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Paul Carter

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Paul Carter last won the day on December 5 2020

Paul Carter had the most liked content!


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    Tucson, Arizona
  • Interests
    Making knives and Damascus. Japanese knives/swords. Performance engines. Pontiacs.

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  1. On a side note, I have found that by placing the 15N20 on the outsides of the stack, it pits much less than the 1080 from scale. This makes grinding much easier and less steel wasted.
  2. Nice looking knife! You think Ebony smells weird, wait until you do ironwood. It smells just like the inside of an outhouse.
  3. Where would one order a makers mark stamp from? Thanks in advance!
  4. I too do not use flux. I sand them much finer than others do apparently though. I go to at least 400 grit. I clean and stack, then fusion weld it either in stitches, or sometimes all the way around until it's solid with no gaps. If I weld all the way around, I don't use anything on it. If I stitch it, I spray it down good with WD-40. Then into the forge. I heat until the entire billet is one solid bright orange color[if the center still has some darkness too it, it's not hot enough], then give it another 10 minutes from there, and set the welds. Haven't had a bad weld yet in over 60 Damascus blades. I prefer to do a lot of layers at once so I don't have to re-stack much. You loose a lot of steel everytime you re-stack. So far, the highest layer count I started with is 48, made from 5 different steels, the thickest being .100", but most were in the 1/16" range. No inclusions or delaminations.
  5. I opened the can of coffee/lemon juice I mixed up back in November, and it has a small spot of mold starting to form on the lid. When I kept just the coffee in my fridge, it would only last a few weeks to a month before getting moldy. Also, I find the coffee/lemon juice etch before I do a final temper, gives a rainbow of colors on the blade if I temper at 430° or more for a couple hours. Really gives the blades a unique colored look that I haven't seen anywhere else.
  6. I use half a bottle of instant coffee mixed in about a jars worth of water, then I add some lemon juice to it. Coffee by itself would take an hour to hour and a half but with lemon juice it cuts the time down to about 15 minutes. They come out dark. I've noticed too that certain steels etch darker than others. 1084 etches dark while 1095 and 52100 don't etch as dark. I think it has to do with manganese amounts. The more manganese, the darker they seem to get. Since I've been mixing lemon juice in my coffee, it has yet to grow mold.
  7. According to that guy, it was the hardest thing he'd seen. The guy brought him a piece at the trade show and said, let me see you drill through this. So he did, but he said it took a while. Then he asked the guy what it was. The guy grinned and said bedframe rail. Whether it really was or not, I guess we'll never know, but that's what the guy told him. I know those things are hard.
  8. I have never personally used these drill bits but when we were at an engine builders convention in Florida, we were setup right next to these guys and I watched them drill through about everything you can imagine with these. Files, bearing races, taps, dies, easyouts, ball bearings, you name it, they were drilling through it. They now sell the bits individually and not that much money. A 1/4" x 4" will run $10.50, according to their website. They did say that you need to spin them fast, so you need to have a drill or drill press that is fast. Their website probably shows minimum speeds recommended. The guy also told me that the hardest thing he ever had to drill with them was a bedframe rail. He said it took him about 5 minutes to drill through that. https://baddogtools.com/product/z-loosesingle-multi-purpose-drill-bits/
  9. The test piece was .169" thick. I keep hearing people mention the grain should look like talcum powder. Well, that's about the best way I can describe this grain structure. Thanks guys!
  10. I made a hunting knife for my cousin out of 80CrV2. I had a piece about 2.5"-3" long left over so I thought I would test my heat treat program for it. Here is how I did it. 1. Put in cold oven and took it to 1600° and held for 2 minutes and removed to cool in still air until no red color at all showing in the dark. Then back into oven. 2. Held it at 1500° for 5 minutes, then cooled in still air, then back in oven. 3. Held at 1425° for 5 minutes, then cooled again and returned to oven. 4. Held at 1325° for 5 minutes, cooled and returned to oven. 5. Held at 1100° for 5 minutes and then left to cool to room temp. Then I heated back to 1600° and soaked for 5 minutes and quenched in Canola oil. After it came to room temp, I clamped it into a vice to hit it with a hammed and break it. I whacked it 20 or so times pretty damn hard and couldn't break it. So I pulled out my phone and videoed me beating on it some more and the video shows what happened. LMAO! It's pretty damn funny! Anyway, the piece of steel never did break. It didn't even bend. I ended up clamping it in another heavier duty vice, between three pins, and proceeded to clamp away and when I got to about the point where I couldn't turn the handle anymore, the steel exploded. Here is a picture of the grain. What do you think? It looks pretty good to me, but I'm no expert in examining grain structures. WP_20210213_009.mp4
  11. Here are the two knives I started this thread about. Finished them both around Christmas time. The Yellow handle one is my Moms and the Purple my Son-in-laws. My mothers has a very fine edge on it for slicing and dicing. I must say, it is by far the sharpest knife I ever made. I sliced a big soft tomato that was half gone, into 1/16" slices with it. The purple one has an edge more for heavier chopping and cutting. I learned a few things about chefs knives while making these. I lowered the tip on the purple handle knife as recommended by a board member here. That helped a lot. Also, while I was grinding the profile of the curve for the edge(well, for the spine too, as far as that goes), I set it on the flat table for my band saw and rocked it from the heel to the tip. I noticed that there were spots where it clicked, and spots where it didn't click. This can only mean flat spots. So I concentrated on getting those flat spots out so the thing rocked smooth from heel to tip before I started grinding the bevels. It sure makes a difference in how it dices stuff. Now I need to make me one. What do you think?
  12. I just do the super strong instant coffee for an hour or two to make a carbon steel blade black. If you polish it first, it comes out a nice shiny dark gray. Adding some lemon juice to the instant coffee will cut the etch time required by 1/4 the time it takes in coffee alone.
  13. I would use the 1084. It's easy to heat treat. Just get it orange and quench. AEB-L is SS and needs a heat treat oven to properly heat treat it. It needs to get up to 1975° and soak for a few minutes, then quenched between aluminum plates. I would not recommend any SS for beginners as it requires special heat treat procedures. If you have a HT oven, then by all means.
  14. Here is the welder I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXHRBQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I cannot say enough good things about it. I wanted something for under $1000 and this had the highest ratings of anything I looked at. Mostly excellent reviews. Over 400 of them. 4.9 out of 5 stars. I use the Tig welder but haven't used the arc welder yet. It is effortless to use and makes an amateur look like a pro. It does not have a mig function though. I tried to find a Mig/Tig combo but the only ones I saw would not do A/C on the Tig, which I really wanted to be able to do aluminum. So I bought this one. No Mig but that's OK. Tig is better anyway. No spatter, no mess.
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