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Conner Michaux

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Everything posted by Conner Michaux

  1. This is my first attempt at making a Yakut knife, I think it went well. W2 steel with black ash burl. Sharpening to 0 and it is scary sharp. The edge is so thin it will bend over my fingernail and back to perfectly straight. There are a number of small aesthetic issues I forgot to address. And One grinder slip I was not able to fix if you have any critique I would love it hear it. Thanks and good evening.
  2. Sorry I completely forgot to respond to ya. I just finished shaping the handle using nothing but a surface grinder. The handle is super comfy and looks really great. Bad quality image unfortunately.. E8FCD0C6-536F-4C8D-B7AF-5534EF241F2B.MOV
  3. It’s an amazing place that’s for sure! Today was the Yellowstone Grand Canyon and a few other falls and springs in mammoth. The pictures don’t really do the canyon justice. When do elk normally lose the velvet off their antlers?
  4. Going to mammoth falls and the Grand Canyon Of Yellowstone, I will get some pics in here by tonight. I have a few of the elk and buffalo as well.
  5. (pic heavy) The Family took a little trip to Yellowstone this week and I thought I would share a few of the pics I got. (well actually a lot) The hot springs and vents fascinate me so I spent most of my time looking at those.
  6. Thanks, I’ll check I out, i Need to get some of that borax and I will start experimenting with it.
  7. Yeah I may end up with half a treadmill in my shop. I will start taking it apart soon. Hopefully I don’t break everything!
  8. I have a 1/3 hp craftsman belt and disc sander and I would like to try putting a new motor on it to make it more powerful. We have an old treadmill that we are going to get rid of and I would like to pull the motor out and use it. The motor is 3 CHP which as far as i understand means that the motor will run comfortably at 3 HP without hurting the motor. Now I know that 3 horse power is to much for a 2x42 sander, but are there ways to reduce the speed using belts and pulleys? I don't know if this is at all possible but I figured I will just ask. Edit I forgot that treadmills alread
  9. Handle material is here, Its a block of black ash burl, Its got a warp in it which is kind of concerning because I don't really know how to work around it. I can't grind it out because that will leave too little material to drill the tang hole. I think I will be alright though.
  10. He’s a shiny little thing.. Kind of pointless taking the bevel up to 800 before HT but I had nothing else to do.
  11. Bevel still has to be sanded and it needs to be heat treated but I made a thing..
  12. I forged out a second yakut tonight, Im trying out a different way to forge the fuller and it looks really nice, and more like historical examples. They are cooling down in the forge right now so I will get pics tomorrow.
  13. Other than the slight warp that’s left, this blade is going quite well. I’ve got the edge to an equal thickness on the stones. The only stone I have is a 400 grit and it’s not very flat so it’s kind of annoying to work on it. The convex bevel side is at 600 grit, I will have to go and sand it some more because it’s gotten a bit scratched up from the stone. I still have plenty of work left to do on the fuller side but I’m going to wait till I’ve got the handle started. Again, sorry for the awful pictures
  14. I normalize and heat treat at night without any light whatsoever so I couldn’t tell you, but I suspect it happened during the quench because of the fuller in the blade. After 4 or 5 half hour tempering/straightening cycles I was able to correct about 85% of it I decided that’s the best I’m going to get it. but it’s hard to tell because the spine is still brute de forge and therefor it has various small marks. Even though it’s not perfectly straight I think it will still be totally fine.
  15. Thanks! I did temper it right after quench for about an hour and a half at 395. I’ll the penny thing today.
  16. I HT my Yakut knife tonight and as expected it got a decent sized warp, luckily its not a ruffles potato chip warp, but instead a smooth curve. Im thinking of using shims in the temper but Im not sure of the placement of the shims. Sorry for the horrible pictures, my hands shake so the camera doesn't focus. Also, what is the estimated rockwell hardness of an old Nicholson file? No matter how hard i pushed into the blade the file skated. So im assuming its pretty dang hard. I think I may be getting somewhat good at this stuff, I still can't see decalescence but the second I se
  17. Here is a first attempt at a makers mark, I figured before my first sold knife goes to the post office tomorrow I should have some sort of mark on it, so I took a thin square file and made an M. It’s a little rough but with some practice it should look great
  18. This is the little fullering tool I made, ground one end convex and then filed it till it was a smooth round face then I heated it to an orange color and quenched in oil, then tempered it to a dark blue
  19. Started forging out this small Yakut knife. I made a small tool out of some coil spring to make the fuller.
  20. I am excited to say that I just sold this one
  21. Thanks for the info. Should I use a thin steel liner under the wood scales to add strength? I have some nice stabilized Koa wood I want to use, but I don’t know if scales will snap without a liner. Also, how thin should the scales be?
  22. I failed to mention, this is a friction folder.
  23. Before I start my kith I want to make 1 or 2 folders just to get an idea of what it’s like. I have my general design, but I am having a heck of a time trying to figure out the internals. What I want to do is use a pivot barrel and have some very thin washers between the wood and blade. I need some help figuring out where I should put the pivot and where the stopping pin should go, I have a hard time wrapping my head around this. I thought I would get a professional opinion on what this should like before i went ahead and screwed it up. Ignore all the previous pencil marks.
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