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Everything posted by Faye

  1. You are right. I would not like to see it down the road, so I did opt to make a new knife for the customer. I am going to finish this one for my own kitchen though and see how it works.
  2. This one is a commissioned piece for a benefit auction put on by the His Cavvy Foundation. Material is 52100, brass and desert Ironwood. Blade length is 2 7/8" handle is 3 3/4". I made a right handed cross draw sheath for it, as they are very popular in the cowboy world, and I made the knife handle very slender so it will fit close to the body and not be in the way of elbows, saddle horns or chaps. Originally, I made three blades of this design for three different orders. One broke when I tried to stamped it, the other broke when I tried to beat the guard on, and naturally the only survivor had the ugly stuttered stamp on it. With a hard fast deadline of next week and not quite enough material to comfortable grind it out and restamp, I'll have to live with that flaw. Other than that though, I'm very happy with how this knife came out.
  3. The edge thickness is 0.025 with a slight convex grind. So it might be possible to recover some weight and feel with some heavier handle material, particularly with a thicker chunck of metal for the bolster.
  4. Makes me wish Tennessee was closer. That is a fabulous little knife. I love the micro Damascus and the color of the hot blued mainspring up against the bronze.
  5. So I forged out a kitchen knife the other day from 2" x 1/8" and it came out pretty thin. I opted to leave a forge finish to retain as much thickness as I could. It warped like crazy in HT despite my best efforts. I got most of the waves out in tempering, and ground the rest of them out, but now the knife is about 0.065" at the base of the spine. It is 7 1/2" long with a 2" heel. This knife was supossed to be for a customer, but I'm concerned I've hit the too thin mark. Should I send it to the customer with a note not to do anything stupid with it, or keep it in my own kitchen and see how many watermelons I can cut before it breaks?
  6. Nice to have you back Zeb! For the first time in my knife making career I am going to have a fully funtional vice in the shop. Picked up an indian chief a few days ago and gave it some TLC. It's a little rough around the edges, but it has a handle so that's a step up from what I have. No more dropping vice grips on my toes! Or at least less often.
  7. I had an unfortunate morning. While stamping some blades forged from 52100 I had one break. Very unusual for me, given how thick it is and that I was stamping on a flat ricasso. I also effectivly detroyed my makers mark stamp in the process. I thought the dramatic change in grain structure rather intresting, and the grain structure as a whole disappointing, given that I gave it a good thermal cycling after forging.
  8. @Gazz I heard something similar mentioned at the class I attended, using a wheel barrow wheel for the foot control. I would like to make one, just not sure where to squeeze it in the shop without creating a large obstacle to the things I use more often.
  9. Been practising a little. Still a long way to go, but this one kinda looks like a scroll.
  10. I believe that is what he called it.
  11. The paint on the handle was the biggest dislike. Design and use don't bother me, but the finish totally killed my artistic side. I like making pretty knives, with complementary colors and shiny finishes. This one seemed totally bland and turned an enjoyable new project into something I just wanted to be done with. Just personal preference. That almost backfired. The knife was warm enough that it started to melt the ice, and the ice was pretty thin so the photo session ended very quickly.
  12. A shop magnet and my 72" belt grinder. It's not as centered as it should be, I didn't think to mark the center until I realized it was off center. Only the top is sharpened. The 'spine' has a false edge. It is supossedly a design developed by an undercover narcotics cop for tight quarter combat. The idea is pulling a blade up to make a wound bigger is easier because it uses stronger muscles than pushing down or sideways.
  13. So a friend from church asked me to make a self defense knife of his design. There is a specific name for it but I don't remember what it is. The only thing I enjoyed about this build was the challenge of forging the handle to shape. I put some Indian rosewood scales on it and had it nice and shiny when he said he planned to paint the handle with truck bed liner to make it 'grippy' and 'non reflective'.Oh the self control it took not to tell him what I thought of that. So after a long internal struggle, instead of letting him bastardize a knife with my makers mark, I painted it myself and gave it a patina to tone down the reflectivness. Despite my qualms about the knife, at the end of the day the customer is happy and I have gas money to go to my ornamentation class. I don't plan on adding this one to the portfolio I show to other customers though. It's part of my skill set now, but not my kind of style.
  14. That is beautiful!! Love the guard.
  15. I made some red neck gravers out of some cut masonary nails and tried my hand at some caveman engraving on the end of some copper round stock. Spent maybe four minutes on it is all. I'm signed up for a bit and spur ordamentation class in a few weeks and they are gonna teach silver/gold inlay and soldering, among other things. I got an email saying to bring my hammer and chisels, and somehow I didn't think they meant my rounding hammer and hot chisels. I'll play with these over the next week and refine the graver shapes and sizes. I think I'll use my notebook and pencil more at the class though.
  16. I got a wild hair and decided to make a bit. The knife maker in me messed it up and made it super straight, thin, and light. My horse said the mouth piece needs some slight adjustment too. I lost count of how many times I sanded the shanks and mouth peice and then soldered or welded something to it and had to resand. Or I melted the copper inlays out and had to redo those. I had to make the shanks twice too. Learning new processes is always fun. It makes me appreciate making knives.
  17. Thank you all for the compliments. I can see that. The back half has a pretty dramatic tear drop shape that flares back out just before the end of the handle. So it doesn't feel bulky, but the profile does look like it could benefit from a deeper finger groove. I'm a little foggy on this terminology. If it's refering to knuckle clearance, it's great.
  18. This knife I made just to practice kitchen knife geometry. It is forged from a persian ribbon billet with twist borders. It might have been a nice knife had the resident knifemaker remembered to fish mouth weld the billet first. oh well. I ground it to 0.095 at the widest part of the spine, and 0.007 at the edge before heat treat. By a pure miracle, it survived heat treat without any hick ups. After clean up at 220 grit, I took it to 400 on a slack belt to convex the bevels a little. Not sure if I got a true convex grind on it, it's probably more like a convex on the bottom 1/4", but I didn't have a whole lot of material to mess with at that point. I sanded it to 600 and etched it. In stead of scrubbing the oxides off with a Q-tip when etching and buffing the blade after, I tried lightly sanding with 2000 grit in between etch cycles. After that I just put oil on it. The handle is brass and big leaf maple burl. The guard is press fit, one of my first press fit guards. One side looks pretty nice, the other leaked a little epoxy out a pin hole gap and I missed it before it dried. Specs are: Blade length- 5 3/4" Width at heel- 1 7/8" Handle measured from the back of choil- 4 1/2" Things I would do differently on the next one. Fish mouth weld the billet :D. The edge profile is a little dramatic, it would be better a little straighter, more like the line of the spine. The handle is a little short, and the swell is to far back. I also etched it pretty deep and that causes a little drag when cutting. Overall, I am happy with how it came out, it cuts really well and looks nice. I made it just for fun and learning and accomplished most of what I wanted, but failed in enough that I have an excuse for another fun project. Thoughts and critiques are welcomed.
  19. After wrangling a stray alignment pin back into place, I got the handle shaped and sanded today, but forgot to get a picture before I took the guard off. I'm really excited for this one to be done. It should be a slicer, with a 0.095 spine, a zero edge, and something like a convex grind. I'm messing around with different geometry than I'm used to, we will see if it works.
  20. Faye

