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P Jones

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  1. I've strayed away from Feibling's dyes recently in favor of Eco-Flo Waterstain dye. Feibling like Alan said has very little variation with the colors, and all their browns are almost the same shade. Another more expensive method I've used to get a more uniform application of dye is to use an airbrush. I do that for when I add a sunburst affect around the edge, but I've also noticed its easier to avoid splotches that way. I would follow Alan's advice first though. Doesn't require extra pricey tools that way.
  2. I'm a little slow in getting to a response with work and all, but thanks to everyone for the input. The most I'm looking into for my grinder is a 3 HP motor + the vfd to go with it. Anything over that'll probably be overkill. But yeah that all helps make a little more sense out of it. I'll have to decide now which components to get before I leave before my next rotation.
  3. So I ran into an issue in my shop the other day. Went in to get some work done just to discover the VFD I have for the grinder is having issues. Now, I could go through the trouble of getting it sent in and repaired, but then I thought about an opportunity here. I just put in a 230v outlet for my welder and figured if I had the outlet and the money, I might as well get a setup for some more power behind my grinder. So I started shopping around and doing my research and while I know what I want, I'm just not sure on the details. My last setup was a 115v input setup, so the wiring was a little easier for me to understand. This hasn't been bad, but from what I've read the outlets you use for a welder generally aren't the type that are typically used for a grinder. Most recommend a 20 amp connection, where mine is 50. To be more specific, its a 230v single phase 50 amp outlet. Now the question is that while most VFDs specify the input and phase of the power, they don't mention the amps. So I don't know exactly what I'm missing here. How can I tell whether the amperage will work for a VFD? I feel like the answer is something really simple but I can't place my finger on it.
  4. People usually go through the lower grit belts the most. Personally I use 80 grit belts for general shaping and profiling, specifically the blaze ceramic belts. For wood I use whatever cheap AO belts I can find, normally from Combat Abrasives mentioned earlier above. The rest for metal (wood you generally use AO) I use the 3M Trizact belts, and I absolutely love them. They stay good for a long time, the ones I got months ago still holding up. Like Andrew said though, everyone seems to have their own preference and even then its always changing.
  5. OK Gotcha. Risked water quenching the blade and a learning experience occurred. Cracks along the edge etc. On the plus side it did harden and I could see a hamon upon etching it. I'll have to start over again either way, but thanks for the help.
  6. Thanks for the response. I played around and just heated the steel then watch it cool off. I can see the shadow Zeb's referring to. Just to see that I understand it right, the shadow is the crystal structure using energy to change from one structure to the other, and while it's cooling the color just before the shadow is the target temp for quenching? I did give it another go using that method and ground away some of the surface before file testing again. The was a noticeable difference that time. I'll have to try the blade itself again in a little while here. Thanks for the tips on the hamon btw. I'll probably risk water on the next try to see how that goes.
  7. Ok, so I'm in the middle of a project making a blade with a hamon and got to the point where I was ready for the quench. I do all my normal steps and after it cools I grind off the scale and do a quick dip in acid to get a sneak peak at the pattern and to make sure everything worked. Nothing. This is probably the third attempt for me in making a hamon. The second had a slightly visible line, but not too defined. So a thought occurred to me: maybe the blade just didn't harden. I took a file and compared the sound to an untreated piece of the same steel. They both sounded exactly the same. So to get a little practice in before I try the quench again, I cut off a couple of strips of steel and prepare a bit of an experiment. Three pieces total, the two I cut and the original bar of steel. The first would be quenched in water, the second in AAA oil, and the two would be compared to the original piece as well as each other. The oil preheated until I can only touch it for a little more than a second. Heat both pieces in a dark garage until they're about a dull orange color and quench each one. Pull them out, set them in a vice, and file test all three. They still sound the same with the file biting into all three pieces. I'm just stumped at the moment. I used this post from Zeb as a reference in the process. The steel is 1075. I'm looking around to see what information I can dig up, but I'm not sure what exactly I'm doing wrong. Is the steel too hot/cool before the quench, is this the wrong quench material (I also have a can of canola oil I can use), or are the gremlins responsible?
  8. I’d be curious to see if there is a reason someone knows of, but I don’t see any obvious ones. From what I understand, there’s no reason a folder shouldn’t be able to work with only a pair of wooden scales and some pins.
  9. Made a simple sheath for it today. A little oversized, but it does its job. With that this project is complete.
  10. The tools you need depends on how deep you want to get with it. You can technically get away with a drill for holes, some glue or other adhesive, leather sewing thread and needles, and a sharp blade to cut the leather. However, tools such as pricking irons, burnishing tools, dyes, and leather punches/carving tools will go towards making the end result more refined. Tandy's does have an online store you can buy from and I have found their leather to be a better deal than most online retailers. I don't know where you live so I can't say what shipping is like unfortunately. If you're near a Hobby Lobby, they do sell some simple leather crafting tools, enough to get you started. I'd stay away from their actual leather though, it always seemed a bit overpriced to me.
  11. There’s a slight amount of play in it, and I mean just enough to notice, but it holds in place just fine. I haven’t torture tested it, but it’s solid with normal use. Most diagrams I’ve seen show a round notch, but a square would probably hold better now that you mention it. Fit would have to be near perfect.
  12. Yup that happens to me all the time, I don't know if its just that common or my stick welding skills suck (which they do). I just gave up on the rebar and left one piece of metal a little longer than the rest so I could grab onto with the tongs.
  13. It took me about 3 tries before I really started to get the whole thing to stick. Heat control killed me the first time too, had the outside layers hot enough but not the inside. Heat control and having a clean welding surface are the two most important factors for me in getting a good weld. Once I realized that suddenly I could do it all day (or at least until the propane ran out).
  14. I posted a picture of the blade a few days ago in another forum, and now I've completed the handle to go with it. It's my first attempt at a folding knife, and it functions as well as I have hoped it would. That said, the blade's a little shot for the handle, it could've easily been half an inch shorter. Grind lines on the blade weren't perfectly symmetrical (one side's noticeably straighter than the other). The internal parts I felt could've been shaped and placed better, but what's there works. I had to make some last minute adjustments, mainly that the original spring was supposed to be straight, but would bend too far and not return to shape. I had to make another cut and another longer spring with a curve. I'm glad I went through with that, it cost me an extra day's work (I had to remake the scales as well, first ones broke) but the result was a much better spring and pieces that fit better together. I was close to saying "$%^& it close enough" at one point, but if I did the project would have ended in a disaster. It was definitely an interesting project and I've looked up some information to put towards my next one. So I don't really have a question per say, just If anyone sees anything obvious I'm always open to advice.
  15. About knowing if the weld took, once you think the weld is set flip the billet on its side and try to upset it. If its a good weld the metal should bulge on the ends like you would normally expect it to. If not, you'll start to see the pieces come apart. At least that's a good way to tell if you're still working it in the forge. Otherwise once it cools if you cut into the metal you'll see the delamination if it didn't take.
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