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P Jones

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    Pennsylvania
  1. P Jones

    Geometry question

    That pic does look like there's a secondary bevel on it. Most people just refer to it as the edge or the cutting edge.
  2. Quick and easy question: I've been meaning to make a dedicated tempering oven. Not just a toaster oven with a PID attached to it, but one that's shaped so that I can fit longer blades inside and can hold a good consistent temperature. I found this thread on the forums and it seemed just right and easy enough to make. Plus is didn't cost much all things considered. Most of the materials were already mentioned there, except for one and that's only because the page that was linked no longer exists. It concerned the heating element, and I'm not sure exactly what type to get for an oven such as this. Also I'm looking at this PID, which also comes with a thermocouple, heat sink, and a SSR. It's just the first one I found with a lot of stars on Amazon, but some of the reviews are leaving me with doubts. If anyone knows any better options (within a reasonable price range), I'm all ears. Most threads seem to lean towards Auber Instruments, but they are referring to heat treat ovens +1000 degrees where I just want 500-600 max. I just want to make sure what I get isn't overkill.
  3. P Jones

    WIP Fathers Day Gift

    88 layers. I was planning to do 80 but I ended up with an extra piece of 15N20 after cutting the metal. The handle's going to be a hidden tang. I have a piece of steel taken from a railroad tie clip that I pressed down a bit, that'll become the bolster. After that is going to be a mixture of black G10 and brass sheets layered together and two pieces of black walnut (from his old house) used like scales. I saw someone on this forum do this, it seemed like a really good idea. The last detail is going to be three mosaic pins helping to hold it all together.
  4. P Jones

    WIP Fathers Day Gift

    15N20 and some extra 1095 I had lying around.
  5. P Jones

    WIP Fathers Day Gift

    So I put a few new toys to the test a couple of days ago and began on this year's Fathers Day gift. He's been dropping a lot of "subtle" hints ever since I started this hobby essentially detailing exactly what he wanted me to make. I've been holding off on it since when I did do it one, I wanted it to be presentable and two, I wanted it to be the best I can make. So I've been holding off until I could really get pattern welding down and now its there. This is the first time I've made a pattern welded blade while having next to no cracks where the weld didn't take, and those were easily grounded away. Still have a lot of work to be done, the handle is going to be almost as big a project as the blade.
  6. P Jones

    Blown burners, the care and feeding

    Thanks for the quick suggestions. The sparks came after the third fold and the weld wasn't really taking, so I went a little overboard with it. But I'll try backing off a little bit the next time I'm at it, and if it still seems high I'll probably give a smaller tube a shot.
  7. P Jones

    Blown burners, the care and feeding

    Quick question for anyone reading this. I made a new forge w/ a blown burner about a month or two ago. Works good, got the performance I was hoping for. Wanted to do some pattern welding so I cranked up the air and fuel and had the metal shooting sparks at me. Problem was that this burner was drinking propane, I ran through a tank in a matter of hours. Even before when doing some basic forging my 30 lbs tank seemed to go a little faster than normal. I'm getting about 5 hours of forging with this burner where before with my venturi burner I was getting 8+. The burner is 2" or 2 1/2", I forget exactly which. Would reducing the burner to about 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" help with fuel consumption while also delivering enough heat to the forge? Forge is circular 350 cu in with 2" insulation, furnace refractory, ITC-100 coating with the burner aligned to get a swirling flame if that helps with the question.
  8. P Jones

