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JohnCenter

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    Scandi Grinds

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  1. I am happy I asked the question! The replies are overwhelming and informative.
  2. 15n20 would work? What about 80CRV2? Would it fall in the same category as the 10XX steels in ease of annealing? I tried the torch on a scraped blade of O1 and had some success. It peened over with patience, but the edges of the mushroom cracked. I'm going to grind it off and try again and see if I get the same results. Up my game? Are there other advantages to brazing soft metal onto the tang then easy peening? What would they be? Isn't it a weaker link in the handle?
  3. Another beginner question brought up by my other thread. I am curious what is the general consensus on the use and limits of handles being glued on? No pins or any other mechanical bonding. I have seen the method used for small hidden tang knives but also to my surprise big choppers (leukus and seaxs). As a beginner what do I need to know to make sure I use this method correctly so that knives do not fail in use?
  4. Thank you everyone for the followup advice. Alan, I will try your method and report back. Joshua- I'll just be blunt and ask politely from those who know more than me- Can you please explain how a beginner using stock removal method and sending out for heat treat should go about producing a blade that can be peened?
  5. It has been a long time since I posted, but I've continued to dabble in knifemaking with some success. But only 3 piece sandwich style knives. I hope no one minds me bumping my own thread, but I still have an interest in trying a Nordic style knife and wanted to revisit this topic. What I understand from looking back is that O1 is not eaisly annealed once hardened but I may be able to anneal the end of the tang enough to peen? (Gerhard had no success) Brazing is not an option for me at the moment, but I would like to try Alan's advice on the tang of a scraped knife. It is O1 hardened to 59-60. So are these the correct steps: I protect majority of knife and use a common propane torch to heat the last 1/2" or so to red and let air cool. Do I repeat the heating and cooling, or is once enough? After that I tap lightly with hammer for a long time? It's this simple? Am I being to optimistic in my revisiting this thread? Am I wasting my time?
  6. Thank you. I would never have guessed that was mustard finish.
  7. Any general guidelines or advice for skeletoning a full tang knife so lightening is achieved without compromising strength? Such as leaving minimum amount of metal between holes or along the edges (ex. ~1/4")?
  8. Very informative. I know there is a list on Bladeforums of woods that can be used unstabilized, but it is long and somewhat confusing and I found it does not really answer the question very clearly. This thread has really given me a much better understanding. So typical woods I have seen used unstabilized that are not magical (eg. ironwood): Birch, hickory, and maple,. Any others?
  9. Thank you for the responses. Both your concerns are exactly mine. I already had doubts. I guess I will go with the more logical approach of drilling blind holes for the stop pin to achieve the same affect, but with the expected strength.
  10. Wasn't sure what to call this thread.... Basically, I am thinking of making a few 'puukko and/or maasepan' inspired knives. In doing some research it seems the majority of knives made across the sea use unstablized birch (please correct me if I am wrong). The maasepan knives use a block of wood with blade nailed in, while others use the block between various other materials with peened tang. Even Enzo's are sold with unstabilized birch scales. This leads me to believe that unstabilized wood is not as 'bad' and 'shifty' as North American culture would have one believe. It seems that in NA knife culture I often read statements like 'must use stabilized wood' because 'why would you give your customer any less?!' Also, the over seas makers make knives for use in varying climates and I presume if there were real world issues (such as cracking, shifting, expanding, shrinking, etc.) they would stop using unstablized wood.... yet over here the verdict appears to be different...? Please help me to better understand what appears to be conflicting information on the suitability of wood for handles...
  11. That file looks about right. I paid twice the price... but that's Canada for you!
  12. I stated with a 10" course bastard from the hardware store (Nicholson). It worked, but took a long time. I then upgraded to a 14" course bastard I ordered off Amazon. Also a Nicholson. Not only is it longer, but also a a lot wider. It easily removes twice as much as the 10" per stroke. Tempting to go longer, but with the size of the jig I made, I would not. I think 14" is a as long as I can get and still be able to get a good full stroke. So keep in mind the size of your jig as you look at longer files. Also, Nicholson receive a lot of critism on the net. I have not had issues. They are significantly cheaper than the other file brands and mine all remove metal. I'm not saying the people with more experience and better files are wrong- I'm just saying as a beginner they are adequate. Especially until you decide if you want to stick with the hobby.
  13. For those with more experience: Can a 1/8" micarta rod perform as the stop pin for a small friction folder (1/8" blade with 1/8" micarta handle slabs)? Will it stand up to the 'wear and tear'?
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