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Paul Carter

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Paul Carter last won the day on June 27 2018

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    Tucson, Arizona
  • Interests
    Making knives and Damascus. Japanese knives/swords. Performance engines. Pontiacs.

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  1. Thanks for the tips! I'm going to give it a try here in a few minutes.
  2. Hi, I just bought a plasma cutter. I have never used one before. It's not an expensive one[$320], but it seems decent and has good reviews. I was going to use it this weekend to cut 1/8" SS. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on using it, how to hold the gun, or cutting speeds, etc. The manual that came with it isn't much use. Matter of fact, it's quite useless! It's a 50 amp unit, with a 60% duty cycle. It has no touch start feature. The model is a Cut50L. I got it on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Plasma-Voltage-Cutting-Machine-Portable/dp/B083NPBQ7D/ref=sr_1_2?dchild=1&keywor
  3. Well I heat treated it the other day but made a mistake. I took it to 1555° held until whole piece got orange, then quenched in water and agitated the crap out of it. The straight peen end got hard, the hammer end did not. I think my mistake was grabbing the hammer end with tongs and quenching. Second heat treat, I grabbed it by the handle hole and quenched the hammer end and the peen end at the same time. The peen came out between 55 and 60, and the hammer end came out between 50 and 55. After a 700° temper, both ends are between 40 and 45. Thanks again guys!
  4. Sorry to correct you but my formula and yours come up with the same answer. Mine is easier to remember. I use this formula all the time in my job when I have to balance crankshafts. This formula tells me how deep and what size drill bit to drill a hole to remove a certain amount of material. If I need to remove 15 grams from a steel crank counterweight, I would drill a 1/2" hole .600" deep. This will remove 15.11 grams. Here is the math. .5" x .5" x .7854 x .600" x 16.3871[to convert cubic inches to cubic centimeters] x 7.83[the weight of 1 cc of steel] = 15.1163. Yes my formula was for round
  5. I do the math to get an idea of what it will make. 2.5" x .5" x .75" = .9375 square inches. Now if you do the math for a blade that is 6" x 1" x .150", that's .9 square inches. You will lose some from scale but a knife that little shouldn't take a whole lot of heats to forge it out so you won't lose that much. Also, if you do a hidden tang, you could get an even longer blade from it. If you want to figure out the square inches of a piece of round stock, then here is the math. Length x width x thickness x .7854 to cut the corners off of the square and make it round. This is how I al
  6. I'm fairly new to blade making[3 years] but what I like to use on my Damascus is instant coffee. I use half the bottle of coffee grounds mixed with hot water in the amount of about what it would take to fill the instant coffee jar. In other words, really, really strong. It takes about 45 minutes to an hour but the pattern is beautiful and no sanding required after. Rinse in water and the blade looks great. Coffee won't, however, etch away the carbon steel to leave a surface with texture like ferric chloride will. When I use ferric chloride I always have to go back and re-sand the blade and re-
  7. Gerhard and Jerrod. Thanks for that tidbit. I normalized it last night and going for the heat treat tonight. I will be sure to agitate it very well. My wife tells me I'm good at agitating!
  8. Thank you Jerrod! I will give that a try.
  9. So I made this hammer head out of a block of 1045. I was wondering what I should heat treat this at and what to temper it at for a hammer. I'm guessing I want my final hardness between 45 and 50? Is that correct? Thank you for any help!
  10. Hi, I am making a short sword similar to a Perseus style or Gladius style. It's in my own version and style because I like full tang knives and swords better than through or hidden tangs. I like the look of them especially when they are Damascus. Was wondering what you all think of the style and what I maybe should have done different, or ideas that would make it better looking. This is only the second sword I have ever made, so I'm trying to learn. The dimensions are as follows: Steel is 27 layers of 15N20, 1075, and 1084, drawn out and cut into 4 pieces and re-stacked with 3 more layer
  11. Yeah, it takes about 40 minutes to get up to 1600°. So maybe I wait until it's up to temp, then stick the blade in. Thanks Alan and Jerrod for your help.
  12. Another question. When I heat treat blades I have been sticking them in the oven when it is cold, then letting the blade heat up with the oven. Is this proper? Or should I be pre-heating the oven then just stick the blade in for a couple minutes until it gets up to temp? Talking plain steels here, not high alloys.
  13. Thank you Jerrod! I will try re-normalizing and heat treating it. I think 1630°f was the highest I saw the oven get and that was only for a few seconds as it cools off fast at those temps when the coils turn off. I've had the most trouble heat treating 5160. Not so much with getting hard, they all got hard, but more with blisters like this one has and warpage. The first two were heat treated in a forge, this is the third, and it was done in the oven. So I plan on hammering out a few knife sized pieces of it and do what you suggested for option 2. I think, as you say, that will be very educatio
  14. Thank you guys! That helps a lot. As far as this blade goes, is there any hope for it? Or is it junk?. Can it be re-normalized and heat treat to get grain size back down? Or since it has been quenched, is the grain size locked in and nothing can be done about it?
  15. I tried a search but came up with nothing. How do you all heat treat W2? And what temp to temper at? Might as well find out if normalizing is special process too.
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