    Grinder question

    I'm not an expert in motors, at least not where knowledge between brands and such is concerned. I know enough to make a system that works. A few things to understand. First what power outlets are available to you? I'm limited to 120V, so that narrows my choices when choosing a motor/VFD. I can still get them, but realistically I'm limited to a 1.5HP motor. Some of those choices have a 240V input for the VFD and some have a 120V. Second, some of those motors are non-vented (TENV), which considering that grinders will be run for long periods of time, having a fan to keep it cool would imo be mandatory. The magic letters I look for are TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled). I'm not saying for sure that TENV can't be used, just that I don't know if they're the best choice. Third, keep the motor frame type in mind. That's going to determine the size of the arbor for when you're looking at drive wheels. Third, I don't know if the packages are different, but generally when getting the motor you're going to have to wire it yourself. That means wiring/crimping tools and a basic understanding of wiring diagrams. The motors will come with one, often on the motor itself, and so will the VFD. Like I said before, I like the OBM chassis, just it requires some effort on your part. When I put mine together I followed the advice this gentleman put on his review. I used this VFD and while I couldn't find my exact motor it was almost identical to this one. To directly answer your question, if I had to pick between those options I would choose either this one if I had a 230V power source or this one if I was limited to 120V. Same motor, different VFD for different voltage inputs. Why? TEFC, 3600RPM, 1.5HP, price looks fair. I don't like the first one simply because the motor is 1800RPM, I prefer 3600RPM. Personal preference, you can make a sheave system to compensate for it, I just prefer the simplicity of a direct drive wheel. I can't say if Leesons are any better, I don't know brands too well. Just a little more reading material to take up your time, I read this guys material all the time and it has all been extremely useful to me. This one explains electric motors/vfds for grinders, this one explains the importance of belt speed, and this one is a calculator he made to help you get the speed you're looking for. It helped me, hopefully it helps you as well. There's a lot of guys here who really are experts with AC motors, so hopefully they'll chime in and give you some good advice as well.
  9. P Jones

    Grinder question

    Thanks for clarifying. Their prices have always been a bit lower compared to most places I've seen, so that's good to hear that there aren't any ongoing problems.
  10. P Jones

    Grinder question

    What's wrong with Admiral? That's mainly where I've been shopping, so if there's something wrong with them that I don't know about...
  11. P Jones

    Grinder question

    Ok I figured lol. The chassis is solid, and the attachable parts they sell are just as good. Just doing some quick pricing in my head the same rough package from an OBM setup would be $1000-1250 where a KMG would cost you about $2250. I not so sure about their motor/vfd combo, most people seem to just buy their own (as did I). Plus its only 1 hp I think, so you could probably get some more juice for the price they're asking for it. I went with an OBM and it works great for me, just if you go that route do some research and find a decent motor/vfd to use with it.
  12. P Jones

    Grinder question

    I've always gotten my steel from admiral steel. The prices there always seemed good to me. I'm assuming by OMB you mean OBM? I haven't used a KMG grinder, but pricing on their website you can get the same setup as one of their grinders from OBM for half the price. The chassis has two detachable slots for whatever you want, tracking wheel, and solid heavy frame. Choose whatever motor/VFD combo you want and you're good to go. I've never heard anyone complain about either, so you should be good either way.
  13. P Jones

    1st and 2nd knives Finished

    lol that'll happen. If you haven't found out already just apply some water on the edge and start rubbin.
  14. P Jones

    Unknown Mark on a Friend's Knife

    I didn't think it was any type of wootz or pattern weld, didn't look enough like either. Still though, that gives us something to pin it on or at least look a little more into. Thanks for the info.
  15. P Jones

    Starting a smithy...

    I don't have much to add that others already have. I've experimented with brick forges on a small scale for HT before moving to a round full-sized forge body. It's one thing to read on here about a flame swirling around for an equal heat and another to see it in action. I always remember the brick forges not being since there was always an obvious hot spot where a cylindrical body does a better job of spreading the flame. Just my preference though, built properly both should work. As for grinders, if you know for certain that you like bladesmithing and will stick with the hobby, a good 2x72" grinder is probably the safest investment you can make. Outside the forge all the work I do on a blade revolves around the grinder. Profiling, beveling, polishing, handle shaping, just about everything I can do besides drilling holes and fine file work. You WILL get your money's worth out of them. If you have the motor you can throw in a VFD or pulley system to adjust the speed. The only question left is are you going to make your own chassis or buy one. I didn't trust my welding skills, so I bought the one from Oregon Blade Maker. High quality and good price. If you want to save a few bucks and make your own, there's plenty of designs out there.
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