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    • Alan Longmire

      IMPORTANT Registration rules   02/12/2017

      Use your real name or you will NOT get in.  No aliases or nicknames, no numerals in your name. Do not use the words knives, blades, swords, forge, smith (unless that is your name of course) etc. We are all bladesmiths and knifemakers here.  If you feel you need an exception or are having difficulty registering, send a personal email to the forum registrar here.  

P Jones

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  1. 1st and 2nd knives Finished

    lol that'll happen. If you haven't found out already just apply some water on the edge and start rubbin.
  2. Unknown Mark on a Friend's Knife

    I didn't think it was any type of wootz or pattern weld, didn't look enough like either. Still though, that gives us something to pin it on or at least look a little more into. Thanks for the info.
  3. Starting a smithy...

    I don't have much to add that others already have. I've experimented with brick forges on a small scale for HT before moving to a round full-sized forge body. It's one thing to read on here about a flame swirling around for an equal heat and another to see it in action. I always remember the brick forges not being since there was always an obvious hot spot where a cylindrical body does a better job of spreading the flame. Just my preference though, built properly both should work. As for grinders, if you know for certain that you like bladesmithing and will stick with the hobby, a good 2x72" grinder is probably the safest investment you can make. Outside the forge all the work I do on a blade revolves around the grinder. Profiling, beveling, polishing, handle shaping, just about everything I can do besides drilling holes and fine file work. You WILL get your money's worth out of them. If you have the motor you can throw in a VFD or pulley system to adjust the speed. The only question left is are you going to make your own chassis or buy one. I didn't trust my welding skills, so I bought the one from Oregon Blade Maker. High quality and good price. If you want to save a few bucks and make your own, there's plenty of designs out there.
  4. 1st and 2nd knives Finished

    Those look really good for your first few attempts, certainly a lot better than mine was. One thing to consider for the leather sheaths is a burnishing tool. Makes the edge look slick and uniform. Easy cheap tool that goes a long way into making your work look higher quality.
  5. I have a friend I work with who showed me this when he found out that I like to forge blades. He said he had an old damascus blade from WWI or before, which struck me as odd because as far as I know modern pattern welds is more more recent trend. He thinks it might be an original damascus blade, but it's a bayonet and the pattern just doesn't look like wootz to me. We tried looking up the mark on the blade but couldn't find anything. Anyone have any ideas what this is?
  6. New Forge Concept

    Thanks for the info so far. Did some reading (thanks for the thread Geoff), made some adjustments, and started ordering some parts. All of them are in, put together the burner since that's really just a matter of screwing in the pipe and testing the lines. Did a test burn and... There's a gate valve on the other end of the hose just off the blower that isn't in the picture and a ball valve on the gas line. That one's visible, but the handle is flush with the line towards the ground. It took awhile to figure out the fuel/air mixture needed, and I gotta say I'm surprised at just how little air is needed to get the flame sustained. I thought it would be near full open, but 3 psi on the tank doesn't need much. I'll probably play around with it more tomorrow and paint the pipe black, but for now it's nice to know it works.
  7. splotchy/uneven etching

    It wasn't damascus, but I made a normal knife and etched the surface to get a black finish. It all came out pretty even. Nothing complicated with the process, I polished the knife to 1200 grit, buffed it, with rubber gloves wiped it down with acetone and then let it sit in 1:3 ferric chloride and distilled white vinegar mix. I didn't get the usual splotches and water marks I was so used to before and the finish came out pretty even.
  8. AC Motors and VFDs

    What I was getting at is that 115V motors don’t use VFDs. You can still have the outlet and a VFD that’ll convert it, but the motor itself is still 220V. Thats just the only reason I can think why it would say you shouldn’t use a VFD on it.
  9. AC Motors and VFDs

    What voltage does the motor run on? If it’s 115V then VFDs don’t work on them. Heres a a little more info on them http://dcknives.blogspot.com/p/the-dirt-on-drives.html?m=0
  10. New Forge Concept

    Photos should be good now. Photobucket apparently charges for hosting images, so I had to switch to a different site.
  11. New Forge Concept

    Thank you for the quick replies. Good advice and the exact kind of information I was hoping for. I checked the forum one more time to see if there was already info pinned before posting, I didn't think to check outside the Beginner's Place and the forging forums. I'll be reading over that post a few times and make adjustments to my design. Okay, that's one thing most material I've watched/read never really mentioned about the gas orifice. I figured the burner still needed it just because it was used in the venturi burner. Honestly it was the biggest question I had. The firebrick is meant to be used as a surface to set the metal down on while the forge is in use, or do you think that could negatively impact the performance somehow? But yeah I didn't mention it in any of the diagrams, I planned on using some sort of refractory to coat the wool, however I've never considered using some type of reflective coating, so I'll definitely take that into account here.
  12. New Forge Concept

    Beginner's Place seemed appropriate for this. So I'm in the process of planning out my next forge. I'm not completely new at this game, I'm already made a small charcoal forge (which ended up failing) and a venturi gas forge (which works). All my tool and equipment before were mostly cheap tools or improvised, so now I'm slowly working at buying/making proper bladesmithing gear. The next on the chopping block is my forge. Now my other isn't bad, it's actually a pretty nice little forge, was even able to do some forge welding with it. The problem is that it isn't the most well-put together forges and internal temp isn't quite as high as I would like. I don't have anything put together yet, just some concepts drawn up on Paint. Beware, the photos are pretty high quality. The body I'm making is from a steel tube I got from a buddy. A little overkill but its free. The rest of the dimensions are in the pictures and the burners I'm planning on making forced air this time around. I feel like I've got the main concepts down, but there are some questions I have that I can't seem to find after hours of searching. -1 burner should be enough in this case to maintain forge welding temperatures, correct? I saw somewhere to make it one burner for every 350 cu/in, this one comes up to 340 (3" radius & 12 long chamber)(the image above in incorrect with the volume, that was before I planned on trimming the size of the tube down) -Do I need the flair at the end of the burner for a forced air burner? Is so what size would I need from a 1" pipe or does it not really matter? -for the fuel jet I was planning on using a brass plug with a hole drilled in it. It's a 1" pipe, and I've seen people mention using a #57 drill bit for the hole. Does this sound right? If not what size should work for this size burner? So yeah. If anyone's willing to give me some direction with this, help's always appreciated. Also if anyone sees anything wrong with the design and is willing to point it out, I'm not the kind to disregard bad advice. And before I forget, I intend on using this forge mainly for making small and large knives and to do some forge welding, therefor its important for me to make a forge than can hold forge forge welding temps. EDIT: Yeah, so as it turns out Photobucket charges users a premium for third party hosting. Anyone looking to share their images just use cubeupload instead.