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Paul Carter

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Paul Carter last won the day on June 27 2018

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  1. Geoff, thanks for the suggestions. I'll look into pinning that in place and see if I can do it without it being noticeable. I bought these castings from USA Knife Maker https://usaknifemaker.com/. I bought a piece of 26C3 to make the blade out of. I have never used it before but they say it makes a nice hamon. I'm going to try to get the hamon to look like it's coming out the snakes mouth, like a tongue. If I can get the shape and placement right, it should look pretty cool. Speaking of Japanese swords, I am currently making a Wakizashi out of a piece of ladder Damascus I made. I actually bought a red stingray hide for the handle before I learned that is what they used in many cases. I saw them at the leather store and just felt the bumps on the hide would work good for grip. I also bought some dark purple wrap for it. I was going to post some pics of it in the work in progress page. It's blade is 17.5", or 44.5 cm.
  2. Hi, I am making a knife for my Uncle who was a rattlesnake hunter[caught them live for medical research] in the 70's when I was a kid. I bought a rattlesnake guard and pommel for it and was going to wrap the wood part of the handle with a piece of rattlesnake skin I have. My questions are: 1. The pommel is hollow and does not have enough material to drill and thread. I need suggestion on how to secure it to the tang. I was thinking of cutting some small grooves in the end of the tang and filling the pommel cavity with something like JB weld and putting it together? I figure I would shape the wood to fit inside the pommel good. Is there a better way to do this? Most knives I have made are full tang knives. 2. What would be the best way to attach the snake skin to the wood? Will super glue or epoxy cause it to shrink or wrinkle and look bad? Should I use wood glue? Or should I not glue at all and sew it on? Thank you for any help or suggestions you have!
  3. Thank you Alan. I appreciate the advice.
  4. Hi, I'm going to be in the market for a 2"x72" belt grinder. The one I'm looking at has many options for wheel sizes. I want it for general knife grinding as well as for surface grinding. They have the following options. 8", 10", 12" 14". The 14" seems rather large, and the 8" seems kind of small. If I have to choose one size for general all around work and surface grinding, what would be the best size to go with? What's the advantage to the larger wheels besides the size of hollow grinds? Thanks for any advice given.
  5. Thanks Chris! I kind of want something a little deeper to be able to do short swords in. 27"-30" range anyway. I see Jen-Ken has a 30" deep one for $1660. That's something to think about. I like the idea of rolling it out of the way when not using it.
  6. Is this like what you have? https://knifekilns.com/product/vertical-air-bath-21/. Is there a rack at the top that you hang the blades from?
  7. Thanks for the replies. I'll look into the Jen-Ken ovens, and get back to you BillyO. I'm in Tucson, AZ.
  8. Hi, I am in the market for a heat treat oven. I'm looking for something in the $1400-$1500 range, maybe more if it's worth the extra. I have been looking at the Paragon, and Evenheat brands. I'm leaning towards the Evenheat LB27 which just has side heating elements. I like the size of the chamber. 10"x6.5"x27". The Paragon has a much smaller chamber at 5.5"x4.5"x27". If anyone has one of these and can offer opinions on either, I would greatly appreciate it. Or if there is another brand I should be considering, that would be good advice too. Thanks!
  9. Alan, thank you for the links! Michael, the Cryo treat does a lot of good for the blade. Most importantly, it finishes off the heat treat. What I mean by that is when heat treating, not all Austenite is converted into Martensite. This retained Austenite creates solid voids within the steel. If a blade breaks, it will break where the most Austenite crystals are conglomerated. Think about them like marbles in a wad of clay. It's all one solid mass, but the marbles are not part of the clay, so if you pulled on the clay, it will rip apart where the most marbles are located. That is the weakest point. When you take the steel down below -240°f[Cryo is -320°f], the retained Austenite finishes converting into Martensite. Now you've eliminated all the marbles in the clay, so to speak, and now have one solid mass without solid voids within. In the process of converting the retained Austenite to Martensite, it is possible to gain a little bit of hardness. Usually 1-3 points on the RC scale, depending on how good the initial heat treat was. Cryo also relieves any and all stress within the blade. In the process of realigning the molecular structure, Cryo also makes the surface finish microscopically smoother so you have more area to hold a cutting edge and absorb wear, so they hold an edge longer. I Cryo treat every blade I make and have never broke one.
  10. Charles and Chris, thanks for replying. I appreciate your comments and those kinds of opinions are what I'm looking for. It's good to get perspective from other bladesmiths. A little history on some of what you two touched on. I first designed a knife like this for myself. I drew it out on a piece of steel and cut it out. I really like the look so I use it for various chopping and cutting needs. I showed it to my cousin and he had to have one, so I made him one and sold it to him. A friend and customer of mine saw my cousins knife and wanted one, so I made and sold him one. Then another friend wanted one so that' was #3. Then another one wants one. So for me anyway, it seems to be popular since out of 5 knives I have sold, 4 have been of this style. I agree on the grain direction change on the handle. The only reason it is like that is because I cannot find 2" wide scales. Everyone I check with sells 1.5" scales so that is why I had to cut a pair of scales in half and use them on the front and rear. If anyone knows of where I can buy 2" wide wood[preferably Cocobolo] scales, feel free to let me know as this handle is a lot of work to complete the way it is. I have about 11 hours in the handle alone. I would much rather use just a pair of scales. Charles, good eye on the chip in the pin hole. I've been using duct tape on the wood to try to prevent it, and it works most of the time, but still sometimes I get break-outs. Is there a way to prevent this? Thinking about it now, I suppose I could just drill against another piece of flat wood. I'm an engine machinist and Cryo treater by trade so I can't help but make the pins equally spaced and centrally located. That's just the machinist in me. Thanks for noticing!
  11. I'm new to knife making[2.5 years] and still learning, so any comments or suggestions are welcome.
  12. Here is a knife I made from 1084. It's just under 12" long with a 6.5" blade. It's 2" wide and 3/16" thick. Hardness is between 60 and 65 RC. I etched in coffee for the smoke color. Handle wood is Cocobolo in the middle and Kingwood on the ends. I used copper pins in the Cocobolo and brass in the Kingwood, and blue liner material in between. It weighs about a pound. The sheath is the first one I made from scratch. I call it the "Carter Cutter". It's also been Cryo treated since I'm a Cryo treater.
  13. That's a really nice looking sword.
  14. Very nice work! Thanks for posting!
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