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JohnCenter

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Everything posted by JohnCenter

  1. Thank you for the post Steven. I don't have a grinder (maybe I should stop saying, 'grinding'!) I am using only files, but I definitely gleaned some good information from your post. I basically have been doing what you said. Filing a wide angle to my center lines, then pushing the shoulder back to get the angle I want (for scandi) or the depth (for sabre). It has been going well and quite accurate. I have not yet had to 'chase' shoulders from side to side. Brian, forgive me your leaving out such important information! Of course the type of knife I am making would dictate the thickness... This knife is a 4" long Bushcraft type knife. 1/8" thick. 1" wide. So, would your advice still be to have it filed down to 0.015" before putting on the secondary bevel/sharpening?
  2. Okay. Kind of as I feared I guess. I plan on calling monday and speaking with them, but wanted more insight before I did.
  3. Re-reading everything, and with respect to the posts above, is their an actual thickness I should have the primary bevel at before grinding the secondary on it? I referenced 'dime thickness' before, but in reflection I'd rather have a number. 0.030"? 0.025"? When I measure a dime, it comes out at 0.044". A bit thick I think.
  4. I want to try and make a puukko using O1 and a stick tang design similar to the Polar's and Laurie's that are sold by Brisa. I have my steel heat treated by a local professional (digital oven, etc.). As a beginner, I assume this means the stick tang as well as the blade will be hardened when done (59-60 Rc.). I don't know a lot about this kind of thing, but I remember reading that most puukkos are hand made so the tang is often left softer than the actual blade. If that is the case, will I be able to peen the hardened O1? Or do I have to request the heat-treater do something specific?
  5. Thank you Alan. You are always very helpful. Since it is harder than wood, will it dull my blades noticeably faster? Wood saw blades are easily replaced, router bits a bit more difficult.
  6. I have a slab of canvas micarta on the way. I have never worked with it before. What are the reccomended tools? Can I safely use my wood rasps and wood cutting blades (ie. table saw and router)? Or should it be treated as 'metal'?
  7. Experimented the other night. I used a piece of annealed and a piece of tempered carbon steel. Used nail polish as a resist and just quickly scratched some letters with a safety pin. Cut the end of a laptop power supply cord and hooked up the wires with alligator clips. Worked quite well. Definitely going to refine the setup and buy some stickers. One note worth sharing is make sure you have your positive and negative correct. Only works one way!
  8. When working with canvas, linen. or paper micarta scales, what are the basic precautions I need to take? I am having difficulty figuring out a basic standard on the internet. Currently I use a 3m half mask with a P100 2091 filter. I also wear wrap around safety goggles, but they are not sealed.
  9. I was also under the impression BLO needed more than a 'soak' to work, but at this stage in the knife-making game I'm willing to be open minded. I did not know it was not water proof. So far I've have kept things really simple. I've just been wiping thin layers of Tung Oil onto my wood handles. I've been happy with the results. It dries hard and clear and I haven't had any moisture issues yet. I originally went with Tung Oil because I found it locally in a pure form. This made it a generally safer oil to use than BLO, which is filled with chemicals.
  10. I am curious to try this, but have no electrical experience or understanding! Can someone please explain what the the dangers of electrical shock are. Also, what to do or not to do to avoid being shocked? @Jason McEntee- Your mark came out really well! Two questions: - Was that with the salt water mixture as the tutorial described? Or did you use another solution? - You wrote, "I found that a simple 12 volt / 2 amp power supply was more than adequate." Could you post a link to the product so I can have a better idea of what I need to buy or lend? I'm not sure what that box with the red and black wires coming out of it is.
  11. I've been meaning to ask about a post I ran across (lost now. I think it was Instagram...) where a knifemaker mentioned he left his wood handled knives soaking for a week in a mason jar filled with a mix of Boiled Linseed Oil and Turpentine. Removed it, let it dry, and sanded smooth. Anyone have any thoughts on this process?
