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JohnCenter

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Canada
  • Interests
    Scandi Grinds
  1. JohnCenter

    Glue starved and handle scales and liners

    Glad my question wasn't as OCD as I'd imagined! Also, Ive gained some great tips in the process.
  2. JohnCenter

    Glue starved and handle scales and liners

    Me too. That's what I do. But I've read Stacy on BF saying he cuts out the inside of his scales and Nick Wheeler has a few tutorials where he drills shallow dimples into the scales to give room for the glue. Got me thinking- how does that work with liners? Liners to scale is just glued (and starved), but then after drill shallow through both, glue to tang... and problem solved? I don't know. Probably over thinking, but wanted to throw the question out there.
  3. JohnCenter

    I am VERY VERY pleased with this!!

    Congratulations! You're living the dream now!
  4. I may be over thinking this, but I was reading about how a Maker should inlet or dimple the centers of the handle scales on full tang knives to create room for epoxy. This way it is not a glue starved between the tang and scale. But what about when using liners? Do you inlet/dimple scales, affix liner, then re-dimple/inlet again after liner has cured to scale? what is the process?
  5. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    Thanks. Yes, you are clear.
  6. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    Really appreciate the followup everyone. I'm really leanring a lot. Luckily, where I'm at now is not so despaired as before. Out of the four blades, one of the sabre ground's edges was between 0.020-0.030". The 0.030" was mostly up at the tip, so this made for a small surface area to grind down. So I threw the 0.40" edged one in a dark corner and started over. Went down from 100 grit paper to 80 and this thinner blade evened out pretty good. By the time i polished it back up to 220 i was averaging 0.20" along the edge. I didn't take very long or much effort. Nothing compared to trying to break down a solid 0.020" on the other one! Then my Lansky with course diamond put a 25 inclusive on it while i watched tv. and now the blade shaves! I made a knife. I'lm quite happy right now! i think a combination of a thinner more consistent bevel and starting at 80 grit vs 100 made a big difference in work. I had already send out a second batch to be heat treated (I'm enthusiastic, to say the least) and am now thanking the gods that i took the time to put clean 220grit bevels on them with a final edge consistently at 0.020" thick. My hand filing had already improved a lot by the time i was working on these versus my first batch. Thank you everyone for clearing so much up. At least for now 0.020" is doable, seems to survive heat treat so far, and allows me to finish up the knife with paper relatively easily. So do these stats make a decent little bushcraft knife? Or should I try to aim for a thinner primary bevel and a smaller inclusive secondary bevel? Please share your opinions. Or is it also personal and experiential? Funny, I measured the edge of a ESEE Izula I have and the primary bevel (flat gound) was roughly 0.030" and the secondary edge looked to be about 25 degrees inclusive. i was surprised to say the least.
  7. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    Actually one more question- Since I'm going to pick up the exra course stone, hwo deep of scratches is it going to leave? Will I be able to continue with sandpaper after? Or do I need another grit of stone before I can move to paper?
  8. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    60RC. They came back at 59RC. Alan, sonin line with your advice, would it be wise to purchase a DMT Extra course (4" or 6") stone? I'm thinking I could hook it up to my file jig and to start regrinding the bevel thinner. And, last question, my next batch should go out at 0.020" or even 0.015", right? Then I can polish them and simply grind on the primary bevel with my Lanky kit... right? Avoid my current nightmare repeating! I apologize if this is getting repetitive. But I want to be clear on how to move forward and not repeat the same mistakes. Hand filing is my only option for now and I want to continue making knives.
  9. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    So what is the rule of thumb for people hand grinding? when I asked a while back about files vs cheap grinders: I was told not to waste my money and time and learn to accept abrasives. I've no problem with hand tools, except now they simply don't work and I have metal to remove. I feel misled. And confused...?!
  10. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    I've definitly learned that lesson! Wow. But I'm also so very confused.... I always read: grind only to 'dime thickness' to avoid warping and cracking when quenching. But dime thickness is about 0.040" which is way to thick for me to finish once hardened. So what should I actually be doing? Grinding to 0.015-0.020" before heat treat? Or is that too thin?
  11. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    What a nightmare! Finally recived my first batch of knives back from the heat-treater. Being my first batch, I experimented a bit. Also, it goes without saying, my consistency is not that great yet. Of the four knives I sent, all are 3.50" blades 1/8" thick and 1" wide: 2 are Scandi grinds with one having an edge thickness of 0.010"- 0.15" the other, at 0.020-0.25". I'm pretty happy at how consistent the edge turned out ( as in not too wavy.). 2 are sabre grinds going back 0.75" of the blade. One of the edge's measures between 0.020" to 0.30" thick. The tip and near plunge being thicker and the middle and belly being thinner. Not too bad... The last is a nightmare at a thickness of 0.040" almost the whole edge. A nightmare because trying to thin out that edge with sandpaper is going to cost me my shoulder and wrist cartilage... Seriosuly. No exaggeration. So if the key is to get this bevel's edge down to at least 0.020" (or even 0.015" as advised above) before putting on the primary bevel with my Lansky kit... how do I do it? I've been going at it with 100 grit sandpaper and making very little progress considering the effort and time I've put in.
  12. JohnCenter

    Can hardened O1 be peened?

    Glad I asked. Will go back to the drawing board on this idea!
  13. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    Very good. Thank you.
  14. JohnCenter

    How to- First Sharpening After Heat Treat

    Thank you for the post Steven. I don't have a grinder (maybe I should stop saying, 'grinding'!) I am using only files, but I definitely gleaned some good information from your post. I basically have been doing what you said. Filing a wide angle to my center lines, then pushing the shoulder back to get the angle I want (for scandi) or the depth (for sabre). It has been going well and quite accurate. I have not yet had to 'chase' shoulders from side to side. Brian, forgive me your leaving out such important information! Of course the type of knife I am making would dictate the thickness... This knife is a 4" long Bushcraft type knife. 1/8" thick. 1" wide. So, would your advice still be to have it filed down to 0.015" before putting on the secondary bevel/sharpening?
  15. JohnCenter

    Can hardened O1 be peened?

    Okay. Kind of as I feared I guess. I plan on calling monday and speaking with them, but wanted more insight before I did.
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