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Posts posted by JohnCenter

  1. I've a handle for a puukko blade with a brass bolster followed by a chunk of maple. In trying to sand down and finish the bolster I'm finding the grit(?) is staining my maple black. Then when I try to clean up the maple I have to use a higher grit, which scratches up the brass. What am I doing wrong? Should I be using different sand paper?

    I've tried finishing the bronze, than taping it over and sanding out the stain on the maple, but with mixed results. Often the tape gets scuffed, then the brass. Plus I worry about sanding the wood down more than the brass.

    I'm using wet/dry black sandpaper for the brass. 400, 600, 800, 1200. Only using it dry when trying to finish handles.

    I can get red sandpaper in my area, but only up to 220. The red does not seem to stain the maple.

  2. I've been comparing different puukko stink tang designs. For example a typical Lauri:


    versus a typical Polar:


    On a completed knife using the Lauri design the bevel will go all the way to the handle/bolster (no ricasso) and the plunge line is hidden inside the handle. While, on a completed knife with the Polar design there is a ricasso. I am assuming theses design choices are aesthetic (correct me if I am wrong). However, for making a knife they create differences. The Lauri style makes fitting a tight bolster much more difficult than the simple rectangular shape of the Polar.

    So, if I wanted a design where there was no ricasso, but the easier rectangular tang, could I not simply make the plunge line end exactly at the bolster? Would this work? Or is there some strength/ general knife building rule I am ignoring?


    On 4/1/2018 at 11:28 PM, Wes Detrick said:

     If you are going to be using dust collection for metal grinder, make sure you have a water trap, or you might just find out the hard way what incendiary metal particles will do to a filtration system.

    Follow up question: Does this also apply for sanding brass and nickel silver when shaping handles? I'm thinking no because I've never seen sparks come off the materials like when grinding down peened tangs. But I'd rather know for certain, then wake up one morning and not have a shed.

  4. Once the blade has been hardened and I have to finish it up and sharpen, would the 1x42 then be ideal? Otherwise, my option is lots of sandpaper? Diamond stone?

    I see many people mentioning this stage being particularly frustrating with hand tools.


    (The 1x42 also just became a lot cheaper as I've found a 1/3HP 1700rpm motor. From a drill press a friend was tossing. I believe this is a fine motor for the grinder...?)

  5. So as I mentioned in another post, I can buy O1 locally at a decent price (50% cheaper than my 10XX options!). I thought this was a great find until I read the comments warning me against using it due to the difficulty heat treating it. But... I've also watched and read numerous articles on how it is a great steel for beginners and can be easily heat treated. Here are two links I believe to be  respectable examples of that opinion: "Gough Custom" (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8bunCG6W6dA) and this "Popular Woodworking" Article Summary (https://www.popularwoodworking.com/woodworking-blogs/editors-blog/heat-treating-o1-steel) I have found cited way too often.

    Yet on many of the knifemaking forums (like here), it is often touted that O1's heat treatment ease is a misconception. Therefore, I ask two questions to hopefully better understand O1 and it's reputation:

    (1) Why does O1 have this contrary reputation?

    (2a) Can it be adequately heat treated using simple means/ forges?

    (2b) If yes, which of the many 'simple' forges (two brick, coffee can, etc.) is the more reliable option?

  6. @Mason- Hard to find 2x42’s in Canada.


    @Wes (& Dave) - No worries. I understand what you are saying. I’m sure I’m not the first beginner to barge in here full of enthusiasm looking to make a knife right now. I am quite patient. I’m the type of guy that reaches for a screwdriver before the cordless drill. Use the right tool for the job, no more, no less. So maybe I should have used the word, ‘efficient’ or ‘pragmatic’ versus ‘quick.’


    @Alan- Thank you for the detailed description of your filing process. I may have overlooked something somewhere, but this is the first time I’ve seen a list of the different files ranked for a hand grinding specific process. I will look at the link.


    @Everyone else that contributed: Thank you for the responses, I actually have a clearer understanding about why the jig is recommended now. I can see the wisdom in the slower method allowing fewer frustrating mistakes and lost steel, as well as teaching angles and grinds.


    Although, I’m posting late, I followed this thread throughout the day. I was also at the hardware store today on other business (… always something…) and quickly eyed and calculated a few of the required materials for the jig. In the end I bought everything. Only cost me about $25. I had plywood and a bastard file already, which would be the more expensive items. Can’t really complain at that price. Going to go buy some O1 later this week.

  7. Up to  this point I have been having fun making handles for blades (Lauri and the like). I've been using various woods, bark, brass, vulcanized fiber, etc.  I bought a 3M 6000 Series Half-mask and use it with P100 filters when sanding and filing these materials. Now I'm thinking of taking the next step and making some blades. This will add metal dust to my environment. I work in a small shop that does not have the best ventilation (no cross breeze). I have recently acquired a dust collector I will be able to hook up to a grinder (if I buy one). What else would I need?

    I presume the P100's will still be adequate for respiratory protection when grinding metal?

    What about eye protection? I wear glasses, but am thinking I may want some type of 'sealed' protection due to the metal...? What is the standard?

    Anything else I should be purchasing?

  8. I'm preparing to try and make my first blade. I've been doing a lot of research, but one thing continues to elude me:

    What is quicker for grinding the bevels? Hand filing jig ( like the 'Gough' or similar) or a 1x42 grinder?


    It seems whenever I find something on the Internet where a beginner asks about a 1x30 or 1x42 for stock removal it is always answered with,  "You gotta buy a 2x72 or nothing!" That's a lot of money for a person just trying something for the first time. I can make a hand file jig easily, but a 1x42 ( http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?cat=1,43072&p=44884 ) is also within my budget. I was hoping the members here could give me a definitive answer on if a 1x42 would save me time versus a hand file jig?

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