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Ben Hoover

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  1. So, this was based loosely off the design by Gough Customs, but the constant moving of the toggle bolts drove me bonkers, so I created my own monster. I used Tee Nuts, wing nuts (all 5/16th) threaded 5/16th rod, a heim bolt with a 3/8 bolt and eye, and it adjusts easily without moving from hole to hole, and you can set your angle quickly and easily on it. Great fun, but it took a bit to get it going right. Hope it helps some of y'all. I did record the entire process, but have to get the cord so I can move it to my computer so I can edit and upload it later.
  2. I appreciate the answers. I have decided that I am not going to waste money on a fly press at this time. Will consider other options that will be better suited to my purposes.
  3. Alan, I am in a 'drop cord for da lectric' shop, which is why I was looking into a fly press. I was thinking the #1 would do the trick. Power tools that are going to suck serious electricity (or, really, anything beyond a drop cord) is at current nothing more than a pipe dream.
  4. I searched and couldn't find an answer, so I will have to ask. I know a treadle hammer would be better in some situations, but to be brutally honest with my knees that just isn't an option. I was looking at Pieh Tools and Old World anvil fly presses, contemplating the one or two fly press. I don't do large stock, maybe 1.5 inches at a maximum. Can you advise if the one will do the trick? It's pushing the limit on my budget, but it is something I think will help me out as time goes along. Thanks in advance for any help/advice on this. (I've looked locally for used ones, and they
  5. That thing looked awesome. I really do hope he comes out with a lighter version for those of us with much lighter pockets.
  6. I actually didn't know that. Great info to have. Thank you again Brian!
  7. A friend gave me a bunch of white oak, so I am thinking that will make really good looking and strong handles.
  8. Been at it for a bit, other than a hiatus of a few months now because life gets busy. Practiced on some mild steel the same size and dimensions as the 1080 that I ordered. They may be the same size, but they certainly hammer differently. Dimensions for start are 6 inches long, 1/8 x 1 1/4 wide. Takes some work, but i am pretty pleased with the first attempt at knife steel. Top two knives were the mild steel 'practice' blade forms. The bottom is the knife steel. got a LOT of hand filing and hand sanding to do, but I avoided cold shuts and inclusions. Thanks to yo
  9. Thank you yet again. I shall order some of that within the next week or so and give it a go.
  10. So Joel, (I apologize as I don't know howto make the e with the dots over it), which would you recommend as the best beginner steel? And thanks for the information.
  11. Great and informative post, and all done on a cell phone... you're one miracle away from being nominated for Sainthood, Vern. Only question I simply must ask of the knife gurus on here (yeah, I am considering trying to make one finally)... 1080, 1084 and 80crv10 are supposedly all the same? Or am I being seriously mislead, when using a canola quench? If one of you were teaching and it was the first ever blade... what would you recommend if I may ask?
  12. @Zeb Camper thank you for that. This is the first time I've ever heard to quench between tempering cycles.
  13. On the temperng cycle you mention quenching in water, so I have to ask. Do you mean that you wait for the 'ding' at 400 or whatever temp you are using, then immediately quench it in water, and if so, do you do so after each thermocycle. and why, if you don't mind my asking? Thank you for a great write up
  14. I understand. I was wondering about the 'gotta garden parameter on forged is why I asked. Now I know make kuni mild to prevent breaking.
  15. Would clay help it and just leave the edge hard?
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