Ron Benson

Even though I am not very active on this forum, my heart goes out to you @John N

Stupid me - I thought this was a bear claw... Nice work though.

Don't forget the Gov also said gun ranges are also non-essential...

I thought some might find this short article interesting: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/discover/newsletter/woodworking/2020/april/what-is-it-pa?utm_source=Newsletter---Woodworking&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=PMWoodNews-March-Woodworking-Newsletter

Don't be afraid to try somenthin' new. Remember - amateurs built the Ark and professionals built the Titanic...

Yes! That's the way to do it.

@Alex Middleton - you need to make your new best friend a knife using his wood, and do it quickly to get him excited...

Thanx Brian - I am here to learn, so I take your comments as a source of knowledge. I hope that doesn't make you feel pressured...

A quick test would be to run the motor after disconnecting from the VFD. If it runs as it should, that would back up the answers others have given about the VFD.

Stunning work!

Is this a boring post?

Have you ever used your gear to vacuum dry wood? I first heard about it in the mid/late '70s. It's supposed to dry with less checking and less wood movement. However, I never investigated further because at that time the equipment I saw was room size or larger, but it does seem that it might be a good way to dry handle sized hunks of wood.

I don't know how well the psa paper will peel off a sharpening stone as I am using it on glass. I do know that Best Sharpening Stones sells the micron paper, and even sells it cut to size for your sharpener. I don't think they would sell it if it didn't work, but you might contact them to ask.

You could always just buy a can of spray adhesive and use whatever paper you want. Just make sure it fits your requirements - are you going to wet sand?

Here is a looong answer to is 1000 grit enough, but knowing where I am coming from will help understand my answer. If ya don't wanna read all this, skip to the bottom for the short answer. My dad gave me my first pocket knife when I was six. It wasn't sharp, but he wanted me to carry it every day, (and I have carried one almost very day for over 66 years). As I got older, he taught me how to sharpen knives. Older still and I started hunting. When I started deer hunting with my Dad's hunt club, my Dad and I were the "official" knife sharpeners while others skinned and gutted deer. I always thought I was great at hand sharpening knives until several years ago when I stumbled across Japanese kitchen knives and joined a forum populated mostly by professional chefs that use knives daily in their jobs. What I learned was that what I considered sharp was just the starting point for them. (!!) For them, a sharp knife should be able to cut paper thin slices from a tomato without holding the tomato - just set it on the cutting board and slice parallel to the board. They normally go anywhere between 1000 and 12,000 grit depending on the person, the job, the knife steel and the blade geometry. I am currently sharpening kitchen knives to 1.5K grit, but woodworking tools go to 8k grit and I am just starting to experiment with 14K grit.