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Paul Carter

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Everything posted by Paul Carter

  1. I just do the super strong instant coffee for an hour or two to make a carbon steel blade black. If you polish it first, it comes out a nice shiny dark gray. Adding some lemon juice to the instant coffee will cut the etch time required by 1/4 the time it takes in coffee alone.
  2. I would use the 1084. It's easy to heat treat. Just get it orange and quench. AEB-L is SS and needs a heat treat oven to properly heat treat it. It needs to get up to 1975° and soak for a few minutes, then quenched between aluminum plates. I would not recommend any SS for beginners as it requires special heat treat procedures. If you have a HT oven, then by all means.
  3. Here is the welder I bought. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BXHRBQ8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I cannot say enough good things about it. I wanted something for under $1000 and this had the highest ratings of anything I looked at. Mostly excellent reviews. Over 400 of them. 4.9 out of 5 stars. I use the Tig welder but haven't used the arc welder yet. It is effortless to use and makes an amateur look like a pro. It does not have a mig function though. I tried to find a Mig/Tig combo but the only ones I saw would not do A/C on the Tig, which I really wanted to
  4. Thanks! I am going to try again but maybe I'll try heating it in my HT oven this next time. It will go to 2200°.
  5. First off I am no expert on SS. I'm have been messing with SS Damascus myself and can tell you what I have learned so far. I weld all the way around with a tig welder by fusion welding. This way I don't introduce any other metals to the mix. SS needs a lot of heat. I had my forge up to 2150°, but I think I really need to be around 2200. It will definitely need a lot more heat than regular carbon steel.
  6. I too repurpose refrigerator pumps. They work good. I currently have one from an old A/C unit that I use to evacuate the A/C systems in my cars when I fix them. The A/C unit pump is twice the size and weight of a refrigerator pump so I wouldn't go after one of those unless it's all that is available. Surely there's got to be someone local getting rid of an old refrigerator.
  7. I had partial luck with my SS billet. It all welded together except the very center didn't weld. When I cut a slab off it, and ground it and etched it, you can see a line in the very center where the two layers didn't weld together. All the other layers are solid, except the top .030" thick layer of SS I had on the outside. I came to the conclusion that after the foil burned off, the thin layer overheated and curled up a little and didn't stick when pressed. The thin layer on the bottom welded fine. Conclusion; put the thicker layers on the outside. I must not have let it soak quite enoug
  8. Yes, I use it a fair amount and I absolutely love it! It makes a beginner weld like a pro. Fusion welding is a breeze. The Tig welder we have at work makes a loud buzzing noise as you weld with it. This thing you can hardly hear it at all. It's literally almost silent. It has auto arc so you don't have to strike an arc. Just get it close to where you want to weld and step on the peddle. The manual that comes with it is easy to read and understand and takes about 45 minutes to read through. As far as I'm concerned, you can't go wrong with this welder for something under $1000. The company revie
  9. Alex, I'm pretty sure you need thermocouple wire. One wire is silver in color and the other is copper and they connect to certain connectors in the plug. I bought a 100 foot roll of it for my Cryo system, and still have a lot left. If you are just looking to get a few feet of it, I could hook you up with some.
  10. Well, I've got a 15 layer stainless steel Damascus block all welded up and ready to forge weld. We'll see If I an make it happen. Wish me luck.
  11. That is one beautiful knife there! I've been wanting to try feather Damascus next and if it comes out even 1/2 as good looking as yours I will be a happy man!
  12. Well I got both blades straight and surface ground them. They both cleaned up with about .008"-.009" removed from each side. This AEB-L really grinds nice without developing a lot of heat. I completely ground each side without cooling it off once. Then, when done, it was barely too warm to handle without gloves. I'd say around 150°. Started grinding the edges, but got one side done and my belts are just too worn now to finish so I ordered new belts that will be here Wednesday so I can finish grinding.
  13. This is what I worked on the past few days. Not blade related but something for a Christmas present. Made it from 15N20, 1084, and 52100. I twisted it several times, then cut about 7" off to make this cross. Only thing I didn't think about when I started this is that there are 26 separate surfaces to grind, sand, and polish. I ended up not sanding the sides and bottom. That saved me several hours. Sanded it down to 2500 grit and then buffed it. Heat treated it, etched in coffee, then then tempered it at 520° to turn it blue. It measures 4" x 2 5/8", and made to christian cross specifications.
  14. I fusion weld with a Tig welder all the way around the billet. That way there is no way for oxygen to get in and no need for flux. I get perfect welds every time. To date, I have never used flux, and used to use just WD-40 when I stitch welded with the Tig. Now I don't use anything and there is no foreign metals in the billet.
  15. Thanks for your comments guys! When I get a few minutes, I'll read that link.
  16. Wow, interesting.. I never would have guessed. I figured the skin oils would cause it to rust. This would certainly make things easier.Thanks!
  17. The clip point is not sharpened. I usually do not sharpen them. It's just tapered down for easier stabbing. As far as the pin angle goes, that is an idea I had while trying to fall asleep one night. I've never seen it done before so I thought I'd try it. I figure with the pins at an angle, it's impossible for the handle scales to come off without pulling the pins. Not that that is a problem. I just thought it would give an interesting look with pins that have an oval appearance, and not being across from each other on each side. I did these at a 45° angle, but if I do it again, I will tr
  18. Hi all! My son asked me to make him a Damascus wedding ring. I make lots of Damascus but not any that won't rust. I was wondering what steels work best for Damascus rings. I read that 304L and 316L are used a lot, but is that all they use? I would think there must be some steel that won't etch like the 15N20 that they use to stay shiny, but can't find that info on the net. Does anyone here know and willing to share? Thanks in advance.
  19. I can answer that without knowing your questions. Because I like unique and different. I don't like making knives the same as everyone else. I like quirky and curves. With that said, I am here to learn, so please tell me what you like and dislike about it, and what you feel I might have done wrong or could have done different so I can file that away in my memory banks for future designs. Thanks! Thanks you! I really like how it came out myself.
  20. Great thread! Some of these knives are beautiful! I only hope one day I'll be able to make knives as nice as them. I started about 3 years ago with a blacksmiths knife I made from a piece of coil spring but I don't have a picture of it. Here is the first knife I made with a handle material on it. It's also the first Damascus knife I made and the second knife I ever made. Cocobolo handle. These are a few of my very first knives. The top is a 12 layer made from a piece of messed up Damascus, with a stabilized walnut handle. The bottom is a 110 layer, w
  21. Here is a 68 layer ladder pattern I made from 15N20, 1084, and 52100. Started as 17 layers that I cut into 4 pieces and re-stacked. Handle is Snakewood with 5/16" mosaic pins I made. Blade is 7" long and about 13" overall length, and about 1 5/8" wide. I ground the fuller with a 1" wheel. I used blue liner material between the tang and scales, but apparently didn't get a picture of that.. Blade is around 60 HRC. I did a double taper for the edge. It is flat ground. Hope you like it.
  22. Yes, I did forge the drill holes out, but the pits I was talking about grinding out were the pits left over by the scale.
  23. I'm very sad for you. Sorry to hear this.
  24. I did just fusion weld them together with a Tig welder. I don't use a Mig or stick because I don't want to add any other metals to it. Thanks for the tip on the raindrops. I stopped forging this when it was pretty thick but then I surface ground it and by the time the pits came out, it was a lot thinner than I had wanted. Oh well, it was for me anyway. I'll get back to it once I get some other projects done.
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