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  • Gender
  • Location
    Mississippi(not quite Hades, but it's walking distance}
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, Bladesmithing, Primitive Archery, Primitive Skills, Trapping and Fishing, Art History, Social Anthropolgy, Tool Development, Fire

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  1. MichaelP

    Celtic Iron 3

    Great work as always Ibor! I've told you this before but I'm always blown away by those central ribs. I had a go at forging them on the edge of the anvil on a pugio project and it is one of those deceptively simple ideas. Simple in theory, complicated in practice!
  2. MichaelP

    Shalom from the Rebbe

    Welcome Rabbi. Speaking as someone who loves to ponder the unanswerable questions regarding time and eternity, I'm glad to see theology in your Interests column! Hopefully we can talk ancient weaponry too! Welcome to the coolest place on the web.
  3. MichaelP

    A pair of commissions

    The other variable you haven't mentioned is the drill rod. Are you 100% certain it's O-1? Probably a silly question but I couldn't tell from your post if the O-1 blades that did not crack were made from the same drill rod or from your O-1 flat stock. I know it's frustrating but you will figure it out and I hope to see those blades finished soon!
  4. Purple Heart is one of my favorites to work with but those are all good choices.
  5. MichaelP

    Large chopper with micarta

    Everything looks top notch. I really like your color choices on the handle. Did you make the tooling to flare the tube? It's a nice touch.
  6. MichaelP

    Father and sons

    Thank you for the information, again, well done. They should be proud to take those to the forest!
  7. MichaelP

    Father and sons

    Very nice. What is the blade steel?
  8. MichaelP

    Just a Rant

    In my case I wasn't talking about putting my mark on something I didn't make. I get asked to make reproductions, aka fakes, of Civil War artifacts. My refusal to make them without adding my mark and a production date really irritates the potential clients who claim they only want an authentic repro. In my opinion, the only reason they are turned off by a makers mark on an otherwise well done facsimile is because they plan to pass it off as authentic for an absurd amount of money.
  9. MichaelP

    Best way to flatten a knife?

    What Alan said! There is no better, easier or faster way to forge closer to final shape than practice. If you don't have a hi power 2x72 that's all the more reason to hone your hammer skills. I mention this because most often when I hear this question it's because someone isn't happy with their metal hogging equipment. If on the other hand you have the best grinders and want to speed up production you may be ready to build a rolling mill. Hot rolling is a form of forging, usually at the level of heavy industry, but I have seen some really slick ones built from industrial parts for use in a smithy. A rolling mill wont give you a bevel but it will bring the stock down to uniform thickness suitable for grinding to shape, or final hand forging of tangs and bevels etc. For most people the best fix is simply dressing their hammer face and practice.
  10. MichaelP

    Just a Rant

    Maybe it's because I live in the south and we have lots of American Civil War shows here where private collectors buy sell and trade artifacts. I get asked at least once every six months to make a repro of a D-guard Bowie complete with original markings. Go figure. I always tell them a price for the piece and add that my touch mark and date will be proudly displayed and none of them has ever wanted to move forward. I occasionally get a knife brought to me without a handle but with a story about being passed down for a hundred or so generations. After cleaning up around the ricaso there will inevitably be a stamp that says "Pakistan".
  11. MichaelP

    Anyone use a 6" x 48" belt sander?

    You can't buy one made anywhere near that well these days! I would clear a dedicated space for it and put it to work. Even if it sits idle a lot of the time you will eventually see a need for it and if it's gone you wont be able to replace it easily without searching for another older Powermatic or even a vintage 1960s Craftsman. The new stuff isn't even close.
  12. MichaelP

    Steeled Edge Wrought

    Thanks Zeb! I need advice on pretty much everything with this build! It's not meant to be historically accurate but if several things I've never done before go well my next piece will be a long tang, short broad seax. This little blade is 15cm and I'm planning to make the handle 10cm to 13cm. What I'm wondering about is whether or not to put a pommel with a peen block on it or just do a hidden tang. I made a couple of small chisels today and I'm going to do some practice carving on poplar because I have a bunch. I'll be checking with one of my knife maker friends to see what woods he has on hand but I may end up sending off for maple.
  13. MichaelP

    Hunting, post your game.

    That's heavy! Every state has different regulations on poundage but everywhere I've checked so far is ok with 45lbs for whitetail. 45lbs will certainly bring them down with sharp blades.
  14. MichaelP

    Best frontiersman steel?

    I don't know about Nietzsche but I've heard it said that when the ships were made of wood the sailors were made of iron. Once the iron ships came around the sailors became wooden.
  15. MichaelP

    Steeled Edge Wrought

    Thanks Brian! I would be scared to try it now on something I had 50 or so hours in but I started out with this one wanting to try some things I haven't done before. I'm pretty happy with the blade but I may end up cursing before I'm done with the handle. Tomorrow I plan to forge and grind some simple wood carving tools and start some test carving in preparation for the handle.