    Rancher edc

    Thank you Dave. I could have cleaned up the ricasso a little more for sure. One of these days I'll get a smaller stamp for my smaller knives. Thank you for the tip on the plunge lines. I struggle with those, especially getting them right where I want them. That will definitely help. There is a reason this knife does not have a choil. One of the primary uses for this knife will be castrating calves at brandings. My dad adopted a knife I made several years ago as his cutting knife, and it has a choil that he mentions at least once a year as being the knife's only flaw. So that is the reason behind the design for this particular knife.
  21. Faye

    Rancher edc

    Your planning diligence puts mine to shame, but it inspires me to think more and do better. Thank you.
  22. Faye

    Rancher edc

    I'm pretty sure I knew what you were going to say before I finished it. I get making the tang thinner to accommodate pin placement, but how thin would you go? This knife was 9/16" wide at the ricasso and I had a 5/32" hole drill halfway down the tang that landed smack between the two front pins. I made it as thin as I could without losing the back half of the tang. If that hole hadn't been there though, how thin would you be comfortable making it, especially with a thin and soft frame? I had to read that whole last section a couple times before the light bulb came on and I understood it. In my defense I hadn't been awake for very long the first time I read it though. Now that the synapses have connected it makes sense. It's a little backwards to the typical order, but I can see how that would makes things alot easier. Especially drilling the holes by clamping it to the bottom of the drill plate. I have some mammoth ivory that I will use someday when I get the courage, and that trick is definitely gonna make it less nerve wrecking.
  23. Faye

    Rancher edc

    They are. That was as far in as I could get them without going through the tang, it is not exactly a knife design that makes a frame tang easy. The back ones I moved a little farther in for structural peace of mind.
  24. Faye

    Rancher edc

    Thank you. I used multiple coats of food grade mineral oil.
  25. Faye

    Rancher edc

    480 layer damascus with brass, african blackwood and cow bone. This is the first time working with cow bone for a knife handle, it was specially requested by the rancher who comissioned the knife. I kinda counted on it being a lot thicker, but when I cut into it I had to do some quick thinking and went with a frame tang. Perhaps a little unorthodox but it gave it a cool look. Glue up was a mess and things didn't end up in prefect alinment unfortunately, but its slight enough I can live with it. The blade is 3" and the handle is 3 3/4" Thanks for looking, critique is welcomed.
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