Jump to content

P Jones

Members
  • Content Count

    44
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by P Jones

  1. I can't really give an input on a wide variety of different presses, but I can at least give my two cents on mine. I have a Coal Ironworks 16-ton press. I got it specifically because it could run on a 110V extension cord and it wasn't too expensive. It's well made, and even though they have an upgraded hydraulics package to make it run faster, I don't think I'd want it since it already runs at a good speed for me. It does exactly what I need it to do, squeeze hot metal, and it holds up. If their 16-ton model is any indication, I'd bet their 25-ton one is just as well made.
  2. I've strayed away from Feibling's dyes recently in favor of Eco-Flo Waterstain dye. Feibling like Alan said has very little variation with the colors, and all their browns are almost the same shade. Another more expensive method I've used to get a more uniform application of dye is to use an airbrush. I do that for when I add a sunburst affect around the edge, but I've also noticed its easier to avoid splotches that way. I would follow Alan's advice first though. Doesn't require extra pricey tools that way.
  3. I'm a little slow in getting to a response with work and all, but thanks to everyone for the input. The most I'm looking into for my grinder is a 3 HP motor + the vfd to go with it. Anything over that'll probably be overkill. But yeah that all helps make a little more sense out of it. I'll have to decide now which components to get before I leave before my next rotation.
  4. So I ran into an issue in my shop the other day. Went in to get some work done just to discover the VFD I have for the grinder is having issues. Now, I could go through the trouble of getting it sent in and repaired, but then I thought about an opportunity here. I just put in a 230v outlet for my welder and figured if I had the outlet and the money, I might as well get a setup for some more power behind my grinder. So I started shopping around and doing my research and while I know what I want, I'm just not sure on the details. My last setup was a 115v input setup, so the wiring was a little easier for me to understand. This hasn't been bad, but from what I've read the outlets you use for a welder generally aren't the type that are typically used for a grinder. Most recommend a 20 amp connection, where mine is 50. To be more specific, its a 230v single phase 50 amp outlet. Now the question is that while most VFDs specify the input and phase of the power, they don't mention the amps. So I don't know exactly what I'm missing here. How can I tell whether the amperage will work for a VFD? I feel like the answer is something really simple but I can't place my finger on it.
  5. People usually go through the lower grit belts the most. Personally I use 80 grit belts for general shaping and profiling, specifically the blaze ceramic belts. For wood I use whatever cheap AO belts I can find, normally from Combat Abrasives mentioned earlier above. The rest for metal (wood you generally use AO) I use the 3M Trizact belts, and I absolutely love them. They stay good for a long time, the ones I got months ago still holding up. Like Andrew said though, everyone seems to have their own preference and even then its always changing.
  6. OK Gotcha. Risked water quenching the blade and a learning experience occurred. Cracks along the edge etc. On the plus side it did harden and I could see a hamon upon etching it. I'll have to start over again either way, but thanks for the help.
  7. Thanks for the response. I played around and just heated the steel then watch it cool off. I can see the shadow Zeb's referring to. Just to see that I understand it right, the shadow is the crystal structure using energy to change from one structure to the other, and while it's cooling the color just before the shadow is the target temp for quenching? I did give it another go using that method and ground away some of the surface before file testing again. The was a noticeable difference that time. I'll have to try the blade itself again in a little while here. Thanks for the tips on the hamon btw. I'll probably risk water on the next try to see how that goes.
  8. Ok, so I'm in the middle of a project making a blade with a hamon and got to the point where I was ready for the quench. I do all my normal steps and after it cools I grind off the scale and do a quick dip in acid to get a sneak peak at the pattern and to make sure everything worked. Nothing. This is probably the third attempt for me in making a hamon. The second had a slightly visible line, but not too defined. So a thought occurred to me: maybe the blade just didn't harden. I took a file and compared the sound to an untreated piece of the same steel. They both sounded exactly the same. So to get a little practice in before I try the quench again, I cut off a couple of strips of steel and prepare a bit of an experiment. Three pieces total, the two I cut and the original bar of steel. The first would be quenched in water, the second in AAA oil, and the two would be compared to the original piece as well as each other. The oil preheated until I can only touch it for a little more than a second. Heat both pieces in a dark garage until they're about a dull orange color and quench each one. Pull them out, set them in a vice, and file test all three. They still sound the same with the file biting into all three pieces. I'm just stumped at the moment. I used this post from Zeb as a reference in the process. The steel is 1075. I'm looking around to see what information I can dig up, but I'm not sure what exactly I'm doing wrong. Is the steel too hot/cool before the quench, is this the wrong quench material (I also have a can of canola oil I can use), or are the gremlins responsible?
