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Sam Young

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Everything posted by Sam Young

  1. I did the same grinder from Dan over at DCKnives, his OSG build was a great design and as mentioned the files he posted are free(best kind). I’m still in progress of finishing up everything, motor,VFD , platen and mounting the wheels.
  2. The a actual jack is $90 with coupon from HF, tubing is going to vary. If you have a local scrap yard or a welding/sheet metal shop nearby you can check with them. Otherwise from a metal distributor it’s prob guna be $100 or so for a full length stick of it.
  3. I used 2” x 2” x 1/4” wall for mine
  4. Mine as of now just slides in, I feel a set screw of some kind would be best. If u did a pin, u have the potential that it may/can get bound some how and won’t be able to remove the pin.
  5. I’ve been following this topic for a couple weeks and I’m the final stages of mine. I need to get some Grade 8 bolts and make brackets to hold the dies in place and to be removable. Thanks to Thunder and everyone’s input and ideas!!
  6. Looking good man, can’t wait to see the final finished knife.
  7. Awesome Charles, thank you for that link!!!
  8. I will check into this soon, I took a metallurgy class in school/college it at the time I wasn’t into make blades as much. ( should have paid attention though) We went over the odd ball numbers and equations that didn’t make any sense then, but that class was a generic coarse of what metallurgy is and why it’s needed with metals, but didn’t get into the details of specific steels like 1095,1055,5160 15N20. thank you Justin
  9. Vern thank you, I will definitely use your advice as well as Justin and others with my next blade I make, I haven’t done a normalizing cycle on any knife that I recall, so hearing this is a good thing.
  10. No no your good man, this is what I wanted to kno. I took the advice from Vern to do this test to see how it would react and I’m actually glad that it broke, to me that means I can temper it like I did my knife. But the grain structure is what I’m curious about, a finer grain means it’s harder right? And large grain is not as hard ? This was just a test with this. There was no tempering just a quench in water and veggie oil. I was concerned that this was going to be an alloy steel such 4140, which was explained to me earlier in the post. Justin , thank you for the response and advice!!
  11. Ok guys, I finally took the time to do a heat treat test on this blade material. I heated up both scrap pcs and quenched one in vegetable oil and one in water. Both pieces broke in half. Take a look at the grain structure. Top pic is in vegetable oil second is in water Third is a side by side Let me kno what ya think
  12. Nice job man!! I like that blade a lot. What steel did you use for this? The forged finish really appeals to my eyes, along with the blade style itself, Great job
  13. Got this far last night...... still a little bit more to do. I did get a just about razor sharp edge with it, but will do some cutting and chopping tests to test the edge retention. This thing is hard though so I’m not sure if it’s a chromoly or not, I broke the tip of a cobalt drill bit.
  14. Hey everyone giving a quick update, after talking with Wayne Coe and discussing some problem areas and improvements I need to make, my forge will have to be put on the back burner for now, I need to get some more materials to finish off the project. Plistix, Kast o lite and other items, I will give an update when I get to the next stage. thanks for the help and input at this time!!
  15. Awesome. That’s definitely good to hear that he try’s his best to fit everything in one box WIP- got it. Thanks guys!!
  16. Thank ya thank ya. I think I might shoot him a email this weekend with some questions. I’m glad to hear that multiple members have used his products, and have had good results. When u say “fumed silica” what is this? I’ve seen ppl use the food color method on YouTube, but I can’t remember what the concoction was. And WIP?
  17. Awesome that’s good to hear!! Thank u for the reply
  18. Thank you, did you line your forge with his coating? How did it turn out?
  19. Here is a short vid of the “as of now” forge https://youtu.be/sA8Xlt0CS3k
  20. Hey everyone I started this a couple months ago and have been working with it on and off since then and coming to a close i started out with a 40lb propane tank, cut one end open with a cut off wheel, then plasma cut a square opening on each end of the tank. And cut out 2 round holes for the burners. next I made a frame from angle iron to hold 2 large hard fire bricks. Cut 2 pieces of tubing, drilled and tapped 4 1/4-20 holes to hold the burners in place. i have lined the inside with Kaowool and tacked welder screws to hold the wool in place as I formed it to the inside of the tank. i will be using high temp cement (2700 degree) to put over top of the wool. Understanding that there is quite a time for curing this will have to be a patient waiting game for me. I went this route because of the price difference from using a glaze and/or satanite. From reading other members posts, I will try the light bulb technique to help curing. Please give me some input on this, at the moment I still have time for changes or improvements, cementing will follow soon. thanks everyone
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