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P Jones

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  1. People usually go through the lower grit belts the most. Personally I use 80 grit belts for general shaping and profiling, specifically the blaze ceramic belts. For wood I use whatever cheap AO belts I can find, normally from Combat Abrasives mentioned earlier above. The rest for metal (wood you generally use AO) I use the 3M Trizact belts, and I absolutely love them. They stay good for a long time, the ones I got months ago still holding up. Like Andrew said though, everyone seems to have their own preference and even then its always changing.
  2. OK Gotcha. Risked water quenching the blade and a learning experience occurred. Cracks along the edge etc. On the plus side it did harden and I could see a hamon upon etching it. I'll have to start over again either way, but thanks for the help.
  3. Thanks for the response. I played around and just heated the steel then watch it cool off. I can see the shadow Zeb's referring to. Just to see that I understand it right, the shadow is the crystal structure using energy to change from one structure to the other, and while it's cooling the color just before the shadow is the target temp for quenching? I did give it another go using that method and ground away some of the surface before file testing again. The was a noticeable difference that time. I'll have to try the blade itself again in a little while here. Thanks for the tips on the hamon btw. I'll probably risk water on the next try to see how that goes.
  4. Ok, so I'm in the middle of a project making a blade with a hamon and got to the point where I was ready for the quench. I do all my normal steps and after it cools I grind off the scale and do a quick dip in acid to get a sneak peak at the pattern and to make sure everything worked. Nothing. This is probably the third attempt for me in making a hamon. The second had a slightly visible line, but not too defined. So a thought occurred to me: maybe the blade just didn't harden. I took a file and compared the sound to an untreated piece of the same steel. They both sounded exactly the same. So to get a little practice in before I try the quench again, I cut off a couple of strips of steel and prepare a bit of an experiment. Three pieces total, the two I cut and the original bar of steel. The first would be quenched in water, the second in AAA oil, and the two would be compared to the original piece as well as each other. The oil preheated until I can only touch it for a little more than a second. Heat both pieces in a dark garage until they're about a dull orange color and quench each one. Pull them out, set them in a vice, and file test all three. They still sound the same with the file biting into all three pieces. I'm just stumped at the moment. I used this post from Zeb as a reference in the process. The steel is 1075. I'm looking around to see what information I can dig up, but I'm not sure what exactly I'm doing wrong. Is the steel too hot/cool before the quench, is this the wrong quench material (I also have a can of canola oil I can use), or are the gremlins responsible?
  5. I’d be curious to see if there is a reason someone knows of, but I don’t see any obvious ones. From what I understand, there’s no reason a folder shouldn’t be able to work with only a pair of wooden scales and some pins.
  6. Made a simple sheath for it today. A little oversized, but it does its job. With that this project is complete.
  7. The tools you need depends on how deep you want to get with it. You can technically get away with a drill for holes, some glue or other adhesive, leather sewing thread and needles, and a sharp blade to cut the leather. However, tools such as pricking irons, burnishing tools, dyes, and leather punches/carving tools will go towards making the end result more refined. Tandy's does have an online store you can buy from and I have found their leather to be a better deal than most online retailers. I don't know where you live so I can't say what shipping is like unfortunately. If you're near a Hobby Lobby, they do sell some simple leather crafting tools, enough to get you started. I'd stay away from their actual leather though, it always seemed a bit overpriced to me.
  8. There’s a slight amount of play in it, and I mean just enough to notice, but it holds in place just fine. I haven’t torture tested it, but it’s solid with normal use. Most diagrams I’ve seen show a round notch, but a square would probably hold better now that you mention it. Fit would have to be near perfect.
  9. Yup that happens to me all the time, I don't know if its just that common or my stick welding skills suck (which they do). I just gave up on the rebar and left one piece of metal a little longer than the rest so I could grab onto with the tongs.
  10. It took me about 3 tries before I really started to get the whole thing to stick. Heat control killed me the first time too, had the outside layers hot enough but not the inside. Heat control and having a clean welding surface are the two most important factors for me in getting a good weld. Once I realized that suddenly I could do it all day (or at least until the propane ran out).
  11. I posted a picture of the blade a few days ago in another forum, and now I've completed the handle to go with it. It's my first attempt at a folding knife, and it functions as well as I have hoped it would. That said, the blade's a little shot for the handle, it could've easily been half an inch shorter. Grind lines on the blade weren't perfectly symmetrical (one side's noticeably straighter than the other). The internal parts I felt could've been shaped and placed better, but what's there works. I had to make some last minute adjustments, mainly that the original spring was supposed to be straight, but would bend too far and not return to shape. I had to make another cut and another longer spring with a curve. I'm glad I went through with that, it cost me an extra day's work (I had to remake the scales as well, first ones broke) but the result was a much better spring and pieces that fit better together. I was close to saying "$%^& it close enough" at one point, but if I did the project would have ended in a disaster. It was definitely an interesting project and I've looked up some information to put towards my next one. So I don't really have a question per say, just If anyone sees anything obvious I'm always open to advice.
  12. About knowing if the weld took, once you think the weld is set flip the billet on its side and try to upset it. If its a good weld the metal should bulge on the ends like you would normally expect it to. If not, you'll start to see the pieces come apart. At least that's a good way to tell if you're still working it in the forge. Otherwise once it cools if you cut into the metal you'll see the delamination if it didn't take.
  13. Worked on a small blade for a folding knife, got through with the etch. It's for a grab bag gift for a family reunion coming up, gotta work on the handle itself next.
  14. That pic does look like there's a secondary bevel on it. Most people just refer to it as the edge or the cutting edge.
  15. Quick and easy question: I've been meaning to make a dedicated tempering oven. Not just a toaster oven with a PID attached to it, but one that's shaped so that I can fit longer blades inside and can hold a good consistent temperature. I found this thread on the forums and it seemed just right and easy enough to make. Plus is didn't cost much all things considered. Most of the materials were already mentioned there, except for one and that's only because the page that was linked no longer exists. It concerned the heating element, and I'm not sure exactly what type to get for an oven such as this. Also I'm looking at this PID, which also comes with a thermocouple, heat sink, and a SSR. It's just the first one I found with a lot of stars on Amazon, but some of the reviews are leaving me with doubts. If anyone knows any better options (within a reasonable price range), I'm all ears. Most threads seem to lean towards Auber Instruments, but they are referring to heat treat ovens +1000 degrees where I just want 500-600 max. I just want to make sure what I get isn't overkill.
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