Jump to content


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

16 Good

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Mississippi(not quite Hades, but it's walking distance}
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Bladesmithing, Primitive Archery, Primitive Skills, Trapping and Fishing, Art History, Social Anthropolgy, Tool Development, Fire

Recent Profile Visitors

102 profile views
  1. MichaelP

    Had to smile at the claim of this knife company

    At this point in the history of edged tool development it's impossible to come up with a geometric shape/edge geometry that hasn't been done by someone, somewhere, sometime. Even if an idea or design is novel to the "inventor" and conceived without any outside influence, chances are it's already been done. Having said that, the resemblance to the good ole model 14 is uncanny! New materials and machining technology can breath new life into old designs but if I were offering a blade that resembled another well known blade so closely I would call it an homage at the very least. Still, after seeing it I kinda want to own the Dustar Model 1
  2. MichaelP

    Celtic iron.

    Ibor, these are some of your best! You have become expert at forging those raised central ribs on the edge of the anvil. Awesome work.
  3. MichaelP

    Use for brass bullet casings?

    Not as pins! I counter sunk the structural handle pins and then covered them with the base of the shells, like little brass buttons positioned so you can read the stamping on the base of the shells. You could inset the shell bases in any area of the handle as ornamentation independent of the structural pins.
  4. MichaelP

    Use for brass bullet casings?

    When it comes to copper, brass and bronze I look for "low hanging fruit", meaning low cost processing. Brass in the form of spent shell casings is more trouble than it's worth. If you are already set up to do serious casting and you can get thousands of cases for free that's a different story. Most ranges collect brass and sell it to companies or individuals who re-load so finding a steady stream of them at the magic price point (free) may be problematic. I did make a stag handle Bowie for a customer once who was a member of the Single Action Shooters Society. I used a dremel tool to cut the rim and base off of some .45 Long Colt shells and used them to cover the handle pins. Standard woodworking Forstner drills will match the diameter of some calibers of shells so they can be flush mounted into handles. If you can match the caliber to a hunters favorite caliber it might give you a boost on skinning knife sales. I took photos of the Bowie project and added them to my portfolio so when potential customers flip through my work they will see it as an option. You can also inform your hunting clients that they can bring you the spent case from a trophy hunt to be incorporated into a commissioned knife. I have found big game hunters to be quick to reach for their wallets when commemorating the success of a hunt
  5. MichaelP

    Lil' Christmas knife II

    I love bold pattern, low layer count! Most modern "Damascus" is too busy for my taste. I'm in awe of the time and skill that go into those pieces but the lower count is visually more appealing to me, especially on smaller blades.
  6. MichaelP

    Slip Joint Trapper in W2 and Micarta

    Very fine work. Most of the retail knife market has been drowning in "tacticool" for too long. I would love to see more custom makers re visiting the classic pattern pocket knives. If this is an example of your early work with folders I can't wait to see where it goes! Bravo!
  7. MichaelP

    Thought fer the day, / add yours if you like

    "You can get a lot done if you start right now!" my Grandpa
  8. MichaelP


    My favorite videos begin with the narrator saying, "I've never done this before.....now here's how you do it!". Nothing like watching "how to videos" created by novices, or worse I only mentioned using the flatter as a striking tool because I saw someone doing it recently and the poor guy couldn't figure out why his work wasn't coming out smooth as glass. Over time I have conducted experiments with lots of forging techniques including using a flatter, as a struck tool, to clean up and or straighten long blades. My conclusion is that there is no substitute for practice and developing the fine motor skills needed for good hammer control. Also, radiused edges are your friend! I radius my anvil edges to 3/8" and do 99 percent of my forging with rounding hammers. With practice that combination will get you within draw filing range. I didn't think that's what you meant Jeremy. A lot of times my responses are geared more towards whoever happens to come along and read these conversations later. As stated above, I recently witnessed someone who misunderstood the purpose of the flatter. I admit, it was fun to watch for a minute but I'm hoping to prevent as many neophytes as possible from damaging their newly acquired tools!
  9. MichaelP


    Flatters are nice for upsetting the end of stock when struck by a striker with a sledge, not so much for surfacing long sections. Flatters are, or should be, "struck tools". If you use a flatter like a hammer you are pretty much sure to add worse marks to a long, flat section than you will ever get from a slightly radiused hammer face. I use a 3" flatter to mushroom 2" to 2.5" rounds when making stake anvils/hardy tools or Brazeal type rounding hammers but in that operation the flatter is held in place on the work while being struck by a 12lb to 30lb sledge, depending on the strength/hammer control of the striker.
  10. MichaelP

    Forge Press Design Help

    Very slick!!! I've never seen a press and rolling mill take up so little space. I want one!!!
  11. MichaelP

    Spring for post vise.

    Thanks Jeremy and Alan for the clarification, that's a pattern I'm not familiar with.
  12. MichaelP

    Spring for post vise.

    I've seen coils used before but what's more interesting is the square leg. I wonder if everything below the screw box was modified or if that is an original/factory made leg/hinge design.
  13. MichaelP

    Help with anvil ID

    It would be a little easier to rule out Mousehole if I could see under the horn but it is a decent looking anvil. The heel is robust and a little "stubby" which makes me think Wilkinson. There were only a couple of hundred English makers in the second half of the 19th C so you may never know if the marks are truly gone.. If the weight stamp is still there the odds are the makers marks are too, they just don't show up as well without proper cleaning. Do a rebound test and check for de laminations on the faceplate. If everything is solid that old Lady will out live us all. If you get it, don't even put an angle grinder in the same room with it, not even with a wire wheel!!! Start forging hot steel on it and it will clean itself.
  14. MichaelP

    How can I find out where a local Blacksmiths guild is?

    Based on your profile location I did a search and came up with... 1)Northern Rockies Blacksmith Association MT 2)Farriers of Idaho Guild 3)Northwest Blacksmiths Association 4)Western Canadian Blacksmiths Guild 5)Idaho Knifemakers Association 6)Harry Black is a professional smith in Boise with contact info on his website Some of these may involve more driving than you want to do but if you are in Idaho my money would be on contacting Harry Black. He may have more up to date info about local events. Good luck!
  15. MichaelP

    How important is weight to you?

    Destruction testing is your friend if you want to test your heat treat and see what it can take. Modern alloys and heat treat methods allow us to make knives that will withstand WAY MORE ABUSE than any knife EVER should be subjected to! I admit, it is fun to see just how much abuse a robust, "survival" type blade can take. Knives are first and foremost cutting tools, not pry bars, screw drivers, axes etc. I live in a pine forest and in fifty years of being in the woods, hunting, fishing and just generally mucking about, I have never been in a situation where I had to "baton" with my knife in order to build a roaring fire. I have a high level of confidence in the structural integrity of the blades I chose to carry, some of my own making and some made by legends in the knife making community. More than a few made by companies like Case, Ka-Bar, Tops, Pal, Camilus, Ontario etc., and they all have one thing in common....I'm not hitting them with sticks A well made hidden tang is more than strong enough for its' intended purpose.