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H Seidel

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  1. I have heard it is still risky to water quench W1 even though it is supposed to be ok. Your thoughts?
  2. Awesome. Thanks for the info guys. I have never forged O1. How is it compared to 10 series?
  3. Ok thanks. I must have looked right over it. I'll look again.
  4. I have always used flat bar stock to forge out my blades. I have been wanting to try my hand at forging out integral bolstered knives but cant seem to find much for high carbon square pr round bar stock. Any tips on where to find it? Thanks.
  5. Ok thanks guys. I will give that a shot on the next piece i heat treat.
  6. Kitchen knives are my bread and butter. As I only do the ocational edc/hunter/camp etc. What do you think about trying a tube down the center of the forge to heat the knife in?
  7. -Usually 1095 or Damascus (1095 and 15n20) happens with both. -Usually about 7/64 thick, give or take. -full flat grind (kitchen knives) -single burner gas forge coming in from side angles back ( circular forge) -Normalizing for final heat treat -Warping occurs during norminlizing while heating up as well as cooling down outside of the forge I can watch the blade curve like a potato chip while inside the forge. This has only started happening the past couple months. I haven't changed anything I use or do. I just don't get it.
  8. So I have been making knives for over 4 years now but recently (as in the past 3 or 4 months) I have been having an issue with my steel warping. Oddly, it's warping inside the forge, not in the quench. I am not doing or using anything different now compared to before. I will put the blade into the forge to normalize and every time, it warps right in front of my eyes. I pull it out, hammer straight, and put it back in. Only for it to warp again. I have never had this issue before. Anyone know what is going on?
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