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Everything posted by AndrewB

  1. No was talking about into scales not the block itself I was watching a video on bolsters earlier today eventually I’ll give that a try out. What was aiming for was to have a better fit for the tang in the scale halves rather than carving the space out
  2. I'll have to make a blade one of these days and attempt to break it in half after I do a quench just to see what the grain structure looks like.
  3. This might be a better place to ask but would it be easier to use the tang at a full heat and burn out the grooves for the tang instead of chipping them out with a dremel does that work well at all or would that just epically go wrong for me?
  4. Okay I admit I think I screwed up the handle LOL OPPS. I was experimenting with some stuff with the wood. and welp I didn't realize I didn't have a lot of space between the tang and edge of the wood. I was trying to do a finger rest in the handle. I failed epically. I mean it's still turned out nice with that one minor discrepancy. Gah what a NOOB move. I was also trying to see how far down I could sand the scales down while still having room to play with it getting it into the higher grits.
  5. I mean even though it’s not straight I’m surprised at how sharp the blade edge is. Even though I’ve yet put it to a sharpening stone. The full flat grind thats basically going all the way up to the spine instead of halfway right? I'm almost wondering if it would be easier to burn the tang shape into the scales rather than carving it out with a dremmel is that the best way to do that? Of course that would be before hardening.
  6. I am totally satisfied with this blade. Its already sharp but not sharp enough I only took it up to 400 grit belt I guess I need to get some new 600 grit belts already I should probably get some 1000 grit and 1200 grit for wood finish but yea I could only take it up to 400 so no mirror polish. I don't really care about the marks on the tang since its going to be hidden. But the rest of the blade yea I can live with that lol. Especially since it was technically my first successful saber grind. I've just gotta work on getting even bevels more. Now to figure out how I'm going to do the handle lol UGH. NO clue. On a side note looks like I wont be using wood blocks for handles lol I've blown out my electric drill no biggy. Scales I understand and are fairly easy for me to do. I can still technically do hidden tangs with scales right lol?
  7. Another successful normalization cycle and quenching cycle. I love it when things go the way I want. Checked the blade for warps there weren't any issues that I had seen it's now in the oven tempering. I dunno why but quenching and tempering have just been to be so easy for me it's not even funny. I dunno why so many others have issues with it. But I'm just glad it hardened successfully. I also tried out something new for a quench tank. I took a bit of square tubing that I had left over and turned it into a dunk tank. I think I like that option better than the one I've been using so I think payday I'm going to pick up 4 inch square tube and some flat sheet steel and make a quench tank for it. I like that way better. Plus I found you use less oil that way as well.
  8. I plan on cleaning this blade up doing a bit of draw filing on it this morning hopefully I'll be able to get it heat treated and tempered this afternoon. Hopefully since the weather has been behaving lately.
  9. Not sure exactly how to do a full grind I'll have to find some videos on that.I also gotta figure out how I'm going to glue and clamp the handle because I'm going to use a block this time and do the actual hidden tang correctly LOL. But I still want to do pins. I also found a little bit of a bend in the tang while sanding today that I've got to heat back up in the forge and straighten before I go into the heat treat and quench. But what I'm trying to figure out is do I just drill out the hole for the tang to slide into the block and fit the block then drill out the holes all the way through the tang and other side of the block? That I'm unsure of not only that I'm also trying to figure out how I would clamp it down lol. Its not like using the scales where I could just easily clamp the two sides together.
  10. I dunno its not the worlds best looking plunge lines but for a first actual time of trying to do t his right I can't complain. On the other side I can complain about how I'm not getting enough pressure on my blade. I took it up to 320 grit on the belts I think that's where I'll leave it until after the heat treat. I'm not a huge fan of the mirror polish unless its on a handle how ever that will do I think. At least there isn't a Noob grind on the bevels LMFAO.
  11. Back out on the grinder this morning trying to get out all the forging hammer marks in the steel on the 36 grit belt before I move on to the next belt I'm also trying to even up the plunge lines and bevels but for some reason I can never get the right amount of pressure I need to straighten everything out lol. I also got to straighten out the right side plunge line since it seems to want to veer forwards i"m not sure why exactly its doing that. Any ideas on this? I am trying to do this knife all free hand as well no guides nothing. This is more of an experimental learning trial to see if I can do it.
  12. I still haven't even used my file guide yet lol I probably should with this one.
  13. NO MORE NOOB GRINDS FOR THIS GUY OOOFFF. The tang I think came out okay, yea I still got a lot more grinding to go but yep NO more noob grinds as I said lol. I'm actually putting in the plunge lines.
  14. Yea that's actually what I was thinking about last night lol. Gonna get the forge out again today and straighten out the blade. I also discovered a little warp at the end of the blade so it wasn't perfectly straight going to fix that as well. So just one hit directly on the blade edge will fix that?
  15. I tried knocking it back to straight it just didn't want to cooperate. Its not that the entire blade is wavy its just the blade edge that buldges out a bit right before the ricasso. Thats mainly what I was trying to work out is attempting a forged ricasso on that one. So the blade edge at one point actually was further out towards the tang than at the tip. But that's fixable with the grinder.
  16. that is very true lol. I was just glad I didn't burn off the tang.
