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Glenn Larsen

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ward Arkansas
  • Interests
    Cast bullets, reloading, hunting, just started making knives

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  1. Sounds like a great idea, thanks much
  2. Most Everything that I've read on it is positive. The only negative is some people are getting a thick decarb zone. So ill just have to plan on it cleaning up thinner. I ordered 3 4' sticks of various thickness and width from NJSB
  3. Thanks for the suggestions. Yes, im just doing stock removal for now. What are the advantages of 80CrV2? Will 80CrV2 hold up to being flexed? I want to make a knife for my son that's in Idaho. He loves to hunt Elk, so I need a steel that will stay sharp and put up with some abuse. Be able to split a brisket and still be able to skin and debone without having to be touched up constantly. ..
  4. Hi everybody, does anyone know of a place that sells 5160 thinner than 1/4". It seems that almost every place I check has 1/4" as the thinnest. I did find one place that had it at 13/64" .203", but you had to buy the whole 20' stick. I'd like to find some 1/8" or 3/16" if possible. Thanks
  5. I made another one for a knife that I made for my buddy Wayne. I had a hard time with the orange with getting it too hot and it shriveled up, or not hot enough to get a good tight fit for the knife.
  6. I built a Kydex press yesterday and gave it my first try at making a sheath today. I got the Kydex from Jantz, but got the eyelet tool from Knifekits.com It's kind of ugly, but I know where to pay more attention on the next one.
  7. To get the fine detail fill out of your mold, you might try pre heating the mold. I do a lot of cast bullet stuff mostly casting with wheel weights + 2% tin. The extra tin helps the alloy to fill out and give nice crisp lines. Also to get a good fill out of the base, be sure to keep a big hot puddle in the sprue. When the alloy starts to cool, it will shrink some and if your sprue is liquid, it will pull from there to fill out the base. Any pics of your molds and figurines?
  8. Well, I finally got a break from the weather and life and got the blade softened yesterday. I used a new cobalt bit and some Brownell's Do-Drill and got all three holes drilled without any problems. I've got the scales roughed out and I'm working on getting the blade ground most of the way down and almost ready to heat treat.
  9. Thanks for all of the suggestions. I have not hardened the blade yet, and yes I bought it new either from Jantz or new jersey steel Barron. I used a cutoff disc on the small grinder to remove the big spots, then a bench grinder to get a rough profile, and finally the 4x36 belt sander with 40 and 80 grit belt to get it to where it is. Also some sanding drums for the tighter spots.
  10. Hi guys, I started on a new knife and have it shaped fairly well and went to drill the holes for the pins and ran into some problems. The blade is new 1/4" x 2" 5160 and has just been stock removal. I drilled a 1/8" pilot hole without any problem in 3 spots with a drill press, but when I went for a 1/4" hole, it got part way through and then just started squealing. I was useing TIN coated drill bits with some oil. I went to HomeDepot and got a couple of Cobalt bits, but they wouldn't do anything. I'm guessing that I hardened it going through with the 1/8" holes. Would tempering the blade make it soft enough to finish drilling the holes? Could I just put it in the oven overnight, or go for three one hour tempers at 400F? I tried using the search, but found everybody saying something different... TIA Glenn.
  11. It is Simwool Rigidizer. I guess I should have read the bottle, it says to dip, brush or spray.
  12. Thank you for the kind words and suggestions. I think I've got bitten by the blade bug. I've got the urge to start something new I just got some rigidizer in yesterday for the insulation. Do I just paint it on with a brush, or can I put it in a spray bottle and spray it on?
  13. Hello, I am absolutely new here and first post. The boys and I were talking about wanting to make some knives, so wife got me a propane fired forge for father's day. The only thing I had to start with some was some mystery metal round bar that the wife brought home one day, so I chopped a piece off and started hammering and filing. I made the handles out of a cedar tree stump that we cut down in the spring. I tried to heat treat the blade, but it's probably just some low carbon steel, so it can be a letter opener. It's ugly and I made a bunch of mistakes, but I learned along the way. I ordered up an assortment of 5160, 52100, 1080 and 1084 to play with. I went with the 52100 and stock removal for the second one. the handles are Black micarta. The wife's birthday was coming up, so I thought I'd try to make a pairing knife out of a piece of the 52100. I used water buffalo horn for the handle on it. Her birthday is a little way off, but I couldn't wait and gave it to her early. My buddy Wayne saw the pairing knife and mentioned that he could use a new hunting knife that was just a little bigger, so... The blade was my last piece of 52100. I ordered some black and orange G10 for the handles. Wayne is a Vet, so I got some pins for the handle that look like dog feet. I thought they were lined up when I set it down for the glue to cure. I'll pay closer attention next time. This one is scary sharp and shaves very easily.
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