  9. I’d be curious to see if there is a reason someone knows of, but I don’t see any obvious ones. From what I understand, there’s no reason a folder shouldn’t be able to work with only a pair of wooden scales and some pins.
  10. Made a simple sheath for it today. A little oversized, but it does its job. With that this project is complete.
  11. The tools you need depends on how deep you want to get with it. You can technically get away with a drill for holes, some glue or other adhesive, leather sewing thread and needles, and a sharp blade to cut the leather. However, tools such as pricking irons, burnishing tools, dyes, and leather punches/carving tools will go towards making the end result more refined. Tandy's does have an online store you can buy from and I have found their leather to be a better deal than most online retailers. I don't know where you live so I can't say what shipping is like unfortunately. If you're near a Hobby Lobby, they do sell some simple leather crafting tools, enough to get you started. I'd stay away from their actual leather though, it always seemed a bit overpriced to me.
  12. There’s a slight amount of play in it, and I mean just enough to notice, but it holds in place just fine. I haven’t torture tested it, but it’s solid with normal use. Most diagrams I’ve seen show a round notch, but a square would probably hold better now that you mention it. Fit would have to be near perfect.
  13. Yup that happens to me all the time, I don't know if its just that common or my stick welding skills suck (which they do). I just gave up on the rebar and left one piece of metal a little longer than the rest so I could grab onto with the tongs.
  14. It took me about 3 tries before I really started to get the whole thing to stick. Heat control killed me the first time too, had the outside layers hot enough but not the inside. Heat control and having a clean welding surface are the two most important factors for me in getting a good weld. Once I realized that suddenly I could do it all day (or at least until the propane ran out).
  15. I posted a picture of the blade a few days ago in another forum, and now I've completed the handle to go with it. It's my first attempt at a folding knife, and it functions as well as I have hoped it would. That said, the blade's a little shot for the handle, it could've easily been half an inch shorter. Grind lines on the blade weren't perfectly symmetrical (one side's noticeably straighter than the other). The internal parts I felt could've been shaped and placed better, but what's there works. I had to make some last minute adjustments, mainly that the original spring was supposed to be straight, but would bend too far and not return to shape. I had to make another cut and another longer spring with a curve. I'm glad I went through with that, it cost me an extra day's work (I had to remake the scales as well, first ones broke) but the result was a much better spring and pieces that fit better together. I was close to saying "$%^& it close enough" at one point, but if I did the project would have ended in a disaster. It was definitely an interesting project and I've looked up some information to put towards my next one. So I don't really have a question per say, just If anyone sees anything obvious I'm always open to advice.
  16. About knowing if the weld took, once you think the weld is set flip the billet on its side and try to upset it. If its a good weld the metal should bulge on the ends like you would normally expect it to. If not, you'll start to see the pieces come apart. At least that's a good way to tell if you're still working it in the forge. Otherwise once it cools if you cut into the metal you'll see the delamination if it didn't take.
  17. Worked on a small blade for a folding knife, got through with the etch. It's for a grab bag gift for a family reunion coming up, gotta work on the handle itself next.
  18. That pic does look like there's a secondary bevel on it. Most people just refer to it as the edge or the cutting edge.
  19. Quick and easy question: I've been meaning to make a dedicated tempering oven. Not just a toaster oven with a PID attached to it, but one that's shaped so that I can fit longer blades inside and can hold a good consistent temperature. I found this thread on the forums and it seemed just right and easy enough to make. Plus is didn't cost much all things considered. Most of the materials were already mentioned there, except for one and that's only because the page that was linked no longer exists. It concerned the heating element, and I'm not sure exactly what type to get for an oven such as this. Also I'm looking at this PID, which also comes with a thermocouple, heat sink, and a SSR. It's just the first one I found with a lot of stars on Amazon, but some of the reviews are leaving me with doubts. If anyone knows any better options (within a reasonable price range), I'm all ears. Most threads seem to lean towards Auber Instruments, but they are referring to heat treat ovens +1000 degrees where I just want 500-600 max. I just want to make sure what I get isn't overkill.
