Ron Benson

There was a thread a while back that mentioned where you could send files to get them sharpened. If they are quality files, you might want to go that route.

This was in today's emails. It was part of an add for a knife sharpening service: What’s a Sexsmith? “Seax” is an old English word for knife. Other ways to spellit are sax, sæx, and sex. The word has found its way into places like “Essex, Sussex, and Middlsex.” A Sexsmith is what wecall a Knifesmith today.

I have wanted a disc sander for a while. I had one I made for the bowl lathe I built ~ 40 years ago, but I need to rebuild the lathe - storage in an unheated barn for 30+ years was not kind to it. Yesterday I remembered that I had my dear departed Dad's Makita planer blade sharpener. It's missing the water tank that keeps the stone wet, so I'm hesitant to use it with steel as I'm afraid the stone will glaze over. However, by removing the stone and replacing it with a 9" particle board disc, (two layers), I can add a 9" PSA sanding disc and use it for flattening. And I still have

That is just lovely - in a manly way.

I am basically in the same spot as you. What my mind sez now is that I should use a jig to get a good bevel and then try freehand. It's very hard for me to just go freehand. I wrote up my thoughts in a post here a short time ago. You may find it helpful - or not. And there is a link in that post to another that might also be helpful. https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/41447-a-newbys-thoughts-on-grinding-bevels/

You're never too old to learn something stupid. Thanx for the reminder @Garry Keown

As a newby to grinding flats, I thought it might help others if I posted my experiences here. Some who actually know what they are doing offered suggestions. At any rate, here's a link to the post. I hope it helps you: https://www.bladesmithsforum.com/index.php?/topic/41429-practicin-bevel-grinding/

Just lovely, (and I mean that in a manly way ).

Thanks. At that time I was heavy into wood turning and went around to various tree services looking for wood. The log the above piece came from was over 2' in diameter and a little over 8' long. It was covered in burls ranging from head sized to over 2' across. I still have a bunch including some large ones. The owner of the business was using it to line his road. I asked him how much he wanted for it and he said $25. When I said OK, he looked at me like I was crazy, but he took my money. I probably sold $400 - $500 worth of bowls, (in 1980 dollars), and only used a little more th

Looking through the wood I have I found a small maple burl and cut off a hunk. I like the grain oriented this way, but I have several that are big enough that I could cut blanks perpendicular to the one below so that a live edge integral "butt cap" could be made. I don't think I'm close to that yet, but it's fun to dream... I didn't measure, but it's big enough to get at least two blanks from lengthwise and it's a little over 4" wide.I've had it for ~ 40 years. It's basically straight off the bandsaw with a quick run over the jointer to help show the grain.

I took a one day stock removal class two years ago next month, but have not yet put it to full use. I am currently trying to learn how to grind flat bevels that end up where I want them to. Since what I have learned is still fresh in my mind I thought I would share some things I have learned hoping that this info will help other newbies. And since I am new, there is the distinct possibility that I may give info that is wrong, unsafe, or both. I'm hoping that experienced makers will correct any miss-information. There is some helpful info in this thread: https://www.bla

Thanks all for the comments. @Joshua States - I think I need to get some blocks cut and in the mail so that they can have some time to equalize when I get them. I may even cut some into scales just so they can move. I know that resawing wood , form 2" thick to two 1" thick pieces for example), needs to be done well before you are ready to take them to final dimensions to allow for the inevitable movement after resawing.

I have three companies booked, (K&G, River Ridge, and Wood Dynamics), but there are probably more. Who has a good reputation now?

Two years ago next month I took a one day class in making a stock removal knife. It was too short to have time to make and attach wood handles, so they offered paracord for handles. I said no thanks 'cause I had a ton of various woods from when my Dad and I did woodworking in the '80s and early '90s. In addition, I was finally getting my shop set up after my BIL moved out. I made the handle out of kiln dried bubinga that I have had for forty years. It was finished with Tru Oil. Yesterday I was looking at it and noticed I could feel the pins protruding from the wood. Not enough to s

Wow Chris - you da man. Super work.