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Alex tritten

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    forging in France, working in North Wales
  • Interests
    bladesmithing, woodturning, building stuff, windsurfing, my kids, my wife sometimes...

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  1. A few better pictures... I may grind this bad weld at the heel, but for now, it's going to get some kitchen time! .
  2. I had to redo the spine to fit the guard, so on goes the nail varnish to protect the rest of the blade whilst I re-reveal it. the guard is going in the ferric chloride a few bits of double dyed thuya, oak, and a classic walnut to fit this knife. sanding the handle heating up the epoxy, it's cold outside today! polishing the handle 4000 grit stone Classic look for an organic pattern... ...and It cuts!
  3. Productive day today, onto the grinder for the final grind, from 120 to 240 then every one's favorite job Not forgetting the choil! Three baths of 10mn And after one more bath, instant coffee this time! You can see a bad weld on the heel, little black spot... Size wise, i'm pleasantly surprised, it's the same size blade as my latest chef's knife, and the heel is the same height as my stainless work horse, so I'm quite happy all in all. Can't wait to cook with it! I can't find a good piece of stabilized wood in my arsenal, so I spend an hour or so cutting a
  4. Thanks Alan, will do! And will start doing proper normalization too now that i know the difference!
  5. Thanks Jerrod! I actually knew that, but I came across a few videos (my main source of knowledge) where it was mentioned as "the blacksmith normalization", as in, as short cut to air cooling three times for lazy people like me! I don't know exactly how much difference any process makes, when I did make some comparisons (i always use 1075 and 15n20), the grain looked the same to my untrained eye!
  6. probably a bad weld then, not throughout the blade, but still! Pictures coming up! If I understand well, thermal cycling is normalizing the steel? But what about carbon migration? I've read it's a process that occurs in the forge, didn't think it could be controlled
  7. The too that gets used the most in the shop, apart from myself... Tired of the grinder, so I stick a 60 grit on and get it flat to see if I can get rid of the little line on the weld on one side. I have 6mm to play with so shouldn't be a problem Cutting to shape. I really wish I was better at forging, but then again, it's a way to get rid of mig welds and I get to place the spine of the feather where I want it... refining the outline and getting it straight, then rough grinding the bevels, up to 240 grit. The line in the spine is still there... I don't want to thin the bl
  8. So I chose to cut my billet back along the bad weld and weld it all over again. There was a whole square centimeter of inclusion in the middle! Tired of stick welding the handles and loosing them, thought I might as well Mig weld my handle and loose it... Bit of Borax... Three heats with the hammer for luck, and four heats flat under the power hammer before starting to draw it sideways. Bit of fish mouth on the end, hammering it flat gently Start a bit of a tang, mostly to be able to hold it with better tongs, Hammer a pointy bit. I'm always weary
  9. I'm just starting to realize this! Next I'll try a simple high layer count into a feather, it will be slightly less steel greedy! tired now, but can't wait to get this knife blank out of the forge and check the weld!
  10. Hi Gary, thanks for your post, very helpful! Would have been even more helpful had i read it before going back to the forge! I actually didn't know scale could be converted back to steel, so i decided to cut it back in two, welded it and back into the fire! It went well enough, and there is a knife shape normalising inside the forge right now, let's hope it grinds out well! a question though, what do you call oclusion? thanks again!
  11. next session coming up, I only have enough for a three stack, this steel is disappearing fast!Light tap with the hammer, notice the new respirator, the ceramic fibre lining in my forge is coming apart and i don't want to be breathing it... then under the hammer. It's worth mentioning I am trying a full mig weld along the edges here, and no flux. It ends up being one of my worst forge welds ever, with deep cold shuts I will have to grind for a while... after reading a thread on this forum, I now realize that flux-less welds are done at a slightly higher temperature... If life was simple,
  12. RHAAAAA!!! Help!!! I messed up the last weld! Way I see it, i have three options: -put it back in the forge, soak it well, press it back together, hope and a prayer -back in the forge, split it back in two with the wedge and restart . -cut it along the seam, clean it up and weld to forge weld it... Any suggestions?
  13. second session at the forge, here are a few pics, so far, so good... first stack of four welded up plus some Borax a few taps with the hammer and under the power hammer it goes! And drawing it out! once again, i loose the handle before the end and finish off with the tongs... It seems I can't get a handle welded on properly... ever! i use 3 mm sticks, do a couple of passes, but it never lasts till the end... and some good W's appearing, this feels like victory, nevermind the end!
  14. and the first etch...not so good a picture, but there is a distinct distortion of the layers, better than last time already!
  15. ok so I thought I would post a few pictures this time so that if it goes wrong (again) it may help some others... here are the first stages in pictures... 1075 and 15n20 rounding off the edges. my power hammer needs more power for this jig through, but it seems to have worked.
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