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Paul Carter

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Paul Carter last won the day on June 27 2018

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  1. That's a really nice looking sword.
  2. Very nice work! Thanks for posting!
  3. I like the pattern. Looks really nice. Gives me some ideas. Thanks!
  4. This is exactly what I think I am going to do now. Last night I just happened to turn on Forged in Fire, and there was a guy trying to use clay on the spine of his Damascus knife. All the judges questioned why he would do that. So between that and all you guys comments, I am now looking at the differential temper instead. Thanks for the replies!
  5. I made it out of 1095/15N20. I'm looking more for the ladder pattern to pop than getting a nice hamon. Thanks for the reply.
  6. I am making a 95 layer, ladder pattern Damascus Wakizashi and I was wanting to do a differential heat treat with clay on the spine. In the past when I have heat treated Damascus blades, I never really got the tangs red hot when I quenched, and when I etched them, the tangs did not show much pattern while the rest of the blade that hardened really popped. I'm thinking that if I use clay on the spine, the spine will still be getting hot through radiant heat, but the clay ultimately will slow down the cool down rate of the spine so it doesn't get hard, but since it got hot enough to get hard, I'm hoping the ladder pattern will pop like the rest of the blade. Or will it? Am I thinking about this correctly? Or does the steel actually need to be hardened for it to pop?
  7. Very nice work you've done! Thanks for sharing.
  8. Here is a Bowie/Kukri hybrid I just finished. It's the first stock removal knife I have made. About the 30'th, or so knife I have ever made. It's made from 1084, and is 2" wide, 7" blade and 12" overall. It's 5/32" thick and razor sharp. Chops very well. Handle is Desert Ironwood in the front, and the middle and end pieces are Macassar Ebony. The scales were only 1.5" wide but the tang was 2" wide in the front and rear so I had the alter the grain direction to make it work. I used 1/32" thick copper plate on each side of the tang. I etched the ricasso for a contrast in the blade. Sorry the pics aren't very good.
  9. I get much darker etching using instant coffee mixed up really strong. Some of my blades came out just gray in color when etched in Ferric chloride, but then when I put them in the coffee for 45-60 minutes, they came out black and the nickel was nice and clean. Looks much better. I used half of an 8 ounce jar in as much water as it took to fill that jar.
  10. Thanks Charles! It is 9 3/4" total length. The handle is 4 3/4", and the blade is 5" from front of handle to tip. The clip point edge is 1 5/8". I know I need to work on my plunge lines, so they are not perfect. They were done completely freehand, but they are real close. I'm making a file guide right now out of D-2, so that should be done by the time I get to the bevels on the next knife. BTW, what are people using to put the initial bevels on knives? Some are so perfect I find it hard to believe they are done freehand. Yet I can't seem to find a fixture that would cover many knife styles. Any suggestions? Free handing the bevels is the toughest part for me. I am an engine machinist and a Cryo-treater by trade so some of the other stuff is pretty much second nature to me, but these bevels. Wish I could find a more precise way to do them.
  11. Hi all, thought I would share some pics of a knife I made for a friend that helped me out. It is made from 1084, 1095, and 15N20. All together it is 110 layers, and I drilled raindrops in a diagonal pattern. Handle is made from Cocobolo. I designed it for cleaning fish as my friend likes to fish. I'm new to knife making[ 1 year now] so any advice or constructive criticism is welcome. I come here to learn. Thanks for the opportunity to share.
  12. Thanks! I was afraid there was no real good way to lock in the color. Soapy water washes it right off.
  13. How can I lock the tempering color into the blade? Can this be done by quenching in oil after taking out of the temper oven? Thanks for any help.
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