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P Jones

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  1. P Jones

    Grinder question

    I'm not an expert in motors, at least not where knowledge between brands and such is concerned. I know enough to make a system that works. A few things to understand. First what power outlets are available to you? I'm limited to 120V, so that narrows my choices when choosing a motor/VFD. I can still get them, but realistically I'm limited to a 1.5HP motor. Some of those choices have a 240V input for the VFD and some have a 120V. Second, some of those motors are non-vented (TENV), which considering that grinders will be run for long periods of time, having a fan to keep it cool would imo be mandatory. The magic letters I look for are TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled). I'm not saying for sure that TENV can't be used, just that I don't know if they're the best choice. Third, keep the motor frame type in mind. That's going to determine the size of the arbor for when you're looking at drive wheels. Third, I don't know if the packages are different, but generally when getting the motor you're going to have to wire it yourself. That means wiring/crimping tools and a basic understanding of wiring diagrams. The motors will come with one, often on the motor itself, and so will the VFD. Like I said before, I like the OBM chassis, just it requires some effort on your part. When I put mine together I followed the advice this gentleman put on his review. I used this VFD and while I couldn't find my exact motor it was almost identical to this one. To directly answer your question, if I had to pick between those options I would choose either this one if I had a 230V power source or this one if I was limited to 120V. Same motor, different VFD for different voltage inputs. Why? TEFC, 3600RPM, 1.5HP, price looks fair. I don't like the first one simply because the motor is 1800RPM, I prefer 3600RPM. Personal preference, you can make a sheave system to compensate for it, I just prefer the simplicity of a direct drive wheel. I can't say if Leesons are any better, I don't know brands too well. Just a little more reading material to take up your time, I read this guys material all the time and it has all been extremely useful to me. This one explains electric motors/vfds for grinders, this one explains the importance of belt speed, and this one is a calculator he made to help you get the speed you're looking for. It helped me, hopefully it helps you as well. There's a lot of guys here who really are experts with AC motors, so hopefully they'll chime in and give you some good advice as well.
  2. P Jones

    Grinder question

    Thanks for clarifying. Their prices have always been a bit lower compared to most places I've seen, so that's good to hear that there aren't any ongoing problems.
  3. P Jones

    Grinder question

    What's wrong with Admiral? That's mainly where I've been shopping, so if there's something wrong with them that I don't know about...
  4. P Jones

    Grinder question

    Ok I figured lol. The chassis is solid, and the attachable parts they sell are just as good. Just doing some quick pricing in my head the same rough package from an OBM setup would be $1000-1250 where a KMG would cost you about $2250. I not so sure about their motor/vfd combo, most people seem to just buy their own (as did I). Plus its only 1 hp I think, so you could probably get some more juice for the price they're asking for it. I went with an OBM and it works great for me, just if you go that route do some research and find a decent motor/vfd to use with it.
  5. P Jones

    Grinder question

    I've always gotten my steel from admiral steel. The prices there always seemed good to me. I'm assuming by OMB you mean OBM? I haven't used a KMG grinder, but pricing on their website you can get the same setup as one of their grinders from OBM for half the price. The chassis has two detachable slots for whatever you want, tracking wheel, and solid heavy frame. Choose whatever motor/VFD combo you want and you're good to go. I've never heard anyone complain about either, so you should be good either way.
  6. P Jones

    1st and 2nd knives Finished

    lol that'll happen. If you haven't found out already just apply some water on the edge and start rubbin.
  7. P Jones

    Unknown Mark on a Friend's Knife

    I didn't think it was any type of wootz or pattern weld, didn't look enough like either. Still though, that gives us something to pin it on or at least look a little more into. Thanks for the info.
  8. P Jones

    Starting a smithy...

    I don't have much to add that others already have. I've experimented with brick forges on a small scale for HT before moving to a round full-sized forge body. It's one thing to read on here about a flame swirling around for an equal heat and another to see it in action. I always remember the brick forges not being since there was always an obvious hot spot where a cylindrical body does a better job of spreading the flame. Just my preference though, built properly both should work. As for grinders, if you know for certain that you like bladesmithing and will stick with the hobby, a good 2x72" grinder is probably the safest investment you can make. Outside the forge all the work I do on a blade revolves around the grinder. Profiling, beveling, polishing, handle shaping, just about everything I can do besides drilling holes and fine file work. You WILL get your money's worth out of them. If you have the motor you can throw in a VFD or pulley system to adjust the speed. The only question left is are you going to make your own chassis or buy one. I didn't trust my welding skills, so I bought the one from Oregon Blade Maker. High quality and good price. If you want to save a few bucks and make your own, there's plenty of designs out there.
  9. P Jones

    1st and 2nd knives Finished

    Those look really good for your first few attempts, certainly a lot better than mine was. One thing to consider for the leather sheaths is a burnishing tool. Makes the edge look slick and uniform. Easy cheap tool that goes a long way into making your work look higher quality.
  10. I have a friend I work with who showed me this when he found out that I like to forge blades. He said he had an old damascus blade from WWI or before, which struck me as odd because as far as I know modern pattern welds is more more recent trend. He thinks it might be an original damascus blade, but it's a bayonet and the pattern just doesn't look like wootz to me. We tried looking up the mark on the blade but couldn't find anything. Anyone have any ideas what this is?
  11. P Jones

    New Forge Concept

    Thanks for the info so far. Did some reading (thanks for the thread Geoff), made some adjustments, and started ordering some parts. All of them are in, put together the burner since that's really just a matter of screwing in the pipe and testing the lines. Did a test burn and... There's a gate valve on the other end of the hose just off the blower that isn't in the picture and a ball valve on the gas line. That one's visible, but the handle is flush with the line towards the ground. It took awhile to figure out the fuel/air mixture needed, and I gotta say I'm surprised at just how little air is needed to get the flame sustained. I thought it would be near full open, but 3 psi on the tank doesn't need much. I'll probably play around with it more tomorrow and paint the pipe black, but for now it's nice to know it works.
  12. P Jones

    splotchy/uneven etching

    It wasn't damascus, but I made a normal knife and etched the surface to get a black finish. It all came out pretty even. Nothing complicated with the process, I polished the knife to 1200 grit, buffed it, with rubber gloves wiped it down with acetone and then let it sit in 1:3 ferric chloride and distilled white vinegar mix. I didn't get the usual splotches and water marks I was so used to before and the finish came out pretty even.
  13. P Jones

    AC Motors and VFDs

    What I was getting at is that 115V motors don’t use VFDs. You can still have the outlet and a VFD that’ll convert it, but the motor itself is still 220V. Thats just the only reason I can think why it would say you shouldn’t use a VFD on it.
  14. P Jones

    AC Motors and VFDs

    What voltage does the motor run on? If it’s 115V then VFDs don’t work on them. Heres a a little more info on them http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/the-dirt-on-drives.html?m=0
  15. P Jones

    New Forge Concept

    Photos should be good now. Photobucket apparently charges for hosting images, so I had to switch to a different site.