  12. I do. Just trying to better understand. Thank you.
  13. Right, but I would imagine any discrepancies (within reason) on the dime edge for a scandi can be ground out as you work the bevels down. With the saber, if the dime thick secondary bevel is being used 'as is' for the primary, then anything other than a consistent thickness down the edge will lead to an equally inconsistent primary bevel. I am just guessing as I've yet to reach and experience this stage in my journey.
  14. Thank you. That makes it straightforward. But now I have to be more careful about actually grinding a dime's thickness since it will be the foundation for my secondary bevel. With a scandi there is, dare I say it, more room for error since in the end the edge will be ground to zero...
  15. This is something my search skills have not been able to find a clear 'A-B-C' answer too. I have some blanks going out for heat treat (stock removal, O1). I am not clear on the steps to get a sharp edge for a scandi or a sabre grind after I get the knives back. I only have hand tools. I left the edge approximately the thickness of a dime as per the recommendation of the heat treater. My understanding so far: 1) Soak in vinegar for 24 hours to help remove gunk from heat treat. 2) Finish cleaning with high grit sand paper 3) For Scandi edges: Wrap sandpaper around a file and go back to my filing jig. 4) I figure Scandi's are easy- Sand the edge from dime thickness to zero hopefully ending up around 20-24 degrees inclusive. Right? But, for a sabre ground, what do I do? Follow steps 1 & 2, but leave the 'dime thickness' and grind the secondary bevel (approximately 20-25 degress inclusive angle) directly on to it? Or does the edge still need to be reduced first? How much?
  16. Thank you for the response. If I understand correctly only friction folders don't need liners. Anything with a lock benefits from the liners because of the force of the lock... not so much forces being put on the blade. Am I understanding this right?
  17. I was curious- When building a simple folder with a wood handle/slabs- when are liners necessary? Always? The only folders I can think of that do not have liners are the Opinels. But they do have a metal ring around the pivot area that on some models provides a lock, but otherwise strengthens the key area. Can a folder be safely made with only wood? Are there any important design considerations to be made when choosing not to use liners? Pivot pin selections, washers, etc? A metal ring?
  18. I'm not sure what to say. A wealth of information shared and I definitely have a better understanding. Now for practical application! I guess you are right Joshua. It isn't really about tang design, but about getting a correct fit regardless of design. An example of looking at something from the wrong angle on my part. I'm familiar with the Nordiskaknivar blog. Lately it is permanently open in my browser. It is also the reason for many frustrations. The knives posted are incredibly fine made. More like jewelry than tools! Aiden, for your reference to wood: Do you go for a perfect fit? Or use some type of filer for gaps? Glue mixed with saw dust? Or you mentioned soft wood? Isn't that visible? Do you peen or is it an all glue hold (like Roselli's)?
  19. Thanks for that tip! Will try it out.
  20. I've a handle for a puukko blade with a brass bolster followed by a chunk of maple. In trying to sand down and finish the bolster I'm finding the grit(?) is staining my maple black. Then when I try to clean up the maple I have to use a higher grit, which scratches up the brass. What am I doing wrong? Should I be using different sand paper? I've tried finishing the bronze, than taping it over and sanding out the stain on the maple, but with mixed results. Often the tape gets scuffed, then the brass. Plus I worry about sanding the wood down more than the brass. I'm using wet/dry black sandpaper for the brass. 400, 600, 800, 1200. Only using it dry when trying to finish handles. I can get red sandpaper in my area, but only up to 220. The red does not seem to stain the maple.
  21. Good point on the 4 bevels (Rhomboid?). That would be another step in difficulty. Who are the puukko experts? Maybe I can message them. Is there a forum more dedicated to puukkos?
  22. I should have been more specific. I meant for cutting out tang shapes and other small intricate precise work where hacksaw is simply to big.
  23. Anyone know? I'm looking for some more tools to help me shape bolsters. All the jewelry sites speak in 'gauge.' I buy 5mm and sometimes 10mm thick brass bar stock for use in cutting my own bolsters. If yes, what type of blade are you using/recommend?
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