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Ron Benson

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Everything posted by Ron Benson

  1. I have a truck, but I still don't think it would work...
  2. Ya might want to try one more time Bryan. Just sayin'...
  3. I asked a few questions about making a letter opener in an earlier post, and someone asked me to post photos of the finished piece, so here they are along with a few photos of the build not posted earlier. In the first photo I drilled a hole large enough for the blade to pass through in a scrap piece of pine thinking I would glue up everything and then shape the handle, (# 2). I also made a jig for my router to route the corners off the square blank. It actually worked! I finally decided to glue up everything but the "bolster" using super glue on the dowel, (letting the SG set), and epoxy on the spacers. I let that cure overnight. I then carefully epoxied the "bolster" in place using the blade to makes sure it was oriented correctly. I pulled the blade out and there was no epoxy on it, (whew!). I then shaped and sanded the handle to 400 grit. Then the blade was glued in place. Finally I finished with teak oil sanding the wet surface with 600 grit. I do hope my son likes it.
  4. Wow! A wonderful tribute to your Dad Dave. I'm sure your Dad was looking down with a large smile on his face.
  5. I can't help, but your translator gives the most natural translations I have seen. Which one do you use?
  6. Every time someone makes a foolproof product, someone else makes a better fool...
  7. I was just rereading the posts and realized that I should have credited Joshua with the split dowel idea. Sorry Joshua... Here's my current plan: First, I have the following pieces - butt, body, three spacers, and the "bolster". The body has a hole drilled in it about 2/3 of it's length. The three spacers have holes drilled in them, and the "bolster" has a hole drilled about half way through with a through slot for the tang. I also have the dowel cut in half lengthwise, and the blade blank has the tang cut in it. (And it actually fits in the slot!) I need to sand the two pieces of the dowel to make a almost tight fit with the tang in place, shape the blade, and glue up the handle so I can finish it before gluing the blade in place. I'm going to use either a Watco oil finish, or Tru Oil. I know the Watco looks great on bubinga, but I'm not sure how the oil will affect ebony. On the other hand, I don't think the Tru Oil will have much affect on the Ebony. Any additional suggestions would be greatly suggested.
  8. I wish I could like it more than once.
  9. This sounds like it would also work.
  10. Great description Joël! I understand and your process overcomes my major concern - glue squeeze out.
  11. It's either some type of cloth or you need to see a doctor real bad...
  12. I started shootin' in the mid 60s. While on R&R in Hong Kong in '72, I picked up two Nikon F bodies and several lenses. I did a little macro when I got back home, but life got in the way and I didn't do much serious work until the Canon 20D came out in 2004. The first lens I bought was a Sigma 150 mm macro lens. Here's a shot taken in my vegetable garden a while back.
  13. Thanx Jöel and Joshua. Joshua - sorry I was not clear. My plan is to cut a slot in the dowel that will fit the tang. Then glue up the handle with the dowel in place and finish the handle. I will then insert the tang into the handle. Ideas keep popping into my mind as I read suggestions, so I am still considering all suggestions....
  14. Good work. The MP-E is not an easy lens to learn.
  15. As mentioned in another post, my son has requested a letter opener with a "fancy wood handle" for Christmas. I have decided to the handle from Macassar Ebony and Bubinga. The blade will be Bubinga. The pieces for the handle are cut and drilled for a 1/2" dowel insert. I have seen this process done on youtube, but with a metal blade which is often burned in. I don't think trying to burn in a wooden blade would work very well. So I'm looking for advice on how I can finish the handle and blade separately and then assemble. I am worried about excess glue squeezing into the slot for the blade and then having to remove it. There won't be much clamping space on the blade end, (if I insert the blade before gluing), of the handle because I plan on making a wa handle that tapers from butt to blade end. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  16. That's gonna be one big knife!
  17. Your wife looks a bit less than enthusiastic...
  18. You can buy them on Amazon...
  19. Thanx Alex. If I decide to go down that path, I will do a lot of research.
  20. Thanx All for the comments. I don't know if I will go in this direction, but it does look like makin' a forge is not as complicated as I thought. And with help from the people here, it might just be doable.
  21. ... for a total newbie? I had no plans for getting any type of heat treat equipment, but I ran across this video today. Simple to build and very cheap. But as a newbie, I'm concerned about controlling temps. But maybe there are some beginner friendly steels that might work for someone like me? I'm not talking about forging at this time - only heat treating. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ifTIuNt3aNY Thanx for looking. Edit to add that once you view a topic on you tube, they send you more videos on that subject, so I am now getting other similar videos - including coffee can forges. These just add to the confusion...
  22. Thanx! You have given me an idea. An African rosewood blade with an ebony handle. I'm thinkin' maybe adding a rosewood end cap and maybe two rosewood spacers separated by an ebony spacer. It will be an octagonal wa handle tapered from blade to end.
  23. I was talking to our son yesterday, (he's in TX and we are in VA), and he asked for me to make him a letter opener with a fancy wood handle as a Christmas present. That should be no problem because I have a ton, (maybe a half ton literally), of wood from when I was heavy into woodworking. The question is what steel? I assume that it should be stainless, and I am hoping that it won't need heat treatment, (since it won't have a sharp edge), because I have no heat source. Suggestions appreciated. I know I can buy a bare blade, but I don't want to do that unless I will have to heat treat.
  24. Remind me to say out of MI if 6 year olds are drivin'.
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