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Paul Carter

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Paul Carter last won the day on June 27 2018

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    Tucson, Arizona
  • Interests
    Making knives and Damascus. Japanese knives/swords. Performance engines. Pontiacs.

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  1. They sent me 3 new hoses by Fedex, so I changed mine before I used it, but after I just got it all together.
  2. They are actually very strong when stitched together. Granted a power hammer is a different kind of force from what happens in an engine, but consider this. over ten years ago I fixed the heads on a Ford 6.0 liter diesel engine. Those heads had 18 cracks between the pair. They were in the combustion chamber, exposed to a lot of heat and other forces we just cannot imagine. A diesel engine runs off of detonation which can be a very destructive force in a gas engine, yet those pins hold up just fine. I talked to the owner of that engine just a few weeks ago and he said it's still running strong. I have yet to see one of these pins fail. The way the threads are shaped, they pull the parts together tight.There again, not sure about the whole power hammer thing, but I bet they would work as good as about anything else in this situation which isn't good no matter how you look at it.
  3. It may be a little late for this, but this is one way we fix cracked cast iron cylinder heads and engine blocks. Works very well and is very strong. The pins actually pull each half together as you tighten them. http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html
  4. If I wanted to make my own stainless steel pattern welded billets, what are the best steels to do that with?
  5. Alex, I struggled at first with the pins on full tang knives and had many troubles with them not going together. Here's what I found out and a simple way to do it that works every time. At first I tried the drill press but soon found out that doesn't work well. In my case it's probably the table is not perfectly square to the drill chuck, so I don't use it. Instead here's my method that can be done by hand without a drill press. First drill the holes in the tang. I use a drill and reamer. I drill the tang holes with a drill bit 1/64" smaller than the pin hole diameter I'm going to use but do not ream until the end. Then I use C-clamps, as many as I can fit, in between and around pins. Usually can get 3 on there. I clamp one scale to the tang as tight as I can. Then drill through the holes in the tang and through the scale, 1 at a time. slip a reversed drill bit into hole after each hole you drill to keep it all aligned in case the clamps slip. I stick a piece of duct tape to the backside of the scale to help with splintering. Try to be as straight as possible, but you don't have to be perfect. Next I slip drill bits the size you drilled, reversed so the back end is into the scale and into the tang until flush. This will align this scale while you clamp the other side onto the tang with the first scale still in place. It's very important that all three pieces be drilled and reamed together in there final resting position. You CANNOT take the first, drilled scale off and clamp the other to it and drill. It just doesn't work because the spacing during assembly causes the slight angles in the hole to change and the holes won't line up with the tang in between. Now clamp the second scale into place as tight as you can, and remove only 1 drill bit at a time and drill through the first scale and through the tang and second scale. slip a backwards drill bit back into all three pieces as far as you can, then pull out the second drill bit and repeat until all holes are drilled. Now, I pull out 1 drill bit at a time and ream the hole and slip an actual pin in while I ream the other holes. Now when you are putting it together with the epoxy drying, the pins will slip right through every time, even if there is a slight angle to your holes.
  6. Alan, when you say this " Just be sure your holes in the dies go to the very edge or you get a bit of falloff like this: " is this what you meant, or is it supposed to be "be sure your holes don't go to the edge?" Not really understanding that. Thanks in advance! I appreciate the tip for this method and want to try it out. Seems like no possibility of cold shuts this way.
  7. Thanks Alan, That sounds like a much better plan. I like it. Now to make a set of dies.
  8. I spray my billets down with WD40 before putting in forge to forge weld. I make sure all mating sides are clean and flat. Haven't had a bad weld yet. No inclusions either. I have never used flux.
  9. I bought the 12 ton Coal iron forge press and love it. It squished 115 layers[about 7 3/4"] down to about .265, but doesn't have enough push to flatten out the raindrops I drilled with the flat plates. The drawing dies work good. It's a great press for under $3000, and makes Damascus fine except for the raindrops. It squished them about halfway out but I will have to finish the rest by hand.
  10. This is what I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXHRBQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  11. I just bought a 225 Amp Primeweld tig/stick welder. It's AC/DC and will do aluminum too. I'm new to tig welding and this thing is so easy to use it's not even funny. It works great. Customer service is second to none also. I paid about $780 for it off Amazon. I think it's a great welder for someone who doesn't have a ton of experience with one. It's way easier to use than the big, high dollar one we have at work. I just welded sticks of copper and brass together the other day, as well as fusion weld my Damascus billets together.
  12. Forgot to mention, this surface grinder also has a tilt feature so I can grind Distal tapers too.
  13. Chris, I ordered the small wheel attachment a couple weeks ago. Can't wait until it gets here. I got it with 1/2", 3/4" and 1" wheels. What did you get?
  14. Chris, I just got my Pheer 454 grinder a few weeks ago. I love it! We have a Wilton at work, but this Pheer is way better for less money. Belt changes literally take 10 seconds or less. The Wilton takes a couple minutes to change a belt, and then re-tracking the belt is a pain. The Pheer tracks very easy. I'm really glad I bought it. I mounted mine on one of the Harbor Freight welding tables that tilts 90°. I mounted the grinder on the right side of it and the table will tilt 90° to the left making it a horizontal grinder. Haven't needed to use it that way yet, but can if I need to. I got a surface grinder attachment for it too that works awesome. Going to be making some Damascus this weekend.
  15. A friend built it for me. He saw a Youtube video and got the parts list from it. I'll see if I can get that info from him.
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