knifemaking that I haven't established a good routine for. With this one I was grinding along, and getting ahead of myself until I realized I no longer had enough material to do my original design. That is how it ended up being so wimpy. I have considered taking it back up to the shop and taking the curve farther up into the guard area so that the index finger has a solid place to be. My only hesitation is maybe making the front of the handle to small, or grinding down into the tang hole. I also agree with you on the blacksmith knife. That one had its own set of challenges that I could expound upon. Thank you for your honest critique, I really appreciate it.
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