  20. 88 layers. I was planning to do 80 but I ended up with an extra piece of 15N20 after cutting the metal. The handle's going to be a hidden tang. I have a piece of steel taken from a railroad tie clip that I pressed down a bit, that'll become the bolster. After that is going to be a mixture of black G10 and brass sheets layered together and two pieces of black walnut (from his old house) used like scales. I saw someone on this forum do this, it seemed like a really good idea. The last detail is going to be three mosaic pins helping to hold it all together.
  21. 15N20 and some extra 1095 I had lying around.
  22. So I put a few new toys to the test a couple of days ago and began on this year's Fathers Day gift. He's been dropping a lot of "subtle" hints ever since I started this hobby essentially detailing exactly what he wanted me to make. I've been holding off on it since when I did do it one, I wanted it to be presentable and two, I wanted it to be the best I can make. So I've been holding off until I could really get pattern welding down and now its there. This is the first time I've made a pattern welded blade while having next to no cracks where the weld didn't take, and those were easily grounded away. Still have a lot of work to be done, the handle is going to be almost as big a project as the blade.
  23. Thanks for the quick suggestions. The sparks came after the third fold and the weld wasn't really taking, so I went a little overboard with it. But I'll try backing off a little bit the next time I'm at it, and if it still seems high I'll probably give a smaller tube a shot.
  24. Quick question for anyone reading this. I made a new forge w/ a blown burner about a month or two ago. Works good, got the performance I was hoping for. Wanted to do some pattern welding so I cranked up the air and fuel and had the metal shooting sparks at me. Problem was that this burner was drinking propane, I ran through a tank in a matter of hours. Even before when doing some basic forging my 30 lbs tank seemed to go a little faster than normal. I'm getting about 5 hours of forging with this burner where before with my venturi burner I was getting 8+. The burner is 2" or 2 1/2", I forget exactly which. Would reducing the burner to about 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" help with fuel consumption while also delivering enough heat to the forge? Forge is circular 350 cu in with 2" insulation, furnace refractory, ITC-100 coating with the burner aligned to get a swirling flame if that helps with the question.
  25. I'm not an expert in motors, at least not where knowledge between brands and such is concerned. I know enough to make a system that works. A few things to understand. First what power outlets are available to you? I'm limited to 120V, so that narrows my choices when choosing a motor/VFD. I can still get them, but realistically I'm limited to a 1.5HP motor. Some of those choices have a 240V input for the VFD and some have a 120V. Second, some of those motors are non-vented (TENV), which considering that grinders will be run for long periods of time, having a fan to keep it cool would imo be mandatory. The magic letters I look for are TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled). I'm not saying for sure that TENV can't be used, just that I don't know if they're the best choice. Third, keep the motor frame type in mind. That's going to determine the size of the arbor for when you're looking at drive wheels. Third, I don't know if the packages are different, but generally when getting the motor you're going to have to wire it yourself. That means wiring/crimping tools and a basic understanding of wiring diagrams. The motors will come with one, often on the motor itself, and so will the VFD. Like I said before, I like the OBM chassis, just it requires some effort on your part. When I put mine together I followed the advice this gentleman put on his review. I used this VFD and while I couldn't find my exact motor it was almost identical to this one. To directly answer your question, if I had to pick between those options I would choose either this one if I had a 230V power source or this one if I was limited to 120V. Same motor, different VFD for different voltage inputs. Why? TEFC, 3600RPM, 1.5HP, price looks fair. I don't like the first one simply because the motor is 1800RPM, I prefer 3600RPM. Personal preference, you can make a sheave system to compensate for it, I just prefer the simplicity of a direct drive wheel. I can't say if Leesons are any better, I don't know brands too well. Just a little more reading material to take up your time, I read this guys material all the time and it has all been extremely useful to me. This one explains electric motors/vfds for grinders, this one explains the importance of belt speed, and this one is a calculator he made to help you get the speed you're looking for. It helped me, hopefully it helps you as well. There's a lot of guys here who really are experts with AC motors, so hopefully they'll chime in and give you some good advice as well.
×
×
  • Create New...