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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

Paul Carter

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  1. My latest knife made from 5160 leaf spring

    Thank you!
  2. My latest knife made from 5160 leaf spring

    Around here, the spring shops only charge like .50 cents a pound for old leaf springs. Most automotive coil springs are also 5160. The metallurgist from our school says that Toyotas from the 90's and early 2000's have the best 5160 leaf springs out of all she has tested.
  3. My latest knife made from 5160 leaf spring

    Thanks!
  4. My latest knife made from 5160 leaf spring

    Thank you!
  5. My latest knife made from 5160 leaf spring

    I did not know that. That is good to know, Thanks! Does African black wood need to be stabilized?
  6. My latest knife made from 5160 leaf spring

    Actually, I did not use a flash. My camera phone doesn't have a flash. That was just light reflecting from my kitchen lights. Next time I'll try to get pics outside.
  7. Here is a knife I made out of a piece of 5160 steel cut from a cars leaf spring. I made the guard from copper and brass plates glued together with blue and purple epoxies, held in place by two 1/4" copper dowel pins. Handle is made from Ebony hardwood. A brass, and a copper pin hold handle in place with epoxy dyed black. Spine of knife was blued with a torch without heating the edge by making a trough from aluminum foil and filling it with heat barrier gel, then submerging the edge in it while heating. I would be interested in hearing of other ways to turn a blade blue without using gun bluing as it turns steel more black than blue. As an experiment, I etched this blade in Ferric chloride after heat treat to see what would happen to 51 series steel. It left behind these spots that look gold in color when viewed in the light. Might just be rust spots but they don't seem to be rust. Any rate, it makes the blade look old so I left it as I like the look. This is the 7'th knife I've made. I've been experimenting with different handle types. This handle is heavy, but I like it as all the weight is in your hand so it makes it feel like there is no blade on it when handling it. Overall length is 10.625". Blade width is 1 1/4". Blade length is 5 3/4". Weight is .85 lbs or 386 grams.
  8. My camping chopper knife

    Be my guest!
  9. My camping chopper knife

    Knife weighs in at 1.05 lbs., or 479 grams, and it's .140 thick.
  10. My camping chopper knife

    Thanks! I really love making the pattern welded stuff, and can't wait to make some more this coming month.
  11. My camping chopper knife

    Thanks! The blade from tip to plunge line is 9". From tip to handle it's 10". Handle is 5 1/4" x 1 3/4", 7/8". Handle is kind of big for most people, but I have big hands so I made it to fit me. I'll have to weigh it at work tomorrow, but I'm guessing it's about a pound to a pound and a half. The handle is kind of heavy with the copper pins so it makes the blade feel very light and it swings and recovers well.
  12. My camping chopper knife

    Here is a camp chopper knife I made from a 12 layer Damascus billet I made from 4 layers each of 1095, 1084, and 15N20 steels. I just did an edge quench on this. The handle is made from stabilized walnut, with copper pins. Knife is very well balanced, straight, and feels light in the hands. It's kind of like a Kukri, but not quite. It's very sharp and chops great. I chopped up a piece of hard Eucalyptus branch with it and it chopped very well, and didn't loose it's edge at all, and would still slice paper and shave hair afterwards. I left some imperfections in it to give it an older, hand forged look. This is the 6'th knife I have made.
  13. Are these metals compatable for forge welding together

    Thanks for the suggestions! I will keep all these things in mind on the next project.
  14. Are these metals compatable for forge welding together

    So, if I understand you correctly, you're saying that by sanding it so smooth before HT, the surface is so smooth that when I try to re-sand after HT to remove the black stuff, I'm not removing any steel, just the blackness, but leaving a layer of de-carb on it that just isn't obvious to the eyes. So, by only sanding to 400 grit or so, the surface is still rough enough that when I re-sand after HT I have the high spots to sand off to get into the good stuff. That actually makes sense now that I think about it like that. I'll have to try that on my next one I finish. I have 2 more 120 layer knives to put an edge on and HT, then etch. These are all good suggestions that I will certainly make the most of. If anyone else has anything else to add, I'm all ears.
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