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Paul Carter

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Everything posted by Paul Carter

  1. Thank you guys! That helps a lot. As far as this blade goes, is there any hope for it? Or is it junk?. Can it be re-normalized and heat treat to get grain size back down? Or since it has been quenched, is the grain size locked in and nothing can be done about it?
  2. I tried a search but came up with nothing. How do you all heat treat W2? And what temp to temper at? Might as well find out if normalizing is special process too.
  3. These coils were from a 1964 Pontiac GTO I used to have. I believe they were OEM too. I know I shouldn't really be using old springs for knives, and usually I buy steel I know what it is. This knife was for a gift. Well, so much for that. Win some, lose some. All part of the learning curve! The hard part. Thanks, I changed my heat treat notebook for 5160 to 1525° and quench. Does that seem to be the standard for 5160? Thanks again!
  4. I made this dagger out of a piece of an old coil spring. I'm assuming it's 5160, but that could be an invalid assumption. I think I overheated it, but I'll let you guys tell me what I did wrong. Here is how I heat treated it. I got the heat treat instructions off the net, I believe from Alpha Knife Supply from the 5160 page although it is no longer there. Don't know if it is gone because they sold out, or if I saw these instructions somewhere else. But after reading a couple posts here, I'm pretty sure I over heated it by about 100°F. Here's what I did after sanding it to 600 grit. I forged this blade about a year ago and it's just been sitting around since, if that makes a difference. Normalized by taking it to 1625°F, then let air cool. Took to 1500°F, then let cool. Took to 1425°F, then let cool completely to room temp. Took up to 1625° and let soak for 10 minutes[as per instructions I read], then quenched in canola oil pre-heated to about 140°F. This is how it came out after sanding it some, after I removed it from a jar of vinegar overnight to dissolve the scale, but it didn't even touch this scale. The vinegar was clear as water this morning. This happened to me one other time when I heat treated a coil spring steel blade I made at school. That blade was heat treated in a forge, by eye. This blade was done in my Evenheat oven.
  5. I like to keep the 15N20 on the outside. It doesn't pit as bad from the scale so when you try to clean it up to re-stack, you won't be grinding so much away. The 1095 will leave some deep pits that won't be in the 15N20.
  6. Also, the webpage I was reading said that 1084 should be heated to 1500° for heat treat. Is this correct? I thought that because it was right around .8% carbon, that critical was only around 1400°. That page had 1084 heated higher than 1095, which I thought was strange.
  7. So the way I understand it is low alloy steels, like 10 series, do not need soak times when heat treating. But higher alloy steels like 80CRV2, or 5160, 52100, for examples, need some soak time to get the carbides into solution and well distributed throughout the steel. Is that correct?
  8. Thank you for the tip. I never even thought about that, nor has anyone ever said anything about it. This is how the forge came when I bought it, so I never gave it second thought. Thanks for watching out for us newbies!
  9. The steels are 15N20 and 1084. So my normalizing temps seem OK, just don't do the 10 minute soak? I let them cool well below 1100° so I should be OK there. I let them air cool for about 10-12 minutes for smaller size blades like this. One other question. If you do a full anneal, do you still need to normalize before heat treat? Or does the annealing accomplish the same thing as normalizing?
  10. Well it's been months since I fired up the forge and I was getting an itchy finger waiting for it to cool off, but really, here in Southern Az., cool weather is still months away. It was 107° outside and 106° in my shop. So I got a small portable swamp cooler setup in my shop and dropped the temp inside to 93°. Much nicer than 106°. So I fired up the forge, which is outside. I worked on two PW billets I made a couple months ago. I got both billets, one ladder and one raindrop, hammered flat since my press didn't have enough oomph to completely flatten the grooves and drill holes out. Got them flattened out so now next time I fire up the forge, I can forge them into something. The big raindrop billet I want to forge a Perseus style short sword from it. The smaller ladder billet I want to make a large camp chopping knife.
  11. Hi, I am getting ready to heat treat a PW steel dagger I am making. It is a twist pattern. I sanded it to 1200 and then buffed it. I have a normalizing program set in my heat treat oven. My questions are: 1. Since this blade is polished, can I normalize it wrapped in SS foil and still expect the same results as normalizing without foil? Or do I need to adjust my normalizing program? 2. What do you experts think of my normalizing program? What would you change about it if it should be changed? A. Ramp to 1600° and hold for 10 minutes, remove and air cool while HT oven drops to 1450°. B. Hold at 1450° for 10 minutes, remove and air cool while temp drops to 1300°. C. Hold at 1300° for 10 minutes, remove and air cool while temp drops to 1150°. D. Hold at 1150° for 10 minutes, remove and air cool to room temp, then heat treat as usual. 3. I am going to be heat treating my first SS[AEB-L] and I'll be using foil. My question is, when I quench it do I quench it while still wrapped in the foil? Or do I have to remove it first? I was planning on plate quenching it, or should I oil quench it. It claims it can be quenched either way. If it needs to be removed from the foil before quenching, what's the best way to do that? Is there a special way to wrap it to make removing while hot easier? Should I leave the tang unwrapped to make removing it easier? Thank you for any help!