  17. I'm out of coal I can use to just forge until next month at least. But I went out there with an idea in my head. It's not perfect perfect heck even the blade edge isn't perfect but I plan on grinding that wavy junk out with the belt sander. How ever with the hidden tang I am quite happy with the way that turned out. Its the first one I've been able to make with out the steel getting too hot and melting down into the forge right in front of me. I did normalize it before I pulled it out of the fire. I didn't want you guys to think I was giving up on knives its just frustrating at times to get what I want and how I want it to look. Its just a bit of the OCD that I have LOL. The tang actually extends about 5 inches or so further down I'll get a couple more shots of it later on after every things cooled off from normalizing. But at least I'm getting better at making these hidden tang things LOL.
  18. I do enjoy my video games lol. I can loose myself in an online world and I often do. But when the weather is nicer I get more forging time in. I do all of that stuff outside when it's nice. When the weather is just garbage here raining or too windy I'm stuck inside and yep geeking out in PC games. How ever if summer is nice and holds out like it did last year I'll be forging on hopefully a daily basis. I dunno if I just under estimate myself with it or just get frustrated with it. But I have a few ideas in my head and when I go to put them into the steel they just never turn out the way I want them or I discover a warp in the blade after the heat treat and temper and the entire project is scraped. I guess you could say yes still the noob and still in the learning phases of this. In all honesty I do find heat treating how ever to be fairly simple. I understand how to do it. How the oil reacts in a certain way at the proper temperature to quench and what to look for in the forge when it's time to pull the steel out of the fire. Probably one of my favorite parts of forging is heat treating. Making oil boil instantly. Dunno what it is. LOL. Maybe its the former cook in me that likes seeing that part. There are also certain days where I cant do anything because my body tells me no you aint doin crap today. I guess I just gotta get better at it. But at least I'm also learning on the actual steel yea it's an expensive way to learn but for me its the best way. I was on the forge yesterday had a great tang shape and the thing melted off completely cause I over heated it opps. But I have a general idea of what I want to accomplish. But where I really want to get is making axes that is my number one goal. Knives everybody is making them.
  19. I does have a fairly flat surface. Its the one I bought from Ebay the 66 pound ebay anvil lol. The face is pretty smooth its just when I forge out the blades they are never straight for me I do use a wooden mallet to straighten out the blade after I forge the bevels out but even then it still seems to be crooked LOL. I dunno why but it just seems that axes would be a heck of a lot easier than knives. Especially since you can make them either with one hole piece of steel or use a piece and wrap it around and forge weld it to a working cutting head. That just seems a heck of a lot easier to me for some reason. (hope you guys got my potato reference LOL)
  20. Okay I've been having a bit of complications with getting the knife thing down. So I'm at a point where I'm a complete potato and just fully suck at it. Quenching hardening and tempering is no problem. Easy Easy Easy. But I can never get the shape I want of the blade or for it to even come out straight. So at this point I'm wondering if I should just say the heck with making knives and go right into making axes? Is that going to be a better way to start working with the hard ball on this one? It seems that axes are a heck of a lot easier than knives to make. For me its just a pain trying to get a straight blade lol. Ugh giving up on knives for a while Id like to try axes. Is this a good move or is it tougher?
  21. I'll have to double check that @Brian Dougherty. That does sound about right. I gouged out just enough of the material from the brick for the burner to sit in perfectly. I'm not sure how much that will change with the thermal cycling that brick will do. I will definitely be able to tell if it loosens up when I do the first test run of this forge.
  22. Okay only one door? I'll definately remember that one. I will use the door on the back end in case I have bigger pieces. I put a test piece one that I was playin with a test billet in the forge to judge the size of space and there is plenty of room in there for what I need. I was kind of surprised that the fire brick held the burner in place with out it falling out the back at all. I just gotta let everything cure before I do a test fit with everything including the propane tank on the floor and all hooked up to the burner. I should be okay with the burner side mounted like that right?
  23. Its crude yes and I'll probably kick myself in the butt for using refractory to lock the bricks down but yea. LOL. Anyhow adapt over come and Improvise lol. So I improvised. I also went with a 1 brick set up for the smaller chamber instead that should work a lot better than going with a two brick set up. Either way the bricks are locked in and refractory curing I even got the hole for the burner drilled out. WOW was that ever the easiest drilling I've ever done in my life. Yep I think if I decide to stick with propane I'll build the fire brick forges rather than a steel shell. I like these things. Not only that I did a burner test fit, It actually stops right at the very edge of the inside of the fire brick which makes it extremely nice. So Far so good. Its an ugly looking forge YES but I'm pretty sure it will hold the heat in quite well when I put the doors on.
  24. It will probably be in efficient with one burner but from what I'm hearing from you guys on this burner is that it can handle it. How ever I think I've come up with the design of the forge and it uses all 15 of the the soft fire bricks that I have. It is basically a box the inside length is 15 inches height is 5 inches width is about 5 inches. so 15 by 5 by 5. It's not refractoried in as of yet. Unless you guys can suggest something better and more efficient with these bricks I'm all ears. But this is the design I've come up with using all the bricks with the remaining two used for the doors.
  25. Epoxy all you need is a couple of clamps that are securely tightened. As @Brian Dougherty It is similar to wood glue. I've only used to clamps to clamp down scales during epoxy curing and drying and tightened them just enough to hold the piece tight and that seemed to work just fine for me. I just let it cure for the recommended time on the epoxy package.
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