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Conner Michaux

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Everything posted by Conner Michaux

  1. Other than the slight warp that’s left, this blade is going quite well. I’ve got the edge to an equal thickness on the stones. The only stone I have is a 400 grit and it’s not very flat so it’s kind of annoying to work on it. The convex bevel side is at 600 grit, I will have to go and sand it some more because it’s gotten a bit scratched up from the stone. I still have plenty of work left to do on the fuller side but I’m going to wait till I’ve got the handle started. Again, sorry for the awful pictures
  2. I normalize and heat treat at night without any light whatsoever so I couldn’t tell you, but I suspect it happened during the quench because of the fuller in the blade. After 4 or 5 half hour tempering/straightening cycles I was able to correct about 85% of it I decided that’s the best I’m going to get it. but it’s hard to tell because the spine is still brute de forge and therefor it has various small marks. Even though it’s not perfectly straight I think it will still be totally fine.
  3. Thanks! I did temper it right after quench for about an hour and a half at 395. I’ll the penny thing today.
  4. I HT my Yakut knife tonight and as expected it got a decent sized warp, luckily its not a ruffles potato chip warp, but instead a smooth curve. Im thinking of using shims in the temper but Im not sure of the placement of the shims. Sorry for the horrible pictures, my hands shake so the camera doesn't focus. Also, what is the estimated rockwell hardness of an old Nicholson file? No matter how hard i pushed into the blade the file skated. So im assuming its pretty dang hard. I think I may be getting somewhat good at this stuff, I still can't see decalescence but the second I se
  5. Here is a first attempt at a makers mark, I figured before my first sold knife goes to the post office tomorrow I should have some sort of mark on it, so I took a thin square file and made an M. It’s a little rough but with some practice it should look great
  6. This is the little fullering tool I made, ground one end convex and then filed it till it was a smooth round face then I heated it to an orange color and quenched in oil, then tempered it to a dark blue
  7. Started forging out this small Yakut knife. I made a small tool out of some coil spring to make the fuller.
  8. I am excited to say that I just sold this one
  9. Thanks for the info. Should I use a thin steel liner under the wood scales to add strength? I have some nice stabilized Koa wood I want to use, but I don’t know if scales will snap without a liner. Also, how thin should the scales be?
  10. I failed to mention, this is a friction folder.
  11. Before I start my kith I want to make 1 or 2 folders just to get an idea of what it’s like. I have my general design, but I am having a heck of a time trying to figure out the internals. What I want to do is use a pivot barrel and have some very thin washers between the wood and blade. I need some help figuring out where I should put the pivot and where the stopping pin should go, I have a hard time wrapping my head around this. I thought I would get a professional opinion on what this should like before i went ahead and screwed it up. Ignore all the previous pencil marks.
  12. Thanks Jeremy! I’ve had many spills due to my acid jar deciding to walk off the shelf! Must be those blasted forge gnomes..
  13. 2" wide, 1/4" thick, 6" long. Is that alright? That way if I make a mistake I have enough to try again.
  14. If its no trouble for you, a little bit of that billet would really help me out a ton, thanks again.
  15. Thanks everyone. If hand hammering doesn’t work very well for the stainless San mai, would squishing it in the vice work?
  16. Thanks for the info. I will definitely try and figure out this wrought iron. Ive been looking at other sanmai recipes, How difficult is it to forge weld 420 or 410 stainless to w2? I have seen some pictures of stainless/high-carbon sanmai and I must say it is very cool.
  17. Yeah I might need that wagon tire.. For some reason, no matter how hot I forged this wrought it would not stop splitting down the middle, I was working it at a bright yellow heat and I wasn’t working it lower than bright orange. Dunno what’s up with it.
  18. I think it’s a cold shut, one wild hammer blow put an ugly dent into the edge, when I tried forging it flat it rolled over. And then that created a little stress point and cracked through the edge. I’m pretty sure that’s what happened. Oh well I’ll just go forge another.
  19. Well this kinda sucks... that’s right on the edge.
  20. Forged the tang and spike straight, and I’ve started drawfiling the bevels and shaping the profile. Is there any issue with the bevels being convex? Filing perfecting flat seems close to impossible.
  21. First attempt of forging this tanto, I think its decent. but there is a bit of curve in the spine and i had to hot cut the tip and reforge it so there is a bit of a burr that the dull hot cut left. but other than that its pretty close to the drawing.
  22. Ive been wanting to cook one of these for a very long time Ive never done a compound butter before so we will see how it tastes.
  23. First half of the cement pad is down, we were fighting a storm to keep the canopy over the cement so It wasn’t ruined, perfectly sunny weather until it wasn’t.. this is roughly 22, 80 pound bags of cement.
  24. Okay I get it now, thanks for the help.I will try making the sen today and I’ll start working on the blade This week.
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