  12. I like it! It has a nice shape. Nice job. I like the shape of the handle, and you did a nice job on the sheath too.
  13. Thank you for your comments! Kill Bill 3, now there's something I hadn't thought about. LOL!
  14. Here is a Wakizashi I made from 1084,1095, and 15N20. IIRC it's around 110 layers. I made the billet and rough forging back in Nov. 2018. I made the tsuba from a left over end piece of Damascus and I drilled some shallow holes in it. I made the tsuka from bass wood and used G10 pins to hold the scales on. I wrapped the scales with red stingray skin, and wrapped that with synthetic Ito wrap. The entire sword weighs 1 1/4 lbs. The balance point is right at the plunge line. I still need to make a habaki and a saya for it. I know it's not traditional. I always wanted one so I made it to my liking. I didn't want the spine to be as thin as it is but that's what happens when you try to grind the edges freehand. I slipped and messed up so I figured out a way to hold it in my angle fixture so I could finish grinding the edges and fix my mess up. Edge bevels are 15° included angle and I took the edge down to .010" thick before I sharpened it. After the first temper it was still 65 RC, so I tempered it again at 400° after etching in coffee and it turned a nice gold/amber color. Now it is around 60-62 RC. This is the first time I ever did tsuka-maki and it came out alright, but I'm not real happy with it. I think I could have done it better and more even, but until I have time to straighten it out, it'll have to do. Overall, I'm really happy with how the whole thing turned out. It swings real easy and cuts small tree branches really well. I'm going to try some other sharpness tests on it this weekend. What do you think? Constructive criticism welcome. Dimensions are: edge length is 16.5" tang is 7" tsuka is 10" weight = 1 1/4 lbs. thickness is .156" at the habaki area, .125" near the tip. edge bevels are 15° included angle This pic looks like it's on fire. I figured out how to install oval pins!
  15. They sent me 3 new hoses by Fedex, so I changed mine before I used it, but after I just got it all together.
  16. They are actually very strong when stitched together. Granted a power hammer is a different kind of force from what happens in an engine, but consider this. over ten years ago I fixed the heads on a Ford 6.0 liter diesel engine. Those heads had 18 cracks between the pair. They were in the combustion chamber, exposed to a lot of heat and other forces we just cannot imagine. A diesel engine runs off of detonation which can be a very destructive force in a gas engine, yet those pins hold up just fine. I talked to the owner of that engine just a few weeks ago and he said it's still running strong. I have yet to see one of these pins fail. The way the threads are shaped, they pull the parts together tight.There again, not sure about the whole power hammer thing, but I bet they would work as good as about anything else in this situation which isn't good no matter how you look at it.
  17. It may be a little late for this, but this is one way we fix cracked cast iron cylinder heads and engine blocks. Works very well and is very strong. The pins actually pull each half together as you tighten them. http://www.locknstitch.com/index.html
  18. If I wanted to make my own stainless steel pattern welded billets, what are the best steels to do that with?
  19. Alex, I struggled at first with the pins on full tang knives and had many troubles with them not going together. Here's what I found out and a simple way to do it that works every time. At first I tried the drill press but soon found out that doesn't work well. In my case it's probably the table is not perfectly square to the drill chuck, so I don't use it. Instead here's my method that can be done by hand without a drill press. First drill the holes in the tang. I use a drill and reamer. I drill the tang holes with a drill bit 1/64" smaller than the pin hole diameter I'm going to use but do not ream until the end. Then I use C-clamps, as many as I can fit, in between and around pins. Usually can get 3 on there. I clamp one scale to the tang as tight as I can. Then drill through the holes in the tang and through the scale, 1 at a time. slip a reversed drill bit into hole after each hole you drill to keep it all aligned in case the clamps slip. I stick a piece of duct tape to the backside of the scale to help with splintering. Try to be as straight as possible, but you don't have to be perfect. Next I slip drill bits the size you drilled, reversed so the back end is into the scale and into the tang until flush. This will align this scale while you clamp the other side onto the tang with the first scale still in place. It's very important that all three pieces be drilled and reamed together in there final resting position. You CANNOT take the first, drilled scale off and clamp the other to it and drill. It just doesn't work because the spacing during assembly causes the slight angles in the hole to change and the holes won't line up with the tang in between. Now clamp the second scale into place as tight as you can, and remove only 1 drill bit at a time and drill through the first scale and through the tang and second scale. slip a backwards drill bit back into all three pieces as far as you can, then pull out the second drill bit and repeat until all holes are drilled. Now, I pull out 1 drill bit at a time and ream the hole and slip an actual pin in while I ream the other holes. Now when you are putting it together with the epoxy drying, the pins will slip right through every time, even if there is a slight angle to your holes.
  20. Alan, when you say this " Just be sure your holes in the dies go to the very edge or you get a bit of falloff like this: " is this what you meant, or is it supposed to be "be sure your holes don't go to the edge?" Not really understanding that. Thanks in advance! I appreciate the tip for this method and want to try it out. Seems like no possibility of cold shuts this way.
  21. Thanks Alan, That sounds like a much better plan. I like it. Now to make a set of dies.
  22. I spray my billets down with WD40 before putting in forge to forge weld. I make sure all mating sides are clean and flat. Haven't had a bad weld yet. No inclusions either. I have never used flux.
  23. I bought the 12 ton Coal iron forge press and love it. It squished 115 layers[about 7 3/4"] down to about .265, but doesn't have enough push to flatten out the raindrops I drilled with the flat plates. The drawing dies work good. It's a great press for under $3000, and makes Damascus fine except for the raindrops. It squished them about halfway out but I will have to finish the rest by hand.
  24. This is what I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXHRBQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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