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Everything posted by JohnCenter

  1. I've been comparing different puukko stink tang designs. For example a typical Lauri: http://brisa.fi/knife-blades/lauri-pt/lauri-pt-77.html versus a typical Polar: http://brisa.fi/knife-blades/polar/polar-77.html On a completed knife using the Lauri design the bevel will go all the way to the handle/bolster (no ricasso) and the plunge line is hidden inside the handle. While, on a completed knife with the Polar design there is a ricasso. I am assuming theses design choices are aesthetic (correct me if I am wrong). However, for making a knife they create differences. The Lau
  2. Follow up question: Does this also apply for sanding brass and nickel silver when shaping handles? I'm thinking no because I've never seen sparks come off the materials like when grinding down peened tangs. But I'd rather know for certain, then wake up one morning and not have a shed.
  3. Once the blade has been hardened and I have to finish it up and sharpen, would the 1x42 then be ideal? Otherwise, my option is lots of sandpaper? Diamond stone? I see many people mentioning this stage being particularly frustrating with hand tools. (The 1x42 also just became a lot cheaper as I've found a 1/3HP 1700rpm motor. From a drill press a friend was tossing. I believe this is a fine motor for the grinder...?)
  4. Would the addition of a thermocoupler make a difference when using a simple forge type design? This way a better approximation of correct temperatures can be had.
  5. So as I mentioned in another post, I can buy O1 locally at a decent price (50% cheaper than my 10XX options!). I thought this was a great find until I read the comments warning me against using it due to the difficulty heat treating it. But... I've also watched and read numerous articles on how it is a great steel for beginners and can be easily heat treated. Here are two links I believe to be respectable examples of that opinion: "Gough Custom" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bunCG6W6dA) and this "Popular Woodworking" Article Summary (https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/ed
  6. Other option would be D2. So I think O1 is the better bet, of course I'm open to advice. I mean- once I have a bunch of steel on hand I'm certian I'll try heat treating some myself.
  7. One of the reason I was selected O1 was because I found a place in my area that sells it fairly cheap compared to ordering other steels and paying the big shipping costs. I was considering sending my first knife or two out for heat treatment, before tackling that next area of knifemaking
  8. Good to know about the water trap. Thank you. I have a shop vac. Will look into eye pro. Picked up some small magnets to put around the hand file jig. Hopefully they will help collect the metal shaving. Anything else I should be on the look out for?
  9. @Mason- Hard to find 2x42’s in Canada. @Wes (& Dave) - No worries. I understand what you are saying. I’m sure I’m not the first beginner to barge in here full of enthusiasm looking to make a knife right now. I am quite patient. I’m the type of guy that reaches for a screwdriver before the cordless drill. Use the right tool for the job, no more, no less. So maybe I should have used the word, ‘efficient’ or ‘pragmatic’ versus ‘quick.’ @Alan- Thank you for the detailed description of your filing process. I may have overlooked something somewhere, but this is the first
  10. Up to this point I have been having fun making handles for blades (Lauri and the like). I've been using various woods, bark, brass, vulcanized fiber, etc. I bought a 3M 6000 Series Half-mask and use it with P100 filters when sanding and filing these materials. Now I'm thinking of taking the next step and making some blades. This will add metal dust to my environment. I work in a small shop that does not have the best ventilation (no cross breeze). I have recently acquired a dust collector I will be able to hook up to a grinder (if I buy one). What else would I need? I presume the P100's
  11. I'm preparing to try and make my first blade. I've been doing a lot of research, but one thing continues to elude me: What is quicker for grinding the bevels? Hand filing jig ( like the 'Gough' or similar) or a 1x42 grinder? It seems whenever I find something on the Internet where a beginner asks about a 1x30 or 1x42 for stock removal it is always answered with, "You gotta buy a 2x72 or nothing!" That's a lot of money for a person just trying something for the first time. I can make a hand file jig easily, but a 1x42 ( http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43072&am
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