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Conner Michaux

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Everything posted by Conner Michaux

  1. How should I go about putting the wool into the helium tank? I don't want to cut a massive hole into it because a big opening will let a lot of heat out. I'm going to cut the valve off now.
  2. Thanks for the info, I won’t cut the burner hole in I until I have it,. as to the doors, I was just going to cut a rectangular hole in both sides for doors, and then use fire bricks to cover it when I’m heating something up. Hopefully that will work to keep enough heat for forge welding in it. I want to keep everything as simple as possible, putting the burner together will be complicated enough.
  3. Thanks all, yep I’ve got plenty of Kaowool and satanite, probably enough wool for 2 layers, and some cast-able refractory to line the bottom with to protect the wool from flux. I’ll put it together tomorrow. The black beauty burner gets to welding heat right? I’m really hoping to do some wrapped tomahawks and a froe. Also, I don’t know how big of a hole to cut in the tank for the opening, and should I cut a vent In the back as well? I’m not doing anything huge right now so I don’t think a hole in the back is necessary. I think shooting it may be an option though, we will see
  4. So I’m going to change from a paint can to a small helium tank, the paint can is just too small, but this helium tank should work very well. I opened up the valve to let all the gas out, and it’s been open for a few weeks. How should I go about cutting into it? I don’t think the angle grinder is a good idea because the sparks will light up any gas that hasn’t got out yet.
  5. I follow all of your work on Instagram, this is definitely one of the coolest you guys have made. Great work
  6. I got to do some forging tonight, but it just led to further frustration of not being able to forge anything the way I want it to look like. Burned a bunch of stuff and melted some.
  7. Ive found Texas farrier supply has a good stock of rhynowet, Alecsteelco.com also has a bunch as well.
  8. Oh I like that one. I got out to the forge tonight and have started forging a big 2 foot long square taper, im going to make some sort of really big hook. I figured a taper of that size will help in some way or another.
  9. Unfortunately I don’t have very much time in the day due to schoolwork, when I have fuel and steel I usually try to get a few hours in a week, that’s if I have fuel and steel though. I’m going to do a little bit more modification to my forge, and then I will be able to make some bigger stuff.
  10. Thanks for the info all, I ask all my questions on the forum, but that doesn’t compare to having 1 on 1 mentoring. Ive looked everywhere I can find and the closest guild is 4 hours away. I’ll contact the Smiths in my area.
  11. The thing is, both of those Smith’s have classes, and I can’t afford to take a class. I don’t want to ask to take up their time for free. But I definitely can’t afford to pay 250-300 for a class. If I were to ask either of them they would probably refer me to their classes. See my dilemma?
  12. Ive been trying to find people around me, there are 2 people that I know of so far. one is http://www.boiseblacksmith.com/ and the other is http://www.durbinsforge.com/ I just don't know how to go about contacting them, I cant really email someone asking for them to help me forge a knife. I don't know how willing someone might be to help a teenager asking to have help forging. One of them lives within a few miles of me, but again I just don't know how to go about contacting them
  13. Afternoon folks, I’ve got a problem. I am not progressing in my skills as a blacksmith or bladesmith, I feel like my lack of knowledge about operating my tooling is holding me back. I just don’t really know what I’m doing anymore. I need a mentor, someone to help me a little bit with the the more advanced aspects of forging. This forum has helped me a huge amount and owe you all a big thanks. Do any of you know of a smith in the treasure valley Idaho area that May be willing to help me out a little bit? I feel like I’m just growing more bad habits with forging rather than actually working on my skills. If any of you know of someone who might be willing to help please share. Thanks all.
  14. I might wet the paper a little bit with windex, I don't know if that actually does anything though. How do I get the paper off the stone once its worn out if i use spray adhesive?
  15. Ill be buying some adhesive sandpaper soon, we are going to see if this works. Doe anyone know if there is any adhesive rhynowet sandpaper?
  16. The one thing is, I have to get sandpaper starting at like 600 grit, that may be too thick and make a convex edge this might be a little bi more challenging than I thought. Those micron papers are super high grit. I have 200 and a 600 grit stone, I’m thinking I would have to get 220-400, then use the 600 stone and then progress up the grits from 800-2000 and then micron paste and lapping film. And if I have way to much extra time I’ll try to get it up to that 60,000 grit that was mentioned... would my idea work? I think it will take a lot of trial and error, but it may be worth it for me.
  17. You have no idea how much you just helped me, thank you so much.
  18. I’m interested if you guys use belts to sharpen your blades or not, I can’t sharpen on stones for my life, so I use the wicked edge sharpening system, but the stones are expensive and I can’t afford the higher grits, so I was thinking maybe I can set the edge/secondary bevel or what ever you call it with my wicked edge and then progress up the grits with belts? Maybe a stupid question to follow, why do you start low grit with belts and go up, when you can just start at 1000 and take a little bit more time to do it? I can’t afford many belts, so if I could just buy a few 800-2000 belts to sharpen rather than 400-2000 belts. So the high grit belts wear out if you do that? Sorry I can’t explain anything very well, so if you can understand I’d love some feedback
  19. No more progress made on this one yet, I’ll get around to heat treating it..again... it next week. It’s my birthday tomorrow and tonight I’m preparing steaks for the grill, I’ve got some Dry aged ribeyes and my first ever Wagyu NY strip steak. Thats not exactly knife related but I’m sure the steak lovers on here will appreciate it
  20. Some weird stuff going on in this blade, I don’t know if I will be able to explain it. Before the last re heat treat, I didn’t not sand off the etched Hamon. Now it’s still showing up on the blade, what’s going on here?? I ground off one side of the Hamon, and re etched it, now the current Hamon shows up, but the old one also shows up on the areas of the blade where I didn’t grind very deep. In the pictures you can see the areas where the previous etched Hamon is showing up. On the areas that where ground down the most, the new Hamon is showing up and ye old one is gone. I don’t know what the heck is going on so could someone enlighten me into why this piece of steel is so stubborn?! I don’t think it will be a problem, I’ve just got to grind a little bit deeper into the blade.
  21. Heat treat take 3 is a success. I’ve been running the file along the entire edge constantly and I cannot detect any softness. If this Hamon touches the edge again I will most definitely whack it with a sledge hammer. And probably with great joy Let’s hope not though!!!
  22. I’ve been quenching it deep, but the Hamon only shows up close to the edge. I may not be heating the spine up enough.
  23. Well right now I’m about ready to snap this blade in half. File tested it one more time and etched it to see the Hamon, and the last half inch or so of the tip is dead soft. I don’t think I heated the tip up enough, I was moving the blade through a hot spot and must have not heated the tip up enough. At this point is it is it even worth it to re heat treat it again? Or am I just ruining the grain of the steel? EDIT this was gonna be one killer Hamon too.
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